"OFFICIAL" Pioneer SC-1222-K Owners Thread - Page 10

Is your cable box a DVR?

Just to make sure it works at all I suppose you could unplug all sources from the AVR and then see if it automatically powers down. Then retry as you add one source at a time until you find the culprit.

Kinda oddly, my "iControlAV" app on my phone failed to work, it had controlled the receiver flawlessly for over a week. I haven't change anything in my network, the receiver is still connected by cat5 to the router, and the IP/MAC addresses both match between the 2 devices... yet it still fails to connect.

I tried rebooting both the iPhone and receiver to no avail. Any suggestions on where I should begin to look for solutions?

Try re-applying the network info on the receiver side..even though it still shows the same the ip lease may not have auto renewed

Hi Icelt, Are you using the 2012 version? I'd suggest a reboot of your router/dhcp server as well.

You can also try to re-discover. Fireup the iControlAV and go to the settings option, Select Product then turn "A/V Reciever" off, wait a few moments then turn it back on. Check if it's able to be rediscovered. I've also found that manualy entering the IP works too.

Initally I had similar issues where i'd lose the connection, but setting a manual IP or a DHCP reservation also helps with this.

Hope this helps.

Thank Okibcn and I absolutely agree . It is a bit disappointing but it is what it is and doesn't matter much to me. Why can’t we all just get along. lol Not to distract from the topic of the thread, I have found that the HDMI-CEC works in the strangest of ways at times.

For example, I have my cable box HDMI split before the SC-2022 to feed another display via HDMI of cat6 elsewhere in my house. Oddly amusing to me was that turning on the control on the other display, connected 2022 and the control was enabled for the receiver and the primary display in the other room. Completely pointless in my situation but I did find it a little amusing that sending the CEC commands through components that aren't CEC compliant and not directly connected works in some instances.

NP DennisP hope it worked out for you.

re: Power Down, not sure what else I can add to what Chrisexv6 has suggested. I've had no problems with this and will automaticly power down if no signal is being received after 30 mins. I found out this was working by accident in fact and it took me a few minutes to work out why everything had powered down when it did happen. lol

I yes removed the bar of the speakers. I measured the resistance and the High pass was at 7.9 ohms and the low pass at 3.7. That maybe the issue

The receiver is back on sale at Newegg for 529.

Has anyone seen issues with a Wii connected and issues with 1-2 second delay when going from game play to the little movies inside games? Seems to be plaguing the 1122.

If not, then I think this is the replacement for my Marantz.

Thanks to all who posted with the info. Very helpful!

Is there a consensus or recommendation on the sub setting of yes or plus?

Thanks for the ideas guys. Alas still no go. I even tried deleting the app from my phone and re-downloading it JIC. The only things that don't match between the app and receiver are the port id's: 8102 (app), 23 (receiver). But that shouldn't effect anything right?

I changed to a static address, and the app did find it but when I tried to connect I received the error code B57113 again. No idea what to do now.

Edit...

Now I'm thinking something on the network card might have died on me. I tried to lauch internet radio and media server files from the remote and although I can select the proper sub-menu "Internet Radio" or "Media Server" the receiver doesn't respond to the remote arrow of enter button inputs. Same thing trying to use the front panel buttons. Think I'm screwed.

I suppose I should try Pioneer first and see if they have any ideas.
Edited by icelt - 2/21/13 at 7:37pm

I haven't read all 280 posts, but..... I do have a quesiton:

Is there a setting I can use to use my TV without turning on the receiver?

Setup - DirecTV HD Box (HDMI) ---->> SC1222-k (HDMI)---->>>> Mits TV

Thanks! Bill.....

The reciever is rated for 4olm loads so I would expect it to work. I may not be too demanding on my gear but the only time I ever put a reciever in protect mode it was because I shorted the outputs. There was a loose strand from that speaker wire that was bridging the outputs. Barring anything like that I would would consider it defective. Have you contacted pioneer?
Good luck!

Have you tried to open the integrated web server? You can access it by typing http://your_receiver_ip in an internet browser. Double check the ip configuration if IT doesn't Work.

Regards

Check Page 59 of the user manual. The feature is called "Standby Through", in the HDMI Setup menu.

Regards

Hi Icelt, you should not need to set the port on the receiver and I believe that the port you have seen is setup on "Port 4" under Port Number setting menu? Port 8102 on the app is correct. So all of that sounds fine.

Did you select the appropriate option on the remote when you chose the media or internet radio option? i.e. If you select Media Server as your source, you need to also press the "Media" button on the remote to navigate the on screen menu with the remote arrows.

But, it would suggest that as okibcn has suggested to punch your receiver's IP into a web browser to check that the A/V is actually on your network. Or set the receiver to DHCP, turn it off, remove the DHCP lease from your router, turn Receiver back on and check the DHCP leases and the IP of your Receiver. If it's got an IP from your DHCP pool then it's on the network.

Failing that and as much of a PIA it would be, do a reset of the A/V and start again?

Thanks!

Did you set the speaker system setting to "Front Bi Amp" in the System Setup menu -> Manual Speaker Setup menu -> Speaker System menu? (page 84) I ran my JBL speakers bi amped w/o problem for a while until I needed the surround rear terminals for 7.2.

Yes, "yes". Not "plus". The "plus" setting will generally give you boomy bass, since the sub and front speakers are designed to let the sub take over the task of playing bass. Also, part of the usual theory of sub use is that your fronts will give better sound if they don't need to do low bass (I don't know whether this is true).

However, you might still want to use "plus" for one reason or another, and if it does give you a bass boom, you may be able to fix that by lowering the frequency setting of the sub's crossover control. I use "plus" because one of my subs needs to be hooked up to the high level front speaker outputs from the receiver, so I need to have bass sent to those outputs. And I do turn down my subs' crossover settings (on the subs -- not the receiver).

Thanks again for the support and ideas.

The receiver is definitely on the network. My DHCP auto assigned it 192.168.1.70 with all the issues noted prior. Then I changed it to 72, found it with the app but then still couldn't connect. Then I set it back to DHCP and launched AVNavgigator from the included cd-rom. The included network utility also was able to find the receiver but then the that software failed when it tried to communicate with it as well. Specifically I followed the new setup "walk though" that the software takes you through and when it tried to launch/begin the MCACC process I heard 1 brief white noise burst from the FL speaker and then nothing more. Looking back at the software interface screen it wanted me to launch MCACC again. Pressed "next" and nothing.

Anyway... how do I reset the A/V back to a factory state?

It reduces a lot the distortion when you remove lower frequencies, since the speakers are farther from the non linear operation point with the same output level over the xover freq.

Regards

When everything fails, it is time to look at the manual. Check page 68 of the manual for a full system reset procedure. It will return everything to the factory settings.

Regards
Edited by okibcn - 2/22/13 at 11:10am

BTW with my Samsung 60E7000 plasma TV with "anynet" the TV will display a graphic when the receiver volume is changed, so this may not be exactly what some of you are looking for but it is worth noting I think. However IMHO it is not too useful as the volume units the Sammy E7000 uses are not the same as 1222. For instance last night the TV would display a 60 value for volume which equated to about -27db on the receiver.

Turning on all the component communications options, and with a compatible TV, it indeed does work. One nice thing is that with it on the TV volume controls the receiver sound power output. I don't have any use for the graphic display but that feature is a nice stopgap until I decide on a universal remote.
Edited by icelt - 2/22/13 at 7:48am

Alright, I'm going to throw this out there for some thoughts since I have been racking my brain for the last couple of days, trying to decide between this and the 1122-k. Other than some additional features, is the build quality of the 1222-k that much better than the 1122-k? I'm ready to go with this thing if it's a better piece of equipment, even though the depth of it will result in it sticking out of my rack by a couple of inches. I know that this question is a bit vague, but either receiver has enough features for my needs. My concerns are sound and dependability. My current receiver is 20 years old; they had just come out with Dolby Digital when I bought it. DTS didn't even exist yet. Life was so much simpler. But I need HDMI now as I just retired my old rear projection TV for a new flatscreen. Yes, you are dealing with a dinosaur here folks.

I dont think the 1122-K uses the new D^3 digital amps (it uses plain class AB). Thats one of (if not THE) biggest differences between the two models.

Some argue the merits of digital sounding better/worse/"more fake" than class AB, but what cant really be argued is the efficiency. Low (to no) heat, low power draw, etc. The lack of heat and massive power draws could lead to better reliability in the long run, but they havent been out long enough to be sure.

Yup that's the biggie. Taken from the Pioneer web site for the 1122:
Amplifier Design - Direct Energy

We do know that less heat generated is never a bad thing for consumer electronics But agreed as well that only time will tell how truly reliable these newish D3 amps are.
Edited by icelt - 2/22/13 at 10:08am

The SC1222 is very similar to the SC61 which was reviewed by Home Theater Magazine http://www.hometheater.com/content/pioneer-elite-sc-61-av-receiver

If you can afford the sc-1222k, I would go for that one instead. The D3, and other features and sale price at $529 from newegg is an over all better AVR.

This is coming from someone who's experienced a few stops since dinosaur -

You might want to use the comparisons available at http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Home/AV-Receivers/ch.Pioneer+Receivers.Compare

I've transitioned receivers from basic stereo (Harman Kardon mid-70s and Marantz early 90s) through composite (Yamaha around 2001) and HDMI (Onkyo 2008). Add an entry-level Harman Kardon to the latter just 4 months ago. Interest in home theater use (5.1 system since early 200s) including 3D TV and DVD (both purchased October) but music capability is primary (most recent purchase - prior to the SC-1222 - was an Onkyo CD player with better DACs).

Had some Spica speakers (TC-50s) renowned for sound stage and imagery. The recent Harman Kardon didn't have the power to drive those 4 ohm speakers and - like a fool - I decided to change speakers rather than the recently purchased AVR (found a loving buyer that can't say enough good things while driving them with monoblocks). So new Klipsch RB-82 IIs.

Just wanted to establish the extent (limited) of my bona fides before actually commenting after playing with the SC-1222 the last couple of days (I'm retired so I've had time to do that) given your predilections for dependability and sound :

Dependability: Sorry, but who knows on the 1222? D amps are relatively (compared to A/B) new. Pioneer advertises the D3 amp in the 1222 as "new." So we have the newest of the new. As chrisexv6 mentions, much lower heat could be a positive harbinger.

Sound: No qualms - go for it! As I previously mentioned, musicality is my requirement. Not having heard the 1222 prior to ordering, I was at the mercy of reviews herein. Wanted to like it, prepared not to. Always interested in comments re: the perceived "warmth" of receivers, particularly given the generally acknowledged "forward" sound of the Klipsch speakers. Not to worry - the MCACC allows calibration to meet discernment any one individual's ears (and, although still "dialing-in" my 1222, very few adjustments for mine).

No experience with the 1122-K so can't compare build quality. I like the sound (as well as the flexibility in tailoring it) and the very low operation temperature of the 1222 (due to the class D amp which the 1122 doesn't have). My experience is that change often comes in multiples (i.e., the domino effect); I think the 1222 offers greater flexibility (inputs/outputs, 4 ohm speaker capability, etc.) on future decisions.

audi0file, I really like your post, specially because you have experienced since long time ago. I remember my father´s HK and my old Marantz.... , but I do not understand this:

Why are you still using a CD player with analog outputs? You will get the best sound using any of the digital outputs, optical or coaxial links of your player. Using the digital out renders the installed DACs inside any player useless since the DAC only provide analog signal to the analog out from a digital data stream. The DAC inside the SC-1222 uses the Hi-bit 24 so it reduces a lot the quantification noise and it should do the same job or better, doing everything by binary calculations until the very end, even beyond the D3 amplification stage! only the Pulse Width Modulation stage is analog!!!!

Otherwise I must admit that I never realized the following point until you mentioned it:

It was a great point, thanks. Now I have one more reason to be proud of my SC-1222K

Regards

Ok. In my 5.1, I plan on setting all 4 of my towers & my center to small & crossingover at 80. I also have the crossover dial on the back of my sub turned all the way to direct, which should be 120. Does that sound correct, or does it need to be at 80 like the others?