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New construction wiring help

post #1 of 79
1/31/13 at 11:23pm
Thread Starter 
First of all, I want to thank everyone who always reply here and offering great suggestions to people like me. smile.gif
I am add an addition to my old house and remodeling the old rooms now. By reading some other posts here, I believe my project should be considerably easier. rolleyes.gif

My house has only one floor, no basement and 2nd floor. My goal is simple too.
I have a small closet to store all my equipment.
I will have following zones:
1. Kitchen - Audio (Potentially a video zone in the future) (in-ceiling speakers)
2. Living room - Audio and video (in-ceiling speakers)
3. Entertaining room - Video zone and surround sound.
4. Kids playing room - audio and video (in-ceiling speakers)
5. Master bedroom - audio and video (in-ceiling speakers)
6. Master bath - audio and video (in-ceiling speakers)
7. guest bedroom 1 - audio and video (in-ceiling speakers)
8. guest bedroom 2 - audio and video (in-ceiling speakers)
9. Office - audio and video (in-ceiling speakers)

My input source will be followings:
1. Cable TV
2. Apple TV
3. PC
4. Blue-ray player.

I want to focusing on wiring for now and worry about the equipment later. Since my house's electricity is almost done. And will close the wall pretty soon.
I want to finish the wiring before the walls are closed.

Any suggestion on how to wire ? Should I use CAT6 for all the video and 14awg for all audio?

I am really really new to this, but I still want to give DIY a try. Since I dont really have the budget to hire an installer.

Thanks a lot
Jun biggrin.gif
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Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #2 of 79
2/1/13 at 7:07am
Quote:
Any suggestion on how to wire ? Should I use CAT6 for all the video and 14awg for all audio?

That will work, but run a few Cat cables to each location. You can never have too much Cat cable.

Quote:
Since I dont really have the budget to hire an installer

This is not a cheap endeavor. You've listed 9 rooms of audio. You can get a 12 zone system which will allow each room to play its own music at its own volume. Or you can reduce it to a 6 zone system and throw in some impedence matching on wall volume controls. So, for example, master bed and bath will have to play the same music, but at least you can individually control the volume.

Also, you're looking at a 4x8 matrix. Those aren't cheap. And you'll need the baluns for the HD over Cat runs. Those can each cost a couple hundred.

Quote:
Entertaining room - Video zone and surround sound.

You'll need an AVR for this. You'll then take one of the WHA zone outs and plug it into the AVR in, thus adding this room to the WHA setup.
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post #3 of 79
2/1/13 at 11:02am
Thread Starter 
Gramin:

Thank you so much for your reply! That is a great start.
I think now I am sold on running 1 1/4" pipes through me house before we close the walls. I will run 2 CAT6 and 1 HDMI to each video location to save money on HDMI over CAT.
In my AV server room where all the pipes get together. What is the best way to organize them? Do you normally run each pipe to a wall plate like this:


Or run all the pipe together to a big box on the wall like this?


Or there is a better, neater way to do it?

And I am ready to buy cables now. Do you think monoprice cable is good enough? Their price is great! biggrin.gif
Is their CAT6 cables shielded?
http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10234

Thanks

Jun
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post #4 of 79
2/1/13 at 11:17am
There's a lot of your questions answered quite frequently in this forum - read any number of the similar threads for a lot of details...

Don't use shielded cat6 cable. Regular cat6 is better for our applications, and yes, Monoprice cables are fine.

Jeff
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post #5 of 79
2/1/13 at 11:21am
Either way will work for the pipe, though I would normally just run them to a big box on the wal. I'm not a big fan of individual face plates.

And for your HDMI, do you have any runs over 35 feet? If so, you might want to use HD over Cat for those runs. Just in case you don't know this, you want to buy the bulk Cat cable (e.g. the 1000 ft reel) and then terminate it as needed.
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post #6 of 79
2/1/13 at 11:32am
Thread Starter 
I also bought some RCA 14AWG audio cable here.
http://www.amazon.com/AH14100SR-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-feet/dp/B002HPNDDW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1359747118&sr=8-2&keywords=rca+14awg++audio+cable

What do you guys think? Should I change to something else? Or this should be good enough?
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post #7 of 79
2/1/13 at 11:46am
Thread Starter 
Thank you so much Jeff!
I was hoping that you can reply my post, what a honor! smile.gif
Yes, I understand that if I read more posts, I may find all my answers. But I didn't start thinking about doing this early enough. And we will start closing the walls on Tuesday. So I dont really have too much time left.
That's why I posted here and hoping great guys like you and Gramin can help me walk through this.
So here is my plan for wiring:
1. Using RCA AH14100 speaker wire for all ceiling speakers.
2. Running 1 1/4" PVC pipes for all my videos.
3. For distance that is less than 35', I will run 2 CAT6 and 1 HDMI. For distance that is longer than 35', I will run 3 CAT6.
4. I will buy Monoprice CAT6 cables here. (Right choice?)
http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10234
5. I will get this 35' HDMI cable here: (Are they any good? has one bad review. eek.gif )
http://www.amazon.com/Aurum-Ultra-Ethernet-Certified-Supports/dp/B006OCW47U/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1359747548&sr=1-2&keywords=35%27+hdmi+cable
6. I will run the pipes into a big box in my server room. Any suggestion where I can find a box for this?

Thank all of you for the help so far!

Jun
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post #8 of 79
2/1/13 at 12:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ildo View Post

I also bought some RCA 14AWG audio cable here.
http://www.amazon.com/AH14100SR-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-feet/dp/B002HPNDDW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1359747118&sr=8-2&keywords=rca+14awg++audio+cable

What do you guys think? Should I change to something else? Or this should be good enough?

That's not in-wall rated cable. Use the stuff from Monoprice, which is essentially the same price. Running 4-conductor cables from the home run to the keypad location can be easier, too.

Jeff
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post #9 of 79
2/1/13 at 12:16pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

That's not in-wall rated cable. Use the stuff from Monoprice, which is essentially the same price. Running 4-conductor cables from the home run to the keypad location can be easier, too.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff! I was thinking about just leave the wires in the attic. eek.gif What I was thinking!

So how about this wire?
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023902&p_id=3845&seq=1&format=2

Should I use 12AWG?


For wiring the in-ceiling speakers. Probably I dont need to use pipes,right?

Thanks again

Jun
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post #10 of 79
2/1/13 at 2:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ildo View Post

But I didn't start thinking about doing this early enough. And we will start closing the walls on Tuesday. So I dont really have too much time left.

If they're "staring" to close the walls on Tuesday, you know they may be finished by Wednesday or Thursday, right? You're going to get to know the FedEx guy if you haven't got this stuff on-hand already.
Quote:
3. For distance that is less than 35', I will run 2 CAT6 and 1 HDMI. For distance that is longer than 35', I will run 3 CAT6.

I'm with Gramin on this - I wouldn't run any in-wall HDMI for any zone. I'd only do it for an AVR-to-Projector run in the same room. Reason is that even at 35' they can be problematic, but more importantly, it makes it more difficult to build a matrix solution when you have a mix of cat5e for some runs, and HDMI for others. While some matrix switches offer both HDMI/Cat5e outputs, those tend to be the more expensive variety.

And if I was going to run ANY HDMI cable over 20' these days, I'd use one of the Redmere cables - just make sure it's installed the correct direction.
Quote:
6. I will run the pipes into a big box in my server room. Any suggestion where I can find a box for this?

One or more of the structured wiring boxes would do, too. The box or a bunch of wallplates - they're both going to get equally messy over the years.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ildo View Post

So how about this wire?
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023902&p_id=3845&seq=1&format=2
Should I use 12AWG? For wiring the in-ceiling speakers. Probably I dont need to use pipes,right?

That will be fine. You can use the 4-conductor variety for the home run-to-keypad portion, which will be easier to deal with at your server room (and slightly cheaper depending on the spool count). Don't forget the cat5e to the keypad locations as well.

Jeff
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post #11 of 79
2/1/13 at 4:14pm
Thread Starter 
Jeff:

Once again, thank you so much for your great advise. I haven't ordered any wires yet. I think the worse case is I will have to delay closing the walls.

Do you mean that you prefer run only CAT cables to each video location in wall? And why is that? I am OK with running CAT cables to each location and use HDMI over CAT if I have to. But I want to learn the reason behind it. smile.gif
Which CAT cable I should run? CAT5e or CAT6e? and why?

For the server room. I am still debating using a wiring box or bunch faceplates. I understand over the years, It will get pretty messy. Is there any better way to do this?

Regarding 4-conductor, I learned something new again! biggrin.gif
If I understand correctly, I need to run 2-conductor from speakers to keypad/volume control. And run 4-conductor from keypad/volume control to my server room. Correct?
Both using 12AWG? or 14AWG will be enough?

One more question:
Why a un-shielded CAT cable is preferred?

Thanks you again!

Jun
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post #12 of 79
2/1/13 at 5:52pm
Make sure you've got 2x RG-6QS everywhere you have CAT-6 as well.
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post #13 of 79
2/1/13 at 7:03pm
Thread Starter 
Thank you BiggAW.
My original plan is having my cable tv signal running into my server room. Then distribute to multiple rooms via CAT cables. Could you tell me why I still need to run RG-6QS?

Thanks so much.

Jun
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post #14 of 79
2/1/13 at 7:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ildo View Post

My original plan is having my cable tv signal running into my server room. Then distribute to multiple rooms via CAT cables. Could you tell me why I still need to run RG-6QS?

Because when it comes to wiring and resale, you don't want to be weird. Video service is delivered over RG6 (you don't necessarily need RG6QS, but that's what gets used a lot), and you don't want to be put into a situation where you HAVE to convert everything and distribute video when some future service made it simple to just plug in the "cable TV outlet" that every single home built in the last 20+ years has - except yours! biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by ildo View Post

Once again, thank you so much for your great advise. I haven't ordered any wires yet. I think the worse case is I will have to delay closing the walls.

Alert them ASAP if you expect to hold them up...
Quote:
Do you mean that you prefer run only CAT cables to each video location in wall? And why is that? I am OK with running CAT cables to each location and use HDMI over CAT if I have to. But I want to learn the reason behind it. smile.gif

Because HDMI is likely to have a much shorter lifespan than category cable, and if we're trading costs, I'll take a whole bunch of category, as it can be used for lots of stuff. HDMI cables can only be used for HDMI. Those are also more easily damaged (the connectors) and can't be repaired. And for consistency for matrix switch outputs I mentioned...
Quote:
Which CAT cable I should run? CAT5e or CAT6e? and why?

Cat6 is "better", and 10 years from now may be more useful, but I doubt it. There's so much cat5e installed that everyone will try to make their future products work with it (and not require cat6). But, the cost difference is small now, so cat6 is the safer future-resistant cable. If anything, a mix of some cat6 and a lot of cat5e isn't a bad solution, either.
Quote:
For the server room. I am still debating using a wiring box or bunch faceplates. I understand over the years, It will get pretty messy. Is there any better way to do this?

Not really for "residential scale"...
Quote:
Regarding 4-conductor, I learned something new again! biggrin.gif f I understand correctly, I need to run 2-conductor from speakers to keypad/volume control. And run 4-conductor from keypad/volume control to my server room. Correct? Both using 12AWG? or 14AWG will be enough?

Yep. 14AWG is fine - most folks run 16AWG for whole-house audio. The costs start to add up...
Quote:
Why a un-shielded CAT cable is preferred?

Because almost everything we'll use in our homes was designed for unshielded category cable. Shielded cable changes the characteristics, and not necessarily for the better in some ways. It's expensive, hard to work with, and just not necessary.

Jeff
Edited by jautor - 2/1/13 at 9:12pm
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post #15 of 79
2/1/13 at 8:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ildo View Post

Thank you BiggAW.
My original plan is having my cable tv signal running into my server room. Then distribute to multiple rooms via CAT cables. Could you tell me why I still need to run RG-6QS?

Thanks so much.

Jun

Well you need 1x RG-6 just as basic cable/satellite wiring like any house, even those without CAT cable would have. 2x RG-6 gives you flexibility if you want OTA and satellite or satellite and basic cable/internet or something. Not putting cable jacks in every room is a horrible idea. Not only for resale, but for installing whatever comes later. You should have what everyone else has, because that's what is used by cable and satellite providers. As long as you have what they have, you'll be all set, as the next generation of technology will run on it. If you want to let them sit dormant for now, that's fine, but you at least need the capability to get cable or satellite into every room.
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post #16 of 79
2/1/13 at 8:22pm
Satellite is delivered over RG-6, cable over RG-59 or RG-6 (RG-59 is obsolete, but still installed in many places). RG-6QS has better shielding from interference, so you should go with that. Especially if you have a lot of other wiring, which it sounds like you do. RG-6QS, even in an interference-prone environment, can handle any cable, satellite, telcotv or OTA system in the US (or probably anywhere else for that matter).
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post #17 of 79
2/1/13 at 9:41pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks BiggAW. I think I understand now.
But I try to minimize the device in the rooms. I only want a TV in the room. I dont want to have cable TV box or DVD play in the room to take the space.
I can certain run a RG-6QS cable into the rooms. But I dont really need to use it, right? I want to control my TV source from the server room. So I can still view different TV programs in different room at the same time. Right?
If above is correct, How about I just run the conduit first. And if later I want to sell this house and add the selling point, I just fish a RG-6QS cable to each room.
Did I understand correctly?

Jeff:
Thank you very much.
I think I will go with CAT6 cables since the cost difference is not very big. But if I do go with CAT6. Will it have compatible issues with CAT5??

Below is my house drawing. The right side is the new construction that is going on. The left side is the old house. I want to finish the wiring in the new house first. Red dots are in-ceiling speakers. Yellow bars are volume controls. Green bars are TV's.

More questions about the speaker locations.
1. My living room is 23' wide. But my TV location isn't in the middle. Should I put the speakers on the locations shown in the drawing? Which is about even on the two sides of the room? Or I should put them to make the TV in the middle?

2. In the small room right next to Laundry room. I put the speakers in the opposite corner. Should I put them in the middle, one left, one right ?

3. When should I install the speakers in the corner? When should install them on the sides?

4. My server room is 32x48", Will that be too small? Should I consider move it to my garage maybe?

5. When I run the conduits, I can just run them on the attic, then into the walls. Correct?

Thank you all again for the great help and patience.
I had no idea what I should do last night. Now I see my plan is coming together! cool.gif

Jun
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post #18 of 79
2/1/13 at 10:42pm
Thread Starter 
I also just realized that actually you guys are suggesting running all those wires with an EMPTY conduit to my video locations. The pre-wiring will be outside the conduit. The conduit is just for future use.
Is that right?

Jun
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post #19 of 79
2/2/13 at 4:52am
Yes, the conduit is for future use. Don't fill it up now. Make sure the conduits meet fire code.

For the RG-6QS, since you're pre-wiring, run two of them NOW, PLUS the conduit. Conduit is a great idea, but you should wire now so that you're 99.99% sure you'll never use it, and you can only be 50% sure if you don't run RG-6QS. You don't know what will come down the line for provider STBs, which all run off of RG-6, and what interfaces they will and won't support, if they will be centrally rackable, etc. Modern houses, even those that aren't pre-wired with CAT cable are usually running RG-6 to each room now for cable/satellite, so that they don't have to go wrapping it on the outside later like older houses have. You want to at least be at the basic level (RG-6 in each room) before you THINK about pre-wired CAT cable. Once you go with more than one pre-wired CAT cable in a room, you've pretty much committed yourself to 2x RG-6QS. Phone wiring doesn't really matter anymore, since those few that still have landlines just use DECT phones anyways, and CAT cable set up for Ethernet can be converted over by plugging a phone into it.
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post #20 of 79
2/2/13 at 7:30am
Thread Starter 
OK, More should be safer. smile.gif

How about I run: 2x CAT5e, 2x CAT6, 2x RG-6QS and an empty conduit ?
Should I also wire to the location that I may use in the future? In case I want to move my furniture ?

Thanks
Jun
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post #21 of 79
2/2/13 at 9:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ildo View Post

OK, More should be safer. smile.gif

There you go... biggrin.gif
Quote:
How about I run: 2x CAT5e, 2x CAT6, 2x RG-6QS and an empty conduit ?
Should I also wire to the location that I may use in the future? In case I want to move my furniture ?

Yes, multiple locations within a room (usually bedrooms, and some family room layouts), where the display / furniture locations are more likely to change. You might do less cables to those locations, but at least one RG6 and cat5e/cat6 would be good. In most of my bedrooms, I could choose a display location (and I pre-wired for all of them to be wall-mounted), so that's the only location I ran RG6. But there was at least one, sometimes two, other locations in the room that I ran at least one cat5e. Rule of thumb: Look around the room and anywhere there can be a piece of furniture, make sure you can reach a cat5e location without crossing a door frame. That way you can plug in any device sitting anywhere in the room without a cable running across a door (well, tacked around the frame or whatever, but you get the point). In most bedrooms, that means at least two drops.

Jeff
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post #22 of 79
2/2/13 at 10:20am
Thread Starter 
Thank you again Jeff.

I am making my shopping list right now. Should I consider using combo cables which CAT and RG-6 are wrapped together? Or separate one just fine?

Could you also please kindly check my previous questions regarding the in-ceiling speaker locations?
Should I worry too much?

Thanks
Jun
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post #23 of 79
2/2/13 at 11:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ildo View Post

I can certain run a RG-6QS cable into the rooms. But I dont really need to use it, right?

Correct, you don't have to use it, but you want it there in case you want to later...
Quote:
I want to control my TV source from the server room. So I can still view different TV programs in different room at the same time. Right?

You'll need multiple set-top boxes to watch different shows in different rooms. It doesn't matter if those set-top boxes are in the rooms or centralized.
Quote:
If above is correct, How about I just run the conduit first. And if later I want to sell this house and add the selling point, I just fish a RG-6QS cable to each room.

Because it will be much simpler just to run the cable now. Fishing cable for resale isn't on anyone's list of fun tasks, even if the conduits were in place.
Quote:
I think I will go with CAT6 cables since the cost difference is not very big. But if I do go with CAT6. Will it have compatible issues with CAT5??

No, cat6 is just a better version of cat5e. It is a bit more difficult to work with...
Quote:
1. My living room is 23' wide. But my TV location isn't in the middle. Should I put the speakers on the locations shown in the drawing? Which is about even on the two sides of the room? Or I should put them to make the TV in the middle?

Are those in-ceiling speaker for TV audio, surround sound, or just whole-house music? That will dictate the placement...
Quote:
2. In the small room right next to Laundry room. I put the speakers in the opposite corner. Should I put them in the middle, one left, one right ?

Yes, unless there's no clue as to how the room will be used, I'd put the speakers in the middle of the room, roughly dividing the room into thirds.
Quote:
3. When should I install the speakers in the corner? When should install them on the sides?

I don't think they should ever be in the corners, personally. Center of the room, 4-6' apart along the long axis of the room. In my bedrooms where there's a TV mounted on the wall (or expected to be), I placed the speakers so that they would be correct for surround sound (and get double duty as whole house audio speakers).
Quote:
4. My server room is 32x48", Will that be too small? Should I consider move it to my garage maybe?

Make sure you plan for venting - both air in and fans to get the hot air out of the closet. Size sounds fine, as long as you can get around to the back of your rack.
Quote:
5. When I run the conduits, I can just run them on the attic, then into the walls. Correct?

Yes, you just need them to be accessible at both ends. Many of mine terminate within reach in the attic - it's just a pathway to get down the wall.

Jeff
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post #24 of 79
2/2/13 at 8:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ildo View Post

OK, More should be safer. smile.gif

How about I run: 2x CAT5e, 2x CAT6, 2x RG-6QS and an empty conduit ?
Should I also wire to the location that I may use in the future? In case I want to move my furniture ?

Thanks
Jun

You're getting the hang of it. But do all CAT-6. It's not much more than 5e, and it's easier just to run everything as 6. 5/5e/whatever you found in the junk bin is fine for patch cables, since nothing out there now in a residential application needs anything more than 5/5e, and a slightly out of spec patch cable doesn't matter anyways (not that I recommend it, but I have run Ethernet through a phone wire before). You can always just plug in new patch cables down the line if you need them.

YES, run lines to both sides of bedrooms if they have multiple areas where you couldn't easily get wire in by just running it around the baseboard.
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post #25 of 79
2/2/13 at 11:56pm
Thread Starter 
Thank you all again for the comments. Really appreciated.
I talked to an installer today regarding pre-wiring. He is with you guys that wiring extra cables for future.
But one thing he brought up is that I may not need to wire into the walls between the rooms. Since those walls will not be filled. So it will be pretty easy to drop wires down in the future if really needed.
He suggests only wire to the external walls.

What you guys' thoughts on that?

Jun
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post #26 of 79
2/3/13 at 7:04am
Cabling after the walls are up and you are all moved in is just a major a pain. If you wait 'til after the walls are up, you're going to have to do a bunch of measuring, and cutting, and climbing in and out of the attic, getting attic insulation all over the carpet, having to deal with the insulation that is up in the attic (breathing it and moving it around), trying to figure out where you need to drill that hole (you will be a stud off), creating a mess in the room(s) you are having to deal with, and the list does go on. Furniture will be in the way, and you're gonna want to shoot the guy that suggested that you wait until after you have moved in and decided just what you want to do.
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post #27 of 79
2/3/13 at 7:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by egnlsn View Post

Cabling after the walls are up and you are all moved in is just a major a pain. If you wait 'til after the walls are up, you're going to have to do a bunch of measuring, and cutting, and climbing in and out of the attic, getting attic insulation all over the carpet, having to deal with the insulation that is up in the attic (breathing it and moving it around), trying to figure out where you need to drill that hole (you will be a stud off), creating a mess in the room(s) you are having to deal with, and the list does go on. Furniture will be in the way, and you're gonna want to shoot the guy that suggested that you wait until after you have moved in and decided just what you want to do.

+15.

The installer is correct, and that's what I tell folks that are doing new construction with tract home builders, where they won't allow any DIY and they charge $125 for every extra wire drop. Concentrate on the areas that will be difficult or impossible to fish to later first. Which means middle floors (where there's finished or no access above and below) and exterior walls.

But, if at all possible (budget and otherwise), run as much cable as you can. As egnlsn said, even "simple" runs can end up being difficult, and it's almost always a pain. In my own house, where I did have access and got a great deal on labor to do a lot of wiring, I didn't bother pre-wring whole house audio speakers in the upstairs bedrooms - because I could do it later. Well, "later", it took me all darn day (and I waited until the Houston winter to avoid the attic heat), cursing myself the entire time for not paying the <$100 it would have cost me during the build to have these few more runs added... And I knew exactly where everything was, had full pictures of the structure, and it was still a PITA!

If there's a budget tradeoff to be made, the other consideration is that having less wiring in more LOCATIONS is probably better than more wiring in FEWER locations. If you only have 1 cat5e to a location, you can use a more-expensive HDMI extender (instead of the cheaper, 2-cat5e models). But no cables, and well, you're stuck...

One other tip - if the builder will allow you to DIY some more cables, make their guys do all the hard drops, and spread them out. It's much easier to add a cable or two to an already run location (the holes drilled are usually big enough), and since it's all flat-fee stuff - make them do the long runs through multiple stories, and save the easy ones for the DIY.

And remember to always have that DIY conversation with the project manager, not the sales guy.

Jeff
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post #28 of 79
2/3/13 at 9:59am
My parents' house wasn't wired for Ethernet back in '99, and it doesn't have enough cable jacks. We added a few Ethernet runs and a cable run (that ended up being too long for reliable digital service and is now abandoned), but it was a significant effort to drop to interior walls and run hundreds of feet of cable, so there's now three rooms have that Ethernet, and beyond that, it's branched off through a couple of switches, with wires running along baseboards, through a closet, and behind furniture. It's a lot better than Wifi, but at this point, even though it is theoretically possible to drop through interior walls, nothing more has gotten done, since no one wants to crawl around in the attic and actually do the drops. Just do it right in the first place, and you'll have what you need for the future.
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post #29 of 79
2/3/13 at 4:55pm
I enjoy working in my attic, running new cables.

But only in the winter; I hate wasps.
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post #30 of 79
2/3/13 at 8:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

I enjoy working in my attic, running new cables.

You might want to run a scan on yourself and ask one of your colleagues to take a look at it.

eek.gifbiggrin.gif
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