I'll be buying a Sony VPL-HW50ES soon. Sorry if this has been posted before, but I'd like to see what post-calibration settings people are using on their Sony VPL-HW50ES projectors, and it hasn't been an easy search. I thought people could benefit from seeing what others are using for settings all on one spot. Please post your Sony VPL-HW50ES settings.
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Sony VPL-HW50ES settings
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post #2 of 8
1/25/13 at 12:09pm
- Seegs108
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Projectors aren't like TV's. There are so many factors that are involved including unit variances, screen color, screen material, screen gain, wall colors, carpet/floor color, bulb life, ect. Sharing settings and using others will not get you closer to a more accurate picture. Each projector is calibrated differently at the factory. Either use the default settings (which are fairly close to accurate out of the box on these units) or buy a colorimeter and do calibration your self. It fairly easy to learn. Check out this thread if you're looking into getting a more accurate picture:
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
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1/25/13 at 8:55pm
- Seegs108
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A starting point to what? Like I said, the factory settings are pretty close as it is on these units. They will provide a better starting point than any other users settings on here. Getting something closer to D65 using someone else's settings would be pure luck. If you posted what your current room and screen are and someone who had a very similar setup to yours would be the only helpful thing. When I say similar I mean same throw distance, same screen size and same exact screen material, same color walls, same color floors/carpet and roughly the same amount of hours on the bulb. All of those things add a specific color or add an extra (or smaller) amount of light to the screen. Only if the persons setup was VERY similar to that then he could tell you their settings. And the machines would've had to be calibrated very close to each other at the factory to yield great results. The chance of all of this happening are very slim which is why it's best to stick to the factory settings. Using someone else's settings will most likely give you worse results then when you started. Like I said in my previous post; projectors are not like TV's in the slightest.
I'm not trying to be rude. I'm trying to convince you that you're basically wasting your time doing this. If you go through this subforum you'll see there are VERY few threads about calibration and there's a reason why. That reason is what I've just told you. The threads that are on here about calibration mostly talk about the method of calibrating a specific unit. Typically each manufacturer has their own CMS and they each work differently and thus some threads are created to talk about how to access, navigate, point out flaws in the system, and how use them to their fullest. You'll see a lot more people posting charts with their results as opposed to numbers to put into those CMS's because, like I said, each setup has a crap ton of variables that will alter the image and therefore no two CMS settings will give you the same result.
If you aren't going to buy a cheap sensor and try and calibrate yourself what I would do is just go by your eyes and make alterations that look better and better until you're satisfied with the results.
Edited by Seegs108 - 1/25/13 at 9:16pm
post #5 of 8
1/25/13 at 9:09pm
- zombie10k
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The out of the box settings generally look good, but I've seen some variances in D65 calibration.The last one I calibrated had blue off by quite a bit and needed to be fixed.
The HW50 Gamma tracks very close to 2.2 if you set the menu @ 2.2. Start with this gamma setting and see how you like the PQ.
Also consider turning down the reality creation setting to ~10 or lower (factory is 20). It's set to 50 in 3D and I usually turn it down to ~25.
Thanks for the settings suggestions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k 
The out of the box settings generally look good, but I've seen some variances in D65 calibration.The last one I calibrated had blue off by quite a bit and needed to be fixed.
The HW50 Gamma tracks very close to 2.2 if you set the menu @ 2.2. Start with this gamma setting and see how you like the PQ.
Also consider turning down the reality creation setting to ~10 or lower (factory is 20). It's set to 50 in 3D and I usually turn it down to ~25.

The out of the box settings generally look good, but I've seen some variances in D65 calibration.The last one I calibrated had blue off by quite a bit and needed to be fixed.
The HW50 Gamma tracks very close to 2.2 if you set the menu @ 2.2. Start with this gamma setting and see how you like the PQ.
Also consider turning down the reality creation setting to ~10 or lower (factory is 20). It's set to 50 in 3D and I usually turn it down to ~25.
post #7 of 8
1/30/13 at 7:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k 
The out of the box settings generally look good, but I've seen some variances in D65 calibration.The last one I calibrated had blue off by quite a bit and needed to be fixed.
The HW50 Gamma tracks very close to 2.2 if you set the menu @ 2.2. Start with this gamma setting and see how you like the PQ.
Also consider turning down the reality creation setting to ~10 or lower (factory is 20). It's set to 50 in 3D and I usually turn it down to ~25.

The out of the box settings generally look good, but I've seen some variances in D65 calibration.The last one I calibrated had blue off by quite a bit and needed to be fixed.
The HW50 Gamma tracks very close to 2.2 if you set the menu @ 2.2. Start with this gamma setting and see how you like the PQ.
Also consider turning down the reality creation setting to ~10 or lower (factory is 20). It's set to 50 in 3D and I usually turn it down to ~25.
what about the contrast enhancer? do you leave it on (H/M/L) or off?
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1/30/13 at 8:52am
- wes k
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