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***SEOS 12 / DNA-360 / Eminence Delta 12LFA Curved Build*** - Page 5

post #121 of 218
that sounds like a good tip, Cuzed2.

shame those will be hidden. going to look very cool.
post #122 of 218
I am very impressed with the way they are turning out! One day perhaps my woodworking skills will be at this level!
post #123 of 218
I am very impressed with the way they are turning out! One day perhaps my woodworking skills will be at this level!
post #124 of 218
Thread Starter 
On a side note im pretty sure the 3/4 roundover killed my brand new router. Got last christmas frown.gif
post #125 of 218
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

On a side note im pretty sure the 3/4 roundover killed my brand new router. Got last christmas frown.gif

Man, sorry to hear that. 3/4" roundover is a pretty big bit, but I wouldn't think it could kill a router. What router was it? I have a large freud 3hp and a smaller PC.

Tim
post #126 of 218
You sure it is dead? Some have a thermal breaker that will flip off if a heavy load is kept on them for too long but it should reset after it cools. Could also just be a plain old fuse that needs to be replaced.
post #127 of 218
I've also had a problem with the switches on routers. Especially with MDF. Try blowing it out and rocking it back and forth a few times.

Tim
post #128 of 218
Thread Starter 
It still works i think its the upper or lower bearing. It starts to vibrate and gets jerky like its binding up outside.

It started this behavior while spinning down after i started using the 3/4 and now its doing it under full power.

Its a PC fixed base, looks like the bearings are ~11 each. Gotta suck it up tho its not safe like it is all herky jerky. frown.gif
post #129 of 218
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

On a side note im pretty sure the 3/4 roundover killed my brand new router. Got last christmas frown.gif

Man, sorry to hear that. 3/4" roundover is a pretty big bit, but I wouldn't think it could kill a router. What router was it? I have a large freud 3hp and a smaller PC.

Tim

I have never used my 3/4" radius roundover bit outside the router table. Frankly, I would be scared to. If you're using that big honkin' bit in a handheld router, you have some big ... er ... well, let's just say you're racking up points on your man card faster than I am.

Like Tim, though, I am surprised that running a 3/4" roundover bit for a couple of hours would have smoked the bearings. Maybe the bit was unbalanced?
post #130 of 218
Thread Starter 
IDK my first effort will be to return it where It was bought(Lowes) if I can find the receipt. Then if not that I'll contact Porter Cable. If that doesn't work I'll dive into working on it. The process doesn't look too hard but I don't think I should have to work on a brand new router. I mean I didn't abuse it!!!

Anyhoo the duratex is fully curing on the bottoms so I can confidently move them around while finishing the top sides.

Duratex is a different animal though, not really paint, more like putty that you smean on! It took a while to get the hang of it. I did thin it to the max 5% allowed by manufacturer and the finish is acceptable to me. Low texture and high build I see why lots of commercial speaker manufacturers use the stuff. It could really cover up some major cabinetry flaws if called upon to do so.
post #131 of 218
Thread Starter 
Ok, got some "free" time and did some work.

Finished the duratexing.

Assembled crossovers and soldered em all up.

Im working on final assembly now should get some pics of current progress in a couple days.

Should be complete and installed in 2weeks max. The extended completion is because they are going into a baffle wall which has to be attached to my current false screen wall.....

Excited this project will finally be complete its been a long process.
post #132 of 218
post #133 of 218
Lol-- Love that MEME. ^
post #134 of 218
Thread Starter 
Haha! Nice one Tim!

I got the binding posts installed, crossovers installed, and wiring done.

All thats left is driver installation! biggrin.gif

This is my favorite part of a build so i take my time and savor it.

Heres a couple progress pics:








Also: Updated OP with thread pic content and some brief descriptions for those of us with ADD, including myself....
Edited by NicksHitachi - 7/22/13 at 8:52am
post #135 of 218
Can't wait to see the drivers in place. Should look awesome.
post #136 of 218
Curved cabinets and gloss finish on the crossover boards... That's how you roll. Nice. I didn't even paint mine biggrin.gif

What's the smaller gauge wire for? Looks like you have 12ga or 14ga running to the CD and woofer.

Tim
post #137 of 218
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

What's the smaller gauge wire for? Looks like you have 12ga or 14ga running to the CD and woofer.

Tim

Thats just what I used for the crossover board connections. I could have used stranded wire just as easy but found the solid copper wound with crossover component wire easier and then just transitioned to the stranded to make the driver connections. I don't think it really makes a milligram of difference. I did try to keep all the connections point to point when possible and all the pieces in the signal path copper. The only non-copper parts are the binding posts(gold plated something) and crimp on connector used to connect to binding post. Again don't think its worth a milligram one way or another but might as well do all I can......
post #138 of 218
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Thats just what I used for the crossover board connections. I could have used stranded wire just as easy but found the solid copper wound with crossover component wire easier and then just transitioned to the stranded to make the driver connections. I don't think it really makes a milligram of difference. I did try to keep all the connections point to point when possible and all the pieces in the signal path copper. The only non-copper parts are the binding posts(gold plated something) and crimp on connector used to connect to binding post. Again don't think its worth a milligram one way or another but might as well do all I can......

I agree. I don't think it makes much different either. I wired the last 15" sub with 16ga from coil to coil. Seems to sound just as good smile.gif


Tim
post #139 of 218
Thread Starter 
Finished tidying up the wiring and hot gluing the wire in place where it wont rattle. I soldered all the crimp connectors, tinned the ends of the wires to be inserted into the CD.



Here is a shot of the binding posts, I think they turned out nice looking:

post #140 of 218
Thread Starter 
Assembly complete!

Im not gonna blab on too much here im on my phone. After final assembly i measured each speaker and the overlays were identical all except one. Remeasured and there was a big dip between 1-2K on the last speaker i measured. I decided that before i took it apart i would run it a little to see if break in might help at all. I put about 20mins of 311 with 60watts through it and remeasured. This cleared up the dip or it was a measurement anomaly. Either way it now perfectly overlaid the other two.

Heres some final pics if the assembly and finals of the speakers:































post #141 of 218
Bad ass!
post #142 of 218
Nice job, Nick. They look great. The insulated binding posts are a nice touch.

Tim
post #143 of 218
Amazing work.
post #144 of 218
i love how these turned out. classiest duratex finished speakers i have seen. i cant wait to read what you think of their performance
post #145 of 218
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by filtor1 View Post

Bad ass!

Thanks Dude!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Nice job, Nick. They look great. The insulated binding posts are a nice touch.

Tim

Got dem binders at Madisound they work good, me likey.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Amazing work.

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

i love how these turned out. classiest duratex finished speakers i have seen. i cant wait to read what you think of their performance

Well, the Duratex isnt perfect in full sunlight you can pickup some texture variances..... However inside they look pretty clean and perfect in my cave of a theater.

Ive done some listening full range to music but they arent supposed to be working below 80Hz and they dont have the bass thump you really need for music without subs. However the midrange sounds pretty good. They are surprisingly laid back, not what i was expecting but sound great. I guess i was expecting the highs to be honkey and bright since the CD has such high output capability but theyre very balanced sounding.

The actual theater install is taking a while. Im converting my screen wall to be a baffle wall, into which these babies will be mounted. This will conclude my all out assault SBIR and the Allison effect which has always produced a ragged midbass region in my theater. Hopefully that will flatten me out!
post #146 of 218
Well Done !!!!!!
post #147 of 218
NicksHitachi;

Regarding the following:
"After final assembly i measured each speaker and the overlays were identical all except one. Remeasured and there was a big dip between 1-2K on the last speaker i measured. I decided that before i took it apart i would run it a little to see if break in might help at all. I put about 20mins of 311 with 60watts through it and remeasured. This cleared up the dip or it was a measurement anomaly. Either way it now perfectly overlaid the other two"

Have you posted your REW response graphs anywhere?
Reason I ask is that I am now finally about to start running some REW sweeps (in-room) with my SEOS deltalights.
I'm finding some interesting results on how Audyssey is choosing to cross mine over rather high (perhaps because I am enjoying listening with considerable toe-in; as per the wrote-up on the DIY forum ..)

Feel free to PM me if you prefer..
post #148 of 218
those curved cabinets look so awesome
post #149 of 218
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JWagstaff View Post

those curved cabinets look so awesome

Thank You Sir!
post #150 of 218
Thread Starter 
N
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

NicksHitachi;

Regarding the following:
"After final assembly i measured each speaker and the overlays were identical all except one. Remeasured and there was a big dip between 1-2K on the last speaker i measured. I decided that before i took it apart i would run it a little to see if break in might help at all. I put about 20mins of 311 with 60watts through it and remeasured. This cleared up the dip or it was a measurement anomaly. Either way it now perfectly overlaid the other two"

Have you posted your REW response graphs anywhere?
Reason I ask is that I am now finally about to start running some REW sweeps (in-room) with my SEOS deltalights.
I'm finding some interesting results on how Audyssey is choosing to cross mine over rather high (perhaps because I am enjoying listening with considerable toe-in; as per the wrote-up on the DIY forum ..)

Feel free to PM me if you prefer..

Its cool, there is def benefit to discuss here...

-What were your internal dimensions?
-Where does Audussey cross them over?

Ill have to recalc but I think mine were like 2-2.5ft^3

I did post a graph. It showed an F3 of ~80Hz so im guessing Audyssey prob is crossing yours at 100-120? Im putting mine into a baffle wall which i hope will boost the low end a few dbs and allow me to get Audussey to cross them at 80Hz.
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