What I usually do is start with all my parts and lay them out on a sheet of paper trying to place them so that the leads are close enough to connect without needing extra wire. This is sort of like a puzzle trying to find the bet orientation of parts as to minimize wasted space and still keep inductors with some distance between them. You tend to become quicker at that after you have done a few. Once I find a layout I like I'll fold or cut the sheet of paper to that size and mark the positions where the leads will drop through to the bottom of the board. There is no need to run the wires underneath it only makes the board look cleaner, in fact most of mine are wired on top because I want to hurry up an listen to the speaker.
After the sheet is marked I'll cut some boards usually using 1/8" - 1/4" Masonite/hardboard and tape the sheet to the top of those then drill the holes. A drill press makes that job super quick and easy.
(This one was from Beast's TD12X boards)
Then it is just a matter of gluing down the parts and soldering everything together. Here is what the backside looks like:
The differences from Bill's parts list: The three caps got upgraded from Dayton's to Jantzen Crosscaps, the woofer inductor changed from the 18 gauge I core Erse to the 16 gauge superQ and the resistors bumped up in wattage. Only reason I did those changes is because Beastaudio did not want to use Dayton caps and had asked if anything else could be upgraded so I suggested the beefier inductor and resistors as to handle more power. bhazard just asked for the same ones as I did for Beast.