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Samsung DLP - Turning off in spite of new lamp, & color wheel

post #1 of 15
1/25/13 at 8:44pm
Thread Starter 
Problem: Samsung DLP turns off after a few minutes and three flashing lights then occur.
Steps I have already done:
(1) New color wheel was replaced yesterday - Samsung tv was whining and getting louder, although the picture was still very good. I also replaced the larger fan since it was making some noise also.
(2) The lamp was replaced today - Old Samsung lamp had 27,000+hours on it (really). The back case is all attached so the kill switch is properly seated (that little blue arm in the back).
(3) Upon resetting the lamp hours to zero via the remote, the tv started cycling on/off for about 6-7 times.
(4) I read on the AVS forum while this was happening to unplug the tv and wait for about 5 minutes, then plug it back in and hit the power on the tv, not the remote. The audio came on then, but no picture, and now the three flashing lights are blinking (timer, lamp, temp) and then the tv would eventually power off. That being said, it made me believe there was a lamp issue - but it is brand new today.
(5) AVS forum then suggested to re-seat the lamp - I did that and the picture came up, but only for about 1 min and then it powered off and the three flashing lights are back on.
HELP NEEDED Please: I have it now unplugged and am baffled at what to do next. I dread calling a "Samsung certified repairman" given it will probably cost hundreds that I don't have. I really love this tv and would appreciate your help in extending this tv via "AVS CPR" for another few years until I finish grad school.
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post #2 of 15
1/26/13 at 7:08am
Did your old lamp still work or did you replace it because it blew? If it worked, try it in there and see what happens.
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post #3 of 15
1/26/13 at 8:29am
it also could be a weak ballast.ours acted like that after replacing the bulb and that was the issue.just a thought
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post #4 of 15
1/26/13 at 9:06am
Thread Starter 
After replacing the color wheel, the symptom was that tv would turn off after a few minutes. The old lamp had more than 27,000 hours on it and it was advised to replace it based on AVS threads and a technician.
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post #5 of 15
1/26/13 at 9:08am
Thread Starter 
Is that "ballast" issue with your tv an item that you replaced or you had to have a Samsung tv repair expert to do?
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post #6 of 15
1/26/13 at 1:15pm
The ballast can be replaced fairly easily, follow the wires from the lamp - the other end is the ballast smile.gif

If it didn't do it before the color wheel, then I'd go back and redo all of the connections that you touched when you did the color wheel. Could be the rpm sensor on the color wheel also.
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post #7 of 15
1/26/13 at 4:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PixelPretty View Post

Problem: Samsung DLP turns off after a few minutes and three flashing lights then occur.
Steps I have already done:
(1) New color wheel was replaced yesterday - Samsung tv was whining and getting louder, although the picture was still very good. I also replaced the larger fan since it was making some noise also.
(2) The lamp was replaced today - Old Samsung lamp had 27,000+hours on it (really). The back case is all attached so the kill switch is properly seated (that little blue arm in the back).
(3) Upon resetting the lamp hours to zero via the remote, the tv started cycling on/off for about 6-7 times.
(4) I read on the AVS forum while this was happening to unplug the tv and wait for about 5 minutes, then plug it back in and hit the power on the tv, not the remote. The audio came on then, but no picture, and now the three flashing lights are blinking (timer, lamp, temp) and then the tv would eventually power off. That being said, it made me believe there was a lamp issue - but it is brand new today.
(5) AVS forum then suggested to re-seat the lamp - I did that and the picture came up, but only for about 1 min and then it powered off and the three flashing lights are back on.
HELP NEEDED Please: I have it now unplugged and am baffled at what to do next. I dread calling a "Samsung certified repairman" given it will probably cost hundreds that I don't have. I really love this tv and would appreciate your help in extending this tv via "AVS CPR" for another few years until I finish grad school.

Please provide the complete model number of the tv. Are the three lights flashing synchronized or alternating in some kind of pattern?

You said 'lamp was replaced today', did you do that yourself? Where did you get the lamp, and/or what did it cost, and/or what manufacturers' name was on it?

There are many sellers offering Chinese knock-off lamps on ebay and other sites for $38-40. They have a high out-of-box failure rate, or are just flaky. When they work they rarely last more than six months. Stick with Philips or Osram lamps.

The suggestion to put the old lamp in and see what happens is a good plan.
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post #8 of 15
1/27/13 at 10:00am
Thread Starter 
The model of my Samsung DLP is HLN507W1X/XAA.

To answer your other questions Chuck: The color wheel was replaced by a TV technician first, but the "turning off the tv picture" symptoms occurred after that was replaced. I then replaced the lamp ordered via Amazon for $35 and it was a Philips (I agree with your comment). My existing lamp had >27,000 hours on it so I will probably need a new lamp this year anyway. I did put the old lamp in and it repeated the same new symptom - the picture was ok, and then it eventually turned off and the three lights flashed.

To update now: Last night I turned the tv completely around and took the back off, taped down the blue kill switch to watch and see what happens. I re-checked all the connections as suggested by pacofortacos. I used my multimeter to ck the ballast (suggested by knobby) and thankfully that was ok (but I know how to replace that in the future). Well, after 5 min, the picture went out, but I noticed just prior to that the color wheel stopped spinning. With that being said, I now think that the color wheel is defective (the new one). I just called the tv technician today to tell him that and he is ordering a new color wheel. I read on avs and samsung sites that if the color wheel rpms drop too low the lamp will turn off, and shut off the tv. I will let everyone know how this turns out over the next few days. Thanks for the great advice!!smile.gif
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post #9 of 15
1/27/13 at 7:04pm
Thread Starter 
Does anyone know how to tell if the TV technician has calibrated the color wheel? and is that important to do? I have read conflicting opinions on this on other sites.
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post #10 of 15
1/27/13 at 8:51pm
If it is off you will see it in the picture - the colors will be off. That will not cause the shutdown though.

Did the color wheel come as just the wheel or wheel and rpm sensor?
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post #11 of 15
1/27/13 at 9:03pm
Thread Starter 
The color wheel came with the wheel and the sensor.
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post #12 of 15
4/30/13 at 12:28am
SAMSUNG DLP SOLUTION. I fix a similar model to Samsung HLS4666w model. Chasis number bp41-00278a as printed on pc board. I added capacitors to each of the three dc to dc converters on the main board. You can download the data sheet for ic212 (MP1583dn). Main board is where all the external connections are made from outside). Remove the metal cover which covers one third of the main PC board. To test this fix, only one of the dc to dc converter needs a capacitor. Location IC 212 is the dc to dc converter of major interest and will fix all problems. Add a capacitor on top of capacitor presently located at location c217 as printed on the pc board. Do not remove any old capacitors at these locations. Be careful with polarity of capacitors. Do not place this capacitor on the ic pins of MP1583dn. The voltage at location c217 should be STB 3.3 volt. You could also place the capacitor at location BD212 (+3.3) and ground, instead of on top of capacitor, if you need more clearance. BD214 and ground for converter ic 213 or on top of capacitor C236. At capacitor C212 for ic211 or at BD210 to ground. The value should be 33 uf or more, anything less will have limited fix. I would not pass 60 uf. I place a 33 uf capacitor with a working voltage of 35. This fix not only work for popping noises from speaker, but it also improve the colors. Solder with caution, leave no speck of solder behind. good luck. search the web for free service manual. Just solder the wires together of that back switch. unscrew the switch and solder. Just solder the wires on that hatch door switch together.

UPDATE. THE STATIC SOUND HAS RETURN. THE REASON IS UNKNOWN. IT HAPPEN AFTER THE ALARM CLOCK ON PC, WHICH IS CONNECTED WAS ACTIVATED. This solution still works, because it lowers the noise coming from the dc to dc converter. The noise did return but not as strong. Keep the volume down and use external amplifier from rear output jack.
Edited by wricofac129 - Today at 9:44 am
Edited by wricofac129 - 5/6/13 at 9:47am
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post #13 of 15
5/7/13 at 12:41pm
Possible simple fix. Remove the lamp door and locate the door sensor, hold down the sensor arm completely then try to turn the TV on with the remote. If that works then try taping the lamp door sensor arm back. If not remove the sensor and test it. I read about some using a wire to bypass the sensor.

When it fails it will shut off the TV even when seated properly.




Remov
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post #14 of 15
5/12/13 at 9:30am
Can someone help. I replaced the color wheel on my Samsung HLR6167W and now the tv will not start. I hear the fans running. The lamp light on the front of the set flashes and then all three lights will continually flash until I unplug the set. Any suggestions.
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post #15 of 15
5/15/13 at 3:10pm
I am having the same start problem with an HLN567W1X where after a couple of minuets the picture goes away. Pressing the power button on the remote has no response. After unplugging the TV and waiting a few minuets the TV will turn on again but shut off after a couple of minuets. Repeating this a few time and the TV will stay on. Shutting the TV off for the night and turning it on the next day and the same thing happens again. I now have it turned on for two days without shutting it off and it works fine. The picture is still gorgeous as it has been since I bought the TV in 2003. I would thing that if the color wheel or lamp circuit was having problems it would show up all the time not just when starting up.

PixelPretty, did you solve the problem with your TV?
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