Originally Posted by WagBoss
Another couple questions if you don't mind..
I don't mind at all.
If you are building a single amp, like for a sub, then what is shown is what you need. However, if you are building multiple amps, like for a stereo or surround system, then a larger, single power-supply would be more cost-effective. I suspect that is why he has the power-supply separated from the amp.
For C1, what voltage? It just says 4700 pF X2
If you are running on 117 volts AC, then I would use at least a 200 volt cap. If you need to also run up to 240 volts, then I would use a 400 volt cap.
. . . for C2 and C3, would these be better or does it not matter?
I doubt that they are any better. If they were close to the same price, then I might consider the "audio" versions just to impress the layman. But price would be my main criteria.
What exactly is B1, the bridge rectifier? I can't find any info on what diodes it uses.
Do you mean BR1? yes, it's a bridge. The rating should be at least 60 volts and 10 amps
For F1, what fuse should I use off of mouser? Again, no info from what I can see.
I would use a circuit-breaker, myself. 250va divided by 110 volts would say a minimum of 2.3 amps. Probably a 2.5 amp slo-blo would be best. A fast-blow fuse would probably blow on power-up with the surge that fills the filter-caps.
I assume SW1 is just connected to the main power switch?
SW1 is the main power switch.