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AT Screen build - size and options

post #1 of 24
Thread Starter 
Fellas,

I'm looking to build an AT screen to replace my fixed frame 120" at the moment. The room main viewing area is 13x22.' I've determined the best acoustics in the room are about 17-18' from the front (projection) wall. I'd like to position the AT screen about 35" or so from the wall to create ample room for my subwoofers. This will put me about 14-15' back from the screen in the primary LP. I'm going to be ordering the Seymour XD material, and I have a few questions for you guys who have done this before:

1) Size: I'm thinking anywhere from 120" to 130". I'm leaning at the moment toward the 130", which would be 113" wide. This puts me at a 34-37 degree viewing angle, which fits the THX standards. For those running something similar, does this sound about right?

2) Install material to frame: Keep it simple with staples or go to the grommets for the added cost and ease of install? I'd prefer to keep it simple with the staples, but if there are serious advantages to keeping the screen tight with the tensioning system using grommets, I'm all ears.

3) False wall coverings and panels: I'm planning on using GOM black fabric to wrap the panels on the sides and bottom of the screen. Any better or cheaper options out there or is this pretty much standard issue for fabric?

Thanks in advance,
Andrew
post #2 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Fellas,

I'm looking to build an AT screen to replace my fixed frame 120" at the moment. The room main viewing area is 13x22.' I've determined the best acoustics in the room are about 17-18' from the front (projection) wall. I'd like to position the AT screen about 35" or so from the wall to create ample room for my subwoofers. This will put me about 14-15' back from the screen in the primary LP. I'm going to be ordering the Seymour XD material, and I have a few questions for you guys who have done this before:

1) Size: I'm thinking anywhere from 120" to 130". I'm leaning at the moment toward the 130", which would be 113" wide. This puts me at a 34-37 degree viewing angle, which fits the THX standards. For those running something similar, does this sound about right?

2) Install material to frame: Keep it simple with staples or go to the grommets for the added cost and ease of install? I'd prefer to keep it simple with the staples, but if there are serious advantages to keeping the screen tight with the tensioning system using grommets, I'm all ears.

3) False wall coverings and panels: I'm planning on using GOM black fabric to wrap the panels on the sides and bottom of the screen. Any better or cheaper options out there or is this pretty much standard issue for fabric?

Thanks in advance,
Andrew

I think tab tensioning is a good alternative to staples. have you seen Brad Horstkotte's screen build thread?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

The screen material is held in place by metal bars attached to back of the frame; the metal bars are attached to the frame with screws every 6-8"; the cutouts on the screen material are where the screws go ("tabs" on the material slide under the bars in between the screws).
post #3 of 24
Thread Starter 
I actually have a Jamestown screen now that uses the same setup. It's OK, but mine seems to come loose from time to time with the vibrations from my nearby subs. biggrin.gif
post #4 of 24
LOL
post #5 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 

1) Size: I'm thinking anywhere from 120" to 130". I'm leaning at the moment toward the 130", which would be 113" wide. This puts me at a 34-37 degree viewing angle, which fits the THX standards. For those running something similar, does this sound about right?

What AR will the screen be. Whilst THX have viewing angles upto 40 degrees for HDTV (flat panels), that "36 degree" thing is actually for CinemaScope 2.39:1.
post #6 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post

What AR will the screen be. Whilst THX have viewing angles upto 40 degrees for HDTV (flat panels), that "36 degree" thing is actually for CinemaScope 2.39:1.

Sorry, should have specified the screen will be 16:9.

A few revisions to my original plan:

I'm going to make the wall about 24-25" out from the wall as that will give me enough room for the mains and the subs when turned sideways. This will bring the viewing distance to around 15' at the main position.

I'm open to alternative materials that would provide decent AT properties. I picked up a spandex sample from Joann to play with and I've got two samples of the XD fabric as well.
post #7 of 24
Dazian coated Celtic cloth tested well for color neutrality, better than Elite A4K, according to Chris Seymour

http://www.avsforum.com/t/842769/the-official-seymourav-center-stage-screen-thread/1950#post_22960708
post #8 of 24
Thread Starter 
Decided on the 130" screen size and tilted Seymour XD fabric. Going with a 1x4 poplar frame covered in Fidello black velvet. I'm thinking I will install grommets in the screen and use the o-ring technique to provide tension. Any tips/tricks out there before I dive in? biggrin.gif
post #9 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Going with a 1x4 poplar frame covered in Fidello black velvet.

Any tips/tricks out there before I dive in? biggrin.gif

Yeah. Don't use 1x4 . A 3/4" rise at the inside edge will almost always create a shadow line somewhere, depending on the PJ's position and angle of beam. Even if your PJ's lens is centered inside the screen, any ambient light that comes across / over the Trim will also create a shadow on the inside edge of the screen.

Now if you want something really easy to work with and that will NOT EVER warp, use 1/2" x 3.25" Primed MDF Base Trim. Along one edge the profile is cut to mimic a "Quarter Round" cap, or with some types the edge simply curves down to virtually flush with the surface it is applied over..

Here's a Tutorial: http://www.avsforum.com/t/865218/wrapping-black-velvet-on-trim-with-mitered-or-butt-joined-ends

Make it look nice!
post #10 of 24
Thread Starter 
^ Thanks for the info, MM! Is that MDF board available in 10'+ lengths?

Any tips on how to get the screen surface to sit flush along the trim when using the grommet/post install?
post #11 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

^ Thanks for the info, MM! Is that MDF board available in 10'+ lengths?

It is at almost any Home Depot, 16'ers actually.....so bring your needed length measurements + 7" and cut only the lengths you need. It is priced per foot.

Any tips on how to get the screen surface to sit flush along the trim when using the grommet/post install?[/quote]

I'd have to see a good example to consider in order to render and idea / suggestion.

A "overlay" would probably be best to stick with, and would "clamp over" the material, not "Butt up against". Butting requires absolute precision along every side and "bang on" Miter cuts at the end. Doable....iffin' ya kinow whatcher doin'.
post #12 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

It is at almost any Home Depot, 16'ers actually.....so bring your needed length measurements + 7" and cut only the lengths you need. It is priced per foot.

Any tips on how to get the screen surface to sit flush along the trim when using the grommet/post install?

I'd have to see a good example to consider in order to render and idea / suggestion.

A "overlay" would probably be best to stick with, and would "clamp over" the material, not "Butt up against". Butting requires absolute precision along every side and "bang on" Miter cuts at the end. Doable....iffin' ya kinow whatcher doin'.



Thanks again MM. I'm going to pick up some stock this weekend. Frame dimensions looking like 120" W X 70.5" for cuts of 120" x 2 W and 63.5 x 2 H. I'm planning on keeping it simple with standard butt joints.

Here is what I'm trying to achieve with the grommets/screen tension - but obviously with a wood/MDF frame:



I'm thinking I can stack another piece of trim on the frame where the screen sits to push it out a bit. Maybe something like a 1x2 or even smaller. I'd like to keep the frame as close to flush as possible against the wall though.
post #13 of 24
You cannot "Butt Joint" stock that has any detail or curve on one edge, unless your rip off the detailed edge and wind up with Square stock.
post #14 of 24
Doing grommets and the elastic for tension is a whole lot more work than stapling around the frame. Unless you really like the look or need the screen to be easily removable, stapling would be alot easier as long as you do it right so that the screen is wrinkle free.
post #15 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

You cannot "Butt Joint" stock that has any detail or curve on one edge, unless your rip off the detailed edge and wind up with Square stock.

Crap, forgot that now I'm looking at the MDF it has the edge already routed in. I can miter cut if needed, not a big deal. I'll likely need the full width of the stock to have room for the grommet/o-ring method if I continue with that path.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ahajr143 View Post

Doing grommets and the elastic for tension is a whole lot more work than stapling around the frame. Unless you really like the look or need the screen to be easily removable, stapling would be alot easier as long as you do it right so that the screen is wrinkle free.

The grommet/o-ring method is certainly alot more work which I've been evaluating. I don't plan on removing the screen unless there is an issue with something.
post #16 of 24
Ah, finally found this thread. I'll be following along!
post #17 of 24
Thread Starter 
A few updates:

-All (64) grommets installed in screen
-Screen frame is miter cut (primed MDF) and wrapped in Fidello velvet. I also put a beveled edge on the inside of the frame to avoid any shadowing. Although this effect is really not noticeable once wrapped anyway.
-Screen wall left and right frames are complete and ready to mount

Hoping by the end of this weekend I'll have the screen wall up and starting to paint it black. Also should be putting the frame together (using pocket screws, glue, and 6" corner braces" and installing the posts for the grommets.




post #18 of 24
Thread Starter 
Super happy with the way the screen is turning out. Got the frame together and the screen stretched.

A few thoughts around the tensioning I used - The grommet/o-ring method was a lot of work up front but once the grommets and posts were installed, it was REALLY easy to get it stretched and installed. The big plus is that it's now a one man (or woman job) to put it together with ZERO wrinkles the first time. I'm planning on putting together a screen build thread with the materials list and instructions so that others can duplicate if desired. I did quite a bit of research and compiled information from a variety of sources.

Some crappy cell pics for now - tomorrow I'll be installing the screen wall frame and hanging this bad boy!!!

Both side frames for the screen wall are done and I picked up the "Cross braces" this morning. We have some friends over now but will be back at work tomorrow AM.

Back side:





Seems pretty massive just chillin' on the wall waiting to be hung. smile.gif
post #19 of 24
awesome results! I am looking forward to the instructions thread.
post #20 of 24
Thread Starter 
Got the screen wall up and screen is hung. First thoughts - OMG!!! It's like experiencing a new system again. Finally got the speakers placed correctly and did some decent EQ/calibration. The screen upsize combined with the AT screen is an awesome combination - very happy with the selection. Special thanks to 351Carlo for getting my butt in gear and helping get it hung this morning. biggrin.gif

Next up is building out the left/right/top/bottom panels to finish off the wall.

Some pics with something other than my cell phone finally. smile.gif









post #21 of 24
great stuff.
are you going to do masking panels?
post #22 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by zheka View Post

great stuff.
are you going to do masking panels?

Thanks! Hadn't planned on doing any masking panels but I suppose that is always an option. cool.gif
post #23 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Thanks! Hadn't planned on doing any masking panels but I suppose that is always an option. cool.gif
It would be investing to see how you build yours. I've been considering various approaches for some time now. I am sure you will build the panels well before I make my mind wink.gif
post #24 of 24
Thread Starter 
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