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Best Banana plugs and type for the money? Please read and kindly advise.

post #1 of 46
Thread Starter 
Hello to all. I am in the process of having an entire HT installed. The installer ran Audioquest Type 2 in wall cables. Each in-wall cable has two negative and two positive cables, so one cable could potentially be used to power two separate speakers. What they are doing in order to increase the thickness (theoretically the gauge of the wire), is interwinding the two negatives together and also the two positives together; in essence to power one speaker. Not sure if this is making sense? My question is that they welded a banana plug from Audioquest to the end of the cable. The banana is bare and then the rubber boot slides over it. It basically looks like crap. As the boot is loose, it keeps sliding back and forth. I want to get different boots, and ones that the actual banana plug and boot are one integral part. Which ones do you all recommend? Also, they soldered the banana plugs to the wires. Is this the best solution, or is it better to get the locking banana plugs or the crimping type? Please advise. Thank you.
post #2 of 46
I use GLS Audio from Orange County Speaker.

http://www.speakerrepair.com/page/category/AHH_Banana.html

Both the Locking Banana and the Wave Flex use a double screw system to keep that wire in there good and tight. Which one you go with will depend on how often you are removing the cables and how tight your working area is. I have the locking banana but they are a pain to twist them tight in tight places and binding posts that are too close together. The Wave Flex will just push in just like ordinary banana plugs and can be spread apart again if they get too loose.

Other good plugs are the Nakamichi ones found on eBay. Monoprice is OK but they use crimping pressure to keep the wire in and I've heard of folks having problems with the banana end bending. They ARE inexpensive though and will work if you only go back there and mess with them a couple times a year.

I can't really comment on the merits or negatives of winding two smaller-gauge wires together to make a " bigger " wire. All I know is that I wouldn't do it because of the work involved vs. just buying 10 gauge CL2/3 wire that isn't twisted. It will probably would work OK unless they also twisted the positive and negative together without properly shielding the two twisted cables.
Edited by jevans64 - 2/7/13 at 12:40pm
post #3 of 46
I've used both GLS & BJC locking bananas.

If you use very thick and rigid 10AWG cables, GLS is fine.

Otherwise, I recommend Blue Jeans Cable locking bananas.

My Kimber Kable 8PR are 10AWG, but they are kind of flexible & soft, not rigid. So the GLS worked okay, but the BJC are perfect.
post #4 of 46
Thread Starter 
Thanks Guys. This is going to be connected with a Denon 4311, emotiva XPA-5, and the speakers will be Monitor Audio GX300 towers, GX350 Center, and GXFX surrounds. The wires are coming from wall plates through the wall in each of the respective locations where the speakers will be placed.

Based upon this, would you all recommend the BJC, GLS Locking Banana OR the Wave Flex, or the Nakamichi? Please be specific and cite model numbers and such, as I am a novice.

I felt into the Hoopla of cable brand, and Audioquest does not make any real thick 10 or 12 gauge cables, so the Audioquest suggested doing what they did to the installed, in order to reduce the gauge of the wire. The two positive are twisted together and the two negatives are twisted together, but the bare wire is exposed where they are soldered to the banana plug. There is no techflex or anything like that.

Please kindly check out the link below for a picture of the cable:
http://www.audioquest.com/star-quad-speaker-cables/type-2
post #5 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by addictaudio View Post


Please kindly check out the link below for a picture of the cable:
http://www.audioquest.com/star-quad-speaker-cables/type-2
Sorry, but you got taken. That cable won't sound any different than 14ga zip cord. Don't get taken again with the plugs, there's no difference in how they sound and precious little difference in how they work. I'd use these if I used plugs at all, but I don't.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=091-330
post #6 of 46
Sewell Deadbolts

Same thing as the GLS plugs and MUCH cheaper
post #7 of 46
I concur about the Sewell Deadbolts. Just purchased a couple dozen myself! Easy and quick to install and much better pricing than the similar GLS and Monster plugs.

http://sewelldirect.com/Sewell-Deadbolt-Banana-Plugs-12-Pair.asp
post #8 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by afrogt View Post

I concur about the Sewell Deadbolts. Just purchased a couple dozen myself! Easy and quick to install and much better pricing than the similar GLS and Monster plugs.

http://sewelldirect.com/Sewell-Deadbolt-Banana-Plugs-12-Pair.asp

I just got a set from Amazon for 27.95 delivered. They seem to be the same plug as the two mentioned.
post #9 of 46
Thread Starter 
Need more help and opinions here guys. Seems like those Sewell's do not fit all receivers? I have a Denon 4311 and an Emotiva XPA-5. Dumb question, but I also got RCA interconnects to connect the Denon with the Emotiva. Will the banana plugs/wires now go from the speaker to the Denon or Emotiva? Either way, I need references in which the plug will fit nicely with the Monitor Audio GX speakers and to the Denon/Emotiva.
post #10 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by addictaudio View Post

Need more help and opinions here guys. Seems like those Sewell's do not fit all receivers? I have a Denon 4311 and an Emotiva XPA-5. Dumb question, but I also got RCA interconnects to connect the Denon with the Emotiva. Will the banana plugs/wires now go from the speaker to the Denon or Emotiva? Either way, I need references in which the plug will fit nicely with the Monitor Audio GX speakers and to the Denon/Emotiva.

Where did you get that info on the Sewell's? If they don't fit the other ones won't either. They are all the same size.
post #11 of 46
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post

Where did you get that info on the Sewell's? If they don't fit the other ones won't either. They are all the same size.

Read reviews on Amazon. Some said that it would not fit some Sony and Denon receivers.
post #12 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by addictaudio View Post

Read reviews on Amazon. Some said that it would not fit some Sony and Denon receivers.

Those reviews are wrong if they have standard binding posts like most receivers/ speakers do. They will work fine with the gear you have listed. Nice product at a very nice price. I've tried different ones over the years and they are what I now use.
Edited by XStanleyX - 2/7/13 at 5:11pm
post #13 of 46
They fit my Denon perfectly
post #14 of 46
Nice, I have monoprice plugs but those Sewell ones looks great, better than ones I'm using.
If the plugs did not fit certain receivers I can bet it is the low end receivers that still use the pinch style speaker connectors, and not the round ones.
As the shape is the same, I can see this being a noob mistake.
post #15 of 46
Thread Starter 
I am just going by the POOR or AVERAGE reviews that I read on Amazon for the Sewell; and those were the reviews that made mention of the fittment issues. So the Sewell is IDENTICAL to the GLS, made by the same manufacturer, and just rebadged, or they serve the same purpose? Is it kind of like saying that ALL 12 gauge wire is the same, regardless of brand and material, or are the banana plugs in question the exact same, but with different brand names?
post #16 of 46
The sewell plugs are very very similar to the Monster Cable ones of the same type in design and quality. Just a lot cheaper since Monster has to pay for all their advertising and line their pockets more. Rebadged? No.
post #17 of 46
Thread Starter 
Ok, it appears like the Sewell on Amazon and the GLS from Orange County that someone posted in a link above are very close in price, so which one is better for my application? How do those two compare to BJC locking bananas? I think that I am in between these three. The BJC ones are $5.25 a pair though? Are they better? I will need 20 of them right? five speakers, no biamping with the Emotiva XPA-5, but was biamping when running from the Denon 4311.
post #18 of 46
Any of them will do the job. I just prefer the Sewell Deadbolt. I like the design because no screwdriver is required like some designs. They are made well and you are getting your moneys worth. Your choice.
post #19 of 46
I have 3 Denon receivers and the Sewell Deadbolts fit all of them. maybe the people who had problems didn't insert them all the way? You get a nice click or locking feel when they're in good.
Quote:
Is it kind of like saying that ALL 12 gauge wire is the same, regardless of brand and material, or are the banana plugs in question the exact same, but with different brand names?

Nope all 12ga is not the same and banana plugs aren't either. I've got my old Monoprice, Nakamichi, parts express and other plugs in a zip lock bag after I replaced them with the Sewell Deadbolts.

Like was said above, all the other plugs work too but I prefer the Sewells.
post #20 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by addictaudio View Post

Ok, it appears like the Sewell on Amazon and the GLS from Orange County that someone posted in a link above are very close in price, so which one is better for my application? How do those two compare to BJC locking bananas? I think that I am in between these three. The BJC ones are $5.25 a pair though? Are they better? I will need 20 of them right? five speakers, no biamping with the Emotiva XPA-5, but was biamping when running from the Denon 4311.

I'm not seeing a closeness in price at all, Sewell is much cheaper.

24pack GLS safe connect, $59.95
http://www.speakerrepair.com/page/product/safe_connect/BR24.html

12 pr (24 plugs) Sewell Deadbolt, $24.95.
http://sewelldirect.com/Sewell-Deadbolt-Banana-Plugs-12-Pair.asp

Price isn't close at all.
post #21 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by addictaudio View Post

I am just going by the POOR or AVERAGE reviews that I read on Amazon for the Sewell; and those were the reviews that made mention of the fittment issues.
If you look at how the Sewell attaches to the cable you'll see that the wire must be constructed with fine gauge filaments to fan out. It would have a problem with solid or heavy gauge filaments. My guess is that negative reviews came from those who didn't match the connector with the type of cable they were using.
post #22 of 46
My brother-in-law bought these for his Denon/Pioneer setup, and was concerned about the fact that the plugs didn't want to go in.

The answer was: Push harder. You need to use sufficient force to make the 'leaves' of the plug body flex just a little bit. A bit of K-Y Jelly might help.
post #23 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by addictaudio View Post

Thanks Guys. This is going to be connected with a Denon 4311, emotiva XPA-5, and the speakers will be Monitor Audio GX300 towers, GX350 Center, and GXFX surrounds.

Based upon this, would you all recommend the BJC, GLS Locking Banana

So you officially went with MA and not Legacy Audio? biggrin.gif

I would get all BJC locking bananas. It's locking mechanism guarantees a perfect fit with everything banana.

GLS diameter is too wide for most cables. Also the dual screws on the BJC are bigger than the GLS screws, which makes it better for screwing down the wires.

Deadbolt is no good for thick, rigid wires.

BJC locking banana all the way for me.
Edited by AcuDefTechGuy - 2/8/13 at 6:55am
post #24 of 46
Thread Starter 
^^^^ As of now, it is looking that way:) I really "wanted" to like the new Revel Performa3 series, and listened to the F208?C208 combo, but in my opinion, the tweeter is cheap and was not too my liking at all. They were not very dynamic and did not image as well. The sound was also more directional. I had to crank the volume to reference level, in order to get any enjoyment at all. I found the MA GX with the ribbon transducers to be more dynamic, image better, and the sound dispersed much better as well. I will check out the BJC bananas.
post #25 of 46
Just to clear up for OP and future reference, I'm using Deadbolts with the 12awg in-wall from Monoprice WITH 3/16" (I think..) heatshrink. They fit up in the Deadbolts and they fit tightly when screwed on.
post #26 of 46
Thread Starter 
Guys, below was the explanation given by the installer when the Audioquest Type 2 cable was selected for this installation. This was a almost a year ago, just when I started to learn about wires and such. Is it OK to do what they did with twisting the wires together in the end when connecting to the bananas? Are there any negatives in doing so? Please read below:

"As for Audioquest, the Type 2 is the cable that I think we should use. After speaking with my rep, this would be a great solution for your speakers. It is a solid four conductor. However, it would be used as a two conductor. The idea is that there are two positives and two negatives. We share the two positives together and the two negatives together. Essentially, we are twisting the two reds and twisting the two blacks to 'create' a 13 gauge wire. This is a theory that Audioquest has about sharing conductors as opposed to using one large gauge conductor. And, it's solid as opposed to a high strand wire, another advantage according to Audioquest."
post #27 of 46
It's fine, no harm will come of doing that.
post #28 of 46
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JD in NJ View Post

It's fine, no harm will come of doing that.

I hope so, as that has been a major concern of mine.
post #29 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by addictaudio View Post

Guys, below was the explanation given by the installer when the Audioquest Type 2 cable was selected for this installation.
The simple fact of the matter is that all of Audioquest's claims are hogwash, so there's nothing to be lost, or gained, by twisting them together.
post #30 of 46
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

The simple fact of the matter is that all of Audioquest's claims are hogwash, so there's nothing to be lost, or gained, by twisting them together.

Regardless of brand, by by twisting the cables together as described, there is a decrease in wire gauge size, correct?
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