mtb...I like what you used, likewise your sound rationale for using them.
I did not want to bother with a cut...so I used the bare binding posts that go through a 1/4" pilot hole and stick out about 1 cm. from the back of the enclosures.
I had considered a small round-over edge for all the the edges, and it could easily be done, and it would have looked great...however, another step I did not want to take (boy...I'm coming across really chintzy. eh?).
I detail some of the DuraTex findings in Post 46, and will let you be the judge of it in the pics below. A second coat is HIGHLY recommended. Also, two of Erich's 4 cu.ft. cabs might possibly be completed with about a quart rather than gallon of DuraTex.
Also, I finally got around to drilling a hole in a test scrap of MDF and trying a brass knife thread insert to mount the drivers. Had some trouble with them not wanting to pull through quickly. Opted out of that after trying several different means of mounting including opening up the pilot hole a little more. Rather than mess around with having inserts align perfectly with screws, I followed the lead from others and just went with screws...just too darn quick and convenient! I found the below pocket-head screws at Lowes. I used #8 by 1.5", the head was easily wide, and the underside flat enough,
to securely hold the flange of the Dayton 18" HO subwoofers. Being pocket-hole screws, it was a nice, wide, deep thread that held in the MDF very well. I did drill pilot holes despite the "cut-point" of the screws allowing for an easy start.
After returning the other hardware, total cost for a pack of these screws was $5.
Sub #1 (not sure what I will be doing with the eD A5-350 now. It's been really solid...just wanted to try something else with the DIY.
Sub #2...No spots on sub in following...just funky artifacts from camera...
I have hooked them up just to make sure everything is powering up correctly....and cause I was too flipping excited!
Beacuse of a great deal, I opted for a Matchbox HD to take the unbalanced RCA feed from the Y off my receiver, and give me balanced XLR output on 2 lines...and therefore the ability to control FR of each sub via the miniDSP below.
My next step is to bring the 2 XLR wires to the miniDSP post Matchbox (I will cut the XLR cables in half and just use bare wire to feed in and out of DSP phoenix connectors) and then out to amp. I picked up a RatShack Enercell 12vDC 500mA wall wart with a bare wire adapter end to feed power to the miniDSP...they were on sale, so why not? I know what I am getting instead of playing a guessing game with an unused cell phone adapter.
I am running 12AWG speaker wire bare off amp to speakers.
Will be setting up calibrated Dayton Audio USB mic soon and playing around with placements and tuning.
I can already understand why some have said, "Why stop at 2?"