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TD12X SEOS Tower Speaker Build - Page 3

post #61 of 325
Looking forward to watching this one; I have a pair of TD12X coming myself cool.gif
post #62 of 325
Crossovers are done, ready for delivery smile.gif

post #63 of 325
ok im totally getting you to make my next xovers for me biggrin.gif

those look great
post #64 of 325
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

Crossovers are done, ready for delivery smile.gif


WOW! Those look awesome!

Edit: This may be a weird request but would you mind going into a little more detail concerning your crossover build. I have all the parts and would love to learn from you. I have a ton of experience with PCB's of all kinds, however none at all with making my own boards. Any pictures of the back for reference? Thank you for your consideration.
post #65 of 325
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

Crossovers are done, ready for delivery smile.gif
You're getting pretty good at those tongue.gif

Are there any tweaks on these and Beast's crossovers that you'd care to share, beyond nice caps where it counts? BTW which caps got the deluxe treatment? Sorry if you answered this question before and I forgot.
post #66 of 325
What I usually do is start with all my parts and lay them out on a sheet of paper trying to place them so that the leads are close enough to connect without needing extra wire. This is sort of like a puzzle trying to find the bet orientation of parts as to minimize wasted space and still keep inductors with some distance between them. You tend to become quicker at that after you have done a few. Once I find a layout I like I'll fold or cut the sheet of paper to that size and mark the positions where the leads will drop through to the bottom of the board. There is no need to run the wires underneath it only makes the board look cleaner, in fact most of mine are wired on top because I want to hurry up an listen to the speaker. biggrin.gif




After the sheet is marked I'll cut some boards usually using 1/8" - 1/4" Masonite/hardboard and tape the sheet to the top of those then drill the holes. A drill press makes that job super quick and easy.

(This one was from Beast's TD12X boards)




Then it is just a matter of gluing down the parts and soldering everything together. Here is what the backside looks like:




The differences from Bill's parts list: The three caps got upgraded from Dayton's to Jantzen Crosscaps, the woofer inductor changed from the 18 gauge I core Erse to the 16 gauge superQ and the resistors bumped up in wattage. Only reason I did those changes is because Beastaudio did not want to use Dayton caps and had asked if anything else could be upgraded so I suggested the beefier inductor and resistors as to handle more power. bhazard just asked for the same ones as I did for Beast.
post #67 of 325
Excellent mini-tutorial mtg, thanks for taking the time.

*clutters desktop with another www shortcut for quick reference*
post #68 of 325
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post


those look great

+1 and thanks for the writeup Matt! I was just about to ask if you had any hints/tricks for those of us assembling more frequently now. Appreciate the info. biggrin.gif
post #69 of 325
Awesome! Thank you for taking he time to detail your process. I am confident this will make things a bit faster for me. smile.gif
post #70 of 325
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I can't thank MTG enough. In no way would any first attempt of mine be as clean and well done as this.

Next up is the cabs. I re-enlisted JB's help on those, since there isn't a flat pack for towers. He did such a great job on my dual opposed SI's, that I hoped he could do these too. Great guy.

Once the cabs are done, I have the highly annoying but worth it job of staining and coating the crap out of the wood to match the sub enclosure.
post #71 of 325
Thread Starter 
TD12X woofers on the way!
post #72 of 325
Any updates on these? smile.gif
post #73 of 325
Thread Starter 
Cabinets are being built as we speak. Hoping to have them fully built and painted by the end of next week or so.
post #74 of 325
That is great news! Thanks for the update. I look forward to seeing these.
post #75 of 325
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhazard View Post

Cabinets are being built as we speak. Hoping to have them fully built and painted by the end of next week or so.

Sweet. You can come finish mine up after that. smile.gif
post #76 of 325
Can you run these with a JBL 2226H and a H290?
post #77 of 325
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mantha3 View Post

Can you run these with a JBL 2226H and a H290?

I would have to redesign the entire tower, dimensions, and slot port. I considered it, but I feel that the TD12X may be the better driver, and with the latest group buy, it was half the cost.

There is already a crossover schematic and front baffle available for the TD12X/SEOS12 also, where I don't think there is for the H290. The pre-cut baffle saves a ton of time.
post #78 of 325
Quote:
Originally Posted by mantha3 View Post

Can you run these with a JBL 2226H and a H290?

No. A new set of polar measurements would have to be conducted, phase alignment would be different due to changes in driver axis, and a completely new crossover scheme would need to be implemented. This crossover was designed specifically for the drivers listed.
post #79 of 325
bhazard, looking awesome, btw. Looking forward to seeing the enclosures when completed. smile.gif
post #80 of 325
Thread Starter 
I decided on a piano black finish for these, but I've never done one before. What would be the best way to implement it? I'm not sure if I still want to see woodgrain through it or not, but I want the mirror like black gloss.

I was thinking multiple coats of spray can black lacquer, with no sanding sealer, and just lots of fine sanding between each coat. Thoughts?
post #81 of 325
To get a true piano gloss black with no imperfections takes a ton of work. How about a gloss black laminate?
post #82 of 325
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

To get a true piano gloss black with no imperfections takes a ton of work. How about a gloss black laminate?

I'm not really looking for a perfect finish, just something glossy and reflective. It doesn't even need to be a mirror finish. I figured 7 coats of spray glossy black lacquer and a ton of sanding would do the trick.

This is the lacquer I picked up:

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1905830-Lacquer-Spray-11-Ounce/dp/B000C01534

Since it is a lacquer, it should seal up the MDF baffle, and should still look even along the birch box after several coats. I'll use a polishing compound on the last coat.
post #83 of 325
Preparation is the biggest thing in any piano type finish. Seams in MDF will telegraph through, crack, etc all the time. We typically seal up the entire cabinet with fiberglass resin first. This gives a good surface to work from that shouldn't move in the future.
post #84 of 325
Quote:
Originally Posted by John_E_Janowitz View Post

Preparation is the biggest thing in any piano type finish. Seams in MDF will telegraph through, crack, etc all the time. We typically seal up the entire cabinet with fiberglass resin first. This gives a good surface to work from that shouldn't move in the future.

Agreed. I prefer fiberglass prep for that type of finish.
post #85 of 325
Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

Agreed. I prefer fiberglass prep for that type of finish.
. That's a good idea. Any particular brand? Just follow instructions on the bottle? Thanks.
post #86 of 325
Cabinet build!















post #87 of 325
did you get the front baffle from Erich or did you make it yourself?
post #88 of 325
Thread Starter 
Erich's 40" Tower baffle.
post #89 of 325
Bhazard had them sent to me for the build. I could have done them but this was convenient and definitely worth the cost.
post #90 of 325
nice. Really curious to see how these look when they all come together. Will they be sealed or ported? Im thinking of doing a similar tower build with the SEOS 15s
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