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VIEWSONIC PJD7820HD PROJ 3000 LUMENS 1080p 3D using cheap d-link Glasses less than $700 - Page 9

post #241 of 373
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayson73 View Post

Are you guys using ViewMatch mode or Dynamic Movie mode? Also, are you using Brilliant Color on or off?
In the Projector Reviews review, they suggest turning BrilliantColor on only because it makes the picture brighter, which isn't needed with this projector anyway. I would suggest going with Projector Central's advice if you care at all about color accuracy. Let me elaborate:

By turning BrilliantColor on, you're telling the projector to use the CYW parts on the wheel in addition to RGB. Since every device in existence only sends RGB values, the projector has to use additional processing in order to guess what the Cyan Yellow, and White values should be. Like I've mentioned before, this results in less accurate colors, especially thanks to the the additional white channel washing out the colors. For an example of what I'm talking about, squint your eyes at this test pattern with BrilliantColor on. If every other color setting is correct, you'll notice that the colors blend in at the 2.2 point, except for white, which is way too bright. Turning BrilliantColor off brings whites back down to the level they should be at.

I've also noticed that turning BrilliantColor on absolutely demolishes the lower end of blacks. This means you won't be able to make out the subtle details in dark scenes with it on.

Now if you still insist on using BrilliantColor, follow Nathan's suggestion and color in the white portion of the color wheel with a black dry erase marker. This will prevent the projector from washing out the colors too much, and will improve blacks as well. with Otherwise leave it off except under situations where you need the brightest picture possible.


Quote:
Projector Central said to use ViewMatch with BC off, but Projector Reviews said to use Dynamic Movie mode with BC on. Not sure if they prefer T3 or T4 color temp.

Can some of you share your settings?
From my experience it looks like the preset modes (Dynamic Movie, ViewMatch, etc.) simply determine what Color Management values are used along with whether or not the bulb brightens and dims kinda like a dynamic iris. ViewMatch, for example, sets all the Gain/Hue/Sat values for every color to 0. I do not know if ViewMatch adjusts bulb brightness, so if that's something you want, err on the side of caution and pick any Dynamic mode then use my calibration settings. Since you will be overwriting the preset color values with mine anyway, it doesn't seem to really matter which preset you pick. At least that's my theory if I'm correctly understanding how these presets work.
Edited by Psythik - 8/14/13 at 1:13pm
post #242 of 373
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptbcomposer View Post

As for ceiling mount, don't take my word for it. Like Psythik said earlier, set it to upside down mode and then hold the projector above your head upside down. The "top" of the projector (the physical bottom of the unit but top visibly) should be slightly higher than the top of the image.

This was my experience also, thank you for confirming. I measured one inch of drop in image height for every 50 inches of horizontal travel - almost flat. Sorry if I'm being stupid, but does the ceiling height matter in your case because of the ceiling fan? i.e. if your ceilings were higher then you could mount the projector such that it was lower than the fan? This would effect all projectors right?
post #243 of 373
Thank God for Newegg's 30-Day return policy! This hunk o' junk is going back! Going to get the BenQ W1070 instead. I could not get the dust out no matter where I shot it with compressed air. Must be the light tunnel peeling as I am now seeing bigger flecks of "dust". Poor materials!!
Here's a pic!

Edited by lazyboyzob12 - 8/14/13 at 3:19pm
post #244 of 373
How common is dust in the projector showing up on the screen? Since this is my first projector I may be overreacting. What do you guys think since you guys have owned many projectors before?
Edited by lazyboyzob12 - 8/14/13 at 3:54pm
post #245 of 373
Yeah the dust is in the light tunnel. I am not going to take it apart though. Rather send it back at this point. How upsetting. I was also noticing flashes of static when watching DVDs so I think this is a defunct projector.
post #246 of 373
It does seem like there are a high number of bad units in some fashion. You and me with the light tunnel, Psythik with a dead remote. I wonder if someone did a survey of people who bought this projector since it came out how high the fail rate is. Maybe even as bad as the RROD!!
post #247 of 373
How did you guys register for the one year Express Exchange service? I don't have any paperwork about it in the box.

Register here: http://www.viewsonic.com/us/product-registration

(thanks lazyboyzob12)
post #248 of 373
nxsfan: just register your unit on ViewSonic's website.

ptbcomposer: I dont think they are actually badly defunct, it is just really susceptible to dust getting in hard to reach places. I went from just one dust speck to almost 15. Three of which show up at the correct focus setting. Those specks then divide into fours (look like an X) due to the focusing. Just so annoying when you are a videophile like me and very anal about a $700 projector having uncleanable dust specks. I am thinking of getting the BenQ W1070 instead, but that unit has no filter either! Maybe I will just do an exchange! :-)
Edited by lazyboyzob12 - 8/14/13 at 7:23pm
post #249 of 373
Ptbcomposer: I was wondering if you can give more detailed info on how to undo the casing for this projector after removing the lamp cover. Do I have to undo every screw I see to undo the casing? Pull out the lamp? I need to get to the side of the lens that is inside the projector. People have an issue with DLP projectors where dust settles on the lens inside of the projector. So I need access to it to clean it.
post #250 of 373
Also I just found the dust! It's INSIDE the lens assembly!!! I see the specks in there. What the heck should I do now? You cannot remove the lens assembly can you?
post #251 of 373
Yes, you have to undo every screw. See what I wrote above about how to take the case apart.

Also, you can take the plastic part of the lens off easily. Undo the 2 screws that hold the zoom wheel on (1 on each side). move the zoom and focus wheels forward to reveal 3 screws holding the lens to the lens assembly. Air spray the s*hit out of the lens assembly. Be careful not to let any moisture stay inside; make sure it dries before you put it back together.

However, you should make sure you need to do this first. When I took my lens off to find the cause of my problem, it was perfectly clean inside the lens assembly. It was inside the light tunnel behind the color wheel and the stuff wouldn't come out unless I sprayed directly into it. To do that the color wheel had to be removed.
post #252 of 373
Yay! I got all but one speck off. I am happy again.
post #253 of 373
I threaded one of the screws on the zoom wheel but oh well as I was able to remove the lens assembly and spray into the open space behind it which I assume is the light tunnel then used a microfiber cloth on the lens. Put it back together and solved most of the dust problems. Only one speck left, which was the original speck, but I will not be anal about it. Just happy to have a blotch-free screen! Thanks ptbcomposer as you saved me from paying return shipping on the unit. 15 bucks... Yikes! Plus the one week waiting period without my PS3.
post #254 of 373
If the PJD7820HD and the Acer H6510BD are the same price, which would you choose?
post #255 of 373
I'm glad I could help!
post #256 of 373
On the dust issue-
I think it just makes me feel better, but I've been putting a t-shirt over my projector when I'm not using it to keep some dust out.
Hot tip. Take it off before you turn it on smile.gif. I'm thinking about making a real dust cover for it. Seems like adding a tin-foil patch by the projectors IR remote window might be a good idea.
post #257 of 373
I bought the official bag to store it. I just noticed it loved to suck dust in. How it got in the tunnel? I haven't a clue!
post #258 of 373
Has anyone powered a ChromeCast by using the mini usb port on the back of the projector? I tried it with a female to female usb adapter with one going to the ChromeCast and the other to the mini usb port. on the projector. No power. I'm wondering if it's my adapter or does the projector need to be in a different mode to power that port up? The ChromeCast works fine with most usb data ports on most newer tvs. I hate to run another cord for power if I just have a crappy adapter. I also can't find schematics for this projector to see if there is voltage there or not.
Sorry. Kind of geeky but it's specific to Viewsonic.
post #259 of 373
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptbcomposer View Post

It does seem like there are a high number of bad units in some fashion. You and me with the light tunnel, Psythik with a dead remote. I wonder if someone did a survey of people who bought this projector since it came out how high the fail rate is. Maybe even as bad as the RROD!!
Not to mention that I can't turn BrilliantColor on. No big deal, though, since it's not needed. Thankfully mine seems to be cooling properly so there hasn't been any light tunnel issues... yet.

By the way, ViewSonic finally responded to my emails and a new remote is on the way. So I guess the warranty's good for something after all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lazyboyzob12 View Post

Also I just found the dust! It's INSIDE the lens assembly!!! I see the specks in there. What the heck should I do now? You cannot remove the lens assembly can you?
I have the same issue. It makes parts of the image a bit blurrier than the rest but it's not bad enough to bug me just yet. At least I know it's a fixable issue when it gets worse!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayson73 View Post

If the PJD7820HD and the Acer H6510BD are the same price, which would you choose?
The Acer. Firstly because it has motion interpolation, secondly it seems to be the more reliable choice at the moment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DtommyD View Post

Has anyone powered a ChromeCast by using the mini usb port on the back of the projector? I tried it with a female to female usb adapter with one going to the ChromeCast and the other to the mini usb port. on the projector. No power. I'm wondering if it's my adapter or does the projector need to be in a different mode to power that port up? The ChromeCast works fine with most usb data ports on most newer tvs. I hate to run another cord for power if I just have a crappy adapter. I also can't find schematics for this projector to see if there is voltage there or not.
Sorry. Kind of geeky but it's specific to Viewsonic.
The USB port is designed for hooking up the projector to your PC so you can control the mouse with the remote. I believe the reason why you're not getting any power from the port is because it's designed to receive it, not send it.
post #260 of 373
:mad:why i can't Optimizing the image after change it to 1280x720 120hz (*using HDMI)?
post #261 of 373
My friend, why do you say its not a home theater projector. I am getting ready to order for my home theater. Can you kindly recommend with FH HD 3D projector in the same price range. Thanks, brij
post #262 of 373
It's not a home theater projector because it is way too bright to be used in a dedicated home theater room with no windows, unless you want a massive 300"+ picture. It's more like a TV replacement.
post #263 of 373
The calibrated lumens are around 1500, not that much different than the Viewsonic Pro8200. However, the max lumens are around 3000, so that is a lot different. The black levels will most likely suffer compared to projectors with lower brightness. The Viewsonic Pro8200 had very very good color with a YELLOW segment instead of a WHITE segment in the wheel.

I would buy another projector with a YELLOW segment (7-seg color wheel), but I would hesitate to buy a projector for home theater with a white segment. The yellow segment is a better middle ground than a white segment.
post #264 of 373
Thanks, brij.
post #265 of 373
Don't know if you guys know about this yet, but here's Viewsonic's parts website for this projector. Looks like the color wheel I need is available finally, but there's no pricing for it yet. I've been checking it for the last few weeks but the color wheel had always been "out of stock" which I take to mean wasn't available for sale yet.

http://store.viewsonic.com/html/vsc_ibePPSerialNumSrch.jsp?minisite=11174&site=&respid=52561&language=US

Psythik, the replacement remote is available for $24.99 if you still need one

type in the model number at the bottom then click go. On the next screen, click go also and you'll get the parts list. Leave it on "All Main Categories" and "All Sub Categories" to get the full list.


*update: they also apparently have the light tunnel for sale. They call it "light pipe" but what else could that be?
Edited by ptbcomposer - 8/28/13 at 9:19am
post #266 of 373
Psythik, I noticed you mentioned earlier in this thread (p. 4, I think) that the projector will do 1:1 pixel mapping in HDMI if you use RGB mode. I have a Mac, and like others I've found that the top & bottom few percent get chopped off, meaning it's not doing true 1:1, but switching to RGB mode on the projector does nothing except make the image all green and weird. Any thoughts on why that is? Oh, and it's still a green and weird image that's missing a few percent top & bottom. smile.gif I remember reading somewhere that using the DVI out from a Mac instead of HDMI forces it to be 1:1...? Any thoughts on whether that's truly the case? (If so, I guess Amazon's getting more of my business.)
post #267 of 373
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fifty6 View Post

Psythik, I noticed you mentioned earlier in this thread (p. 4, I think) that the projector will do 1:1 pixel mapping in HDMI if you use RGB mode. I have a Mac, and like others I've found that the top & bottom few percent get chopped off, meaning it's not doing true 1:1, but switching to RGB mode on the projector does nothing except make the image all green and weird. Any thoughts on why that is? Oh, and it's still a green and weird image that's missing a few percent top & bottom. smile.gif I remember reading somewhere that using the DVI out from a Mac instead of HDMI forces it to be 1:1...? Any thoughts on whether that's truly the case? (If so, I guess Amazon's getting more of my business.)

I noticed when using a PC that 1080p60 used 1:1 pixel matching but 1080p24 resulted in the image being scaled and cutoff. This occurred when using XBMC with the match frame-rate to source option enabled. Perhaps you can play with the display frequency to restore 1:1 matching?
post #268 of 373
Quote:
Originally Posted by nxsfan View Post

I noticed when using a PC that 1080p60 used 1:1 pixel matching but 1080p24 resulted in the image being scaled and cutoff. This occurred when using XBMC with the match frame-rate to source option enabled. Perhaps you can play with the display frequency to restore 1:1 matching?

No dice. Computer was already sending 1080p60. The amount of cropping remained the same for all the other refresh rates (50 and 24 Hz). A good idea, though; would've been nice if the fix had been that easy. smile.gif
post #269 of 373
HI all I have read this entire thread and purchased this projector. I was able to ceiling mounted using same mount and in same location. Picture is great used yhe recommended settings here with only slight change in gamma to suite my tastes. Again picture is great and approvement over my old Panasonic 200 720p.

Problem I am having is the image flex...not sure what the term is, but essentially the top and bottom right edge of image isnt square. Is this due to projector being aimed at an angle to screen and not perfectly perpendicular?

To get it perpendicular, I would need to move my mount etc. I was able to keystone it enough and zoom to a point were its bareable but I just wanted to see if it was the mounting location and angle throw that was the cause and not the projector itself.

If its the mounting and angle then I will stop worrying and move over to be perfectly perpendicular later
post #270 of 373
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistaHSH View Post

HI all I have read this entire thread and purchased this projector. I was able to ceiling mounted using same mount and in same location. Picture is great used yhe recommended settings here with only slight change in gamma to suite my tastes. Again picture is great and approvement over my old Panasonic 200 720p.

Problem I am having is the image flex...not sure what the term is, but essentially the top and bottom right edge of image isnt square. Is this due to projector being aimed at an angle to screen and not perfectly perpendicular?

To get it perpendicular, I would need to move my mount etc. I was able to keystone it enough and zoom to a point were its bareable but I just wanted to see if it was the mounting location and angle throw that was the cause and not the projector itself.

If its the mounting and angle then I will stop worrying and move over to be perfectly perpendicular later

I found that if my projector is not completely square to the projection surface, I end up with a distorted image that's not a rectangle. If you were to draw a line straight out from the projector lens to the screen, and if that line were forced to be straight out from the screen as well, then you'd see that the projector sits just below the bottom edge of the projected image and exactly in the center left-to-right. The keystone correction feature can help fix vertical placement but not horizontal (left-to-right) placement.

Is that any help?
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