Originally Posted by craig john
The AntiMode is a subwoofer EQ. It doesn't do anything to the speakers. The speakers won't even be on while you do the calibration. Without the speakers on, the subwoofer Distance setting is immaterial. There is no benefit to setting any Distance settings prior to running the AntiMode.
Win, lose or draw, that's how I'm doing it and based on what you posed, there's no foul in doing it the way I set things up.
From the 8033 manual: "For best results run your AVR's calibration program AFTER the AntiMode calibration has finished."
Which is what I'm doing.
Also: "Crossovers and Low Pass Filters in the AVR do not affect calibration since they take place before the AntiMode in the signal chain. Also, any other equipment connected before the AntiMode will not interfere with the calibration process."
I have the manual in front of me. Anti-Mode has to deal with anything sent to it, including anything the AVR sends down the line. I'm not sure what you mean by it won't interfere as anything the AVR introduces into the signal chain will influence the final outcome. One should have all AVR settings set to zero so the AVR will have minimal influence on the output signal sent to Anti_Mode.
Although they don't specifically refer to the Distance settings, those settings also occur prior to the AntiMode and will have no impact on the calibration.
That's a yes and no answer in that all settings will influence the output signal going to Anti-Mode and Anti-Mode will measure and set filters according to what the output measures.
I'm just trying to understand...
if you're calibrating the subwoofer levels, the Distance settings are immaterial.
I'm setting the gain potentiometer on the subs, not the levels in the AVR. The distance is set in the AVR to account for distance to the MLP. It's a habit. If it don't matter, then it don't matter.
The speakers won't even be playing when you're performing the calibration of the subwoofer levels.
And I said as much. Just pink noise going through the subs.
If they need adjustment, are you adjusting both by exactly the same amount to ensure they stay gain-matched?
Yes. As close as the bunged up gain potentiometers will allow.
This is the part I don't understand. Could you please post the graphs showing the adjustments and improvements?
No can do as I don't save this type of information. I measure, make adjustments, erase past measurements and move forward. No saving of information other than ending measurements.
Last reading made and saved.
Actually, if you want to change these parameters, you should do it BEFORE you run the AntiMode. Then the AntiMode can account for them in it's EQ filters. Changing them after the fact, invalidates the EQ filters.
Parametric changes are made pre-Anti-Mode and changes are made post Anti-Mode as I'm going for the best REW reading I can manipulate out of the system.
Best subwoofer placement, verified by REW measurements.
Best subwoofer parametric settings, verified by REW measurements.
Anti-Mode run, base measurement reading made.
Best post Anti-Mode parametric settings made, verified by REW measurements.
Audyssey run, base measurement reading made.
Best post Audyssey parametric settings made, verified by REW measurements.
Anti-Mode has it's limits as does Audyssey. After Anti-Mode efforts are verified to be improved on, then Audyssey is run and the same for Audyssey.
Again, I can't see how it is beneficial to change these parameters post-Audyssey. Audyssey's Room Correction filters have been set based on an initial set of measurements. If you change these parameters post-Audyssey, the filters it has set will be invalid. If you want to adjust the phase and LPF, do it pre-Audyssey/pre AntiMode so both Audyssey and AntiMode can "see" the adjustments in their measurements and account for them in the filters.
Of course it is. Changing it after running Audyssey will make the subs and/or speakers out-of-phase with each other. However, that can only be detrimental, not beneficial.
Only if you don't believe that REW is giving honest measurements. FWIW, my last session lasted two afternoons. This is not something I'm doing in five minutes and calling it good.
It's called a Low Pass Filter or LPF.
Then despite my displeasure at calling this limit potentiometer by this terminology, a LPF it shall be.
That's fine, but do it pre-Audyssey/AntiMode, not post.
Everything is done both pre and post.
Please post your measurements throughout the whole process. Actually, if you could start a new thread detailing your process, that would be even better.
As I posted, I measure, make notes, erase, move forward. I don't save measurements. FWIW, this last iteration, all distant and level settings were left at post-Audyssey settings. Only the parametric settings were changed (phase and subwoofer LPF setting) as well as AVR provided crossover for mains & center channel (set to 60Hz) as well as mains set to small and Dynamic Compression set to low. For the purpose of this measurement iteration, distance and level settings were left alone.
I don't know of any forum members using "Z-weighting" and the 3m, Quest, 2200, Type 2, sound meter
is a $1,400.00 sound meter. It would be fair to say that the expected use of this meter is outside the scope of our conversation.
Again, research has shown me that readily available (affordable), Type 2 sound meters found on the consumer market are Spec limited in the fashion I posted. How far one wishes to push this string is up to their wallet. I'm simply sharing what research has shown to be true and accurate as to commonly available sound meters which one might consider reasonably priced, which does not include the price of a sound meter calibration device. I post this after two days worth of web based research to augment my understanding of sound meters, the purchase of three sound meters and one sound meter calibration device.
Hopefully you'll see my above as a reasonable effort. Monday or Tuesday I have plans of resetting up the measuring gear to see if some changes will benefit the 37Hz dip the spectrogram shows along with a sympathetic null known as a harmonic. As the spectrogram shows, the room's acoustics would expectedly benefit from the addition of a third subwoofer.
-Edited by BeeMan458 - 2/23/13 at 12:17pm