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JMAN's Home Theater and Basement Build-out - Page 2

post #31 of 89
Thread Starter 
Here are some updated pics of the walls that are up and some of the soffits.
1/2 Bath
Full Bath
Bar Top / Theater Seating Area
Screen Wall
post #32 of 89
Nice work! Thanks for the update!
post #33 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by davboy View Post

Nice work! Thanks for the update!

My contractor is doing an awesome job with the framing. Things are on pace to be a week ahead of schedule. I'm planning to do the electrical and insulation next weekend instead of the 23rd like what was originally estimated. This means that on the 23rd I might be able to start building the stage and riser. I've been researching some info on the site about building these and wanted to make sure I have the basics:

30lb roofing felt between concrete floor and framing for stage and riser
space framing supports 12"-16"(?) apart (should I leave the outer boards of the frame 1/4" from the wall? or just attach the perimeter to the wall studs?)
insulation in riser
fill stage cavities with plastic and then sand
3/4" OSB for platforms (2nd layer of 3/4" OSB w/ green glue on stage since my sub will be directly on top of the stage?)
roofing felt or green glue between framing and platform too ?
1-1/2 - 2" overhang of platform and round the edges


Is there anything I've missed or have wrong?
post #34 of 89
Thread Starter 
Picked up my XV15 from FedEx today. This thing is a beast! It completely dwarfs my 10" Paradigm sub as you can tell by the last photo. Haven't had a chance to hook it up yet, I hope it doesn't bring down the walls when I crank it up.



post #35 of 89
Wow, that thing is high! How does it sound?
post #36 of 89
Build is coming along nicely. Good pic no the sub, it should do well in the room!!!
post #37 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by THEJMAN311 View Post

space framing supports 12"-16"(?) apart (should I leave the outer boards of the frame 1/4" from the wall? or just attach the perimeter to the wall studs?)
3/4" OSB for platforms (2nd layer of 3/4" OSB w/ green glue on stage since my sub will be directly on top of the stage?)
roofing felt or green glue between framing and platform too ?

How close together you space the joists depends on the distance they span, the size of the lumber you're using and the expected load. A 16" spacing ought to work fine unless the joists are spanning a long distance (or you expect a lot of really, really heavy friends on the riser). For that matter, some people like a little flex in the riser on the theory that it adds to the tactile experience of a soundtrack.

Since your sub is going to sit on the stage, the perimeter frame of the stage should not be fastened to the walls. Otherwise, the sub's vibrations could work their way through the stage and into the wall framing. Leave a little gap between the stage and the walls.

A second layer of OSB with GG on the stage is probably a good idea. I don't know of any reason to do it on the riser, though.

I believe some folks use roofing felt between the framing and the OSB decking in order to prevent wood-on-wood squeaks. Personally, I would rather prevent squeaks by fastening the OSB securely using construction adhesive and screws.
post #38 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by davboy View Post

Wow, that thing is high! How does it sound?

I still haven't even had a chance to hook it up and test it out frown.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotikr1 View Post

Build is coming along nicely. Good pic no the sub, it should do well in the room!!!

Thanks! I'm really happy with how quick things are going.

Ready to build a riser and stage next week? smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp View Post

How close together you space the joists depends on the distance they span, the size of the lumber you're using and the expected load. A 16" spacing ought to work fine unless the joists are spanning a long distance (or you expect a lot of really, really heavy friends on the riser). For that matter, some people like a little flex in the riser on the theory that it adds to the tactile experience of a soundtrack.

Since your sub is going to sit on the stage, the perimeter frame of the stage should not be fastened to the walls. Otherwise, the sub's vibrations could work their way through the stage and into the wall framing. Leave a little gap between the stage and the walls.

A second layer of OSB with GG on the stage is probably a good idea. I don't know of any reason to do it on the riser, though.

I believe some folks use roofing felt between the framing and the OSB decking in order to prevent wood-on-wood squeaks. Personally, I would rather prevent squeaks by fastening the OSB securely using construction adhesive and screws.

Thanks so much for the feedback on this dwightp, it helped answered alot of the things I was still unsure of. The stage will probably be the whole length of the room, so about 13'8". Since I gained some extra space on the right side of the screen I thought it might be cool to make the stage a bit shorter than the wall and putting a media shelf up against that side of wall shared with the 1/2 bath.
post #39 of 89
Thread Starter 
Some new pics

The duct that was mounted under the joists in the theater area has been relocated
HVAC relocated from under joists

Plumbing for the main bath
New Plumbing for Full Bath

New 100A SubPanel is in place and the bundle of low voltage cable has been rerouted through the soffit's back into the area under the stairs.
New SubPanel Installed
post #40 of 89
Thread Starter 
LOTS OF UPDATES!!!!!!

Had a very busy 3 day weekend getting the electrical and low voltage all run. Luckily I had some friends willing to help me get it all done.





I went a bit overboard with the circuits for the basement. I figured with a 100 Amp panel and 20 spaces I might as well go all out.

20 Amp for bathrooms
20 Amp for rear seating
20 Amp for front seating
20 Amp x 2 for equipment room under the stairs

15 Amp for subs and a few outlets at the front of the theater
15 Amp for theater lighting (1 switch for sconces and 1 switch for cans)
15 Amp for wine cooler
15 Amp for fridge
15 Amp for dishwasher
15 Amp bar area outlets
15 Amp for bedroom 1 lighting and outlets
15 Amp for bedroom 2 lighting and outlets
15 Amp breaker for hallway and family room lights and hallway outlets

Insulation went in yesterday





Drywall started getting hung today, they are supposed to be done tomorrow and then mudding/taping will start on Friday



post #41 of 89
Thread Starter 
Need some input on my riser and stage. Here is what I came up with, need some suggestions on how they could be improved and which stage build plan would be best.


post #42 of 89
What is the OSB between the 1st and 2nd level for?
post #43 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

What is the OSB between the 1st and 2nd level for?

It's the top layer for the first step

post #44 of 89
Is the difference between the two plans running the OSB for the first level under the the second level in one vs using a 2x8 to build the second level?
post #45 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Is the difference between the two plans running the OSB for the first level under the the second level in one vs using a 2x8 to build the second level?

Yep, that's the only difference. I wasn't sure if it would be better to use 1 set of 2x8's to frame out the upper level. This would cause me to have to make cuts on both sides of the first step level to get it to run up to the curved 2nd level. However, If I just build the first level with 2x4 the whole span of the stage then I just have cuts to make on 1 side of that level. Then I can build the 2nd level with 2x4 directly on top of the first. The second way with 2x4's seems to be the easier path since it would only require 2 sets of cuts for curves.
post #46 of 89
For some reason I'm not a big fan of having the OSB dividing the 2nd level like that. You're planning to fill the stage with sand, correct?

Without thinking about it too much, my first thought would be to build a 2x8 box for the 2nd level. Then attach my 2xs for the 1st level, and depending on how far out the curve is I would either build another box, or cut the 2xs to accommodate the curve. Add the blocking, then the decking. On top of that I would add the blocking for the curve for the 2nd level. You can either rip the 2x4s that make up the curve on the 2nd level down 1/2" or you can add another layer of 1/2" ply on the 2x8 box to make up the height difference. I'd probably rip the 2x4's on the 'ol table saw as it would be pretty quick (3.5 + .75 + 3 = 7.25).

There are lots of ways to do it, it's just what's easiest for you.
post #47 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

For some reason I'm not a big fan of having the OSB dividing the 2nd level like that. You're planning to fill the stage with sand, correct?

Without thinking about it too much, my first thought would be to build a 2x8 box for the 2nd level. Then attach my 2xs for the 1st level, and depending on how far out the curve is I would either build another box, or cut the 2xs to accommodate the curve. Add the blocking, then the decking. On top of that I would add the blocking for the curve for the 2nd level. You can either rip the 2x4s that make up the curve on the 2nd level down 1/2" or you can add another layer of 1/2" ply on the 2x8 box to make up the height difference. I'd probably rip the 2x4's on the 'ol table saw as it would be pretty quick (3.5 + .75 + 3 = 7.25).

There are lots of ways to do it, it's just what's easiest for you.

Yeah, I plan to fill it with sand, so I guess it would make the most sense to use the 2x8's to build out the 2nd level, then build the first level with 2x4's up to the 2nd. Do you know what type of plastic material people use to hold the sand between each support? Would some thick painters plastic sheeting work good? When roofing felt is used between the concrete and lumber, is the felt just glued directly to the concrete with construction adhesive and then the lumber gets glued down to the felt? With Liquid Nails or something to that effect?
Edited by THEJMAN311 - 2/21/13 at 8:21pm
post #48 of 89
Is the Roxul AFB better than Roxul Safe n Sound? The only place I've found to carry that is Lowes, but now I'm intruiged by the AFB. Where did you order from?

Did you double up the batts in the ceiling, or just put one?

Btw, nice progress!
Edited by tcramer - 2/27/13 at 12:20pm
post #49 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcramer View Post

Is the Roxul AFB better than Roxul Safe n Sound? The only place I've found to carry that is Lowes, but now I'm intruiged by the AFB. Where did you order from?

Did you double up the batts in the ceiling, or just put one?

Btw, nice progress!

The Roxul AFB is just the commercial version of the Safe n Sound. It's the exact same stuff. My contractor purchased it through one of his dealers. If you are getting it yourself you'd probably only be able to get the residential version labeled as Safe n Sound. You can check the stats for both on Roxul's website under their respective category.

We just used a single layer of the 3" batts. Luckily we had enough so that we got the interior theater wall and bathroom walls insulated with it as well as the ceiling.
post #50 of 89
Thread Starter 
Guess what's getting built tomorrow.....

post #51 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by THEJMAN311 View Post

Guess what's getting built tomorrow.....


Looks like a big sandbox for the kids! Make sure the sand is good and dry.
post #52 of 89
JMAN, I was just looking at what you had for your breakers/electrical. After finishing my theater one thing I really regret not doing was pulling two 20amps circuits just for my subs. Its not a bad idea to have a 15amp circuit for your projector and have all of your lighting on its own circuit. I think having each row of chairs on their own 20amp circuit is total over kill and unless you're having some crazy steam shower in your bathroom you wouldn't need a 20amp circuit in the bathroom either. You could cut all of those 15amp circuits in half. And you could surge protect your whole panel too.

It's not a bad thing to have over kill for circuits but it would probably be better to have those circuits where they would be needed if you did equipment upgrades down the road ie. super powerful subs or amps that would draw lots of current.
Edited by jbrown15 - 2/28/13 at 1:14am
post #53 of 89
Each bathroom is required to have 20a dedicated to the bathroom receptacle. You should also check and see if AFCI is required for your bedroom circuits.

More sand. biggrin.gif


Tim
post #54 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

More sand. biggrin.gif
Yeah...for some reason that doesn't look like enough to me. rolleyes.gif You should double it...yeah, that's the ticket...(still tired from my 60 bags a few months ago...)tongue.gif
post #55 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by warrenP View Post

Looks like a big sandbox for the kids! Make sure the sand is good and dry.

Yep, it's plenty dry, it's been away from the snow and all the humidity in my house from the drywall taping, mudding, and texturing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

JMAN, I was just looking at what you had for your breakers/electrical. After finishing my theater one thing I really regret not doing was pulling two 20amps circuits just for my subs. Its not a bad idea to have a 15amp circuit for your projector and have all of your lighting on its own circuit. I think having each row of chairs on their own 20amp circuit is total over kill and unless you're having some crazy steam shower in your bathroom you wouldn't need a 20amp circuit in the bathroom either. You could cut all of those 15amp circuits in half. And you could surge protect your whole panel too.

It's not a bad thing to have over kill for circuits but it would probably be better to have those circuits where they would be needed if you did equipment upgrades down the road ie. super powerful subs or amps that would draw lots of current.

I did some google searches for power recliner motors and found that some can draw as much as 4amps. Since i'll have 5 chairs in the back row and 4 in the front I wanted to make sure to be covered. My panel came with five 20amp breakers anyway. I read the specs on my XV15 and it shows 6.3Amp with autoswitching, since I'll have 2 at the most I figured that 15Amp should be enough for both of them. I have some panamax surge protectors to put into the wall outlets for each sub. As Mr. Tim stated it's code in my area to have a dedicated 20A for bathrooms. I do agree about future proofing for larger subs might have been a better plan though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Each bathroom is required to have 20a dedicated to the bathroom receptacle. You should also check and see if AFCI is required for your bedroom circuits.

More sand. biggrin.gif


Tim

I've heard nothing but bad things about Arc-Fault breakers from electricians in my area. Most of them will install AFCI breakers for inspection and then the homeowners will request they get switched out with breakers that work 100% of the time.

no more sand!!!!! lol, I think that 50ish bags will be enough for me to get down into the basement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

Yeah...for some reason that doesn't look like enough to me. rolleyes.gif You should double it...yeah, that's the ticket...(still tired from my 60 bags a few months ago...)tongue.gif

I'll gladly double it if you're delivering them! hahaha
Edited by THEJMAN311 - 2/28/13 at 8:26am
post #56 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by THEJMAN311 View Post

Yep, it's plenty dry, it's been away from the snow and all the humidity in my house from the drywall taping, mudding, and texturing.
I did some google searches for power recliner motors and found that some can draw as much as 4amps. Since i'll have 5 chairs in the back row and 4 in the front I wanted to make sure to be covered. My panel came with five 20amp breakers anyway. I read the specs on my XV15 and it shows 6.3Amp with autoswitching, since I'll have 2 at the most I figured that 15Amp should be enough for both of them. I have some panamax surge protectors to put into the wall outlets for each sub. As Mr. Tim stated it's code in my area to have a dedicated 20A for bathrooms. I do agree about future proofing for larger subs might have been a better plan though.
I've heard nothing but bad things about Arc-Fault breakers from electricians in my area. Most of them will install AFCI breakers for inspection and then the homeowners will request they get switched out with breakers that work 100% of the time.

no more sand!!!!! lol, I think that 50ish bags will be enough for me to get down into the basement.
I'll gladly double it if you're delivering them! hahaha

Yeah that makes sense if code in your area calls for a 20amp service in the bathroom. My house was built in 2005 and in my area only a 15amp is required.
I have 6 powered seats and they are all on the same circuit and I've never tripped a breaker.
Like I said my biggest regret was not pulling a 20amp circuit it each sub location. Great sub you have, I have dual XS30s.

Keep the pictures coming of the progress, it looks great by the way!
post #57 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by THEJMAN311 View Post


I've heard nothing but bad things about Arc-Fault breakers from electricians in my area. Most of them will install AFCI breakers for inspection and then the homeowners will request they get switched out with breakers that work 100% of the time.

no more sand!!!!! lol, I think that 50ish bags will be enough for me to get down into the basement.
I'll gladly double it if you're delivering them! hahaha

AFCI was pretty bad when they first came out. Unfortunately the bad rep has followed them, but the technology has come a long way.

I have had AFCIs in my house for a few years now, and the only time they ever trip is with my Porter Cable router. I run my chop saw, recip saw, tables saw etc.. never have a problem.

That's not to say I am a proponent of requiring them.. I think it's a lot of expense for very little return... but if they are required don't let the stigma of false trips prevent you from installing them.

I may be corrected, but I believe there is a 75 bag minimum to join the club. Carrying 10 bags back up the stairs counts as 15 bags, if that helps.

Tim
post #58 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

Yeah that makes sense if code in your area calls for a 20amp service in the bathroom. My house was built in 2005 and in my area only a 15amp is required.
I have 6 powered seats and they are all on the same circuit and I've never tripped a breaker.
Like I said my biggest regret was not pulling a 20amp circuit it each sub location. Great sub you have, I have dual XS30s.

Keep the pictures coming of the progress, it looks great by the way!

Thanks!

I'm jealous of your dual XS30s, wish I could have swung that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

AFCI was pretty bad when they first came out. Unfortunately the bad rep has followed them, but the technology has come a long way.

I have had AFCIs in my house for a few years now, and the only time they ever trip is with my Porter Cable router. I run my chop saw, recip saw, tables saw etc.. never have a problem.

That's not to say I am a proponent of requiring them.. I think it's a lot of expense for very little return... but if they are required don't let the stigma of false trips prevent you from installing them.

I may be corrected, but I believe there is a 75 bag minimum to join the club. Carrying 10 bags back up the stairs counts as 15 bags, if that helps.

Tim

Good to know things are getting better with AFCI

As far as joining the club, guess I'm not even close frown.gif The bags got slid down some 2x10's through the basement window, AND......it only took 48 bags instead of 52....

STAGE BUILDOUT
It's 2x8's with alternating cuts for both levels







RISER BUILDOUT
2x10's that will have a full 6" blocking below them so it will be 16" finished height w/ the 3/4" OSB on top. Funny thing about the step that it needs, I originally planned it to be on the left side since there was extra space that direction, but a step over there would be right under the soffit for plumbing, so anyone over like 5'6" would bump their head stepping up to the top of the riser. Gonna have to move the step to the other side, oh well.


Edited by THEJMAN311 - 2/28/13 at 10:13pm
post #59 of 89
Have you purchased your LCR speakers for your room yet?
post #60 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

Have you purchased your LCR speakers for your room yet?

I haven't yet. My buddy has been having a heck of a time trying to get a hold of the DefTech rep for our region so that he can become a dealer for them. But.......he might be getting hooked up with Triad today! So it looks like I may end up with some Triad In-Walls instead, which from what I've read on this site, the Triads are a few steps above the DefTechs, so I'm pretty excited about that. Hoping to get some Silver/4 LCR's, might even be able to swing 3 of the Gold//6 LCR's, they should be able to fit in the walls since my floating walls were built up against an existing insulation wrap.
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