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S.E.O.S.R. MEGA BUILD - Page 24

post #691 of 1496
I can't wait to see them finished and hear your listening impressions!
post #692 of 1496
What size/type of router bit did you use to cut the small rings of MDF for the ports?
post #693 of 1496
Thread Starter 
Woohoo, woohoo woohoo....(picture a grown man doing the happy dance around his office) biggrin.gif

Matt, you are the man!!! These are looking great! I may have to purchase some custom made flared ports from MTG Designs!

We have also settled on the surrounds, which will be simply a DIYSG Sentinel (Matts design) with a TD15M rather than the original woofer. It will be full passive. The thought process is that the xover will be high enough and the amount of power needed won't be that great, so the passives will be fairly inexpensive. I have a stack o' wood in my garage that I can start cutting up this weekend and get some of them built in the near future.
post #694 of 1496
Thread Starter 
Matt and I discussed this challange a bit last night, and I'm wondering if any of you guys have some thoughts....the seos24 don't have any mounting holes, etc. We need to figure out the best way to mount them to the baffle, but I do want the CD to be accessible for "service
if needed. I know we could just make some mounting holes, but it makes me really nervous to start drilling into these things knowing that I cannot easily replace them. Thoughts???
post #695 of 1496
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopShop1 View Post

Matt and I discussed this challange a bit last night, and I'm wondering if any of you guys have some thoughts....the seos24 don't have any mounting holes, etc. We need to figure out the best way to mount them to the baffle, but I do want the CD to be accessible for "service
if needed. I know we could just make some mounting holes, but it makes me really nervous to start drilling into these things knowing that I cannot easily replace them. Thoughts???

This is hard to explain, but my idea would be to glue the waveguide to basically a ring of wood that would sit on the baffle. The baffle cutout would have to be deeper, deeper by however thick the ring of wood is. So it would separate the baffle where the waveguide sits into two pieces, and the screws would go into the back side of the wood and would be inside the speaker instead of outside. The woofer would have to be out of the cabinet to get access to the screws holding the wood together inside the speaker. If I didn't explain it well enough with text I can try to draw a rough picture if you want.
post #696 of 1496
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JWagstaff View Post

This is hard to explain, but my idea would be to glue the waveguide to basically a ring of wood that would sit on the baffle. The baffle cutout would have to be deeper, deeper by however thick the ring of wood is. So it would separate the baffle where the waveguide sits into two pieces, and the screws would go into the back side of the wood and would be inside the speaker instead of outside. The woofer would have to be out of the cabinet to get access to the screws holding the wood together inside the speaker. If I didn't explain it well enough with text I can try to draw a rough picture if you want.

I think I know exactly what you mean...it could even be done with screws on the front side for ease of install/removal I think...looks aren't a factor here. Awesome idea, thank you!!

Matt, what are your thoughts?
post #697 of 1496
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopShop1 View Post

I think I know exactly what you mean...it could even be done with screws on the front side for ease of install/removal I think...looks aren't a factor here. Awesome idea, thank you!!

Matt, what are your thoughts?

yeah, you could screw right in the front and that would be really easy if you don't care about the looks
post #698 of 1496
Chop now that you have seen the size of the boxes what do you think of your original plan of your mains being 4x15" + SEAS24 and your surrounds 2x15" + SEOS24 ?
post #699 of 1496
So for your surrounds you're doing SEOS12/360/TD15? Any reason not to do SEOS15 for minimal extra cost since your baffles have to be that wide anyway?
post #700 of 1496
Thanks guys,

Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Geez man. Have you seen my test baffles? I usually free hand the router for recesses. And flush rout the baffle edges, nah, waste of time and router bit sharpness. Who needs extra clamps on a test baffle when 30 minutes of air drying will suffice biggrin.gif

Looks great smile.gif I do hope you use those for a permanent build!


Hey I wasted no router bits doing that baffle, believe it or not that's all freehand with the jigsaw except for the port holes which I used an adjustable circle cutter for. I have no idea what I am going to do with that huge box I sure don't have to space to set up a pair of them anywhere.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JWagstaff View Post

What size/type of router bit did you use to cut the small rings of MDF for the ports?

This is the guy I used for that:


Search adjustable circle cutter. It is really handy for smaller circles when you don't need super precise holes cut. Mounted in my drill press it will eat its way through a piece of 3/4" mdf in about 5 seconds.
post #701 of 1496
So when will Erich have this kit ready for sale :P So glad you guys decided to keep going with this project.
post #702 of 1496
Every part of this equation is pricey, especially the CD. Doubtful it would ever make it to full kit form based on the current offerings. It still would be greatly helpful if the passive crossover could be offered along with the baffle/box and Ports.
post #703 of 1496
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopShop1 View Post

I think I know exactly what you mean...it could even be done with screws on the front side for ease of install/removal I think...looks aren't a factor here. Awesome idea, thank you!!

Matt, what are your thoughts?

Yeah that would work though it will be tight between the woofers. I have only a 1/4" between the waveguide and woofers with the 48" high box. I may play around with some non permanent solutions as I don't want to glue the borrowed waveguide to anything.
post #704 of 1496
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

Yeah that would work though it will be tight between the woofers. I have only a 1/4" between the waveguide and woofers with the 48" high box. I may play around with some non permanent solutions as I don't want to glue the borrowed waveguide to anything.

If you have extra width available you could put screws on the sides of the waveguide and above it, and just squeeze 1 or 2 between the woofer and waveguide. And you could just use tape or whatever to attach the waveguide while experimenting so it wouldn't be permanent.
post #705 of 1496
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HFGuy View Post

Chop now that you have seen the size of the boxes what do you think of your original plan of your mains being 4x15" + SEAS24 and your surrounds 2x15" + SEOS24 ?

Honestly, it just makes me wish I could have afforded to do it biggrin.gif
post #706 of 1496
Well now I know why Matt has been so scarce around these parts lately. smile.gif

This is turning out to be a killer project.
post #707 of 1496
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSmithers View Post

So for your surrounds you're doing SEOS12/360/TD15? Any reason not to do SEOS15 for minimal extra cost since your baffles have to be that wide anyway?

Honestly Smithers, just because Matt has the xover close to optomized for them and they are readily available.
post #708 of 1496
Chop, If I recall, your TD-15-M's are 4 ohm, and you say Matt has optimized the crossover. Will this be a different design than what Matt has already worked up? Maybe should have directed this ? to Matt.
For surrounds & I imagine saving space (fitted into columns?), your going small sealed, maybe 2 3/4 - 3 cf.?
Glad your continuing on with this project, I love It. Will there be a Theater build thread..
post #709 of 1496
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hindikush View Post

Chop, If I recall, your TD-15-M's are 4 ohm, and you say Matt has optimized the crossover. Will this be a different design than what Matt has already worked up? Maybe should have directed this ? to Matt.
For surrounds & I imagine saving space (fitted into columns?), your going small sealed, maybe 2 3/4 - 3 cf.?
Glad your continuing on with this project, I love It. Will there be a Theater build thread..

Surrounds will most liekly be sealed, yes, and in columns. He has the crossovers 90% of the way there from my understanding.

I will be starting the build thread very soon for the theater room.
post #710 of 1496
I did the TD15m-4/DNA-360/SEOS-12 design at the same time as the 4550 design for Travis (bass addict). After hearing his thoughts of vocals sounding harsh I want to go back and listen to the 360 design again to make sure it sounds like I think it should. I was on a somewhat short deadline with Travis's design trying to get everything wrapped up and sent over to him before a planned weekend party where he wanted to show off his new system. I feel now that I may not have enough time to work all the kinks out the first time and get it voiced perfectly.

I do have an idea what one of those kinks might be (related to the mic calibration file I used for all those measurements) and that is one of my reasons for taking a second look before Jake goes and builds the crossovers. Hopefully if it is what I think it is I will have a fix to bring down the harshness on Travis's too. I only see it needing slight value changes on some of the components, I'll update the official design thread on DIYsoundgroup if I do make some tweaks.
post #711 of 1496
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

I did the TD15m-4/DNA-360/SEOS-12 design at the same time as the 4550 design for Travis (bass addict). After hearing his thoughts of vocals sounding harsh I want to go back and listen to the 360 design again to make sure it sounds like I think it should. I was on a somewhat short deadline with Travis's design trying to get everything wrapped up and sent over to him before a planned weekend party where he wanted to show off his new system. I feel now that I may not have enough time to work all the kinks out the first time and get it voiced perfectly.

I do have an idea what one of those kinks might be (related to the mic calibration file I used for all those measurements) and that is one of my reasons for taking a second look before Jake goes and builds the crossovers. Hopefully if it is what I think it is I will have a fix to bring down the harshness on Travis's too. I only see it needing slight value changes on some of the components, I'll update the official design thread on DIYsoundgroup if I do make some tweaks.

I'm really interested to see what you come up with here Matt. I'd love to be able to improve this area a bit.
post #712 of 1496
Have you tried any changes? Adding a couple ohms in front of a tweeter can make a world of difference. Especially if it was mic calibration related.

Matt, you have a PE mic? or a UMIK? I've asked a hundred times but always forget. I have a couple mics from Cross Spectrum that I verify against each other. If you ever need to borrow one you can. Mind you, shipping from Canada eek.gif
post #713 of 1496
I also think trying a little more padding on the CD should help, though the easiest way to do it on that crossover would be to put a 15 ohm resistor in parallel with the two 10 ohms that are on the tweeter board. That should knock down the HF level a couple dB's.


It's the PE Dayton mic, I think I left the wrong cal file loaded during those measurements since I noticed the wrong one was loaded the next time I looked at it I picked up another at the PE tent sale (they had them for $16 eek.gif) so I can compare those two.

Do you have anything USB? I don't have a preamp/interface for XLR.
post #714 of 1496
I have a UMIK and an ECM8000. I haven't tried downloading minidsp's cal file to compare to CSL's cal file yet. I should do that. $16, Awesome. I'd grab 3 or 4 at that price, just to have them. Unless they were damaged or something.
post #715 of 1496
This is going to be such a nice build. Wow.
post #716 of 1496
Enclosure is done, Pictures!







That's the Sentinel box on the right
post #717 of 1496
AWESOME

how much do those weigh?

also can we get a picture or someone standing necx to one of them
post #718 of 1496
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

Enclosure is done, Pictures!




post #719 of 1496
Really, Really Cool. Coming together quickly now!
post #720 of 1496
You should include a DVD for scale.
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