First build - Octo SI 18's with flat packs. - Page 5

Assemble it yourself??

I think.

Carp
Unless you have a specific goal or are just wanting to try something different then Identical is always best. THX always stresses the word Identical when giving recomendations for both speakers and subs. Even if you can't hear or measure the difference there will be one. The drivers have become cheaper due to the increased demand & ability to buy direct from SI. If you could purchase straight from Dayton Audio the price would go down. Same even goes for TC Sounds if they had a satilite store here that sold direct.
2 cents from
Chris
Edited by countryWV - 3/8/13 at 7:46am

Talking to Nick in depth, I'm convinced it comes down to engineering, logistical and manufacturing efficiencies he and Jacob have gained over their years in the audio game. As far as design differences, that's beyond me at this particular point in time man.


Yep. Like legos, but with glue. Or in Edoggs case, getting a completely assembled Lego Death Star and adding the Darth Vader lego man on top. Don't worry man, nobody cares "how" the boxes were constructed when you go full attack mode with the Quads!




Gorilla and I tried to pull that off back in December. Too bad one of the SI prototypes sustained some shipping damage on its way to my house or the data would be up… I was browsing the other day and (in addition to Ricci's write up on Data-Bass), it looks like SI has the Klippel measurements for the Dayton HO… http://stereointegrity.com/index.php?id=50

Those are the only two points of reference I have at the moment. Still want to punch UPS in the face for messing up our Head-to-Head…

How did you have the four configured on the amp? One channel for four? Or were you running two per channel?

Are you going to need a second amp?

Carp - Did you get D4's? One channel pushing 4 of those badboys is no where near enough to get them to potential.

I can tell you that two of my subs (4 daytons) take everything my crown xls5000 has to give in bridged mode.
Edited by Gorilla83 - 3/9/13 at 6:42pm

One channel for four. I didn't see the protect light and honestly find it very hard to believe it'd come on for two reasons. One is that those lights bleed a little bit, so it's easy to think you see one from across the room when you don't (or to just see the wrong light completely). Two, we were pushing the Daytons way harder (in terms of frequency of clip lights) than we were the SI's and we never saw that with the Daytons. We didn't try to repeat it, obviously.

Both my crown and the cv are power spec'd at 1000hz. They still have a fair amount of power down low, but I wouldn't bet on getting 625 per driver, especially in the sub 20hz region. After comparing against my clone amp this became a bit more obvious.

Either way with all 8 running you are likely to have more headroom than is reasonable.
Edited by Gorilla83 - 3/10/13 at 5:37am

Maybe one on each side of the Center?

Awesome. HTFU, we're waiting...

OK, help me understand that graph. I get that a 20db drop from 25hz to 20hz is NOT good, but do you want to bring it (around 25hz) down or up (around 20hz)?

What are you using for EQ? Once you have all 8 in the mix, you'll have enough headroom to bring down 30-60 range and bring up the lows. I think having them 2 or 4 up front might still work out for you. Hard to tell before all are in place. But you can do a lot with a minidsp, for example, with as much headroom as you'll have.

Prior to dismissing any scenario, some simple manipulation in the time delay between the two sets could easily yield great results (or just as easily not ).

In addition to what FOH said, moving them out slightly from reflective surfaces (walls) might help, too: 4-8 inches.

Perhaps also try a single sub or combinations therein to find out where specific response profiles (and room modes) are most excited.

Experiment and see what you can come up with - lots of options to explore, and it's worth it to get placement right, then delay, then EQ if necessary.

I think the rear sub's first placement showed, is pretty close to a winner. I think some small adjustments to the fronts may be in order, but again close there too. I'd try time domain first, as one can easily see the 1/4 wave distance of the 50hz and up range is what's at play. The bottom can be brought up with what boost needed.

Time domain is key here, IMO.

That last graph looks great to me.

You're not using any LT boost, correct?

Are you basing this on the sub 30hz stuff? This is all handled via LT boosting. I'd suspect Audyssey could extend that last response, the "piss off the wife" position. Audyssey is very adept at bottom end boosting and compensation.

The last response you showed looked pretty good through the upper modal region covered by the subs.

No, it's not that much better.

As long as the quadrants are driven, put them where you want where they work best and where you'll like them, because I'm guessing the response will be quite good with some manipulation in time domain.