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OPTOMA HD25 HD25LV new budget 2D 3D DLP FULL projector - Page 14

post #391 of 560

For some reason, even without squeezing or tapping, the issue went away for me and then mysteriously returned after a few hours(<6hrs). It comes down to rough shipping & handling. My new one will be here Thurs. As long as it doesn't give me any issues, I'll be returning the current one then too. I work away from home and won't be able to make it to the house until then.

post #392 of 560
I contacted Optoma about the focus issues with my hd25e and wa told they would fix the lens under warranty. Has anyone else had theirs repaired??

So far this is the only thing I have been disappointed with. I have been able to noticed it much except on my desktop but if it isn't in focus neither is a movie or tv show I'm watching.
post #393 of 560
Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadianZ View Post

I contacted Optoma about the focus issues with my hd25e and wa told they would fix the lens under warranty. Has anyone else had theirs repaired??

So far this is the only thing I have been disappointed with. I have been able to noticed it much except on my desktop but if it isn't in focus neither is a movie or tv show I'm watching.
they just started accepting returns for repair last week...I imagine it will be a few weeks before anyone get thiers back repaired... apparently from what was posted here the authorized repair facilities arent even expected to receive the replacement lenses till next week...
post #394 of 560
Quote:
Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post

they just started accepting returns for repair last week...I imagine it will be a few weeks before anyone get thiers back repaired... apparently from what was posted here the authorized repair facilities arent even expected to receive the replacement lenses till next week...

Will Optoma cover shipping costs both ways for the lens replacement? Also, is there a chance, you'll end up getting a refurbed unit with the new lens instead of the one you send in? I've never dealt with Optoma customer service, so I'm curious.
post #395 of 560
Does the hd131xe still suffer from this lens issue?
post #396 of 560
Quote:
Originally Posted by azzman View Post

Does the hd131xe still suffer from this lens issue?
I would say so..until the stock is all bought up at least .. like the hd66 heatsink related dead pixel issue dead defect it appears optoma is just going to sell them all and the ones that come back for repair .... come back for repair... Most wont notice this issue at all for me it was almost unoticable to begin with...now I cant see it at all with a video processor in the loop.
The issue is reallybeing exaggerated here as the older hd25 and 131x as well as the 25-lv and eh300 and hd30 and all the other variants of this projector share the same optics and if you go back to those reviews like arts review on the hd25 you'll see he mentions the soft corners and that its normal for these budget projectors.... even now some claim they dont have it and other do.... My thoughts are in reality we all do since it was a mold defect in the lenses...its just some see it and some dont. people that use it for its intended use for video and movies only will not be bothered by it and if it wasnt for reading about it here, like RBE effect it wouldnt be noticed or a big deal for as many.
Edited by augiedoggy - 10/22/13 at 4:43am
post #397 of 560
Thanks for the reply. I was just concerned as I will be having the unit shipped to Australia and it will be harder to get any warranty work done. Btw, any recommendation on a ceiling mounts for these units?
post #398 of 560

One side note. I had worse focus issue on my Epson EX70 to the point it was slightly noticeable even during video if you were looking off-center of the screen and it was very noticeable with any sort of 1:1 pixel image. My HD25-LV I have currently doesn't seem to have any lens issues, but it is likely from a more recent batch.

Side note: I got my HD25-LV from http://www.bhphotovideo.com/ and their customer service has been excellent so far with everything arriving on time and handling my return/replacement claim quickly and without problems. They were also the single cheapest source for me at $1174.99+shipping(I upgraded the shipping to get it faster) Amazon was more due to sales tax, but I've never had any issues with their customer service either.

post #399 of 560
Anyone has black vertical line across the whole screen? How did u solve it?
post #400 of 560
Problem solved. I pressed on the casing, pushed against the lens and the lines disappeared. Think it's a loose connection inside. Could also b when doing firmware update I pushed the USB cable in from the back and it gently moved the DMD chip connector.
post #401 of 560
Quote:
Originally Posted by azzman View Post

Thanks for the reply. I was just concerned as I will be having the unit shipped to Australia and it will be harder to get any warranty work done. Btw, any recommendation on a ceiling mounts for these units?
Azzman, first of all, your name is funny! Is it related to the infamous assman episode of Seinfeld from the 90s? Secondly, I actually worked with Jennifer Assmann. No joke. Thirdly, I bought a universal mount for this projector for my ceiling, and it was horrible!!! Visit the optoma website and buy the expensive one. It's so much better.
post #402 of 560

Hey all,

 

I got the hd25e and purchased a pair of Sainsoic dlp link glasses.  The glasses sync perfectly when I play a 3d game on my PS3, but when I try to run a 3d blu-ray, the glasses will flicker when I hit the power button but then shut off and no 3d.  Does anyone know anything on this or point me to a forum that has some info.  I'm a long time reader, but first time post.

 

Thanks all!

post #403 of 560
Sounds like the glasses are 120hz instead of 144hz
post #404 of 560
Quote:
Originally Posted by tanwn1 View Post

Problem solved. I pressed on the casing, pushed against the lens and the lines disappeared. Think it's a loose connection inside. Could also b when doing firmware update I pushed the USB cable in from the back and it gently moved the DMD chip connector.

Definitely a loose internal connection. I've seen multiple reports that squeezing it solved the issue for many. It worked for me then several hours later the issue came back. It's a poor connection and once it heats up, the problem can get worse(metal becomes more resistive as temperature increases and a poor connection works against that by creating more heat). I had my unit exchanged that had the line issue. No issues to report at all from my new one.

My complaints:
Problem: I didn't like that it tried to switch source every time a signal changed resolutions(should be a few sec delay before it starts doing that :P)
Solution: Source lock fixes the switching(you lose auto switching to an active signal if a signal is completely lost, but I can live with that), but Optoma could reduce the annoyance by adding about a 1-2 second delay before it starts looking at other inputs for signal after losing the current one.

Problem: The time to switch modes takes entirely too long and the hourglass icon makes the process look "cheap" for lack of a better term.
Solution: None known, but Optoma should at least change the icon in a future firmware update(Also, see first issue).

Problem: The single user preset that isn't a "saved" preset(like radio stations on a receiver) but only a "default to my last used settings" preset(every radio ever defaults to the last station you tuned in to) is also annoying but liveable.
Solution: None known. Depending on how how much memory the system has for settings, a saved "user" setting and a "default" second setting(which mimics the way the first works) would allow users to tinker with less annoyance or having to remember their "user" setting.

Problem: I wish it would allow SBS 3D mode from a 1080p60 VGA connection as my HTPC won't do 1080p24 over a VGA connection and I use the HDMI connections for my game systems(I haven't checked if my HTPC will do 1080i60 over HDMI from my HTPC). I realize it's a bandwidth and format issue with the HDMI spec(but I feel 3D displays should able to do 3D from a SBS 1080p60 source as a frame pack 1080i60 as 1080p30 fits in the bandwidth). Side by Side 1/2 H res 1080p60 should be a 3D standard as it fits within the bandwidth specs for HDMI 1.4 at 8.92Ghz (1080p30 = 1080i60 bandwidth). To me 1080p24 looks "jerky" but 720p30 doesn't. Optionally through software scaling I can also do 1/2 H res 1080p60 SBS upscaled to Full res 1080p60 2D.
Solution: Still working on that one and have more testing to do... I'm going to play with the timings on my HTPC to see if I can force output a 1080i signal. However the PJ does accept a 720p120 signal over VGA and last I checked SBS 1/2 H res 720p60(which is 7.92Ghz) wasn't an official HDMI spec either. For gaming purposes, Frame Packed 1080p30 should be a standard.

Except for minor switching issues and my trying to get 3D at 1080 anything from my HTPC over VGA issues, I'm very satisfied with my purchase and the decision to go with this particular model for my purposes.


Edited by Kreationz - 11/2/13 at 6:06am
post #405 of 560
hey all, how is this pj as far as mounting with no lens shift? Looking for my first pj and I only have the option of ceiling mounting. couch is 14' away form the wall and looking to do 120"+ screen
post #406 of 560
Optoma HD25 or BenQ W1070...which is better? rolleyes.gif
In the W1070 & W1080ST thread, there are many people who complain about the noisy fan. How about HD25? What is the common defect / problem for the HD25 currently?
Any reliability issue so far for this HD25?
post #407 of 560
I notice that there are no complain about focus issue in this thread (keyword "focus" search 10 results) compare to those from HD131Xe (151 results).
Does that mean HD25, HD25e, HD25-LV has better built quality than HD131Xe?
post #408 of 560
And there's lately a comparison demo of HD25 and W1300 (similar to W1070) in Taiwan, a forumer concluded that, HD25 tends to review more shadows details, while W1300 is sharper.
I wonder if anybody knows that W1070 is sharper than HD25 or the same, despite of the color difference?
post #409 of 560
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

Optoma HD25 or BenQ W1070...which is better? rolleyes.gif
In the W1070 & W1080ST thread, there are many people who complain about the noisy fan. How about HD25? What is the common defect / problem for the HD25 currently?
Any reliability issue so far for this HD25?


The HD25-LV is a bit noisy when you have the fan on high due to enabling "Dynamic Black" or "High Altitude", but overall is quieter than my last PJ when it's not in one of those modes.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

I notice that there are no complain about focus issue in this thread (keyword "focus" search 10 results) compare to those from HD131Xe (151 results).
Does that mean HD25, HD25e, HD25-LV has better built quality than HD131Xe?


I do have a very slight focus issue on my HD25-LV, but it's simply not bad enough for me to worry about sending it in.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by hungary View Post

And there's lately a comparison demo of HD25 and W1300 (similar to W1070) in Taiwan, a forumer concluded that, HD25 tends to review more shadows details, while W1300 is sharper.
I wonder if anybody knows that W1070 is sharper than HD25 or the same, despite of the color difference?


This is likely the case. From what I can tell looking at various reviews and with experience from my HD25-LV, it seems the BenQ's have better optics, but the Optoma's have better light output and slightly better out of the box color. Once calibrated, there's likely very little difference other than lumen count between them(but haven't looked much at the W1300).

post #410 of 560
After a couple of years with the Mitsubishi HC6500, I decided to pull the trigger on the HD25-LV. My only experience with DLP was seeing a demo of the venerable Infocus X1, which definitely had rainbow effect, but I take it the technology has advanced since then. Also my first foray into 3D. I bought it from Amazon with the Estar RF glasses. If RBE is still an issue for me, at least the return will be easy.
post #411 of 560

I find that I'm one who is fairly sensitive to RBE, but I've noticed it very little on this PJ and generally only when specifically looking for it.

post #412 of 560
Looking forward to hearing from you reviewing the LV
post #413 of 560
I finally took the plunge and bought an LV last night. This was an upgrade from my trusty HD66. I couldn't be happier. No problems with focus or anything else. I am switching from DLP-link glasses to RF glasses since my old glasses won't sync to 144hz, but I couldn't wait to try out the 3D, so I used my (now unneeded) 3D-XL box to feed a 720P@60hz signal from my 3D Blu-ray player to the new projector. This trick allowed me to watch a 3D Blu ray (MADAGASCAR 3) since the projector displays 60hz input at 120hz. I was utterly blown away by the colors and brightness compared to the HD66. I had to keep reminding myself: "It's going to get even better. This is a 720P downconverted movie that I'm watching. Hard to believe!" I ran some 1080P@24hz tests tonight to look for flickering issues -- none found. It was frustrating to watch a double image that I couldn't see in 3D (since I haven't got the RF glasses), but I watched enough to tell that triple-flash 3D is going to be a breathtaking experience.

I am very glad that I went with the extra lumens on this projector. It makes all the difference in terms of perceived depth and pop-out. I loved the HD66, but this puppy blows it away in terms of the 3D experience. Now I want to watch all of my (70+) 3D Blus all over again.

I had been holding out for next weekend, hoping that there would be Black Friday / Cyber Monday discounts, but discovered that a local Best Buy had gotten in an open box, and I managed to talk them down to what I could afford. I hope all other future LV owners will have as positive an experience as I've had.
post #414 of 560
Wow... that is awesome!! Thanks fxrh!
post #415 of 560
Has anyone here compared DLP Link glasses to RF, and can you state the pros and cons?
post #416 of 560

For a throw of 11', it depends on the light control(better control means you need fewer lumens) in your room and planned screen size(determines where it can be mounted and lumens needed) and material(also determines lumens needed) to know which projector will meet your needs. For the HD-25LV, going with a standard gain of 1.0, at 11' of throw, you'd be looking at an offset of 7" to 8" (space needed above or below screen), plenty of brightness even for a moderately lit room(might need an NV filter for dark viewing as it will likely be too bright then), and a screen size of 84" to 101"(recommend a grey HC screen with this PJ at that distance if viewing in ambient light during the day as the lumen loss will more than be made up for in terms of contrast as you'll have lumens to spare even in 3D).

post #417 of 560
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg_R_STL View Post

Has anyone here compared DLP Link glasses to RF, and can you state the pros and cons?


All of my glasses are RF, but I have both Optoma(2 pair) and Estar glasses(4 pair) and they are identical(down to the bags and accessories). The only difference I've seen is the finish and the logos on them. I'm also using Estar firmware and calibration software with an Optoma RF emitter and confirm the emitters are identical as well.


P.S. That software give an advantage to the RF glasses in my book as I can fully calibrate it to eliminate any hint of crosstalk or color-shifting(due to the nature of DLP if the calibration of the 3D shutter timings is off it will cause a color shift due to opening too late or closing to soon which also lowers brightness).


Edited by Kreationz - 11/24/13 at 10:12pm
post #418 of 560
Thanks, Kreationz! I got an Elitech HC Gray to help with black levels. I'm thinking 110" at a projector distance of 13 ft.
post #419 of 560
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kreationz View Post

For a throw of 11', it depends on the light control(better control means you need fewer lumens) in your room and planned screen size(determines where it can be mounted and lumens needed) and material(also determines lumens needed) to know which projector will meet your needs. For the HD-25LV, going with a standard gain of 1.0, at 11' of throw, you'd be looking at an offset of 7" to 8" (space needed above or below screen), plenty of brightness even for a moderately lit room(might need an NV filter for dark viewing as it will likely be too bright then), and a screen size of 84" to 101"(recommend a grey HC screen with this PJ at that distance if viewing in ambient light during the day as the lumen loss will more than be made up for in terms of contrast as you'll have lumens to spare even in 3D).

how about a throw of 14-15'? Looking to do a 120-130" screen….what kind of screen / gain should i look for? Light will be controllable..maybe be some ambient during the day form the side
post #420 of 560
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg_R_STL View Post

Thanks, Kreationz! I got an Elitech HC Gray to help with black levels. I'm thinking 110" at a projector distance of 13 ft.

 

Elitech HC Gray is listed at a gain of "1.1". At that gain, 110" and a projection distance distance of 13', you'll be right at mid-zoom and the calc predicts 44fl for brightness. You'll bee in a nice sweet spot that is plenty bright for some ambient light, with excellent 3D and dark viewing as well. Also, you'll be less likely to have focus issues due to not being at the extreme ends of the zoom.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BADASS03SVT View Post


how about a throw of 14-15'? Looking to do a 120-130" screen….what kind of screen / gain should i look for? Light will be controllable..maybe be some ambient during the day form the side

That would be close to my set-up(detailed below). 120" @14'  and a 1.0 gain you'll be looking at 34fl and also be in the sweet spot for focus and similar brightness to my system. For 130" @ 15', you'll be zoomed slightly more(I'm personally at almost max zoom) and you lose about 10% of your brightness, but still be bright enough for a small amount of ambient light. If you plan to do most of your viewing with some ambient light I would recommend a HC grey screen with at least a 1.0 gain(1.1 on the least bright set-up you mention bumps it to 32fl, 0.9 would drop it to 27fl and with 3D would likely be too dim under some circumstances). Likely the best screen would be one of the Stewart Firehawk series, but I make budget recommendations based on value vs performance. Stewart screens are top of the line for performance but one can easily cost 2x as much as the PJ itself.

Note: My personal set-up is a 1.1 gain Elite Screen @ 135" and 14'10". The calculator puts brightness for me at 32fl and I've found it plenty bright for even moderate ambient light(read as dimly lit room with enough light to read). The 3D is overall looks great as well, but suffers some when there is any ambient light(3D viewing should always be dark viewing whether using a projector or a flat panel, otherwise it makes the 3D wash out and look "ghostly" for lack of a better term).

Side note: Personally where 3D is concerned, from what I can tell about 40% of the brightness is lost and would be similar in brightness to viewing a 0.6 gain screen. The brightness loss also means you need better light control for image quality when viewing 3D vs 2D on the same set-up. This doesn't matter if you don't plan to watch 3D content.

P.S. The calculator I'm using for for these numbers is located at: http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-HD25-LV-projection-calculator-pro.htm

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