Reciever HDMI picture cuts out

I had a customer with a similar problem. The cable company refused to give him a new box. The solution was to run component cables to the receiver. Each situation is different, but hopefully this is a low cost option you can try out. Good luck.

A different receiver may help, as there is no HDMI spec that each manufacturer must adhere to, instead the HDMI spec is a range of output requirements and from what I've seen, not all manufacturers adhere to the spec. Honestly, I'd rec'd getting a dedicated electrical line for your media room, but I know that can be an expense most would want to avoid. I think any HDMI testing equipment will tell you what you already know, when power turns on to your washer, the A/V receiver is being affected and dropping either the HDMI voltage level OR, more likely, it is sensing an interrupt between the HDMI equipment (your TV may be less sensitive to this and doesn't require the HDMI handshake, and because it's directly connected it only needs to sense the one unit that's directly connected to it, however the receiver is requiring the handshake as it tries to link the TV back to the blu-ray player/xbox/etc. and sync the two units back up with it as the middle man, so to speak).

Can you go component from the receiver to the plasma as well? That would be the next cheapest solution.

you are pushing the limits on the hdmi standard. thus any environmental noise may result in enough noise ingression in the signal path to cause you grief. You might try large gauge cables to see if it helps. Make sure any extra video processing in the receiver is turned off as that might help.

your best bet would be to use HDMI over Cat-6 with balun's, vs. long runs of hdmi cabling. The largest awg you can get is 24, and even then if you are getting interference from something, you would need to make sure that it has the Ferrette cores on both ends.

I have the same issue with a install I did for my parents. It was with a TX- SR506 Onkyo. I used a 50' HDMI from Key Digital. That is my last 50' HDMI run ever! I have noticed that the higher end receivers have less of a problem with this. if it is something with the amount of output power on the HDMI or what, I am not sure. I have tried using a booster and that did not work. I didn't try the Ferrette cores yet. I think I am going to have to resort to running a Cat6 and use Baluns.

You could try a redmere cable from monoprice. It's a powered cable and they work a lot better than regular cables. http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10255

well, I've never heard of an 'active' or 'powered' Hdmi cable. I looked at Monoprice, Redmere, Wiki, and even back to the source of that recommendation, CNET. And not one of them explains it , either. How is it "powered" ? Does it have a power plug? ( no, it doesn't) How is it 'powered' any differently than any other HDMi cable? (it isn't).

I have a 35' hdmi cable I bought from 'big river', Aurum, I think, for less than $20 , connecting my projector. Never an issue. Ferrite things at both ends, FWIW.

I see the 'Redmere' cables are thinner, but I don't really see that as a benefit. Thinner cables aren't 'better' for longer runs. Either the cable can do it or it can't. But there's really no such thing as a 'powered' Hdmi cable... unless you plug it into an electrical outlet, there's no more 'power' than any other properly designed and constructed hdmi cable, only a bigger price tag. And that's no indication of quality.

I see that they (Redmere) have partnered with Monster. Google it. That alone raises a big red flag for me.

YMMV,
Joseph

Active or powered HDMI cables, actually have an amp built into one end of them. It is actually something like this http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041914&p_id=2849&seq=1&format=2 Here for a bit last year, this http://rainbowfishcorp.com/ made a small discussion, in the next gen HDMI cable for very long runs.

For longer runs of HDMI cables, there are conversion units available which will handle runs up to 100 feet by packing the signal contents onto network cables and converting them back at the end to HDMI.

wow, i just got on here to post a topic regarding this and happen to see yours. here is my issue

i have a refurb Denon AVR-3313 that i just received last week. i have this SAME problem except i dont have anything running in house that does it (at least havent noticed). im using this 30' cable
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025503&p_id=9430&seq=1&format=2

i used it before the receiver was hooked up and no problem. added receiver and high speed 3ft hdmi from monoprice that goes from Comcast cable box to receiver. video cuts out for about 15 seconds but audio stays. doesnt matter what format is running (SD, 720, or 1080i). but i have not noticed this on my PS3, Xbox, or Apple TV.

well according to this old thread, its a known issue with Comcast boxes

http://forums.comcast.com/t5/XfinityTV-and-Equipment/S-A-8300HD-Audio-amp-Video-cuts-out/td-p/1308575

i have found several old topics google searching that pretty much say same thing. i checked with few friends who use FIOS with AVR's and they dont have problems.

I have an 8300HD which is the same as in the link and mine works fine through my Anthem MRX300 receiver and the Pioneer elite VSX-92TXH receiver I had before the Anthem.

do you have Comcast as your provider?

Yes I do. Since I have the same cable box and Comcast as my provider and mine works fine through the receiver maybe I can help trouble shoot the issue and compare how my box is set vs how others are set up. Maybe it's the way my box is setup of the software version it is running.

For devices connected to a UPS which doesn't seem to help, it might be interesting to unplug the UPS from the house current and see whether that helps. I'm thinking maybe the UPS is not reacting fast enough to a loss of power.

I am not an expert, but I have found that Comcast boxes are VERY sensitive to power supply changes. Where I live we often have "blips" in power, and the Comcast cable box is the most sensitive, and will cut out completely. In fact, the cable box is the only electrical component to fully "go out", though only for one second or so. Of course the box then resets itself (where you lose the "guide", "info", etc.)

It may be that the outlet, power strip/center, etc. where you have the box plugged in to is "marginal" for current draw. Whenever a "draw" occurs in your house (refrig, lights, etc.) there is just enough current "drop" to your cable box to "shut it off", if even only for a microsecond. Technically, a Comcast cable box is never "off", it is in a Standby state.

Before you rerun any connections cables, is it possible to plug the box into a dedicated outlet? It is also possible that your signal strength is marginal at this outlet/box. I have had a chronic issue with "audio drop" from my Comcast box, and after several tech visits, one finally admitted it is a "signal drop" (like a packet loss) that might require rewiring the entire house and line from the trunk line.

I personally do not think this is an HDMI cable issue, rather a power supply issue to the box. However, perhaps the marginal power supply issue is highlighting a "next weak link" in an HDMI cable or run.

So it's not just your cable box it's your other HDMI components as well? OK so then we can rule out it being the comcast box. How long is your HDMI cable run and what cable are you using?

You might have to... but as suggested, did you check / turn off all / video processing in the receiver (scaling etc)??? Further testing suggestion, turn off all incoming hdmi video sources to the receiver. Go to the tuner input / selection and also the receiver menu... it should display thru your hdmi connection on your tv. Go wild with your ON/OFF powering around the house. Does your display stay OK???