Originally Posted by cbc8000
I also followed the calibration settings posted by psythik
After doing some research and playing around with this projector some more today, I've come up with the following adjustments. Use these instead of the ones in my older post:Color Mode:
User 1 or 2Reference Mode:
Off (turn on if you ever need some extra brightness, but it throws contrast & color accuracy all out of whack)Noise Reduction:
0Gamma: 3 (with BrilliantColor off, this setting puts you almost spot-on with the sRGB gamma standard across the board)
Depends. Use this chart to determine what setting to choose
. When all the colors blend in at the 2.2 point, you've found the right setting (EDIT: Turns out this setting depends on your graphics card. AMD has better gamma with it set to 3, nVidia with it set to 4)HDMI Range: Enhanced (You'd expect this to artificially embellish the colors but on the contrary it gives you the normal color range)
Depends. Pick the setting that gives you the best blacks. (EDIT: After owning this projector for awhile I've learned that what setting you choose depends on the source. Any source that outputs full RGB should pick the Enhanced setting. Examples include PCs with AMD graphics cards and XBOXes with the Reference Level set to Extended. However, this setting will cause sources with a Limited RGB color range to appear washed out. Examples being Blu Ray players, PCs with nVidia graphics cards (though they can be set to output the full RGB range over HDMI with a registry tweak; PM me for more info), and XBOXes with the Reference Level set to Normal.)
Be sure to hit Save Settings
or they'll revert back to default at next boot.Color Management (these settings become available in the first tab when you turn BrilliantColor off)
74 (This one was a pain in the ass. It was a toss up between having the brights way oversaturated or having the darks slightly undersaturated. I settled on the latter. Human eyes suck at blue anyway, so getting this perfect isn't as important)Cyan Hue:
Those settings are probably the best you can do short of professional calibration. Keep in mind that it's almost impossible to accurately set hue values without a colorimeter, but I feel confident I've gotten them close enough to please most people. I obtained the hue values simply by eyeballing Photoshop's color picker
until the color transitions looked even and smooth, and the Sat/Gain values with this test pattern
. If anybody knows of a better way to go about this, let me know.
One thing I've noticed, is while you can't adjust any color settings in 3D, it keeps whatever settings you put them at in 2D mode. So make all of your adjustments in 2D.
For those of you worried about blacks, these post-"calibration" pics should put you at ease:
Every single level is discernable down to 0. You need to turn BrilliantColor off otherwise the top row won't be discernible, thus harming contrast.
Unfortunately blacks do suffer in 3D, but they still are discernable below reference level (16), so it's not a big deal. Ignore the brightness of the picture itself and just look at the boxes:
Here's the white end:
Ignore the brightness of the pic (since it's brighter in real life) and simply notice how every single step is discernable up to 255
It's hard to tell how accurate the first four bars are thanks to my phone, so you'll have to trust me when I say it's close to 2.2. You can see the darker ones a little bit easier. Pretty damn close to the sRGB standard
Squint your eyes and notice how the circle blends in with the background.
Response Time & Ghosting" Tests (read this for more info on how to interpret these results
It's pretty much instantaneous. Better than any LCD could do.
Check my earlier posts for results on the input lag test (there isn't any).
This'll give you an idea of the color loss going from 2D to 3D. I take back what I said earlier; the colors are in fact a bit washed out:
The following shot was taken through my 3D glasses:
With actual content, it's not as bad as it seems, and nothing that can't be fixed by creating a color profile from within your graphics card.Test patterns taken from: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/ (I know the site's designed for LCDs but it works great with any type of display, and the results show up better on my phone's camera than AVS Forum's own patterns.)
is there anything else i can do to optimize this pjd?
Under lamp settings, switch Lamp Mode
. This adds 2000 hours to the lamp life (if the manufacturer is to be believed) without affecting brightness too much. If the setting's greyed-out, try switching to 1280x720 (720p), adjusting the setting, then switching back to 1080p. I think this is a firmware bug.
Go into the Standby Settings and turn Power Saving On
(doesn't affect brightness. In fact, I'm not sure what it does but having a lower electric bill is nice). While you're there, turn Quick Power off Off
. This makes the fan run for another couple minutes after shutdown so that the lamp can properly cool off, extending life.
If your projector is overscanning a PC input, manually set HDMI format
. You may also need to go into your graphics card's settings and set the color mode to Full RGB.
Set My Button
to 3D Sync
, that way you don't have to go into the menu every time you want to toggle 3D.
on any time you step away from the projector for a short time, instead of turning it off. It is better for lamp life to do this than to restrike the bulb again.
Do not use the projector for more than 14 hours a day on average, otherwise your warranty will drop from three years to one, and your lamp warranty from 1 year to 90 days. They can tell if you reset the lamp timer by going into the service menu.
The manual's not included in the box; it's only available on the European site. Here's a direct link: http://www.viewsoniceurope.com/uk/assets/149/28077.pdfEdited by Psythik - 2/25/14 at 6:17pm