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Official Panasonic S60 Series Discussion Thread - Page 122

post #3631 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeLfMaDe111985 View Post

What is ABL? That's the auto brightness feature for plasma right? I've tried to research this but it's not in my terms of language lol. Can someone explain briefly what ABL actually is on this S64 and why some people are complaining about it??
Google Automatic Brightness Limiter
post #3632 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by fibonacci3 View Post

I'd like to post some pictures showing my red push........but I haven't figured out how to do this. Can anyone explain how to upload and/or embed one or more pictures in a post?

fibonacci3:

Answer:

  1. While you are in the editing mode to reply or post, you will note an icon with a box and picture in it. That is the "IMAGE" icon. Click on it.
  2. The next screen is "Embed an Image."
  3. Click on "UPLOAD FILES."
  4. Search through your computer to find the image you want to imbed.
  5. Once you click the image you want to imbed the program will upload your file. You then have 3 choices how you want the image displayed in your post: small, medium or large. Make a choice.
  6. Enter SUBMIT
  7. You will note than a “bracketed” notation starting with IMG ALT and ending with IMG before the end bracket, will appear. That will be your image. To verify it you can hit the “preview” button below the posting editor to see your image in your post.
  8. Continue with the above procedure for as many images as you would like to add to your post.


Good Luck.
post #3633 of 6832
Is there a widely-agreed upon method of breaking in these TVs as fast as possible? I'd really like to do some gaming on mine, and 100 hours of normal viewing with 16:9 content would take me a couple months or so.

I was under the impression that it would be a good idea to set the panel to loop the break-in slides with D-Nice's settings for 100 hours or so before using the set, especially since I plan on doing gaming on the set. However, it appears the first post says that these slides should not be used that way - http://www.avsforum.com/t/1466472/2013-panasonic-settings-issues-thread . Why is that, will doing what I suggested harm the TV? What's the suggested plan of attack for bringing my panel up to speed? I'd like to be watching movies (including 2.39:1 content) and TV with Fairchild's settings and gaming as soon as possible.

Thanks!
post #3634 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by RWetmore View Post

Are you sure you've arrived at a good greyscale (i.e. no red push)? And that the tint is properly calibrated? There shouldn't be any major red bias on this set.

I'm not sure what you men by a 'good greyscale" I haven't done any calibration myself but I've tried all Fairchild settings and many others posted on this forum. I've also tried seat of the pants tweaking some of the settings on a stopped DVD image. The only somewhat significant reduction in the red bias is when I lowered color to 40-44 and increased tint to +9. However this ended up giving a pretty flat picture.

If I knew how to upload/embed a picture in a post I would show an example of a screen picture showing what I think is red bias. As you say facial images of studio OTA broadcast could be heavily skewed due to makeup, lighting, etc. However my 'absolute standard' are images that I have personal real world experience with....such as blue sky, ocean water color. Some of my blue sky pictures have a purplish tinge and ocean water looks dark.
post #3635 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig-Paul View Post

fibonacci3:

Answer:

  1. While you are in the editing mode to reply or post, you will note an icon with a box and picture in it. That is the "IMAGE" icon. Click on it.
  2. The next screen is "Embed an Image."
  3. Click on "UPLOAD FILES."
  4. Search through your computer to find the image you want to imbed.
  5. Once you click the image you want to imbed the program will upload your file. You then have 3 choices how you want the image displayed in your post: small, medium or large. Make a choice.
  6. Enter SUBMIT
  7. You will note than a “bracketed” notation starting with IMG ALT and ending with IMG before the end bracket, will appear. That will be your image. To verify it you can hit the “preview” button below the posting editor to see your image in your post.
  8. Continue with the above procedure for as many images as you would like to add to your post.



Good Luck.

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.! That's just the kind of detailed instructions I needed, not having done this before.
post #3636 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by Contuzzi View Post

Just got a 65" S60 and love it, however the ABL really does bother me.

I see no mention of a service menu in this thread, is there really no service menu option to at least reduce the effect at all?
No. It's built-in to the set to keep the panel from melting (slight exaggeration).

Quote:
Originally Posted by t-town oil View Post

Lots of players other than oppo are "better" than the ps3. My opinion of course.
Agreed. I think the PS3 is a pretty loud and slow player by comparison to many other modern players. I have used the DMP-BT110 with my ST30 to now the S60 and I couldn't be happier. Loads blu-rays fast, responds quickly, and has a flawless 24p reproduction. Very little artifacts with motion as well when torture testing with the Disney WoW motion tests.

Take a look at AVS's own blu-ray review list, and simply pick one from the list.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeLfMaDe111985 View Post

I'm watching my 5020 btw and I hope the s64 blacks and contrast are close to this magical creature i own. That's why the VT60 was and still is in my head but its a lost cause cuz of price.

On a completely different note...am I missing anything with not getting a 3D TV or is it more of a marketing gimmick cuz it doesn't seem to be as popular anymore.
Gimmick, unless you just really like watching 3D all the time with those glasses on your head. Of course, we've already had correspondence with this. smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeLfMaDe111985 View Post

What is ABL? That's the auto brightness feature for plasma right? I've tried to research this but it's not in my terms of language lol. Can someone explain briefly what ABL actually is on this S64 and why some people are complaining about it??
The phosphors in the set are fully activated whenever a full white signal is reproduced. When it's local, a.k.a. in normal content, like a sun in the corner of the screen or street lights, they will come off as full-white and be very bright. However, special-case scenarios, like that death scene in the last Harry potter movie, web surfing with all-white backgrounds, or commercials with full white backgrounds, you'll run into ABL, where it literally dims the entire screen a bit to take off some of the stress of every single phosphor fully activating on the set. Higher end sets with more capable, load-bearing phosphors (if that's even the technical term), have a less aggressive ABL, and can reproduce more full-field whites.

Hope that's plain enough english.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DWells55 View Post

Is there a widely-agreed upon method of breaking in these TVs as fast as possible? I'd really like to do some gaming on mine, and 100 hours of normal viewing with 16:9 content would take me a couple months or so.

I was under the impression that it would be a good idea to set the panel to loop the break-in slides with D-Nice's settings for 100 hours or so before using the set, especially since I plan on doing gaming on the set. However, it appears the first post says that these slides should not be used that way - http://www.avsforum.com/t/1466472/2013-panasonic-settings-issues-thread . Why is that, will doing what I suggested harm the TV? What's the suggested plan of attack for bringing my panel up to speed? I'd like to be watching movies (including 2.39:1 content) and TV with Fairchild's settings and gaming as soon as possible.

Thanks!
You could always run the Disney WoW pixel flipper whenever you're not watching the set, or, just do the slides. There's been many long and numerous discussions on why D-Nice uses the term "panel prep" and makes note to not call it a panel "break-in". The reason being, for his purposes, the slides are meant to literally "prepare" the panel for his calibrated settings (why he still only has the ST60 settings up I don't know. Probably because he is touring doing calibrations).

HOWEVER! His slides also go through a gradually ramping grey curve and full-field RGB slides, which can also "prep" a panel pretty effectively for other settings. Fairchild's settings look great on my set, and I plugged them in as soon as I was done with 100 hours of D-Nice slides). D-Nice doesn't want to call doing this a break-in since this is usually associated with reducing a TVs resistance to IR, which isn't what the slides were designed to do.

But look, just get done with 100 hours of prep in any way you see fit. After that, plug in some different settings to see which you liked best. For the first 500 hours, just be moderately careful to not watch too much (more than 2+ hours at a time) sports, or camp in the corner of a map with a sniper rifle scoped-in. Depending on your playstyle, this can be difficult to do. wink.gif

Also, invest in the Disney WoW. It's worth it for the pixel flipper alone, especially since you want to game on the set.
post #3637 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Matadurr View Post


But look, just get done with 100 hours of prep in any way you see fit. After that, plug in some different settings to see which you liked best. For the first 500 hours, just be moderately careful to not watch too much (more than 2+ hours at a time) sports, or camp in the corner of a map with a sniper rifle scoped-in. Depending on your playstyle, this can be difficult to do. wink.gif.

Is that right? eek.gif My 100 hrs of slides will finish up on Fri evening but I can't watch a full football game on Saturday? GRRRR tell me it ain's so EL...
post #3638 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by IDRick View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by El Matadurr View Post


But look, just get done with 100 hours of prep in any way you see fit. After that, plug in some different settings to see which you liked best. For the first 500 hours, just be moderately careful to not watch too much (more than 2+ hours at a time) sports, or camp in the corner of a map with a sniper rifle scoped-in. Depending on your playstyle, this can be difficult to do. wink.gif.

Is that right? eek.gif My 100 hrs of slides will finish up on Fri evening but I can't watch a full football game on Saturday? GRRRR tell me it ain's so EL...
I put the 50" S64 on repeat slides after entering the settings from the CNet calibration of the 50" S60. About 21 hours later I watched a full pre-season NFL game. When I restarted the slides I checked for image retention and couldn't find any.

You could make sure that your set isn't more susceptible to IR than the one I have by checking at the the end of each quarter. You could put something safe on for halftime.

Since you don't have a ST60 display, there is no point in waiting 100 hours before entering settings from CNet or any others that are from calibrating a S60 or S64.

There are a lot of forum myths about the whole idea of breaking in a set, and avoiding "damage". Leaving ESPN on while you go on vacation might damage a TV. If you watch a football game, and there is IR afterwards, run something like a Pixar full screen movie on repeat over night. If the IR still visible watching the next program the following day, then you may want to exchange the set.

IR is supposed to come and then go. Some sets don't show it at all, and other sets take a wide range of time to get ride of IR once it has occurred.

Our set will have 125 hours on it when we watch another game on Thursday night. I'll report if there is any IR after the game. smile.gif
post #3639 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by IDRick View Post

Is that right? eek.gif My 100 hrs of slides will finish up on Fri evening but I can't watch a full football game on Saturday? GRRRR tell me it ain's so EL...
...I'm just erring on the side of caution. Chances are, you will have---at most---minor retention after the football game. It will go away on its own, and even quicker by running the pixel flipper for a few hours.

If it's been said once it's been said a million times: a plasma television, just like any quality appliance, has to be maintained, especially in the first few hundred hours of the panels' life. The general rule of thumb (and opinions can vary even in this) is to avoid static content in the first 200 hours, exercise caution during the first 500, and keep an eye on your content usage in the first 1000 hours. After that, your set is essentially good to go in terms of IR resistance.

EDIT: Reason for my words of caution, I had some pretty intense IR on my S60 back in May. Granted, part of it was due to a faulty panel and a terrible HUD in a game, but it wouldn't have happened if I played it a bit more safe.
Edited by El Matadurr - 8/28/13 at 10:06pm
post #3640 of 6832
Thanks again El Matadurr...always a huge help. Doesn't seem like the ABL will be o bothersome for me..what is annoying is local dimming my 32 inch LCD is doing it and it messes with my head to much.
Anyway...this S64 sounds great. I was gonna go 50 and save some money but 65" is to amazing to pass up.
My guess is that since the st60 is like last VT50 I'm guessing the S64 is like last years ST50!!
Edited by SeLfMaDe111985 - 8/29/13 at 11:20am
post #3641 of 6832
hey guys. been reading through this thread and my head is about to explode! i just set up the S64 in my living room last night. First thing I noticed was how dark the picture was. Picture quality was awesome but I feel like there was a lot of shadowing going on. I came from a Samsung LCD that was pretty bright. Anyway, what should I be doing first? Is there a proper way to burn in the TV? does it even need to be? is there a certain calibration I should start off with? any help would be greatly appreciated and sorry if you guys get this question every other day. THANKS!
post #3642 of 6832
A lot including myself have followed d-nice's procedure. First page and scroll down to the link he provides. Excellent starting point for you
post #3643 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Matadurr View Post

...I'm just erring on the side of caution. Chances are, you will have---at most---minor retention after the football game. It will go away on its own, and even quicker by running the pixel flipper for a few hours.

If it's been said once it's been said a million times: a plasma television, just like any quality appliance, has to be maintained, especially in the first few hundred hours of the panels' life. The general rule of thumb (and opinions can vary even in this) is to avoid static content in the first 200 hours, exercise caution during the first 500, and keep an eye on your content usage in the first 1000 hours. After that, your set is essentially good to go in terms of IR resistance.

EDIT: Reason for my words of caution, I had some pretty intense IR on my S60 back in May. Granted, part of it was due to a faulty panel and a terrible HUD in a game, but it wouldn't have happened if I played it a bit more safe.

I do remember your initial issue with the S60 this spring and I agree it is important to be very careful during the early life of a plasma. I also admit that I'm a complete newbie relative to plasmas and have read such a wide variety of comments for the break in period that I'm a bit overwhelmed. For example, you say avoid static content for the first 200 hrs. Are you meaning no channels with logos for 200h? If that's true, then that means I should only run slides for the first nine days since all the cable HD stations I watch have logos. I probably won't be able to resist watching the Boise State game on Saturday night though. My plasma phosphors are gonna have to put on their big boy pants for few hours so I can watch real tv.... biggrin.gif I do have the old lcd around so it won't be a big chore to go nine days with slides (+one BSU game).

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I put the 50" S64 on repeat slides after entering the settings from the CNet calibration of the 50" S60. About 21 hours later I watched a full pre-season NFL game. When I restarted the slides I checked for image retention and couldn't find any.

You could make sure that your set isn't more susceptible to IR than the one I have by checking at the the end of each quarter. You could put something safe on for halftime.

Since you don't have a ST60 display, there is no point in waiting 100 hours before entering settings from CNet or any others that are from calibrating a S60 or S64.

There are a lot of forum myths about the whole idea of breaking in a set, and avoiding "damage". Leaving ESPN on while you go on vacation might damage a TV. If you watch a football game, and there is IR afterwards, run something like a Pixar full screen movie on repeat over night. If the IR still visible watching the next program the following day, then you may want to exchange the set.

IR is supposed to come and then go. Some sets don't show it at all, and other sets take a wide range of time to get ride of IR once it has occurred.

Our set will have 125 hours on it when we watch another game on Thursday night. I'll report if there is any IR after the game. smile.gif

You bring up excellent points. I plan on watching the game live rather than recording on a dvr and fast forwarding through the commercials. Good tip to check for IR at end of each quarter. Very easy to do by simply running slides and see if any logos are present on light slides, correct? I do like the thought of aging the phosphors equally during the early life of the tv. Football games account for a major portion of my annual tv viewing which means the s64 has gotta be ready to roll for a football bonanza on Sept 8th!

The cnet settings for the s60, doesn't that include setting contrast at 100? Most of the other settings I see are lower, ~80. "OOPS, my bad, Cnet used 83 as their contrast setting while Consumer Reports used 100 for contrast..".

BTW, I'm on business travel so it was easy to let the tv roll with the slides while gone. My wife is at home and she checks it periodically to make sure slides are scrolling throughout the day.
Edited by IDRick - 8/29/13 at 9:21am
post #3644 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by newbieboomboom View Post

hey guys. been reading through this thread and my head is about to explode! i just set up the S64 in my living room last night. First thing I noticed was how dark the picture was. Picture quality was awesome but I feel like there was a lot of shadowing going on. I came from a Samsung LCD that was pretty bright. Anyway, what should I be doing first? Is there a proper way to burn in the TV? does it even need to be? is there a certain calibration I should start off with? any help would be greatly appreciated and sorry if you guys get this question every other day. THANKS!

I'm certainly not an expert and have only had my set a week from today, but I did run the slides for 4 days straight and then put in Fairchild99 settings with the exception of W/B, Color Detail (still at default) and Contrast which I set to 47, which was more than enough, for me. Picture was very good/great. He recommends this for newer sets with minimal hours. Yesterday, I put in the CNET settings just for kicks (except Contrast), and their set when calibrated for the review, only had 130 hours. So, more in line with my hours and it also was very good. A bit warmer than FC99 but still great.

Edited for bad info.
Edited by Patrick Murphy - 8/29/13 at 9:14am
post #3645 of 6832
Thanks for the reply Patrick! I haven't changed the power saving option but will when i get home. Are you saying try fairchild's calibrations (cinema 8/14 update) minus w/b, color detail, and contrast because the set is new and with 1 hour burn in? If so, I'll try this along with cnet's recommendation. Do you have a link to the slides?

Appreciate the help and patience!
post #3646 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by newbieboomboom View Post

Thanks for the reply Patrick! I haven't changed the power saving option but will when i get home. Are you saying try fairchild's calibrations (cinema 8/14 update) minus w/b, color detail, and contrast because the set is new and with 1 hour burn in? If so, I'll try this along with cnet's recommendation. Do you have a link to the slides?

Appreciate the help and patience!
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1466472/2013-panasonic-settings-issues-thread
post #3647 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by newbieboomboom View Post

Thanks for the reply Patrick! I haven't changed the power saving option but will when i get home. Are you saying try fairchild's calibrations (cinema 8/14 update) minus w/b, color detail, and contrast because the set is new and with 1 hour burn in? If so, I'll try this along with cnet's recommendation. Do you have a link to the slides?

Appreciate the help and patience!

You must have seen my post before I edited it. After I posted it I turned on the TV and messed around with it and It was the PICTURE>CATS>ON setting that immediately turned the picture very dark. I didn't see anything happen when I toggled the Power Saving option from Saving to Standard, but it seems to be recommended to change it to Standard from the notes that I jotted down from reading this thread.

There are 2 places to turn off CATS; in the Picture menu and the Setup menu>Eco Navigation, where you'll also find the Power Saving setting.

Yes, try FC99's cal, can't hurt.
post #3648 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by newbieboomboom View Post

Thanks for the reply Patrick! I haven't changed the power saving option but will when i get home. Are you saying try fairchild's calibrations (cinema 8/14 update) minus w/b, color detail, and contrast because the set is new and with 1 hour burn in? If so, I'll try this along with cnet's recommendation. Do you have a link to the slides?

Appreciate the help and patience!

You can leave the contrast at default 85 or lower it to fairchild's 80 recommendation. Anything lower would be too dim IMO.
post #3649 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doodis View Post

So, my question is this - are dark scenes difficult to make out on the S60/S64 since it doesn't have the "brightness" of an LED? I know this is subjective and maybe difficult to answer, but I'd love to hear some thoughts before I make my decision (which I'd like to do soon before inventory is all gone). Thanks.

Logic might make you think that the whole picture would be dark, but that is by no means true. In fact, I find there is no problem watching content during the day. As I said, I have three standard windows and two patio doors opposite the TV and I have no issues. It's no worse than the glossy LED screen I had, and I just prefer them to matte LED/LCD screens. The S64 may not get as bright as my LED, but I had my picture set to a modest brightness anyway. But back to your question: the TV does a good job of presenting shadow detail. I've watched Skyfall and The Amazing Spider-Man on Blu-ray and I noticed no issues. I have also watched some dark TV dramas, including House of Cards on Netflix in HD and I cannot complain. I'm impressed, in fact. The TV can get dark when it needs to, but it isn't crushing blacks from what I am seeing. I'm using D-Nice's calibration settings for my viewing (see post #1). Honestly, my main complaints are minor flashing and line bleeding, which I notice often. Last night watching a chapter of House of Cards, Zoey Barnes was sitting in the office and the overhead florescent lights on screen were causing some distracting line bleeding. It bugs me, but I'm learning to tolerate it.
post #3650 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by IDRick View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I put the 50" S64 on repeat slides after entering the settings from the CNet calibration of the 50" S60. About 21 hours later I watched a full pre-season NFL game. When I restarted the slides I checked for image retention and couldn't find any.

You could make sure that your set isn't more susceptible to IR than the one I have by checking at the the end of each quarter. You could put something safe on for halftime.

Since you don't have a ST60 display, there is no point in waiting 100 hours before entering settings from CNet or any others that are from calibrating a S60 or S64.

There are a lot of forum myths about the whole idea of breaking in a set, and avoiding "damage". Leaving ESPN on while you go on vacation might damage a TV. If you watch a football game, and there is IR afterwards, run something like a Pixar full screen movie on repeat over night. If the IR still visible watching the next program the following day, then you may want to exchange the set.

IR is supposed to come and then go. Some sets don't show it at all, and other sets take a wide range of time to get ride of IR once it has occurred.

Our set will have 125 hours on it when we watch another game on Thursday night. I'll report if there is any IR after the game. smile.gif

You bring up excellent points.
They are entirely based on what I've learned here at AVS. wink.gif
Quote:
I plan on watching the game live rather than recording on a dvr and fast forwarding through the commercials.
I used the DVR but watched the commercials during the first half, skipped half time, and finished up skipping the rest of the commercials. No IR. smile.gif

Keep in mind that I'm depending a bit on Costco's return period if something unexpected happens.
Quote:
Good tip to check for IR at end of each quarter. Very easy to do by simply running slides and see if any logos are present on light slides, correct?
Right. But if you use the DVR, then you don't need to hurry your check for IR, and you can do it at any point in the game. In six years of plasma ownership I've never spotted a bit of IR. There are a few people who report it in the first five minutes of ownership. The reality must include the whole range in between. Be safe.
Quote:
I do like the thought of aging the phosphors equally during the early life of the tv.
There is nothing wrong with that, but it's not what I understand D-Nice had in mind. His recommendation is based on him following a fixed procedure during his calibration that others could then follow if they want to use his settings. He has resisted the idea that his procedure should be expanded any more than that. I would be surprised to learn that any professional calibrator would ask a client to do a similar procedure before a calibration visit -- including D-Nice.
Quote:
Football games account for a major portion of my annual tv viewing which means the s64 has gotta be ready to roll for a football bonanza on Sept 8th!
It would be good if you could develop some interests that increased your viewing of material free of fixed images, or at least material with different fixed images. wink.gif
Quote:
The cnet settings for the s60, doesn't that include setting contrast at 100? Most of the other settings I see are lower, ~80. "OOPS, my bad, Cnet used 83 as their contrast setting while Consumer Reports used 100 for contrast..".
I think that the CNet settings are as good as any for a starting point. D-Nice has done settings for the ST60 models, but at this point, that's all he's done. He would never recommend crossing model lines with his settings.
Quote:
BTW, I'm on business travel so it was easy to let the tv roll with the slides while gone. My wife is at home and she checks it periodically to make sure slides are scrolling throughout the day.
That sounds good to me, and I've done similar setups just to get safe hours on a new plasma. You are risking that your wife may suspect that there is something wrong with you. eek.gif
post #3651 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by newbieboomboom View Post

Thanks for the reply Patrick! I haven't changed the power saving option but will when i get home. Are you saying try fairchild's calibrations (cinema 8/14 update) minus w/b, color detail, and contrast because the set is new and with 1 hour burn in? If so, I'll try this along with cnet's recommendation. Do you have a link to the slides?

Appreciate the help and patience!
I've been reporting doing something very similar with the 50" S64 model since we brought it home Saturday afternoon. The results have been very good do far. The second game will be tonight with a bit over 100 hours on the set.

I installed the full CNet settings before I started using the slides or watching football and a couple of dramas. Some of the dramas were with logos that would come and go. Their settings will make the set look pretty good until it's old enough for additional adjustments. At it's price range, there is no likely hood that it will get a professional calibration, and I'm big on having a calibrated set. wink.gif
post #3652 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post


There is nothing wrong with that, but it's not what I understand D-Nice had in mind. His recommendation is based on him following a fixed procedure during his calibration that others could then follow if they want to use his settings. He has resisted the idea that his procedure should be expanded any more than that. I would be surprised to learn that any professional calibrator would ask a client to do a similar procedure before a calibration visit -- including D-Nice.
It would be good if you could develop some interests that increased your viewing of material free of fixed images, or at least material with different fixed images. wink.gif
I think that the CNet settings are as good as any for a starting point. D-Nice has done settings for the ST60 models, but at this point, that's all he's done. He would never recommend crossing model lines with his settings.
That sounds good to me, and I've done similar setups just to get safe hours on a new plasma. You are risking that your wife may suspect that there is something wrong with you. eek.gif

:-) As a plasma newbie, I am concerned over IR, particularly from channel logos. All the stations I watch have static logos so I will always have a degree of risk for IR if I watch anything other than BR and since I don't watch many movies, I probably should have bought a LED... My thought is I can put on hours quickly by running slides and hopefully reach the stage where IR is less common without resorting to BR only viewing. then hopefully there is enough variation between stations to prevent issues. If not, well the 50s64 was cheap at costco so I'm not out a lot if my thinking is not correct...
post #3653 of 6832
Ok guys I'm back...I found the 65" s64 is way to big for the house plus my daddio doesn't want anything downstairs..his house his rules sooo my brother just took the 32 inch 8 year old LCD I had to school which still worked great its a Sammy so I was surprised it lasted this long.

So in order to save myself some money and from my dad killing me..I have narrowed down to the 50"S64 from Costco or the 50ST50 from Amazon. Obviously the S64 is a little less but the ST50 gives a little more.

does anyone know about Warrantech warranties coverage cuz that's who amazon has paired with the st50.

Also do you guys feel that 60 inch TVs have better quality control than a 50inch? Just curious cuz alot if complaints seem to hit the 50 inch models and not so much with a 60"
post #3654 of 6832
I'm watching my S64 in a completely darkened room, so environmental influences aren't the issue.

I've been spending more time viewing content, exclusively HD cable TV for the past couple of days using Moshock's home theater settings, and I'm beginning to wonder if my mind may be playing tricks on me & the picture actually may be fine under the D-Nice 7 Cnet settings. What I'm getting at is that although I still contend that D-Nice's/Cnet's settings are dim/dark, they feel much more so when focusing on the issue by scrolling through the various other picture modes, if that makes sense. In other words, in comparison to Vivid or Moshock's home theater settings it's very noticeable how dim D-Nice's settings are, but I wonder if leaving it on D-Nice's settings & allowing my eyes to adjust for an extended period may solve my concerns. I'm going to watch Skyfall in HD via AppleTV tonight using D-Nice's settings through the entire movie in hopes that I begin to adjust to the settings. I'm actually beginning to dislike the brighter settings provided by Moshock, at least for regular HD TV viewing. For example, while blue skies actually look blue & yellows look brighter, which I prefer, rendering the faces of reporters on CNBC does give a bit of a red glow & that's kind of annoying. As somebody else mentioned, that could be the makeup they put on the anchors, and switching to D-Nice's settings does solve the problem, but at the expense of making the graphics & other parts of the screen look washed out. Separately, these HD cable channels show as 1080i & I'm no expert on that but maybe that's part of the consideration. After a certain hour I notice the programming even switches to 480i for some reason for the same shows.

Ultimately, while I do want some pop to the image, I want it to be derived from realism & not feel artificial. I apologize that I may be having difficulty trying to convey what I'm after since I'm not up on all the industry terminology, but it's just something you know when you see it. I strongly believe that Panasonic's recent crop of TV's is where I stand the best chance of getting the picture quality I'm after, and it's frustrating that I'm not seeing it right now with my S64, so maybe I'll have to move up the food chain to a VT or ZT even though I don't require the smart functionality & 3D & I'll actually suffer with the greater input lag of those higher-end sets, which although I don't game much, it does lessen some of the versatility provided by the S60/S64. At the end of the day I just want the best PQ though for movies/TV.

Lastly, maybe I just need to buy a bluray player, but AppleTV is pushing 1080p & I love the simplicity of being all-digital & not having to deal with discs & another device in my cabinet. What picture quality benefit would I gain from a bluray player vs digital downloads from iTunes?

Oh, and why does the S60/S64 lack some of the pro setting menus? Maybe that's where I'm running into problems, although others seem very satisfied with using D-Nice's recommended settings. I just skipped over whatever settings weren't there (both the W/B More Detail Adjustments & the Gamma More Detail Adjustments).

Thanks again everybody.
post #3655 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by BandwidthHog View Post


Lastly, maybe I just need to buy a bluray player, but AppleTV is pushing 1080p & I love the simplicity of being all-digital & not having to deal with discs & another device in my cabinet. What picture quality benefit would I gain from a bluray player vs digital downloads from iTunes?


Thanks again everybody.

Apple TV has 1080p streams which are not the same as 1080p Bluray quality. Although it looks good, it will not look as good as a good Bluray movie. Streams are compressed therefore show artifacts and other problems.
post #3656 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeLfMaDe111985 View Post


So in order to save myself some money and from my dad killing me..I have narrowed down to the 50"S64 from Costco or the 50ST50 from Amazon. Obviously the S64 is a little less but the ST50 gives a little more.

does anyone know about Warrantech warranties coverage cuz that's who amazon has paired with the st50.
You should double check what I'm going to write with the warranty company where you buy. This is just my current understanding.

The Costco two year warranty will replace the TV with a comparable set. They do not do repairs.

The manufacturer's warranty will repair or replace -- it's their choice. As soon as you buy a TV it starts to rapidly depreciate. Where ever you buy your extended warranty, they will only pay up to the current market value for your second hand set, unless you have it in writing that you are covered for replacement value of a comparable set.

I like the Costco standard warranty option for a $600 set, but I wouldn't by a third party extended warranty for a Costco S64 because it will have very little market value by the time the extended warranty is in effect. I think $300 would be optimistic to start, and the amount would continue to decrease through the life of the extended warranty.
Quote:
Also do you guys feel that 60 inch TVs have better quality control than a 50inch? Just curious cuz alot if complaints seem to hit the 50 inch models and not so much with a 60"
There is no such reliable data to support the idea that there is a difference in quality control based on size.

From a picture quality point of view the 50" screen would have smaller pixels and therefore it would appear sharper. The 60" screen would help some people get lost in a drama and feel more like they were in a theater. I've gone both ways. wink.gif

NOTE: IDRick has provided information in the next post about the extended warranty sold by Costco. The language sounds better, but I would try to get a more well defined statement in writing from the warranty company.
Edited by htwaits - 8/30/13 at 5:03pm
post #3657 of 6832
Htwaits,

The added warranty on a costco tv covers years 3, 4, and 5. It is with Square trade and states the following:

5. HOW WE WILL SERVICE YOUR ITEM: Depending on the item and failure circumstances, We will either:
A. Repair your Product, or
B. Provide a cash settlement or a Gift Card reflecting the replacement cost of a new item of equal features and functionality up to the Coverage Amount, or
C. Provide a new or refurbished product of equal features and functionality

We need to double check but I believe the coverage amount is the amount we paid, not some future market value for a used tv...
post #3658 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by IDRick View Post

Htwaits,

The added warranty on a costco tv covers years 3, 4, and 5. It is with Square trade and states the following:

5. HOW WE WILL SERVICE YOUR ITEM: Depending on the item and failure circumstances, We will either:
A. Repair your Product, or
B. Provide a cash settlement or a Gift Card reflecting the replacement cost of a new item of equal features and functionality up to the Coverage Amount, or
C. Provide a new or refurbished product of equal features and functionality

We need to double check but I believe the coverage amount is the amount we paid, not some future market value for a used tv...
That would be ideal.

Based on my current experience with another plan, it's a very good idea to verify, and get a written clarification. Thanks for the information. That's the kind of policy I thought I was buying almost six years ago. Now I've got a $1,000 estimate, and I'm waiting to see whether the warranty will cover that amount on a 8G 60" Kuro 6010 Pioneer under it's five year extended warranty. eek.gif
post #3659 of 6832
Knock on wood my 6010 is going strong
post #3660 of 6832
Quote:
Originally Posted by t-town oil View Post

Knock on wood my 6010 is going strong
Mine was too last Thursday night when I turned it off. frown.gif
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