Pair of Sealed Dayton 18" Flat-Pack Subs Build

sounds very similar to what i just built. Same boxes, same drivers

I did not do anything for feet but ordered some cork & rubber anti vibration pads, they come as 4x4 in squares that i plan on putting under the subs and between the subs and speakers i have sitting on top of them. YOu can go with whatever you want/like. Perconally i just didnt want to perm attach anything to them. these also work well http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IMODW8/ref=s9_simh_gw_p60_d2_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=0TSEPNQA0BMYCDAERRG3&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1389517282&pf_rd_i=507846

For terminals i used these http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-311 but you can use raw posts or speakons. pretty much anything works, just go with what is easiest for you to install/hook to your equipment

im running mine from a EP4000 and with the lmited time ive spent with it since finishing everything its fine for my space, Good thing about them is they are cheap and i feel i need more power i can just get a 2nd one. Running RCA-XLR (adapters from PE) from the AVR to the Amp, speaker wire out of it to subs.

if you dont have 2 sub outs just get a Y cable. as its likely thats all that the 2 sub outs are anyway

I personally own the EP-4000 and love it. For the money, I don't think it can be beat!

The EP-4000 are certainly a good deal for the money, no doubt. I own a couple.

I'm not sure how everyone is powering their Daytons, but you could try one EP-4000, stereo 4ohms ... and if that wasn't enough get another, and run two of them bridged mono into 4ohms.

If the general consensus is they need more power, get the CV. Myself, I'd shy away from the I-Nukes, or the Crowns, that's me.

Good luck


btw, if you can get away without fan modding them, all the better

Why shy away from the I- nukes?

Myself, I'm not sold on their robustness. Josh Ricci recently experienced an amp failure with an I-Nuke.

Relative to the EP series, I think their extension is comprimised, by design they're more reliant on the power line, and I'm skeptical. I know the EP series is well vetted, and operating within their limits are quite stout and reliable. Their extension is solid way down below 10hz.

Ok, thanks

this is my plan, even running 4 ohm stereo they get a decent amount of power, and depending on the space may be enough. more power is always better but at 300$ for the EP4k its one heck of a deal for anyone on a budget

I believe they're about 650 a side into 4, measured

A few things;
How are the other builds utilizing this driver powered?
What's the general consensus on how much they need in the cab size you're using?

What are you wanting to achieve with the DSP?
How much do you want to spend?


There's so much enthusiasm toward minDSP's offerings, but there's other options like Behringer's DCX2496, on up in price.

In a finshed basement, the walls reflect most of the bass, leading to extreme variations in bass SPL with position and frequency - room modes. You can fix 1 seat with EQ. I strongly suggest considering some degree of room acoustic treatment, with an emphasis on bass absorption, based on measurements of your room. Room modes are easy to see on a waterfall plot (SPL vs Frequency vs. Time) as long SPL decay times at a given frequency, frequently corresponding to a peak in the T=0 curve.

Sadly, beyond suggesting basic broad-band absorbers for frequencies above 100-200Hz, there's little to be suggested for bass frequencies without data on room performance. Room modes will yield a little to multiple subs and sub placement variation, but room treatment fixes the whole space.

Most suggestions I see posted are for extending low frequency absorption of an existing broad-band absorber design (eg. super chunk "traps"). The result is a too-quiet room that still booms (we humans don't notice an absence as easily easily as an excess).

I also can't tell you want I had to do as my room's above grade with basement and attic above and below, and only one wall common to the rest of the house. Lots of leakage, so very weak room modes... but I can hear car doors close in the driveway, so I bet the neighbors can hear canon fire if they listen.

Have fun,
Frank

congrats on getting your build underway blah.

i haven't seen any bench test of the cv5000. has anybody?

I had a CV-5000 on my dual opposed for awhile and when we demo'd them at carp's. My box is a touch smaller, comes in around 3.2 net cubes per driver. I then sold the CV to carp because it was way more than I needed (I'm not gonna build a second box for a couple months) so I bought an EP4K in the meantime. Even at ~650 a driver it beats them up pretty good, there's no way I could get it to clip before my apartment fell apart. Between ~650 and ~1250 watts you're only gaining around 3dB in that scenario. If you're sure you're building 2 more boxes and want absolute max power then the CV seems to be a really great amplifier, especially if rack space will be at a premium. If you're unsure than an EP is a great way to start, and you could always have it for a spare, resell it, use it for mains, whatever. I personally feel more comfortable being aggressive fan-modding the EP since it's less than half the price which is a big deal to me due to the small distance between my ears and the fans. I ended up wiring the CV is 2 ohms and just using one channel because I was too much of a noob to feel comfortable doing 4 ohm stereo (listed 1800W per driver) and restraining myself/carp/Archaea in regards to volume. The CV is very loud stock for sure but after several hours of pounding it at carp's it was barely warmer to the touch than room temp. In my limited experience they are both excellent at receiving an input signal and amplifying it

I use a miniDSP and love it, it makes storing and swapping to different LT's and such about as easy as it could be without a Bassis or something (but obviously more flexibile). The only problem with the 2x4 miniDSP is it's definitely not catered to people who just want to get something and plug it in. I wasn't at all interested in dealing with a bunch of the Phoenix XLR connectors (especially given the "in-a-box" costs more) so I bought the regular 2x4 balanced kit and mounted it up nicelike in a 1U rack mount case. That approach would be a PITA if you wanted it to look good and didn't have access to the right tools though. It looks like some of the larger varieties are more ready to go, but obviously quite a bit more expensive.

I just finished the same build (2 of Erich's 4cf flat packs, 2 Dayton HOs,1 ep4000, duratex finish) and have a similar sized room (>3600cf). I don't listen at crazy levels but based on my limited testing/listening last weekend can't imagine wanting more power than I have with the ep4000. I'd only consider another amp if there are quieter options and the amp will have to be located near the LP (I moved my AV components to a closet). I'm currently using a bfd for eq. My subs measured decent without eq so there's a chance you get lucky and can get by with just audyssey; but if you have the budget, I'd go ahead and grab a minidsp based on what I've read about it.

Good luck with the build. BTW, I started a thread too that I'll be updating with pics and graphs later this week... currently out of town.

you can attach pictures directly in the editor. no need for photobucket. avs is likely just going to store the photos locally on the first load anyway.

if you are still planning on running 2 subs in stereo just run channel 1 to sub 1 and channel 2 to sub 2, its that simple

dip switches as such (if using 2 inputsfrom the AVR)

1) on
2) doesnt matter
3) off
4) stereo
5) stereo
6) Off
7) Off
8) off
9) doesnt matter
10) on

if you are only running 1 input from the AVR set switches 4 and 5 to Parallel and run the input into channel 1

mine is setup with 2 inputs from the AVR because i can if i want set the sub levels independently while EQing

the user manual does a pretty good job explaining it all, you can download it from behringers website

you can do either and it shouldn't change anything, running the Y just lets you set the gain for each channel independently on the ep4k. chances are you will never run them at anything besides max