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New construction wiring help - Page 2

post #31 of 79
Thread Starter 
Thank you all.
The inspector is at my house now. So I need to start the wiring asap. eek.gif

I was going to buy the CAT6 cables from Monoprice. Like this one:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10234&cs_id=1023402&p_id=8599&seq=1&format=2

But yesterday I saw HomeDepot has CE Tech 1000ft CAT6 riser cable for only $99.
Can I use riser cable in wall? and how good is this cable?


I also found this cable on HD website for only $64.88
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202529843/5yc1v?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=cAT6+riser&storeId=10051&N=25ecodZ5yc1v&R=202529843#.URAHB6UcHjI
And funny thing is the 500ft is more expensive
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202206484/5yc1v?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=cAT6+riser&storeId=10051&N=25ecodZ5yc1v&R=202206484#.URAHBaUcHjI

And I can't tell the difference between these two.

For speaker cable. I will either get this from Monoprice:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023902&p_id=3845&seq=1&format=2

Or pick up this one from HD if I can't really wait.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202316387/5yc1v?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=speaker+cable&storeId=10051&N=25ecodZ5yc1v&R=202316387#.URAHgqUcHjI
I saw HD also have a yellow version:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202316583/5yc1v?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=speaker+cable&storeId=10051&N=25ecodZ5yc1v&R=202316583#.URAHnqUcHjI
Yellow version is $20 more. But I can't tell the difference between them. eek.gif
And seems they dont have14/4. frown.gif

Which cables should I get?

Thanks a lot.
Jun
post #32 of 79
Several of those cat6 HD spools you linked to are STRANDED cable (not solid), which is not what you want. Riser cable should be "better" than in-wall rated, although their product descriptions say "in wall: no", which is probably a mistake...

The speaker wires listed are all the same as far as you're concerned. It appears the yellow one may have some additional certifications above what you'd need. So unless you like the yellow color, save the $20... biggrin.gif
post #33 of 79
Thread Starter 
Thank you so much Jeff.

Looks like I should get solid STP CAT cable? Is that right? But why is that? I like to learn new stuffs. rolleyes.gif

Seems Monoprice's price is not the best.
This one from MP is $149
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10234&cs_id=1023404&p_id=8093&seq=1&format=3#specification

This one from HD is $149 too
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202316391/5yc1v?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=cAT6+riser+solid&storeId=10051&N=25ecodZ5yc1v&R=202316391#.URAeVaUcHjI

The CE Tech 1000ft $99 box from HD seems like UTP. Should I still get it? Or better go with STP solid ?

One more question regarding RG-6. The only time I will use it is for cable or satellite TV or camera, right? For locations that I know will only have TV not camera in the future. I really just need to run 1 cable over. Not need 2 cables. Am I correct?

Thank you again for all those great advises I got from all of you guys. I can't appreciate it enough.

Jun
post #34 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by ildo View Post

Looks like I should get solid STP CAT cable? Is that right? But why is that? I like to learn new stuffs. rolleyes.gif

You want unshielded (UTP), solid cable. Solid cable is meant to be punched down into connecting blocks and keystone jacks. Stranded cable is more flexible (used for patch cords), but isn't recommended (and a pain in the butt) for punch-down connections.

Sheilded cable is overkill for residential use and can create problems as most of the devices we use weren't built for it (and certainly weren't tested with it!).
Quote:
One more question regarding RG-6. The only time I will use it is for cable or satellite TV or camera, right? For locations that I know will only have TV not camera in the future. I really just need to run 1 cable over. Not need 2 cables. Am I correct?

Two RG6 cables has been the recommendation for a number of years due to the mixture of cable/sat and OTA usage, as well as the two-cable-DVR requirements. Many of these use cases are no longer needed, but the cable is still useful for a number of other purposes. So one is a definite, I'd still recommend running at least two RG6 cables to at least your "primary" display locations. And then run enough to consume the rest of your spool... biggrin.gif

Jeff
post #35 of 79
Thread Starter 
Hi, Master Jeff:

It all makes sense to me now. Thank you so much for explanation! smile.gif
If what you recommend for CAT6 is solid UTP. Then I think the $99 1000ft box from HD is a good deal. Don't you think so?

Also after little bit more research, I found a local cable shop. Looks like they do have good selection with good price and stock! I will go to check it out today after work.
They have CAT6 solid UTP for $140. cheaper than Monoprice.
http://www.hometech.com/hts/products/phone_data/bulk_cable/ht-cat6.html

Their 14/2 speaker cable is $142.75 for 500ft.
http://www.hometech.com/hts/products/audio/bulk_cable/speaker_level/gc-1425c.html
14/4 is $274.95 for 500ft.
http://www.hometech.com/hts/products/audio/bulk_cable/speaker_level/gc-1445c.html

BTW:
What do you guys think about the combo cables?
Does it worth the extra dollars to have 2 CATs and 2 RG-6 cables in one tube?
They have those:
http://www.hometech.com/hts/products/wiring/wire_cable/combo_cable/

Thanks

Jun
post #36 of 79
Thread Starter 
Guys:

I plan to start wiring tomorrow. Very excited and nervous. smile.gif First time doing this.
Here is my detail plan. Please help me to check if they look right or now?
1. I will install a 42" enclosure in my server room's right side wall.
Something like this or similar:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202518654/5yc1v?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=leviton+42%22+enclosure&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=202518654#.URBJ-KUcHjI
All RG-6QS and DATA CAT6 cables will go into this box.

2. All speaker wires, HDMI and CAT for video wires will go to the inside wall of the server room. Where I will build a shelf or install a rack to put all my future equipment.

3. All potential video location will have 4 CAT6 and 2 RG-6QS. I will only use one HDMI cable for my future projector. Since the distance is less than 35ft.

4. For all my in-ceiling and in-wall speakers. If 2 locations are close enough (Say 3-4 ft apart) Then I will run 14/4 and split at the end. For those pair of speakers are too far away. I will just run 14/2.

5. Each audio zone will have it's volume control knob or keypad. So I will run 14/2 or 14/4 from speakers to keypad. Then from keypad location run 14/4 to the server room.

6. Each bedroom, bathroom, kid's play room and garage has a pair of in-ceiling speakers with it's own volume control. Living room and kitchen is one zone controlled by one keypad.

7. 2 pairs of speakers outdoor. Controlled by same knob.

Did I miss anything?

Thank again all ! biggrin.gif

Jun
post #37 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

You want unshielded (UTP), solid cable. Solid cable is meant to be punched down into connecting blocks and keystone jacks. Stranded cable is more flexible (used for patch cords), but isn't recommended (and a pain in the butt) for punch-down connections.

Sheilded cable is overkill for residential use and can create problems as most of the devices we use weren't built for it (and certainly weren't tested with it!).
Two RG6 cables has been the recommendation for a number of years due to the mixture of cable/sat and OTA usage, as well as the two-cable-DVR requirements. Many of these use cases are no longer needed, but the cable is still useful for a number of other purposes. So one is a definite, I'd still recommend running at least two RG6 cables to at least your "primary" display locations. And then run enough to consume the rest of your spool... biggrin.gif

Jeff

Yup. Solid can be used for patch cables, but they sort of suck. I have a few, and they have all sorts of weird kinks in them. Solid also helps when fishing through a hole or wall, although the OP shouldn't need to do that anyways.

I'd home run the speakers. Any sort of split buried in a wall just always makes me nervous. Heard too many horror stories about those. Run a couple of CAT-5 to the projector along with the HDMI. It's a little cleaner to just use something like this, and then run ANOTHER 2 or more CAT cables:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011012&p_id=8121&seq=1&format=2
post #38 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by ildo View Post

If what you recommend for CAT6 is solid UTP. Then I think the $99 1000ft box from HD is a good deal. Don't you think so?

Appears to be, but I can tell you anything about that brand specifically. Some stuff is "cheap" and hard(er) to work with, but the price is right...
Quote:
Also after little bit more research, I found a local cable shop. Looks like they do have good selection with good price and stock! I will go to check it out today after work.
They have CAT6 solid UTP for $140. cheaper than Monoprice.
http://www.hometech.com/hts/products/phone_data/bulk_cable/ht-cat6.html

If you're near HomeTech, yeah do that. I've bought gear from them non-local, they're a good shop. Are you comparing Monoprice pricing with shipping? Because the cat6 spools are like $105 right now (before shipping).
Quote:
What do you guys think about the combo cables?

Hate'em. Personal opinion. Too hard to work with, and unless that's exactly the runs you'll use, you either waste a lot or still have to pull multiple cables...
Quote:
Does it worth the extra dollars to have 2 CATs and 2 RG-6 cables in one tube?

Not in my book. But you'll want to have multiple spools of whatever you're running, so that you can pull all of them at the same time, otherwise you'll be back and forth a lot. Build or buy a spool rack for the coax, though, and it goes so much easier if you have someone helping you.

Jeff
post #39 of 79
r.e. CAT6 - remember that Category 6 standard is not simply a wire construction detail. It also includes a specific connector and rules for how you terminate the cables. Remember to buy CAT6 jacks, and read a bit on how to terminate if you want to get the right performance out of your installation. It is not hard, just finicky.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sw1XRffMry0
post #40 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by archbid View Post

r.e. CAT6 - remember that Category 6 standard is not simply a wire construction detail. It also includes a specific connector and rules for how you terminate the cables. Remember to buy CAT6 jacks, and read a bit on how to terminate if you want to get the right performance out of your installation. It is not hard, just finicky.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sw1XRffMry0

Correct. Terminate as 6, and then use 5/5e patch cables to the switch. That way, if anything ever needs CAT 6, you can upgrade the patch cables.
post #41 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by BiggAW View Post

I'd home run the speakers. Any sort of split buried in a wall just always makes me nervous. Heard too many horror stories about those.

Agreed - splices should never be buried in the walls. The normal suggested implementation of the CEA whole house audio wiring standards is to home run a 4-conductor cable (to make things easier and cleaner) to the keypad location, then 2x 2-conductors to the speakers. But if you're not going to expose the keypad location with a box (burying the cables due to no immediate plans for keypads or in-room volume controls), then I'd suggest home-running 2x 2-conductor cables that truly loop through the hidden keypad locale.

Jeff
post #42 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

You want unshielded (UTP), solid cable. Solid cable is meant to be punched down into connecting blocks and keystone jacks. Stranded cable is more flexible (used for patch cords), but isn't recommended (and a pain in the butt) for punch-down connections.

Sheilded cable is overkill for residential use and can create problems as most of the devices we use weren't built for it (and certainly weren't tested with it!).
Two RG6 cables has been the recommendation for a number of years due to the mixture of cable/sat and OTA usage, as well as the two-cable-DVR requirements. Many of these use cases are no longer needed, but the cable is still useful for a number of other purposes. So one is a definite, I'd still recommend running at least two RG6 cables to at least your "primary" display locations. And then run enough to consume the rest of your spool... biggrin.gif

Jeff

+1
post #43 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by archbid View Post

+1
+2
post #44 of 79
Thread Starter 
Thank you guys for all the great advise. After two days of climbing up and down, going back and forth and crawling in the attic.
I almost finished my pre-wire. Since the drywall are up. I have no rush any more. I will take my time to finish the rest after I get my energy back! rolleyes.gif

For speakers. I ended up all home runs with 16/4 wires and loop at the keypad locations.

Now the real fun part will begin - setting everything up! eek.gif
I run out of budget. And I do want to have multiple zones. At least for TV now.
Any suggestion that can help me spend less is welcome! smile.gif
I dont have any equipment now. Only a cable TV modem. A wireless router. And a set of 5.1 speakers.
Below is what I currently wired:
1. Living room and Kitchen:
3 pairs of in-ceiling speakers (But may only install 2 pairs to save money now)
1 TV
1 keypad

2. Entertaining room
1 TV
5.1 speakers
1 Projector (may install later once have the budget)

3. Kid's playing room
1 TV
1 pair of in-ceiling speakers
1 keypad
*May not install any at this point

4. Master bedroom
1 TV
1 Pair of in-ceiling speakers
1 keypad

5. Master bathroom
1 TV (May not install at this point)
1 pair of in-ceiling speakers

6. Backyard
2 pairs of outdoor speakers (May not install immediately)
1 Security camera (May not install immediately)
post #45 of 79
Quote:
5. Master bathroom
1 TV (May not install at this point)
1 pair of in-ceiling speakers

Too many speakers (unless your master bath is the size of a bedroom). For bathrooms, 1 speaker in the middle is usually sufficient.


Quote:
And I do want to have multiple zones. At least for TV now.

You have five zones of video, meaning you'd need a 4x8 or 8x8 matrix switch, and those are expensive. You can pick up a 4x4 switch from monoprice for about $300. Since your entertaining room is going to have the 5.1 setup, I'd keep that off the matrix. Get a separate bluray player and cable box for that room. This will also help you avoid some of the issues of lowest common denominator with the matrix switches.
post #46 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gramin View Post

Too many speakers (unless your master bath is the size of a bedroom). For bathrooms, 1 speaker in the middle is usually sufficient.

A new construction master bathroom is probably more than large enough to make use of a pair of speakers. It will depend on the layout and the overall size.
Quote:
You have five zones of video, meaning you'd need a 4x8 or 8x8 matrix switch, and those are expensive. You can pick up a 4x4 switch from monoprice for about $300. Since your entertaining room is going to have the 5.1 setup, I'd keep that off the matrix. Get a separate bluray player and cable box for that room. This will also help you avoid some of the issues of lowest common denominator with the matrix switches.

Well, he's only got four he's using out of the gate, but having a local BD player and dedicated set-top for the primary room is a good idea.
post #47 of 79
Quote:
new construction master bathroom is probably more than large enough to make use of a pair of speakers. It will depend on the layout and the overall size.

Who invited you back here? I didn't ask for your opinions. smile.gif

Agreed. I was going off the layout from Page 1 which looks like Bed 3 is actually the master bedroom? I could be wrong about that though. That bath would be fine with 1 speaker... and if you do go with two, don't stagger them like that. Remember, 1 speaker is the left and 1 speaker is the right.



And yes, only four to start with, but I'd hate for him to have to buy new equipment or rework his setup to accommodate that fifth TV. Might as well plan for it.
post #48 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gramin View Post

Who invited you back here? I didn't ask for your opinions. smile.gif

tongue.gif
Quote:
Agreed. I was going off the layout from Page 1 which looks like Bed 3 is actually the master bedroom? I could be wrong about that though. That bath would be fine with 1 speaker... and if you do go with two, don't stagger them like that. Remember, 1 speaker is the left and 1 speaker is the right.

Ha! I completely forgot about the diagram... Yeah, that's not huge, although placement wise two spaced off either side of the ceiling vent would work well. Agreed that the staggered locations are not optimal...
Quote:
And yes, only four to start with, but I'd hate for him to have to buy new equipment or rework his setup to accommodate that fifth TV. Might as well plan for it.

Well, since the 5th zone would be the bathroom, I'm guessing he might be able to get away with just a feed from a set-top box (remotely) instead of another matrix port. Or split the output of the master bedroom before sending it. And that assume he installs it anytime soon. I wouldn't recommend putting money into a bigger matrix unless it's absolutely necessary (especially for one more port!).

He may find that having audio in the bathroom (why no keypad run there? You'll want that to be a separate zone from the bedroom) is sufficient. I wired for both, but just listen to the news on the whole house audio system. But yes, there's wiring for a TV that would face the tub. biggrin.gif
post #49 of 79
Quote:
But yes, there's wiring for a TV that would face the tub.

An absolute must!! wink.gif
post #50 of 79
Thread Starter 
Thank you guys for all the comments. wink.gif
I did wire a keypad for the master bathroom. And I do plan to set it up as a separate zone. Sorry that I forgot to mention that! Listening to music during morning shower is a must for me! rolleyes.gif
I probably wont install the TV in the bathroom that is facing the tub yet due to the budget though.

I think I have made up my mind. I will go ahead get the 4x4 HDMI matrix. But which should I get?
The True Matrix here:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=5704&seq=1&format=2
Or this one?
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10113&cs_id=1011310&p_id=8151&seq=1&format=2
What's the difference between them?

And I will go with one stereo speaker for small rooms. Like the bathroom and the kid's playing room.
But I seems couldn't find one on Monoprice or I did something wrong.
Could you please help to suggest one?

How about the audio system? How should I set it up? Using NUVO? But it is kind expensive... tongue.gif

Thanks
Jun
post #51 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by ildo View Post

Thank you guys for all the comments. wink.gif
I did wire a keypad for the master bathroom. And I do plan to set it up as a separate zone. Sorry that I forgot to mention that! Listening to music during morning shower is a must for me! rolleyes.gif
I probably wont install the TV in the bathroom that is facing the tub yet due to the budget though.

I think I have made up my mind. I will go ahead get the 4x4 HDMI matrix. But which should I get?
The True Matrix here:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=5704&seq=1&format=2
Or this one?
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10113&cs_id=1011310&p_id=8151&seq=1&format=2
What's the difference between them?

And I will go with one stereo speaker for small rooms. Like the bathroom and the kid's playing room.
But I seems couldn't find one on Monoprice or I did something wrong.
Could you please help to suggest one?

How about the audio system? How should I set it up? Using NUVO? But it is kind expensive... tongue.gif

Thanks
Jun

Those are totally different, considering one is just local, and would require more hardware to send over CAT-5, and the other has all of the CAT-5 gear included if you have enough CAT-5 lines to support it.

Sonos is the best for whole-home audio. It's very flexible, works with any wiring scheme from nothing to a high-end pre-wire, has apps for the popular smartphone platforms, and supports about every audio source out there.
post #52 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by ildo View Post

I did wire a keypad for the master bathroom. And I do plan to set it up as a separate zone. Sorry that I forgot to mention that! Listening to music during morning shower is a must for me! rolleyes.gif
I probably wont install the TV in the bathroom that is facing the tub yet due to the budget though.

Good! I was afraid you had wired the zones inconsistently, which would be a really bad thing...
Quote:
And I will go with one stereo speaker for small rooms. Like the bathroom and the kid's playing room.
But I seems couldn't find one on Monoprice or I did something wrong.
Could you please help to suggest one?

"Dual Voice Coil" (DVC) is the term to look for... Two speakers in one package, again for consistency...

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10837&cs_id=1083702&p_id=4619&seq=1&format=2
Quote:
How about the audio system? How should I set it up? Using NUVO? But it is kind expensive... tongue.gif

Well, we'd really like you to try the new NuVo P3100 system. Someone has to be the guinea pig! biggrin.gif

(which actually would fit pretty well for you as a nice 3-zone start)

Either the NuVo wireless systems or the Sonos products.

Jeff
post #53 of 79
Thread Starter 
Sweet!
I will definitely get a pair of DVC then. One for the bathroom and one for the kid's playing room. smile.gif
Do you think 6.5" DVC will be sufficient?
The bathroom is 15x6'
Kid playing room is 12x9.5'

Let's do some more research on NuVo P3100 and Sonos. I am sure I will have more questions. smile.gif

So for the matrix. Should I just go with the one has 4 receivers already?

thanks
Jun
post #54 of 79
Quote:
Should I just go with the one has 4 receivers already?

Might as well. Note the lowest common denominator issue, so I strongly suggest keeping the entertainment room off of the matrix.

Quote:
Do you think 6.5" DVC will be sufficient?

Yes, it should be. And if not, you can always upgrade to a better speaker, both in terms of quality and size. If you start with 8s, you're kinda stuck going with 8s. Much easier to make the hole bigger.
post #55 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by ildo View Post

Do you think 6.5" DVC will be sufficient? Kid playing room is 12x9.5'

That room is more than big enough to use a normal pair of speakers. A single, centered DVC will likely get in the way of a ceiling light fixture or fan, too.
post #56 of 79
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

That room is more than big enough to use a normal pair of speakers. A single, centered DVC will likely get in the way of a ceiling light fixture or fan, too.

Jeff:

You mean my kid's playing room(12'x9.5') is big enough to install a pair of 6.5" or 8" regular speakers?

For my bathroom (15'x6'), should I get this Polk 6.5' DVC?
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-In-Ceiling-Stereo-Speaker/dp/B0000WWP4M/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_2
But the price I can buy a pair from Monoprice. How to choose? eek.gif


Jun
post #57 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by ildo View Post

You mean my kid's playing room(12'x9.5') is big enough to install a pair of 6.5" or 8" regular speakers?

Yes, and for most bedrooms, placing a pair of in-ceiling speakers is easier than a single DVC.
Quote:
For my bathroom (15'x6'), should I get this Polk 6.5' DVC?
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-In-Ceiling-Stereo-Speaker/dp/B0000WWP4M/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_2
But the price I can buy a pair from Monoprice. How to choose? eek.gif

If you're choosing a DVC or single-speaker due to cost, I'd choose a cheap(er) pair of speakers. You can easily upgrade the speakers later. Moving from a single DVC location to two speakers later will involve a lot of drywall patching (and on the ceiling, which is the hardest to make look right).

Which is also why I recommend folks start out with 6.5" in-ceiling speakers. There's a ton of models to choose from, so if you buy cheap and later want to upgrade, you'll be able to easily find another model that will fit in that cut-out (or maybe one slightly larger). I installed 8" in-ceiling speakers in my house, and within a few years wanted to upgrade some of them. The choices for 8" speakers with a 9.5"+ cutout were few. Luckily, I found ones that both fit and sound excellent...

(oh, and when I say upgrade - I mean I added more speaker locations in the house - I upgraded the more important rooms, and moved the old speakers to the 'new' locations).

Jeff
post #58 of 79
Thread Starter 
Hi, Guys:

Seems like using HDMI matrix can easily set up the video distribution. And using system likes NuVo can setup multiple zone whole house music system.
But how do I connect them together? For example, how can I let my living room's in-ceiling speakers to play the sound for the TV?
And how do I let the speaker in my bedroom to play the sound for the TV too?

Thanks
Jun
post #59 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by ildo View Post

Seems like using HDMI matrix can easily set up the video distribution. And using system likes NuVo can setup multiple zone whole house music system.
But how do I connect them together? For example, how can I let my living room's in-ceiling speakers to play the sound for the TV?
And how do I let the speaker in my bedroom to play the sound for the TV too?

You connect the sources to both systems. HDMI to the matrix, and analog audio to your WHA system. This is trivial if the equipment is all centralized. If not, a bit of extra wiring (cat5e will work) between the locations will be needed. I have my DirecTV boxes connected to my NuVo system, and use those sources every morning to listen to the news in the master bathroom (as mentioned above, instead of installing a TV there).

For watching TV, in-ceiling speakers in the same room are almost never in the right places to make that work well. I do this in my game room for sporting events, but wouldn't recommend it at all for primary TV locations or bedrooms. Use a soundbar if you want something better than TV speakers and keep that separate from the WHA speakers in those cases.

Or, you can do what I've done in my bedrooms - position the WHA in-ceiling speakers so they can be used as surround speakers and use the local source interrupt device to switch the speakers between the WHA system and an AVR for that zone. Takes a bit of wiring and planning:



Jeff
post #60 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Or, you can do what I've done in my bedrooms - position the WHA in-ceiling speakers so they can be used as surround speakers and use the local source interrupt device to switch the speakers between the WHA system and an AVR for that zone. Takes a bit of wiring and planning

Jeff

What type/brand of signal interrupt do you use between your avr and keypad?
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