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DIY screen material in 9+ ft roll widths?

post #1 of 22
1/31/13 at 4:18pm
Thread Starter 
I want to build a huge 250-280" ~ (9.3 ft x 22ft) 2:35 scope screen for my HT. But before I get too carried away, need to know that I can source suitably sized screen material. I guess I could always just use dry wall, but that rules out a curved screen.

So what are my options, if any?
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post #2 of 22
1/31/13 at 4:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve71 View Post

I want to build a huge 250-280" ~ (9.3 ft x 22ft) 2:35 scope screen for my HT. But before I get too carried away, need to know that I can source suitably sized screen material. I guess I could always just use dry wall, but that rules out a curved screen.

So what are my options, if any?

Are you planning to use an Anamorphic Lens (probably)
What Atomic Cannon of a PJ is planned for?

Don't discount the ability to use Drywall for a Curved Screen...if such is really necessary. Using 3/8" Drywall that is lightly Scored on the rear side is entirely do-able, especially given the relatively gentle axis of the curve involved with such a large screen.

Sectional-ized Sintra is another option, but my instinct tells me Drywall would be the "Go To" material.

For certain you will not find any flexible, Cloth-like material that size without it coming with multiple seams. But with Drywall, a precisely suitable coating can be applied, ideal for your PJ's output and viewing conditions.

So...give up some more info and let's make the biggest "Indoor" Theater Screen in AVS History a reality.
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post #3 of 22
1/31/13 at 5:04pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Are you planning to use an Anamorphic Lens (probably)
What Atomic Cannon of a PJ is planned for?

Don't discount the ability to use Drywall for a Curved Screen...if such is really necessary. Using 3/8" Drywall that is lightly Scored on the rear side is entirely do-able, especially given the relatively gentle axis of the curve involved with such a large screen.

Sectional-ized Sintra is another option, but my instinct tells me Drywall would be the "Go To" material.

For certain you will not find any flexible, Cloth-like material that size without it coming with multiple seams. But with Drywall, a precisely suitable coating can be applied, ideal for your PJ's output and viewing conditions.

So...give up some more info and let's make the biggest "Indoor" Theater Screen in AVS History a reality.

"Biggest indoor screen in AVS history"... For real? Don't tell the wife that!

Everything is still in the very early planning stages. I want to make sure this is all feasible before I start knocking down walls. As for the projector, I've had a few suggestions here (see link below).

You might recall helping me a few years back on a proposed 180" screen in a 22x25 room. That project ended up not happening as we soon realized we were going to be moving on to bigger and better things smile.gif.

This time round I have an entire 30x40 out building on the property that I can use (insert evil laugh).

I will do some searching on the Sintra...


http://www.avsforum.com/t/1454635/uber-light-cannon-for-250-280-scope-screen
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post #4 of 22
1/31/13 at 8:30pm
Actually, hauling back a bit, there is a source for extra wide Blackout Cloth. Something along the lines of 110" x 275"

I'll look and get back to you soon.
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post #5 of 22
1/31/13 at 9:28pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks MM - check your PM's
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post #6 of 22
2/1/13 at 10:07am
Rosebrand BOC...the least expensive way to go to acheive a screen as large as you envision......by far.

http://www.rosebrand.com/product34/Blackout-Lining-FR.aspx?tid=7

You recent upstarts looking to do such humongous screens are giving me an inferiority complex.
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post #7 of 22
2/1/13 at 10:24am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Rosebrand BOC...the least expensive way to go to acheive a screen as large as you envision......by far.

http://www.rosebrand.com/product34/Blackout-Lining-FR.aspx?tid=7

You recent upstarts looking to do such humongous screens are giving me an inferiority complex.

Thanks, that stuff is cheap as dirt. A screen that size will be something to behold, **if** I can pull it off. The big motivation for using the out building is that it's separate from the house. We won't have to worry about waking the kids up or spending big $$ to soundproof the room.

It became apparent in our last house that kids and reference level audio don't mix biggrin.gif. Especially now that they are old enough to pick up the naughty words.


Thanks again for the help!
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post #8 of 22
2/1/13 at 10:55am
Painting a more reflective surface onto a BOC surface that size would be ideal............and quite a project. I do have some ideas along that line, so if this becomes a serious endeavor, I'm game.
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post #9 of 22
2/1/13 at 5:58pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Painting a more reflective surface onto a BOC surface that size would be ideal............and quite a project. I do have some ideas along that line, so if this becomes a serious endeavor, I'm game.

First steps will be building the subs and surround (One side of the building is currently an empty double garage, perfect indoor space for building and painting over winter). Then I'll do the room treatments and then I guess the screen. The speakers, subs and screen will all need paint, so I'll spray them all together. Hopefully the screen part will become serious before 2014.

We have a very dry environment up here vs Mississippi. Not sure if that makes things harder or easier when it come to paint, but things sure dry out fast lol.
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post #10 of 22
2/2/13 at 4:43am
Warm & Dry is always best. To that effect I usually either run the heat up in a room to approx 80 degrees, then turn it off when spraying and for the first 10 minutes afterward, Or...I use a itty bitty 50-60-85,000 BTU Propane Bullet heater and bake out the room surface, get everything really toasty warm (85-90 degrees) spray, the after the Screen surface has dried to a point where it has lost all sheen, I turn the heater on again for 10 minutes. After all that, I can usually put another coat on in just under 30 minutes. cool.gif

On a whopper screen like yours, multiple fans used in a static, warm, Dry, dust free (as possible) environment would be best. Painting such a bugger would entail first priming the surface, sanding, re-priming again, lightly sanding again, then starting your spraying. Don't forget the Bucket Truck. tongue.gif

A valuable tool to have handy is a case of "Liquid Wrench". My current preference is Guinness Black Lager. cool.gif
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post #11 of 22
2/2/13 at 4:40pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Warm & Dry is always best. To that effect I usually either run the heat up in a room to approx 80 degrees, then turn it off when spraying and for the first 10 minutes afterward, Or...I use a itty bitty 50-60-85,000 BTU Propane Bullet heater and bake out the room surface, get everything really toasty warm (85-90 degrees) spray, the after the Screen surface has dried to a point where it has lost all sheen, I turn the heater on again for 10 minutes. After all that, I can usually put another coat on in just under 30 minutes. cool.gif

On a whopper screen like yours, multiple fans used in a static, warm, Dry, dust free (as possible) environment would be best. Painting such a bugger would entail first priming the surface, sanding, re-priming again, lightly sanding again, then starting your spraying. Don't forget the Bucket Truck. tongue.gif

A valuable tool to have handy is a case of "Liquid Wrench". My current preference is Guinness Black Lager. cool.gif

Guinness, paint fumes and a cherry picker. Things are getting interesting biggrin.gif

I'll be sure to keep this thread updated when the time comes.
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post #12 of 22
2/3/13 at 1:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve71 View Post

Thanks, that stuff is cheap as dirt. A screen that size will be something to behold, **if** I can pull it off. The big motivation for using the out building is that it's separate from the house. We won't have to worry about waking the kids up or spending big $$ to soundproof the room.

It became apparent in our last house that kids and reference level audio don't mix biggrin.gif. Especially now that they are old enough to pick up the naughty words.


Thanks again for the help!

FWIW, if your have neighbors (don't know if you do up there in God's country) an outbuilding doesn't guarantee the bass won't carry. I have an infinite baffle array in one theater and a plain ole 12" sealed in another and the neighbors 1/4 mile away complain that it sounds like a storm thundering when we watch movies. I am not going to turn it down for them even though my wife would like for me to!
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post #13 of 22
2/3/13 at 1:48pm
you can get Seymour Centerstage XD screen in 98 inch widths.
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post #14 of 22
2/3/13 at 1:49pm
you could build the curved screen if you like easily with the XD material, I did.
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post #15 of 22
2/3/13 at 1:51pm
you could go 19 1/2 feet wide with the Seymour
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post #16 of 22
2/3/13 at 3:00pm
Hey Ed, That makes 3 referrals to a Mfg Screen material in under 4 minutes. biggrin.gif

But here on DIY Screens we don't refer people to consider such dedicated Mfg Screen Products on DIY Screens. Instead we take pride in using less expensive but wholly suitable substitutes.

From one Hoosier to another, thank you for your Cooperation. cool.gif
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post #17 of 22
2/3/13 at 3:31pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by edfowler View Post

FWIW, if your have neighbors (don't know if you do up there in God's country) an outbuilding doesn't guarantee the bass won't carry. I have an infinite baffle array in one theater and a plain ole 12" sealed in another and the neighbors 1/4 mile away complain that it sounds like a storm thundering when we watch movies. I am not going to turn it down for them even though my wife would like for me to!

We do have neighbors but most of the houses up here are vacation properties and we have the place to ourselves most of the time. Our nearest full time neighbor is about 1/2 a mile away. The sound does carry especially if the wind is blowing just right.

I'd love to do a acoustically transparent screen so I could have a center channel, but I think I'm going to need all the gain I can get to light up a 250"+ screen.
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post #18 of 22
2/3/13 at 8:00pm
If you aren't going to use Seymour Centerstage XD for an acoustically transparent screen I guess a lot of people LOVE their Da-Lite HiPower screens. With the speakers you are building and the size of your theater you should be fine. Greg1292 runs/ran a phantom center speaker and I could not believe there was no speaker right there in the middle when I heard it.
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post #19 of 22
2/6/13 at 4:57am
Canvas comes in a variety of weights and on rolls up to 12 feet wide. The material is very smooth and takes paint well. Part of the reason artist have been using it for centuries. My finding is it shrinks as the paint dries and makes a tight screen even tighter.

That big of a screen in an out building should be made with provisions to retighten the fabric or made to a design that is self-tensioning.
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post #20 of 22
2/6/13 at 11:02am
Grommet and O-rings make a nice self tensioning screen
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post #21 of 22
2/6/13 at 11:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by edfowler View Post

Grommet and O-rings make a nice self tensioning screen

Yes they do or bungees. That method has everything outside the screen area though. I have seen screens that tension from the inside out.
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post #22 of 22
2/7/13 at 9:55pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks for input guys. lots of info to absorb and obsess over. smile.gif
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