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Official Panasonic S60 Series Discussion Thread - Page 164

post #4891 of 6808
I have an issue that I wonder if someone can help with?

Just found that the TCP50S60 apparently shares a component and standard composite (yellow) input. This causes some issues in regards to connecting older devices.

I also have a Yamaha RX-V373 receiver but I'm almost positive it will only send a signal over matching type cable. This means that I have to choose either component or composite either through TV or receiver into TV.

Can anyone offer any suggestions as to bypassing this?

The only one I can think of right off is to move my VCR/DVD combo unit into the set up because then I could plug standard composite devices into the front and I THINK pass the signal on over component... Not sure if that works though have to test it.
post #4892 of 6808
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurtangletn View Post

Bad motion handling? eek.gif

Why am I just reading about this as I'm days away from ordering an S64/S60?!

Quote:
Originally Posted by somelogin View Post

I had read the CNET review and it said it can't properly handle 1080/24 content and the motion resolution isn't good and on this past page I believe someone said something about motion blur also. I am more concerned with day time viewing and reflections, though. I don't know what in the world to do to solve all my issues because if I get a small tv (42) this is basically the only choice out there and if I get a tv with less issues and better day time picture, it hurts my head more. Sigh.

according to CNET, it has 700 lines of motion resolution (max possible is 1200), which is considered average

however, most LCDs are around 300-400 lines of motion resolution when motion interpolation features are turned off

the ST60 has 800 lines (not significant higher than 700) of motion resolution in 60 Hz mode and 1200 lines of motion resolution in 96 Hz mode (which can only be used for 1080/24p sources like BD movies... so it doesn't matter for TV shows or video games)


my experience is that the S60 handles motion noticeably better than my 120Hz 46" Samsung LED-LCD (which is one of the better LCDs out there motion wise)... is it perfect? probably not (but given the performance is nearly the same as the ST60 in 60Hz mode, who cares?)
post #4893 of 6808
also, the ST60 has the motion smoother feature (which could give higher numbers when turned on, but turning it on even to weak will add artifacts to the picture, which isn't worth the added motion resolution)

from ST60 review:

Video processing: Both the 60Hz and the 96Hz mode handled 1080p/24 sources properly in my test. As on the VT50, I did detect slight flicker in 96Hz in bright areas, for example the clouds over Brooklyn in "I Am Legend" (24:49).

I did notice some artifacts from 1080p/24 sources in 60Hz mode. On the "Digital Video Essentials" test Blu-ray, we noticed shifting lines and minor instability in the downtown Philadelphia buildings during an upward-facing pan. I didn't see any similar issues during other program material, but assume they might crop up. It's also worth noting that the TV scored higher in motion resolution (1,200 lines versus 700) when I engaged 96Hz mode. In any case, I still prefer the flicker-free 60Hz mode, but it's great to have a choice between 96Hz and 60Hz this year (48Hz, as usual, created unbearable flicker).

As usual, the results of engaging Motion Smoother dejudder processing were objectionable to my eyes, although some viewers might actually want its soap opera effect. Both smoothness and artifacting increased when I moved up in settings from Weak to Mid to Strong.

Unlike the ST50 from last year and this year's S60, the ST60 passed the Film Resolution Loss test in the default Auto setting; there was no need to manually switch it to On.

I also noticed what appeared to be slightly smoother gradations on the ST60. At the 22:09 mark during "Tree of Life," the fading light from a white galaxy appeared smoother on the ST60 (and the Sony LCD) than on any of the other plasmas (including the S60), which showed visible gradation steps of minor "false contouring" or solarization. Many other similar images in this sequence of "Tree" did show visible gradations on the ST60 as well; however, they're rare in other program material on any display. It's worth noting that Panasonic touts improved gradation only on its 2013 VT60 and ZT60 models, so I'm not sure whether what I saw is related.



from the S60 review:

Video processing: The S60 showed a couple of flaws in this category. Most importantly, unlike the ST60 it is incapable of correctly reproducing the correct film cadence of 1080p/24 sources when set to its standard (60Hz) mode. Instead, the pan over the Intrepid from "I Am Legend" (my standard cadence test) appeared relatively halting and choppy, compared with the smoother -- yet not too smooth -- look of the ST60 and other sets that handled film correctly. I tried the 48Hz mode but as usual it flickered too much for me to tolerate. Since those are the only two modes available, you have to choose between choppy motion and flicker. I'd choose the former every time.

As I mentioned before the S60 also lacks dejudder, so if you like the smooth look of the Soap Opera Effect (I don't), you may want to choose another TV.

Sticklers for motion resolution will also note that the S60 performed a bit worse than the ST60 (700 lines versus 800) when the latter's dejudder was turned off. Turning it on, which isn't an option on the S60, widened the gap between the two further. On the other hand I found it quite difficult (as usual) to discern any blurriness in program material, and the S60's result is still better than that of a typical 120Hz LED TVs.

Finally, the S60 only passed our 1080i film deinterlacing test when we manually chose the On setting in its 3:2 pull-down menu; it failed in the default Auto position.

Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 10/29/13 at 11:26am
post #4894 of 6808
here's a good link about where the S64 fits in between the S60 and ST60:

http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/panasonic-tc-p65s64/4505-6482_7-35831113.html
Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 10/29/13 at 11:29am
post #4895 of 6808
I have a friend who just bought the TC-50PS64, and I'm looking for the calibrated settings for his HDTV to help his new set look really great. However there seems to be a confusion with the model numbers.


His set was bought from Costco, so that model number is slightly different from what ever the equivalent model number is.


So I'm asking, what webpage has the settings that can be used that will work with his TC-50PS64. Or, what is the model number equivalent that can also be used for the TC-50PS64 so I can find the settings?


Thanks!
Edited by Thebarnman - 10/29/13 at 11:56am
post #4896 of 6808
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thebarnman View Post

I have a friend who just bought the TC-50PS64, and I'm looking for the calibrated settings for the HDTV to help get his new TV looking really great. However there seems to be a confusion with the model numbers.


I understand there may be a difference with that model number depending on where the TV was bought Costco for example and so I'm having a hard time finding the settings on the internet.


Anyway, can someone please direct me to a site that has the settings for the TC-50PS64.


Thanks!

The S64 is the S60 with an anti glare filter, should be exactly the same settings as any S60 setup. smile.gif

Thanks for the info PlasmaPZ80U, I always saw people talking about CNET's motion resolution scores and could never find them, I just now realized they have a 2nd page on their reviews somehow..
Edited by Kurtangletn - 10/29/13 at 12:03pm
post #4897 of 6808
Quote:
Originally Posted by DtroitPunk View Post

I have an issue that I wonder if someone can help with?

Just found that the TCP50S60 apparently shares a component and standard composite (yellow) input. This causes some issues in regards to connecting older devices.

I also have a Yamaha RX-V373 receiver but I'm almost positive it will only send a signal over matching type cable. This means that I have to choose either component or composite either through TV or receiver into TV.

Can anyone offer any suggestions as to bypassing this?

The only one I can think of right off is to move my VCR/DVD combo unit into the set up because then I could plug standard composite devices into the front and I THINK pass the signal on over component... Not sure if that works though have to test it.

There is really no elegant way around this. A composite video signal is going to look absolutely terrible anyway, so avoid when possible. The only thing I can think of is to get a component switcher. You can just plug both your composite and component connections into it, for composite you would just plug the yellow video connector into what ever color component jack accepts that signal on the set.

There is no reason this shouldn't work, and will allow you to expand the number of devices you have connected simultaneously.

Good luck.
post #4898 of 6808
Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon9887 View Post

There is really no elegant way around this. A composite video signal is going to look absolutely terrible anyway, so avoid when possible. The only thing I can think of is to get a component switcher. You can just plug both your composite and component connections into it, for composite you would just plug the yellow video connector into what ever color component jack accepts that signal on the set.

There is no reason this shouldn't work, and will allow you to expand the number of devices you have connected simultaneously.

Good luck.

This is what I was afraid of. I actually HAVE a Impact Acoustics Cables to Go 3-Play but thought I didn't need it anymore. Still looking at some options I guess. Thanks for the response.
post #4899 of 6808
Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon9887 View Post

There is really no elegant way around this. A composite video signal is going to look absolutely terrible anyway, so avoid when possible. The only thing I can think of is to get a component switcher. You can just plug both your composite and component connections into it, for composite you would just plug the yellow video connector into what ever color component jack accepts that signal on the set.

There is no reason this shouldn't work, and will allow you to expand the number of devices you have connected simultaneously.

Good luck.

A component switcher STILL won't fix this issue as the switcher box needs to have both component AND composite outs. With having to choose between green component or yellow composite on the same input my Component Switcher leaves me right where I left off! WOW, who knew it would be so difficult?

So, if the RX-V373 won't upconvert or pass composite over component than I don't know what I am going to do. I guess I need a joiner to merge composite and component.
.
post #4900 of 6808
Does anyone know if this adapter will work? http://www.amazon.com/Link-CLY2FZ-Triple-Shielded-Y-Adapter/dp/B000QHQT6Q/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1383078860&sr=8-6&keywords=rca+Y+ADAPTER

Seems like I should be able to use that to join the green component and yellow composite into the same input, yeah?
post #4901 of 6808
Quote:
Originally Posted by DtroitPunk View Post

A component switcher STILL won't fix this issue as the switcher box needs to have both component AND composite outs. With having to choose between green component or yellow composite on the same input my Component Switcher leaves me right where I left off! WOW, who knew it would be so difficult?

So, if the RX-V373 won't upconvert or pass composite over component than I don't know what I am going to do. I guess I need a joiner to merge composite and component.
.

As I said, a switcher will work. I do this at home. A switcher is just a box that connects different wires together, it doesn't care what signal is going through each wire.

On the tv, one of the 3 video component inputs is also the input for composite. I am not near my tv, so I can't say which one.

For the sake of argument lets say it is the green component input (this isn't a green signal, if I remember correctly the three inputs are two colour difference channels and then a brightness channel). As long as you connect the composite (yellow) video cable to the green input in the switcher, and change the tv to look for a composite signal, it will work.

Of course you would just plug in component video as you normally would.
post #4902 of 6808
I wanted to compare the three panel brightness settings using grayscale/gamma and color gamut measurements (and also black and white clipping patterns) and I found that Mid and High are the same brightness for 100% white (50 fL with a standard 10% window with Cinema mode, Contrast 90). Grayscale/gamma and color gamut are about the same as well between Mid and High. The only real difference is that the picture is much, much noisier and you can even see with grayscale patterns which are basically just gray boxes of increasing brightness. So, on the S60, panel brightness High has no benefits over panel brightness Mid and is actually a lot noisier.

Low measured 39 fL, which is considerably dimmer (vs. 50 fL in Mid) and the grayscale/gamma and color gamut was somewhat off in this mode (using the same settings from Mid anyway... if you re-calibrated it, things might be equivalent to Mid). I don't recommend Low if you like a (relatively) bright picture, but it is likely a usable mode once calibrated (albeit considerably dimmer than Mid).

As for the black clipping pattern, Low and Mid use the same brightness (black level) setting but High needs to use a setting two clicks higher to avoid crushing digital levels 17 and 18. The white clipping pattern shows the same levels for Low, Mid, and High, but Low and High show discoloration (especially low). This is something further calibration in Low or High could fix, possibly.







Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 10/29/13 at 4:21pm
post #4903 of 6808
Unless I am mistaken, the ST60 doesn't have a 96Hz mode. Maybe I am just thinking back to the 50 models, but I'm pretty sure for the 60s as well it only had either 48 or 72 and that CNET had the wrong one listed. May be wrong, but that's what I was thinking.

Also, compared with my LCD I was using until the past year or two, yeah the motion will probably be as good or better. i'm just saying once used to the elites and sony hx929 and some others which handled 1080.24 well, it could be noticeable. Usually, I don't notice unless it's way off, though.
post #4904 of 6808
Quote:
Originally Posted by somelogin View Post

Unless I am mistaken, the ST60 doesn't have a 96Hz mode. Maybe I am just thinking back to the 50 models, but I'm pretty sure for the 60s as well it only had either 48 or 72 and that CNET had the wrong one listed. May be wrong, but that's what I was thinking.

I believe it does for 1080/24p inputs (the 2013 model, ST60).
post #4905 of 6808
Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon9887 View Post

As I said, a switcher will work. I do this at home. A switcher is just a box that connects different wires together, it doesn't care what signal is going through each wire.

On the tv, one of the 3 video component inputs is also the input for composite. I am not near my tv, so I can't say which one.

For the sake of argument lets say it is the green component input (this isn't a green signal, if I remember correctly the three inputs are two colour difference channels and then a brightness channel). As long as you connect the composite (yellow) video cable to the green input in the switcher, and change the tv to look for a composite signal, it will work.

Of course you would just plug in component video as you normally would.

AHH, NOW this makes sense to me. Sorry, I am currently busy multitasking to prepare for my sons wedding on Thursday! I can't believe I missed what you were saying here. I decided to go ahead and order the RCA Y adapter so that I wont need to keep a switcher plugged in and add more steps to my Logitech remote etc. For $5.66 it is worth it to me and I will likely save that much in energy in less than year too. Thanks for your help though!
post #4906 of 6808
Are there any input lag issues like the ST? I have the U50 and looking to upgrade.
post #4907 of 6808
Quote:
Originally Posted by SvtFoci View Post

Are there any input lag issues like the ST? I have the U50 and looking to upgrade.

S60/S64 clocks in about 35ms, ST60 is about 75ms in game mode.
post #4908 of 6808
Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon9887 View Post

As far as I know there is no way to actually disable the speakers on the s60/64. I looked in every menu on the tv when I got my sound system to see if I could do this and I came up empty. I also looked in the manual that came with the set, and the full online manual and found nothing.

If I overlooked something, and someone here does know of a way to do this I would love to hear it!

Yah I already looked in the booklet before posting (it barely has anything in it) and i still can't find it for the life of me. kind of frustrating because then i have to use the other remote for volume.
post #4909 of 6808
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

It does look like there is no way to disable the S60/S64 speakers. But this is usually never a problem since simply turning the TV's volume all the way down has historically worked just fine. The problem you're having is because your Sound Bar's remote is apparently controlling your TV's volume in addition to controlling the Sound Bar's volume. The ZVOX is the only Sound Bar that i've seen do this (none of the other brands also take over the TV's volume like this AFAIK) so it looks like your Pioneer bar is doing the same thing that the ZVOX bar does. Is this correct?

If so, is there a way to make your Pioneer Sound Bar's remote NOT send a volume command to the TV? Like disable it's TV control or sumthin?

If not, like i said in my ZVOX post here yesterday, you may be able to teach it the volume control from a different brand of TV so your Panny doesn't respond along with the Sound Bar.
There are a few owner's settings linked in post #1

The remote I'm using is the one with my optik tv, so it turns on and off my optik box and tv. then i programmed that remote to learn the volume for my pioneer soundbar. so it's working as i'd like except it's controlling the volume on the tv AND soundbar.
post #4910 of 6808
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by svt2nv View Post

The remote I'm using is the one with my optik tv, so it turns on and off my optik box and tv. then i programmed that remote to learn the volume for my pioneer soundbar. so it's working as i'd like except it's controlling the volume on the tv AND soundbar.

So i guess you need to find out how or why the optik tv remote's volume buttons is controlling the TV's volume despite programming it to just control the Sound Bar's volume. It's very unlikely that the Pioneer Sound Bar uses the same volume control codes as the Panasonic TV.

Do you have an HDMI cable routed through that Sound Bar from the TV or optik box? Maybe Viera LInk or ARC is causing it?
post #4911 of 6808
I still haven't decided whether or not to try this tv. lol Mostly not due to the tv itself, but the only reason I would want it is if it hurts my head elss than my kuros, but what's the chances of that? The 42ST30 actually hurt my head worse than the kuros do.... so it's probably wasting time and effort having to carry the box and whatnot.
post #4912 of 6808

Seems like the S60 is on backorder pretty much everywhere.  Some with an expected delivery date of mid-December! :|

 

In either case, can someone who has the 65" S60 please do me a favor and measure the length/width of the stand?  (The footprint).  I believe the width of it is 14.2" based on the spec sheet, but not sure about length (or if I read correctly that the width is 14.2")?

 

Thank you,

 

+++ath0

NO CARRIER

post #4913 of 6808
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Not what Id call normal. Some panels have it and some dont. Some report that it fades away with time. Some report that it doesnt. Its not unique to the S60. Some 2012 and 2013 panels have it.
Thanks for your input Bond007. I'm still running slides, but does this banding affect actual pic quality or just evident on slides? Also, is 300 hr break-in recommended for this panel as well or is less okay? Almost at 100 hr.
post #4914 of 6808
Quote:
Originally Posted by NO CARRIER View Post

Seems like the S60 is on backorder pretty much everywhere.  Some with an expected delivery date of mid-December! :|

In either case, can someone who has the 65" S60 please do me a favor and measure the length/width of the stand?  (The footprint).  I believe the width of it is 14.2" based on the spec sheet, but not sure about length (or if I read correctly that the width is 14.2")?

Thank you,

+++ath0
NO CARRIER

If you are looking at the user manual and spec sheets linked on page 1, the last page spec sheet has really nice diagrams showing the dimensions. The pedestal depth is 14.2" and the width is 23.7". So that would be the minimum AV cabinet/shelf/cubby you would want to place it on.
post #4915 of 6808
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRonnie7 View Post

Thanks for your input Bond007. I'm still running slides, but does this banding affect actual pic quality or just evident on slides? Also, is 300 hr break-in recommended for this panel as well or is less okay? Almost at 100 hr.
Most people dont see the band when watching regular content. In fact if it wasnt for the slides a vast majority of people would not know it was there.
100 hrs is OK if you still vary the content you watch for a while. Really it varies from panel to panel. If youre going to get it calibrated professionally then at least 300 hrs is recommended.
post #4916 of 6808
Im located in California, I bought the S64 about 2-3 weeks ago at costco for $600, was a 30 mile trip but the store actually had 10 in stock, no 65" though. I actually bought the costco card that day just to get in on this TV deal, I was about a day or two away from buying the S60 on amazon for $700 so I was really glad to find this thread and this deal still alive.

Im currently at 175 hours, waiting for 200 hours before I start gaming on it. I may still keep gaming sessions low, 2 hours and under for the next hundred hours.

My first hundred hours I just put it on random channels and zoomed in for no logo, the next 75 hours when not watching I would continue to zoom in, when watching I would put it full screen with logos and black bars, but would keep it to 2 hours max before I would change channel or zoom in.

Have noticed no burn in. I got this for my bedroom, sit about 8 feet away. Let me tell you, for those not aware. When they say plasma tv's run hot, they really mean it. My tv regularly is 111 degrees, it actually can keep my room a little warm.
Also, if you have it on for several hours before you go to bed.. it lights up the room pretty well for awhile still when off.

BTW f you are relying on streaming via pc to tv, most formats dont work very well. Most formats look very pixelated, and are small, utilizing 4 black bars. MP4 looks perfect though.

Have a few questions, people always vaguely say to keep contrast and brightness low when breaking in. What is low? Ive been running contrast 80, brightness -1 (fairchilds settings)
Also, is 200 hours of break in enough? Honestly I have seen so many responses.. dont break in, 100 hours, 150, 200, 300, 500, etc.

Im just going to continue using fairchilds settings.
post #4917 of 6808
Sigh. I guess I am not likely to get this. The "reconditioned(new)" tv ended up being a floor model! I told him that it said online it was never used, but just the box opened. He claimed they just took it out to put on display. But I bet it was still sued for a while. I would say even with their messed up feed, I could tell it would likely be bright enough for me.... but anyway the reason I didn't get it is the dummies were still going to charge me a restocking fee if I returned their USED tv. So now the ONLY 42 inch tv I could consider is the E60, which is led and I hate going back to led, but I do wish I had a 42 inch instead of the 50. The 50 looks nice and all, but no matter how long I watch it, apparently it's just flat too big.
post #4918 of 6808
somelogin- why don't you just check the hours on the tv ? - instructions are in this thread if you search.

David
post #4919 of 6808
The hours wouldn't have necessarily changed my mind, but if I still consider it, I will check. This as going to be $621 for a supposed new tv, yet it's not really new, even if it only has 2 hours, and another city has a correctly listed used one (returned or floor model) for barely over $300! So I would be paying double for basically the same thing.

If I were sure I wanted it, I would get it, but the tv isn't the problem, it's my stupid head issues the tvs all keep giving me. It's that unknown that screws this all up for me where I can't be like a normal person and just buy one and keep it if I like the picture. If not for that, I m sure it's a great value of a tv. And especially the S64 would be. I think for the average person the S64 is probably a better choice than the ST60, due to less lag and still having the cutdown on reflections.
post #4920 of 6808
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsettlemoir View Post

somelogin- why don't you just check the hours on the tv ? - instructions are in this thread if you search. David

I linked the quick hour-checking method in post #1
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