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OPTOMA HD25 HD25LV new budget 2D 3D DLP FULL projector - Page 12

post #331 of 549
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonjandran View Post

Yes.

I found out that Netflix only streams 3D to 2 ISP's and mine isn't one of them. So no wonder no 3D.

But I also have SpiderMan 3D Blu-Ray and no 3D when I play it. It just looks like a standard Blu-Ray.

Maybe I'm not meant to have it. LOL

Which ISP's?
post #332 of 549
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebrackin View Post

I just wanted to let everyone here know that Xpand 105 RF glasses do not work on the Optoma HD25. We tried for 2 hours unsuccessfully to get them to pair to the emitter and its a no go. We have a 3D monitor for work and it took 10 sec for them to pair to it so I am sure it is the Optoma not able to get it done. It really is a shame because they are good glasses and everything I read made it appear they would work with any RF/Bluetooth emitter. Oh well.


I wish all HD25 series owners would complain (I did) to Optoma about only their RF glasses/emitter working with these projectors. Like you I tried the Xpand glasses (with Optoma and another RF emitter) but won't work. The Xpand glasses are half the cost. Tried IR glasses with matching emitter and that won't work either.
post #333 of 549
Hello HD25-LV owners,

I am getting this projector shipped to me as I type this. However, I cant decide what screen to get, white or high contrast grey. The projector will be in my living room, mounted on the ceiling about 12-13' from a 110" screen. The room has windows on both sides of the screen and i will not have control of the light (besides closing the shades) during the day. Granted I will be doing most of my viewing at night but I would like to have a good picture when watching football on Sundays and other various shows/movies during the day.

These are the 2 screens I have it narrowed down to:

http://www.amazon.com/Elitech-Electric-Motorized-Projector-Projection/dp/B008GXLVEC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2AD8HXMDY1NDY&coliid=I3K9KVG09FDOI4

http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix-Flexio-16-9-Electric-Motorized-Screen-110-p/20026.htm

Now I know neither of these screens are top of the line but I would like a decent picture with daytime viewing. I will mostly watch movies and do some gaming.

I am leaning towards the grey screen but would appreciate any input from those who have this PJ in their living room with ambient light.

Thanks for your help!

Kris


Edit: Just cancelled my order. Found the HD25e after reading this thread. Now I guess I need to decide between the e and lv. I sure do like the bulb price difference. Wonder if I can get enough lumens out of the e model for my situation.
Edited by djkms - 8/13/13 at 10:02am
post #334 of 549
Just ordered hd25e from amazon,now I need to decide on RF or DLP glasses.Will be delivered on Friday.Now I can take down my infocus sp4805 .
post #335 of 549
i'm on the same boat the first projector that i saw was the sp4805 and my HD25e Will be delivered on Friday too, about RF or DLP glasses i like the RF has a best sync
post #336 of 549
Quote:
Originally Posted by terry2 View Post

Just got the HD25e. Ordered from Amazon but noticed it was shipped directly from Optoma. Got it ceiling mounted last night. Took longer because I had the mount positioned so the projector would be 9" above the screen as per the Optoma calculator. Turns out to line up with my 120" screen it needs to only be 6" above the screen. Also I mounted it 13'6" back which was close to the min. distance but looks like it can go about a foot closer to the screen (wrong - my mistake -it's about as close as can be mounted). Only had it on for a couple of hours last night but here's my first thoughts. Out of the box I flipped the image for ceiling mount and only made 2 other changes after powering on. Put the lamp in ECO and adjusted the tint control as it was pushing red (color and tint are both active on this unit using HDMI). That's it. The color on this unit is fantastic. It has a rich, deep look to it (which the Benq W1070 I returned did not have). The brightness and focus are uniform across the entire screen. Don't see any geometry issues with the test grid. I did put in a 3D blu-ray for a couple of minutes to make sure it works. I only have dlp-link glasses right now but they seemed to work ok. There was no red tint on the screen in 3D mode like the Benq. Using white flash I guess. Didn't notice the fan running so appears to be pretty quiet. My walls and ceiling are a dark brown with medium brown carpet and this projector is plenty bright in ECO mode. One thing that really stood out to me was the clarity of the image. The Benq and even the Mits projectors I had always seemed to have a haze on the picture. This one does not. It is crystal clear. Plan on getting more familiar with it over the next few days so will post any problems if they occur. So far it's looking good.

BTW - I'm running the HDMI thru an Onkyo TX-NR717 receiver. On my previous Mits HD1000 projector the color control was active but not tint. On the Benq both color and tint were greyed out. They are both active on this one for whatever reason (the manual says they shouldn't be using HDMI).


I ordered HD25e after reading your experience with w1070 and H25e,Thanks for sharing
post #337 of 549
Quote:
Originally Posted by cristian.j View Post

I ordered HD25e after reading your experience with w1070 and H25e,Thanks for sharing
I think you'll be happy with it. So far (about 100 hours) I've not had any problem and very pleased with it's performance. Plenty bright on 120" screen in Eco mode.
post #338 of 549
Quote:
Originally Posted by biliam1982 View Post

Which ISP's?

To possibly answer your problem about 3D on through the PS3. We have our's doing the same thing and here is what we did to get it working.

Run through the PS3 setup just like you did

Also make sure in the Optoma menu that the correct 3D setting is selected. (for us it was VESA)

Then I knew going into this that my current Pioneer Elite VSX03 THX was not a 1.4 HDMI 3D pass-through receiver so I had to run a separate HDMI cable from the PS3 to the HDMI 2 of the Optoma; then a Optical cable to the receiver from the PS3.

Make sure you turn off the audio of the Optoma

At this point the whole system should operate automatically.

We have watched Despicable ME and Jurassic Park so far in 3D in Eco mode and with no ambient light I find that the slight dimness from the glasses does not detract from the movie. your eyes adjust after a few minutes so you will never know.


As for a response to HUNGARY regarding HD25 after a bit of use:

I have had my HD25 running at least 2 hours a day for the last 3 weeks and I absolutely love it! My room is smaller, 15 x 17 and I have the projector shelf mounted upside down at the top of the rear ceiling shining on a Elite Sable 120" fixed screen. The room is a dark green with a black ceiling and I have acoustic treatment to either side of the screen and curtains over that. I replaced a ceiling fan with dimmable track lighting for now and even with the track lights at half brightness (enough to eat and see everything) The screen looks great! It complete darkness of course, everything pops out and while I have never seen a really high dollar home projector I am very satisfied with the HD25. Blacks are very good, I am sure with some tweaking I can get them a touch better but in a dark room any bars are not noticeable enough to detract from the movie experience. Cable looks good and Netflix looks very good as well.

I pulled my initial calibration settings from online and I do really like these settings and would recommend this to anyone just getting started. Once I reach 200 hours I will go through Spears and Munsil Version 2 and see if there is any fine tweaking to do. My settings for normal watching and 3D watching are the same and I think in 3D it looks just as good. Like I said before, there is a slight dimming from putting 3D glasses on but even I never saw it go to the point where I wanted to turn the projector to Active Mode and I forgot about it as soon as the movie started.

In Eco mode the projector is silent. It sits about 6 feet up and 4 feet behind me and I cant hear it. Even in 3D mode which does turn it up a bit, I still cant hear it. I would recommend in smaller rooms to insulate the rear, upper, corners of the room because the fan does send an echo that can be slightly annoying. I am pretty sure this would happen to every projector on the market in a small room.

Once College football starts I will get a chance to see what this thing can do with a side sliding glass door uncovered and ambient light at the same time. I think it will perform wonderfully.

Here is my calibration settings for anyone interested.

DISPLAY MODE: USER
BRIGHTNESS: 0
CONTRAST: -3
SHARPNESS: 9
COLOR: 9 TINT: 2 (I couldn't find these so they are default for me)

ADVANCED

NOISE REDUCTION: 0
GAMMA: FILM
BRILLIANT COLOR: 1 (Brilliant color and dynamic black greatly increase projector computing and make it much louder. if calibrated you don't need these features. just think of them as artificial and something you don't want anyway)
DYNAMIC BLACK: OFF
COLOR TEMPERATURE: WARM

COLOR SETTINGS: NUMBERED: HUE, SATURATION, GAIN

RED: 0, -1, -10
GREEN: 10, -2, -3
BLUE: 10, 0, -22
CYAN: 8, -4, -3
MAGENTA: 19, 4, -16
YELLOW: 20, -7, 4

WHITE: RED-(0), GREEN-(0), BLUE-(-1)

COLOR SPACE: AUTO
FORMAT: NATIVE
post #339 of 549
Im getting my optoma 25e on friday and just ordered 4 rf glasses and emiter.Looking at the picture from amazon it has buttons.Do u have yo configure each pair of glasses?And second,do u guys think we should start a thread Optoma 25e?Thanks Danny
post #340 of 549
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannypanny View Post

Im getting my optoma 25e on friday and just ordered 4 rf glasses and emiter.Looking at the picture from amazon it has buttons.Do u have yo configure each pair of glasses?And second,do u guys think we should start a thread Optoma 25e?Thanks Danny


this model Optoma BG-ZF2100GLS ?
post #341 of 549
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannypanny View Post

Im getting my optoma 25e on friday and just ordered 4 rf glasses and emiter.Looking at the picture from amazon it has buttons.Do u have yo configure each pair of glasses?And second,do u guys think we should start a thread Optoma 25e?Thanks Danny

With Optoma RF glasses all you have to do is plug in the emitter to the VESA port, make sure the projector is set in 3D settings to VESA, and push the button on the glasses and they will connect. Very simple!
post #342 of 549
Quote:
Originally Posted by cristian.j View Post

this model Optoma BG-ZF2100GLS ?[yes those are the ones]
post #343 of 549
thanks
post #344 of 549
I posted this as part of a question in the CIH forum, but I'm not sure if anyone over there actually used the HD25, so I thought I'd ask here as well.

I'm trying to use the HD25-LV with an anamorphic lens on a 2.35 screen. When I put the projector into LBX / letterbox mode in order to use the vertical stretch with the anamorphic lens, the picture is stretched too far, such that the ultimate image is TOO vertically stretched. People look tall and thin. It's not so excessive that a casual viewer might not notice it, but I certainly couldn't put up with it.

Has anyone experienced this, or can anyone with an HD25 test this on their unit and see if they're seeing the same thing? I haven't found a way to adjust the stretch, but obviously if anyone knows of a way to do that that would also solve my problem. Otherwise, I'm afraid there's no way I can keep this.

Thanks.
post #345 of 549
Just use native aspect ration on the Optoma. The reason you got the anamorphic was to stretch the screen. The lens will do the work for you.
post #346 of 549
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebrackin View Post

Just use native aspect ration on the Optoma. The reason you got the anamorphic was to stretch the screen. The lens will do the work for you.
I'm replacing another projector using the same setup, so I'm familiar with how the lens works. Anamorphic films don't fill the screen vertically, so using the lens with the projector in native mode stretches the image to the full desired width horizontally, but just stretches the letterbox bars at the top and bottom as well, leaving an image that's too wide and doesn't fill the screen top to bottom. Thus the vertical stretch mode on the projector (known as LBX on this projector).
post #347 of 549
I get you; I wish I had an answer, I have read about them but I have no personal experience
post #348 of 549
I can't seem to get this to sync with my computer through HDMI. I tried 2 different cables( one works with DTV and the other works with PS3). I also tried different resolutions and timings still nothing. My old projector still links fine. I'm using ATI hd 5600 video card with the latest 13.4 drivers. The computer sees the projector as Optoma 1080p but the projector just scans through inputs and never syncs. Anybody have this working with a similar setup?
Edited by Gruz1 - 8/18/13 at 2:33pm
post #349 of 549
Quote:
Originally Posted by popechild View Post

I'm replacing another projector using the same setup, so I'm familiar with how the lens works. Anamorphic films don't fill the screen vertically, so using the lens with the projector in native mode stretches the image to the full desired width horizontally, but just stretches the letterbox bars at the top and bottom as well, leaving an image that's too wide and doesn't fill the screen top to bottom. Thus the vertical stretch mode on the projector (known as LBX on this projector).
I posted this in the CIH forum, but figured I'd put it here as well in case anyone thinks about using the Optoma in a CIH setup with a lens. I tested the Optoma side by side with my Infocus SP8602 using a blu-ray fed to both projectors simultaneously, and confirmed that the Optoma does in fact over-stretch the image vertically in LBX mode - well past the black bars and into the picture. Which means that once you put the anamorphic lens in place, you're still left with an image that is stretched too far vertically, so the geometry is (noticeably, in my case) incorrect. Hopefully this will save someone else the headache. If you want to use this projector with an anamorphic lens, you'll want to use an external scaler to do the scaling.
post #350 of 549
Quote:
Originally Posted by sh00kre View Post

I finally bought hd25 along with zf2100 glasses, and i am not happy with it.... colors are a bit dull, and not sharp at all, to be precise, if one of the corners is sharp then center of image get blurred, very very bad... maybe i expected too much, or cable i bought, some no name 10m hdmi 1.4 is bad (dont think so), or situation will get better after lamp has around 70hours, at least i heard that projector lamps are burning in something like speakers, earphones? Also dont think so.

It is better than infocus x9 (720p) i previously had but i expected much much more.... Now i regret i didnt wait for some good objective review.


I noticed the blurring at the corners as well, the closer I moved the projector to the screen, minimizing the amount of manual zoom, the better the overall focus was. It is only slightly out of focus now at the bottom right corner. Unless you are looking for it you don't notice it, before I moved the projector closer it was very noticeable, especially using a computer.
post #351 of 549
my projector is sharp from one edge to the other.no problems at all.i know what you are talking about. the problem you have is simply not having the projector 100% parallel to the screen.you'd be surprised how much you can turn the projector a little to the left and little to the right and have the image look "right"
also,it could be that the lense isn't 100% to the center of the screen.once again,you can be off with this and have the picture look "right" when in fact you are off.it has to be completely parallel and to the center 100%
post #352 of 549
Any HD25 owner having RBE issue with this i wonder...
post #353 of 549
Would like to hear how the HD25e compares to the HD25. I've had the HD25 for around 8 weeks now, love it, but I'm always on the hunt for better black levels. I'm actually running a ND2 filter on it now, but may take it off as I'm having a hard time getting colors right with it on. Any chance anyone has compared brightness/black levels with HD25e vs. HD25? We already know the HD25-LV is brighter than the HD25, but worse black levels.
post #354 of 549
Just picked up a HD25e fro amazon ...... well, picked it up last week but the first one must of had a lens issue or something as the sharpness was all over place, received the new on today and have it mounted and beaming.

Coming form an HD33 I can say it is the brightness bump IO was desperately looking for, not too bright (why I didn't go for the LV version), but a decent amount brighter than my HD33.

Blacks are nice, especially with the added lumens. Anyone who says the blacks are bad (at this price point) are nutzo.

3D is phenomenal! The extra brightness pays off well here, as does the Optoma ZF2100GLS glasses. They are a marked improvement over the BG-3DRF glasses I ran on my HD33. Seems to be a bit lighter shade and hte fit is crazy good over my prescription glasses compared to the BG-3DRF's.

The only thing that's irking me is I cant get dialed in is the color. Admittedly I haven't run a calibration disk yet, but it just seems to be a bit more stubborn that usual.

Anyone have any settings they'd like to share? I'm running a 110 inch 1.0 gain BOC screen
Edited by futurecode - 9/13/13 at 11:09am
post #355 of 549
Quote:
Just picked upan HD25e fro amazon ...... well, picked it up last week but tyhe first one must of had a lens issue or soemthing as the sharpness was all over place, recieved the new on today and have it mounted and beaming.

Coming form an HD33 I cna say it is the brightness bump IO was desperately looking for, not too bright (why I didn;t go for the LV version), but a decent amount brighter than my HD33.

Blacks are nice, especially with the added lumens. Anyone who says the blacks are bad (at this price piont) are nutzo.

3D is phenomenal! The extra brightness pays off well here, as does the Optoma ZF2100GLS glasses. They are a marked improvement over the BG-3DRF glasses I ran on my HD33. Seems to be a bit lighter shade and hte fit is crazy good over my prescription glasses compared to the BG-3DRF's.

The only thing that's irking me is I cant get dialed in is the color. Admittedly I haven't run a calibration disk yet, but it just seems to be a bit more stubborn that usual.

Anyone have any settings they'd like to share? I'm running a 110 inch 1.0 gain BOC screen

Nice reviews from your experience..
Give us more...
post #356 of 549
Quote:
Originally Posted by hungary View Post

Nice reviews from your experience..
Give us more...

I ran my AVDHD disk last night and dialed in the brightness, contrast and sharpness, muuuuuuuuch better, but I can find my filters so I'll have to either find them or order more to dail in the color.

As per you question earlier, I have seen very slight rainbows with my HD25e, but I saw the same with my HD33 for the first few days of use, but they subsided after that, so I assume the same with the HD25e. Ill definitely report back if/when they do.
post #357 of 549
Quote:
I ran my AVDHD disk last night and dialed in the brightness, contrast and sharpness, muuuuuuuuch better, but I can find my filters so I'll have to either find them or order more to dail in the color.

As per you question earlier, I have seen very slight rainbows with my HD25e, but I saw the same with my HD33 for the first few days of use, but they subsided after that, so I assume the same with the HD25e. Ill definitely report back if/when they do.

futurecode, what do you think for the latest HD25e, darkchip 3 image quality, compared to the older HD33 which is a higher end model? other than less bright output.

How about the image interpolation in HD33? do you still miss it now? as it does not come with HD25e
post #358 of 549
Hi folks... new here so please take it easy on me.

I'm going to be ordering an HD25 and was wondering what the 'sweet spot' to mount it should be. Already went to Projector Central distance calculator but I'm unable to figure out if the distance they say I should mount it at is correct. I want to mount it where the picture doesn't suffer from quality loss. Is there an acceptable range for this?

Thanks!
post #359 of 549
I have mine somewhere around 16 feet and I would say that should be a bare minimum in my opinion but even better at 17 or 18 feet. I have to zoom all the way out manually and hit the digital zoom out to level -2. Getting the projector perfectly level with the screen will be the most important though. I think the issues with blurry edges and keystoning can be prevented by mounting it sturdy and level, IMHO. I hope that helps!
post #360 of 549
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebrackin View Post

I have mine somewhere around 16 feet and I would say that should be a bare minimum in my opinion but even better at 17 or 18 feet. I have to zoom all the way out manually and hit the digital zoom out to level -2. Getting the projector perfectly level with the screen will be the most important though. I think the issues with blurry edges and keystoning can be prevented by mounting it sturdy and level, IMHO. I hope that helps!

Thanks for your response bud, how big is your screen?

Sent from my S3 using Tapatalk HD
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