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Subwoofer recommendation

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
Hey guys Iam wanting to build a enclosure for 2 15" subwoofers one on top of the other each with its own air space. The two subs iam looking at are the Dayton RSS390HF and the Dayton RSS390HO. Iam looking for the one that will do best in a sealed enclosure. If somebody has bassbox pro or some other software that can give me dimensions for this kind of setup would be appreciated.

Thanks, Jason
post #2 of 19
The HF is a better sealed box woofer. 3.5 ft3 per driver is about as small as you should go. The new Ultimax 15 is a better driver in the same box size depending on how much power you have.

The HF should only be used with 300-400 watts. The Ultimax would be good for 600-700 watts.
post #3 of 19
Thread Starter 
I will be using a CROWN XLS1000 in briged mode. I have it running to 12" subwoofers right now. Dayton says 500 to 1000 watts for the HT, is this for a bigger box than what you recomended? I can go bigger than 3.5 ft3 if need be. Keep in mind this is a double stack that I am wanting to build. These will also be corner loaded.
post #4 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIESEL758 View Post

I will be using a CROWN XLS1000 in briged mode. I have it running to 12" subwoofers right now. Dayton says 500 to 1000 watts for the HT, is this for a bigger box than what you recomended? I can go bigger than 3.5 ft3 if need be. Keep in mind this is a double stack that I am wanting to build. These will also be corner loaded.

If you have 2 4-ohm subs, you'd have to use the amp in stereo or wire the subs in series and then run the amp bridged. Either way, you'd not going to be able to get the most power possible out of your amplifier.
post #5 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by djkest View Post

If you have 2 4-ohm subs, you'd have to use the amp in stereo or wire the subs in series and then run the amp bridged. Either way, you'd not going to be able to get the most power possible out of your amplifier.

Ok what about a second crown xls1000? But for now the one will have to work.
post #6 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIESEL758 View Post

Ok what about a second crown xls1000? But for now the one will have to work.

I mean, you can do it, no problem. You are just going to be getting less than maximum power from your current amp. Yes, you could add one later if you want. Or you could get a DVC sub that could be wired to 2 ohms.
post #7 of 19
Thread Starter 
Can I use the HF in mono mode off the xls1000, it rated at 1100 watts Iam pretty sure it has been stated its not that much so I should be safe putting one of these on each amp.
post #8 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIESEL758 View Post

I will be using a CROWN XLS1000 in briged mode. I have it running to 12" subwoofers right now. Dayton says 500 to 1000 watts for the HT, is this for a bigger box than what you recomended? I can go bigger than 3.5 ft3 if need be. Keep in mind this is a double stack that I am wanting to build. These will also be corner loaded.

The power rating isn't in question. A sealed box is excursion limited based on box volume. The power levels I gave you take the given drivers to xmax in the given volume. Increasing volume will further limit power. Decreasing volume will allow for more power but also decrease low end efficiency.
post #9 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIESEL758 View Post

Hey guys Iam wanting to build a enclosure for 2 15" subwoofers one on top of the other each with its own air space.
Why? They'll work better split up.
Quote:
The two subs iam looking at are the Dayton RSS390HF and the Dayton RSS390HO.
Why? They're good drivers, but there are many good drivers.
Quote:
Iam looking for the one that will do best in a sealed enclosure.
Why? Not that there's anything wrong with going sealed, but there's nothing wrong with vented either.
Quote:
somebody has bassbox pro or some other software that can give me dimensions for this kind of setup would be appreciated.
WinISD Alpha is free, so there's no reason not to do your own modeling.
Quote:
I will be using a CROWN XLS1000 in briged mode
Again, why? Bridging is employed to get adequate voltage swing into a high impedance load. One channel per sub dual mono is all you should need. If 350w per cab isn't loud enough I can't imagine what would be.
post #10 of 19
Thread Starter 
Ok what would be the best sealed enclosure for my application?? I would like to have good low end out of it if possible with a sealed enclosure. I would like to run the two off my one amp but if I need to get another one I will. Please excuse me for I am quite new to the DIY subwoofer builds I have always used the subs with plate amps. JAY1 is the 3.5 ft3 with or without fill???
post #11 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

Why? They'll work better split up.
Why? They're good drivers, but there are many good drivers.
Why? Not that there's anything wrong with going sealed, but there's nothing wrong with vented either.
WinISD Alpha is free, so there's no reason not to do your own modeling.
Again, why? Bridging is employed to get adequate voltage swing into a high impedance load. One channel per sub dual mono is all you should need. If 350w per cab isn't loud enough I can't imagine what would be.

I have chosen to double stack because that is what works best with the room I am using. I have tried putting the subs in many different locations throughout the room but it always end back in the corner.

As far as drivers I am trying to stay under $200 per sub. Like I said iam new to this so I don't know all the choices of subs. I took a shot in the dark with the amp. I hope it works out.

I don't have enough room to do ported

I did not know WinISD was free

Your right 350w should be enough for my room size
post #12 of 19
Thread Starter 
post #13 of 19
You should do some modeling with Winisd. It's extremely helpful when it comes to understanding box size requirements, spl levels at different wattage levels, and comparing different subs.

I have the Crown XLS 1000 and use it for a sealed 18" Dayton HO. I'm currently running bridge, but really just to do so. The output levels running with a single channel are almost too much for my space. (Live in an apartment so 350w IS too much really, but I like bass.) Bridging simply gives me more headroom, and allows me to get the most out of my amp. Building two sealed 15" subs and feeding them each with a channel from your Crown 1000 should be plenty. More than plenty actually, as you would most likely only ever get near 350watts per channel when you're testing or showing off your subs.

So as others have said, download Winisd Alpha and play around with it. Need help figuring out how to get started with it, just come back here and we'll help.
post #14 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louquid View Post

You should do some modeling with Winisd. It's extremely helpful when it comes to understanding box size requirements, spl levels at different wattage levels, and comparing different subs.

I have the Crown XLS 1000 and use it for a sealed 18" Dayton HO. I'm currently running bridge, but really just to do so. The output levels running with a single channel are almost too much for my space. (Live in an apartment so 350w IS too much really, but I like bass.) Bridging simply gives me more headroom, and allows me to get the most out of my amp. Building two sealed 15" subs and feeding them each with a channel from your Crown 1000 should be plenty. More than plenty actually, as you would most likely only ever get near 350watts per channel when you're testing or showing off your subs.

So as others have said, download Winisd Alpha and play around with it. Need help figuring out how to get started with it, just come back here and we'll help.

Thanks man iam going to download and see what I come up with.
post #15 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIESEL758 View Post

I don't have enough room to do ported
Ported subs need not be any larger than sealed. Depending on the driver used they can be smaller for equal output and extension. And if you're space limited there's no reason not to look at twelves. A twelve can work better than a fifteen in a given box size.
post #16 of 19
Thread Starter 
The room is 15x22 game room with opening to downstairs and open to hallway. I have experimented with a friends 15s and was a huge difference in my room. I have since done acoustic panels. The 12s sound really good iam just looking for more. And by the way these are car audio 12s that I picked up from a liquidation sale.
post #17 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIESEL758 View Post

The room is 15x22...And by the way these are car audio 12s that I picked up from a liquidation sale.
You can't go by what car subs do, since they're designed to operate in a 4x5x7 'room'. And with a 15x22 room I don't see the issue with using properly sized boxes.
post #18 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

You can't go by what car subs do, since they're designed to operate in a 4x5x7 'room'. And with a 15x22 room I don't see the issue with using properly sized boxes.

+1, op never stated what 12's he's using and the box specs. I'm assuming that since he doesn't know how to use winisd then the box is some sort of prefab box that he bought somewhere which probably isn't the ideal box for the subs.
post #19 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiophile1178 View Post

+1, op never stated what 12's he's using and the box specs. I'm assuming that since he doesn't know how to use winisd then the box is some sort of prefab box that he bought somewhere which probably isn't the ideal box for the subs.

Sorry the subs are XPLORE XR-4312 no longer made. I built the boxes per manufactor specs. There were two versions ported and sealed I chose the sealed design because that is what Iam used to back from box building days in car audio competitions. I know how to build boxes and yes I am learning how to use WINISD. Iam old school so forgive me if I do not understand everything. I am learning placement in my room and so on and so forth. Iam venturing in the DIY because everything is so expensive and I simply can't afford it.

Trying to go up to 15s or18s is a big deal for me because I have to convince my wife. This is not a dedicated HT room it is a upstairs gameroom that is our main viewing area so there for Iam limited on where my subs can go. I built two boxes and placed them at different locations around the room. When I put them in the corner stacked on one another I have eliminated almost all nulls and have good sound from all listening positions which I did not have before when they whete separate. Bottom line is I just want to go bigger and more of that theater sound.
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