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Official 2013 Sony R550A series TVs (KDL-xxR550A) --- 50", 60", and 70" - Page 42

post #1231 of 3974
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama29 View Post

My KDL-70R550A was delivered from Amazon today. The Air Freight Company showed up within the stated window, unboxed, attached the pedestal and placed it on the stand. They patiently waited while I connected the HDMI, LAN, and Antenna cables so I could check out the set.

I am coming from a Toshiba Regza full array local dimming set with great blacks. The R550 holds it's own in that regard. I have noticed no flashlighting, edge light bleed, or banding. DSE is not noticeable nor have I noticed any lack of uniformity. I have been using the out of the box custom setting with ECO sensor disabled. I ran a quick check using the AVS calibration disk and found black levels, contrast, color, and tint to be spot on. To my eye the warm color temperature looks fairly close to rec709, but we all know the eye can be deceiving. I will not know for sure until I break out the meters and check the greyscale.

I think the R550 provides the best overall picture quality as compared to any of the Sharp or Vizio 70" models I have seen this year. I have yet to see the "M" series in the 70" size.

3D has yet to be checked and I will get to it as I can. So far I have a very nice first impression of the Sony in our home...

The R550 is a May build.


Awesome, congrats.....enjoy the 70 inch Sony
post #1232 of 3974
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brooks Carter View Post

How a TV looks in store is never a good representation of how it will look/perform in your home!
Sure, I get that, but unless I want to "audition" multiple TV's in my home I'm kind of stuck with checking them out in the store with their settings and their rules! I guess my underlying question for anyone with experience with both, do the differences between the W802A and the R550A like X-Reality Pro vs. Clear Resolution Enhancer and Dynamic Edge LED vs. Edge LED justify the difference in price or are they the typical gimmicks to add a few $'s to the retail price?
post #1233 of 3974
I gotta tell this story...

I did a theater room rebuild for a client back in 2010 replacing everything that needed replacing to bring them up to HD, including some reworking of the room with paint and electrical. Two things that I discovered blew me away and I always recall those when I read reviews / opinions of folks just to keep it all in perspective. And here they are:

1) I told him that there was something wrong with his sound and that it seems to come and go. I said that sometimes your sound can blow the roof off and sometimes, I don't know, something's missing. He got pissed and said "My sound's fine. Best I've ever heard. Everyone loves it and you don't need to mess with it unless what you're doing with the video demands it." It didn't so I didn't mess with until.....
When I went to plug in my worklights for the painting (after having removed all the speakers from the room) I noticed that the outlet that one of his powered mains was on was dead...and then it wasn't...then it was. Turns out that the power outlet for that speaker was wired into a light switch for another part of the house. That means that he sometimes had 2 mains and sometimes not. I fixed that and the sound is now awesome - ALL THE TIME.

2) I took down the old SONY 200 pound CRT projector and when I got into it I noticed that it had connections for component video cables, but it was wired only with S-video. Just so happened that the guy that helped on the original 1999 install was there to lend me a hand taking it down as he wanted to use it at his place - don't ask me why. I asked him, "Why didn't they ever run component cables for this thing. You weren't getting the best it had to offer?" His reply, "Yea, we knew that but S-video was all the guy had on his truck for this long of a run and we just never thought to change it later."

Not a single person for over 11 years noticed either of these issues EVER.

I posted this for you to maybe reflect upon the next time you do or do not see something that is or is not there because someone else swears that they did or did not see the same thing or not. (Hopefully you're laughing)
post #1234 of 3974
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowlopho View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by tgm1024 View Post

Y'know, I've had two of them now (totaling 6 weeks) and I'm still not sure I understand it.

My PC's Windows Media Players found the TV in no time flat all on their own (as well as my cell phone, the cable box, the blu-ray player, probably the toaster for all I know...)

The TV was able to *PULL* from them just fine.  I'm not sure if there's any kind of preemptive *PUSH* possible to the TV though.

FWIW, I'm not sure I understand how the apps are organized.  e.g., I can never seem to find the youtube app for some reason.

lol I actually found a way to push the video to my tv yesterday. Funny that you should mention it:

right click the video file, play to -> kdl70r550a

 

I do like that the device named itself properly.  I still have two devices that have not, and I'm still not completely sure what they are.

 

On WinXP SP3 (32 bit), I don't see a "play to" option.  Hrmph.

post #1235 of 3974
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mp06011999 View Post

2) I took down the old SONY 200 pound CRT projector and when I got into it I noticed that it had connections for component video cables, but it was wired only with S-video. Just so happened that the guy that helped on the original 1999 install was there to lend me a hand taking it down as he wanted to use it at his place - don't ask me why. I asked him, "Why didn't they ever run component cables for this thing. You weren't getting the best it had to offer?" His reply, "Yea, we knew that but S-video was all the guy had on his truck for this long of a run and we just never thought to change it later."

 

The SD analog religions.  I was with you until right there.  If the S-Video is good, you can't see a difference between it and component.  Eh...what's that?  No, you can't.  Wait.....I just heard you again, so I'll repeat it.  No.  You can't.

 

:-P  Take that.  Back to digital....

post #1236 of 3974
anybody have any settings for playing xbox or ps3?? or do u just use game mode and standard or vivid default settings?
post #1237 of 3974
I have placed an order for the SONY 70 inch to swap it with the Vizio m701d I have. The flashlighting is just too much in a dark room and I've got to try something else. If the Sony KDL isn't up to par I don't know what I'm going to do. Perhaps the 65 inch ST60? Don't want to spend more than $2500 and want something at least 65 inches (prefer 70 though). I'm really hopping this SONY does the trick. I'll post again if it does. I may be one of the first people to have tested both the m701d and the KDL-70R550A in a dark room.
I will say that the VIZIO does a great job with bright scenes in a lit environment. However, in complete dark and dark scenes you WILL see flashlights shinning from the edges to create the center bright object. If you're putting the Vizio in a windowed room and will probably use it more in the day than evening it may be a perfect fit for you. The SONY KDL just happens to be cheaper right now on amazon so I'm pulling the trigger. Will post soon...
post #1238 of 3974
Quote:
Originally Posted by airecken View Post

UPDATED SETTING
Custom
backlight 3
picture 98
brightness 45
color 49
hue r1
sharpness 15
nose/mpeg noise reduction off
advanced settings all off, gamma 0
These settings look pretty good on my 50". The picture still seems a bit off though... it's hard to describe, but seems kind of darker than it should be but I can't figure out any way to correct it. Kind of like the gamma is wrong? I don't know...

I too have some bias lighting, but I used the Antec USB LED strips. Comes on and off with the TV fine (obviously) and is apparently D65 too. http://www.antec.com/soundscience/hdtv-bias-lighting.php One stripe along the top and another along the bottom, just above the speakers/stand mounts.
post #1239 of 3974
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkhelms View Post

I have placed an order for the SONY 70 inch to swap it with the Vizio m701d I have. The flashlighting is just too much in a dark room and I've got to try something else. If the Sony KDL isn't up to par I don't know what I'm going to do. Perhaps the 65 inch ST60? Don't want to spend more than $2500 and want something at least 65 inches (prefer 70 though). I'm really hopping this SONY does the trick. I'll post again if it does. I may be one of the first people to have tested both the m701d and the KDL-70R550A in a dark room.
I will say that the VIZIO does a great job with bright scenes in a lit environment. However, in complete dark and dark scenes you WILL see flashlights shinning from the edges to create the center bright object. If you're putting the Vizio in a windowed room and will probably use it more in the day than evening it may be a perfect fit for you. The SONY KDL just happens to be cheaper right now on amazon so I'm pulling the trigger. Will post soon...


Good luck with that. I predict you will have minimal problems with the Sony during dark scenes. I'm sure the Vizio is a good TV, but that auto dimming feature seems to cover up inherent issues.
post #1240 of 3974
Thread Starter 

This is frustrating.

 

As with all manufacturers, the settings (particularly the advanced ones) are horribly under-documented.

 

A calibration disk is of limited use unless it also refers to things like "clear white" and any of the dynamic black/constrast/color hooey.
 

This time around I am seeing what seems like an over-reaction in the TV to the slightest changes in saturation.  One channel is A-ok, and I'll easily bump into one that ends up with lavendar lips as if I didn't adjust anything at all.

 

Anyone else see this?  60R550A.

post #1241 of 3974
Quote:
Originally Posted by tgm1024 View Post

Both are possible.  There's no guarantee that one size isn't made by AUO, and the other size by Samsung, for all we know.  They stay tightlipped on this @#$% and only displayresearch seems to know much of what is going on.  I'm not one of those guys here.  Wish I could navigate the displayresearch.com site but it only confuses me.

That said, this thread has been filled with 70"ers from the beginning, and they seem to have been reporting the same issues, and then replacements, and then getting sets that they are very happy with.

Just return it for another one.  Aggravating as hell, yes, but I have to say once again: don't forget that these manufacturers DON'T put on their box: "mostly nice picture".  Return, return, return, without guilt.

Thanks for the encouragement about the return. I felt like I was being nit picky but then I also agree with someone earlier in the thread (possibly you) that said something to the effect of "You didn't pay $1400 for a TV with horrible flashlighting." Thankfully I purchased through Amazon so the return should be hassle free.
post #1242 of 3974
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by korruptedone View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by tgm1024 View Post

Both are possible.  There's no guarantee that one size isn't made by AUO, and the other size by Samsung, for all we know.  They stay tightlipped on this @#$% and only displayresearch seems to know much of what is going on.  I'm not one of those guys here.  Wish I could navigate the displayresearch.com site but it only confuses me.

That said, this thread has been filled with 70"ers from the beginning, and they seem to have been reporting the same issues, and then replacements, and then getting sets that they are very happy with.

Just return it for another one.  Aggravating as hell, yes, but I have to say once again: don't forget that these manufacturers DON'T put on their box: "mostly nice picture".  Return, return, return, without guilt.

Thanks for the encouragement about the return. I felt like I was being nit picky but then I also agree with someone earlier in the thread (possibly you) that said something to the effect of "You didn't pay $1400 for a TV with horrible flashlighting." Thankfully I purchased through Amazon so the return should be hassle free.

 

They were exceptionally nice to me.

 

They also told me something I don't see readily advertised.  Whether or not it says so, ALL TV'S *always* have a 14 day LPG (low price guarantee).  I don't know if that means just if they're price drops, or anyones'.  But when they dropped in price, I got $240ish back.  >poof<.  I'll get another $110 back if I return their superfluous blu-ray player.

post #1243 of 3974
Quote:
Originally Posted by tgm1024 View Post

This is frustrating.

As with all manufacturers, the settings (particularly the advanced ones) are horribly under-documented.

A calibration disk is of limited use unless it also refers to things like "clear white" and any of the dynamic black/constrast/color hooey.

 
This time around I am seeing what seems like an over-reaction in the TV to the slightest changes in saturation.  One channel is A-ok, and I'll easily bump into one that ends up with lavendar lips as if I didn't adjust anything at all.

Anyone else see this?  60R550A.

My new colorimeter isn't being delivered until later this week, but from what i played with it (70r550a)...

Basically everything in the advanced menu is processing gimmicks which should be turned off if you want accuracy.

"Picture" is interesting. It's not traditional contrast, it seems to simply increase brightness without messing with gamma or blowing out whites. You can safely push this to max if you want. (with how bright these TVs are now there really isn't a need for traditional contrast, that functionality has been pretty much moved to one of the advanced menu items.)

Also use "Custom" instead of "Standard" or "Vivid". At least for me in the "Game" scene standard has lower brightness than custom, even with settings exactly the same. Insane, I'm thinking this might be a bug instead of intended behavior. At brightness 50 custom will perfectly reproduce all black levels, but standard will crush up to 7 or 8 and brightness needs to be bumped up to 53 or 54 or so.

Color I got at 50.

I don't think you can completely get rid of the lavender lips. The defaults are off and there aren't fine grained controls. "Warm" with hue pushed to +4 green looks pretty good to me, but not perfect.

Complicating things are the silly viewing angles. Just moving your head 1 feet to the left or right makes quite a bit of difference in the lowest black levels, and move enough to the left and you get quite a bit of a magenta push exaggerating those lovely lips and murdering the skin tones...

With better controls (or defaults) this would be a fantastic tv, as it is now it's just great. Although if you need huge viewing angles this tv just isn't gonna work for you.
post #1244 of 3974
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrom View Post

These settings look pretty good on my 50". The picture still seems a bit off though... it's hard to describe, but seems kind of darker than it should be but I can't figure out any way to correct it. Kind of like the gamma is wrong? I don't know...

I too have some bias lighting, but I used the Antec USB LED strips. Comes on and off with the TV fine (obviously) and is apparently D65 too. http://www.antec.com/soundscience/hdtv-bias-lighting.php One stripe along the top and another along the bottom, just above the speakers/stand mounts.

That's how I feel too. I am using these settings, and everything looks a litte "Macabre", especially hair. What I noticed is the color looks great, but the non-key lit sides of faces are too dark, and hair is basically a black space. I tried changing the backlight to 5, but that didn't fix it.
post #1245 of 3974
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbitybob View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by tgm1024 View Post

This is frustrating.

As with all manufacturers, the settings (particularly the advanced ones) are horribly under-documented.

A calibration disk is of limited use unless it also refers to things like "clear white" and any of the dynamic black/constrast/color hooey.

 
This time around I am seeing what seems like an over-reaction in the TV to the slightest changes in saturation.  One channel is A-ok, and I'll easily bump into one that ends up with lavendar lips as if I didn't adjust anything at all.

Anyone else see this?  60R550A.

My new colorimeter isn't being delivered until later this week, but from what i played with it (70r550a)...

Basically everything in the advanced menu is processing gimmicks which should be turned off if you want accuracy.

"Picture" is interesting. It's not traditional contrast, it seems to simply increase brightness without messing with gamma or blowing out whites. You can safely push this to max if you want. (with how bright these TVs are now there really isn't a need for traditional contrast, that functionality has been pretty much moved to one of the advanced menu items.)

Also use "Custom" instead of "Standard" or "Vivid". At least for me in the "Game" scene standard has lower brightness than custom, even with settings exactly the same. Insane, I'm thinking this might be a bug instead of intended behavior. At brightness 50 custom will perfectly reproduce all black levels, but standard will crush up to 7 or 8 and brightness needs to be bumped up to 53 or 54 or so.

Color I got at 50.

I don't think you can completely get rid of the lavender lips. The defaults are off and there aren't fine grained controls. "Warm" with hue pushed to +4 green looks pretty good to me, but not perfect.

Complicating things are the silly viewing angles. Just moving your head 1 feet to the left or right makes quite a bit of difference in the lowest black levels, and move enough to the left and you get quite a bit of a magenta push exaggerating those lovely lips and murdering the skin tones...

With better controls (or defaults) this would be a fantastic tv, as it is now it's just great. Although if you need huge viewing angles this tv just isn't gonna work for you.

 

Thanks for all that.  However, I have to say that the viewing angle of the 60 just doesn't seem that bad to me.  I've definitely seen far far worse, and I've definitely seen the effect you're talking about on other screens.  Plus larger screens have more of it "off angle" anyway in basic geometry.

 

I don't like that you've discovered that the custom settings are changing the behavior of the individual settings.  Screen parameters should always always always be predictable no matter what!

 

The G4 setting doesn't surprise me to correct for the otherwise reddish yellow.  I've been @#$%ing with it off and on, and it's the PITA I remember from the 2010 Samsung C6300 I test drove and subsequently wanted to trebuchet into a swamp.

 

I know you were talking about a different thing, but as far as the "off angle magenta test" (full screen of magenta twisting to red or blue based upon angle).....I'm not sure that's a great test to start with....it's a tad misleading I think.  Somehow on my 60 it "fails" that test horribly quickly (much like that 1 ft you mention), but STILL (don't ask me why this is), everyday viewing doesn't seem to have the red push.

post #1246 of 3974
Possible "fix" for color temperature: warm

Select warm, then go into advanced settings and set Clear White: High.

I'm still evaluating it, but so far it appears to suffice as an acceptable middle choice between neutral & warm color temps.

Tried it?
post #1247 of 3974
Quote:
Originally Posted by tgm1024 View Post

I do like that the device named itself properly.  I still have two devices that have not, and I'm still not completely sure what they are.

On WinXP SP3 (32 bit), I don't see a "play to" option.  Hrmph.

i'm on windows 7 64bit with windows media player 12. I also only get the play to function to show up when the TV is on and connected to the network.

http://www.pavtube.com/guide/stream-videos-from-pc-to-hdtv-dlna.html

I wonder if the option is dependent on the version of windows media player you have installed
Edited by bowlopho - 6/19/13 at 2:43pm
post #1248 of 3974
I decided to dust off the i1Pro and Calman and check the new 70' R550 out. First up was a check of Custom/Warm at out of the box settings. 48fL, Greyscale with errors all well below a delta E of 3, a very flat gamma of 2.2, primaries all pretty close, and two out of the three secondaries spot on with the third fairly close. Color temperature was almost at D6500 erring slightly to the warm side. I ran through again selecting Custom/Neutral and found that the Color Temperature had jumped to around 9500 which of course made the Greyscale go way out of whack. However the Color and Gamma were still quite good.

For viewing in our house I dialed back the lumens a bit to around 42fL. I adjusted Contrast/Picture to just below where clipping was observed. Brightness did not need to be adjusted as the 50 setting was spot on. Red was adjusted using a 100% red field to 21% of the 100% white field per REC709. All in all very few adjustments were required and the ones that were required were very small. As a side note I checked out a bit of Avatar in 3D and Sony has done a excellent job with passive 3D implementation.

For those that might be interested in how my settings compare:

Custom/Warm
Backlight 3
Picture 94
Brightness 50
Color 49
Hue 0
Sharpness Min
Noise/Mpeg & Motion Flow off
Advanced Settings all off, gamma 0
post #1249 of 3974
Thanks for all the people who tried out my previous settings. I went back to the starting blocks with my ColorMunki and HCFR to try to get the correct color temperature while fixing the Gamma. My previous settings, as a few people have mentioned, I think had the gamma that was a little off compared to the standard setting. The prior settings also had a lower luminance level than the standard setting, so when comparing the two, it looked darker and a little grimmer. The target ftL of my last UPDATED setting was 60.

Here's the latest attempt. ftL is set to 71. I think it actually looks much better than the prior two settings, while preserving dark details and more accurate color. Again this is calibrated to REC709 standard.

Settings:
Picture Mode: Custom
Backlight: 7
Picture: Max
Brightness: 54
Color: 51
Hue: R1
Sharpness: 15 (anything above min causes moire artifact, but I think 15 looks a little better)
Color Temperature: Warm
Noise/Mpeg Noise: Off
Motionflow/CineMotion: Up to your personal preference or source material. (I like Motionflow High/CineMotion Auto 2 for standard material).
Advanced Settings: All Off, Gamma -1

Below are the graphs obtained from HCFR.






Also for more information, here's what happens to the color temperature with Clear White set to High.


If you try this setting out, please let me know what you think. If you haven't tried the D65 ambient LED backlighting, I also highly suggest that you try it out as well!

Thanks!
Edited by airecken - 6/20/13 at 12:01am
post #1250 of 3974
Just FYI--My internet wifi speed on my laptop is normally 25-30 mbps. On the Sony, using the built-in internet speed app, it only pulls at about 5-6 mbps. I tested this because I noticed some buffering while using streaming apps. Anyone else with buffering issues?
post #1251 of 3974
Quote:
Originally Posted by airecken View Post

Thanks for all the people who tried out my previous settings. I went back to the starting blocks with my ColorMunki and HCFR to try to get the correct color temperature while fixing the Gamma. My previous settings, as a few people have mentioned, I think had the gamma that was a little off compared to the standard setting. The prior settings also had a lower luminance level than the standard setting, so when comparing the two, it looked darker and a little grimmer. The target ftL of my last UPDATED setting was 60.

Here's the latest attempt. ftL is set to 71. I think it actually looks much better than the prior two settings, while preserving dark details and more accurate color. Again this is calibrated to REC709 standard.

Settings:
Picture Mode: Custom
Backlight: 7
Picture: Max
Brightness: 54
Color: 51
Hue: R1
Sharpness: 15 (anything about min causes moire artifact, but I think 15 looks a little better)
Color Temperature: Warm
Noise/Mpeg Noise: Off
Motionflow/CineMotion: Up to your personal preference or source material. (I like Motionflow High/CineMotion Auto 2 for standard material).
Advanced Settings: All Off, Gamma -1


Thanks!

Love these forums. Thanks for the settings. Initially, I was not a fan of the warm temp, but with your new changes, I like the picture even better. Much appreciated!
post #1252 of 3974
My moods change regarding Warm vs. Neutral in the color temp settings. When watching color material, I can easily adjust to Warm; it just seems better. But when watching black & white stuff, it looks too brownish as I prefer no color at all to my black & white material, so a Neutral setting seems to satisfy better.

We got our 60" set on Saturday and I've been playing with the settings since then, settling on slight variations of the ones posted by airecken just above. Minor fluctuations in a few of the settings - that's all.

All in all, I'm very happy with the set. I've always been a Sony fan and was somewhat miffed when I read that Sony was pretty much giving up its TV manufacturing. I was almost resigned to getting another brand when we went up to H.H.Gregg to check out what they had available. I was quite happy to find the 60" Sony - and finding it looking good in the store. After some comparisons with other sets, we settled on the Sony. I actually had no idea that it was a newer generation of sets - thinking instead that it was some sort of leftover, and was happy to find that Sony is still in the game.

It works well with my Sony receiver and Blu-Ray player, and I'm enjoying the Bravia Sync feature for the first time.

Harry
post #1253 of 3974
Quote:
Originally Posted by airecken View Post

Thanks for all the people who tried out my previous settings. I went back to the starting blocks with my ColorMunki and HCFR to try to get the correct color temperature while fixing the Gamma. My previous settings, as a few people have mentioned, I think had the gamma that was a little off compared to the standard setting. The prior settings also had a lower luminance level than the standard setting, so when comparing the two, it looked darker and a little grimmer. The target ftL of my last UPDATED setting was 60.

Here's the latest attempt. ftL is set to 71. I think it actually looks much better than the prior two settings, while preserving dark details and more accurate color. Again this is calibrated to REC709 standard.

Settings:
Picture Mode: Custom
Backlight: 7
Picture: Max
Brightness: 54
Color: 51
Hue: R1
Sharpness: 15 (anything above min causes moire artifact, but I think 15 looks a little better)
Color Temperature: Warm
Noise/Mpeg Noise: Off
Motionflow/CineMotion: Up to your personal preference or source material. (I like Motionflow High/CineMotion Auto 2 for standard material).
Advanced Settings: All Off, Gamma -1

aireckn,

Have you tried Cinema for dialing in your set? I compared Identical settings on Auto/General and Cinema and found the Cinema settings a bit more saturated and pleasing to my eye as compared to Auto or General. I have to say that Sony missed the boat on documentation of the Scene Select feature in the Manual.
Edited by Bama29 - 6/20/13 at 10:17am
post #1254 of 3974
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama29 View Post

aireckn,

Have you tried Cinema for dialing in your set? I compared Identical settings on Auto/General and Cinema and found the Cinema settings a bit more saturated and pleasing to my eye as compared to Auto or General. I have to say that Sony missed the boat on documentation of the Scene Select feature in the Manual.

 

WHY is cinema where it is and not up with Vivid / Standard / Custom?  And if you took all the Cinema options and dialed them into Custom, would they look the same?

post #1255 of 3974
Quote:
Originally Posted by tgm1024 View Post

WHY is cinema where it is and not up with Vivid / Standard / Custom?  And if you took all the Cinema options and dialed them into Custom, would they look the same?

I absolutely agree that Cinema as well as the other "Scene Select" modes should be co-located with Vivid/Standard and Custom. It makes finding the desired selection that much more difficult.

As an experiment I did put the same values into Custom and Cinema. They did not appear the same to me. Cinema seemed to maybe have a bit more saturation and appeared to be a bit richer to the eye. I need to get time to pull the meter out and compare readings to see for sure.

At any rate since there is really no explanation of Scene Select in the operators manual there are probably many who are not aware of the other picture modes available. When I first saw the R550 in an HHGregg and asked the salesman what picture mode it was in, he could only find the Vivid/Standard/Custom.
post #1256 of 3974
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama29 View Post

I absolutely agree that Cinema as well as the other "Scene Select" modes should be co-located with Vivid/Standard and Custom. It makes finding the desired selection that much more difficult.

As an experiment I did put the same values into Custom and Cinema. They did not appear the same to me. Cinema seemed to maybe have a bit more saturation and appeared to be a bit richer to the eye. I need to get time to pull the meter out and compare readings to see for sure.

At any rate since there is really no explanation of Scene Select in the operators manual there are probably many who are not aware of the other picture modes available. When I first saw the R550 in an HHGregg and asked the salesman what picture mode it was in, he could only find the Vivid/Standard/Custom.

For cinema settings the adv settings are grayed out. I wonder what sort of settings were changed in there.

For sharpness, do most of you keep it close to minimum? Going higher introduces more artifact. seems like keeping at Min is good
post #1257 of 3974
Quote:
Originally Posted by airecken View Post

Color Temperature: Warm

Also for more information, here's what happens to the color temperature with Clear White set to High.

Thanks for posting this!

I don't have a colorimeter, but I use snowy scenes with color & skin tones to judge the effects. Warm with clear white: off still looks a tad yellowish... but high and low settings seem to work for me.

Who knows. Maybe my eyes will adjust and I'll eventually turn it off....?
post #1258 of 3974
Hi,
Can any 70" owners tell me if the 3D actually pops out of the screen. I have the vizio 70" m series and while the 3d is excellent it does not have that pop that I was looking for.
Thanks for any info
post #1259 of 3974
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama29 View Post

At any rate since there is really no explanation of Scene Select in the operators manual there are probably many who are not aware of the other picture modes available. When I first saw the R550 in an HHGregg and asked the salesman what picture mode it was in, he could only find the Vivid/Standard/Custom.

When I first hooked my 70" up it auto put the scene into graphics with everything in the picture menu greyed out. Took me probably 10 minutes to finally find the scene select in the separate options menu. The terrible menus, no cms and horrible docs are reason enough for me not to buy a Sony again. I checked out Samsung's manual on their current lcd line and they put 10 point gamma in a $900 tv, and even their cheapest stuff has full rgb controls. Sony seems to be more interested in emulating Chinese junk... Shame, because the actual hardware is excellent.
post #1260 of 3974
Some sets do have a more 'pop out effect" but for the most part it's in the 3D movie itself. There are some different settings in the 3D set up itself also. In my experience it pops out pretty good in Life of PI and Avatar but I doubt you'd see a big difference between the Vizio and the Sony.
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