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Any DLP's with significantly higher light output in 3D than the Benq W7000?

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
Just curious. smile.gif

Tom
post #2 of 17
Just get a HP screen Tom! Also known as the W7000HP..... biggrin.gif
post #3 of 17
be prepared to re-mortgage the house, sell vehicles, organs, etc.... biggrin.gif

the HP screen is a lot cheaper. cool.gif

http://www.sim2usa.com/home/uk/content/lumis-3d-s-0

LUMIS_3DS_Product2_main_ima.png
post #4 of 17
Panasonic PT-RZ470 due out this month is rated at 3500 lumens.
It will do 3D. Questions remain as to how well suited the projector is for home theater use.
Street price is roughly half of MSRP.
post #5 of 17
If you've got the money, there are a bunch of options. Unless you're looking for a huge screen (12' + wide) you might be better of with one of the brighter projectors typically talked about here. The W7000 is one of them. Digital Projection has some bright options if you've got the dough.
post #6 of 17
Ya, the Lumis is pretty bright, although IMO not too bright. I just measured mine the other night. With about 800 hours on the bulb, I still get around 21 foot lamberts off a 121" diagonal screen !! cool.gif
post #7 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

Just get a HP screen Tom! Also known as the W7000HP..... biggrin.gif

Very true. I would need to stack a bunch of nd filters for 2d considering the small screen I use in a black velvet room.

Tom
post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 
Is the Sharp 30000 as bright in 3D as W7000? I'm really considering picking one up. I like the 7000 but do see a little ringing in the image.

Thanks,
Tom
post #9 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Monahan View Post

Is the Sharp 30000 as bright in 3D as W7000? I'm really considering picking one up. I like the 7000 but do see a little ringing in the image.

Thanks,
Tom

we never got a chance to find out. Consider that Willie returned his for the much less expensive BQ W1070 and said there wasn't much difference in PQ. Several others have owned the W7000/1070 and said they were similar as well. Not sure if the Sharp 30K is going to be a major improvement over either model.

looks like Elix just bought one, guess we'll find out some detailed info soon about it. It looks like Sharp is giving these away at every chance.
post #10 of 17
I am pretty tempted to order. There's not a nicer DLP for the current Woot deal, right ?
post #11 of 17
W7000/1070 are supposed to be brighter. There are several reviews for XV-Z30000 which specify lumen measurements.
http://www.projectorreviews.com/sharp/xv-z30000/performance.php
http://www.hometheater.com/content/sharp-xv-z30000-3d-dlp-video-projector-ht-labs-measures
If brightness is your prime concern I'd go for a specialized screen with high gain. There are many options, one of the best ones being Da-Lite HP 2.8.
post #12 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Monahan View Post

Very true. I would need to stack a bunch of nd filters for 2d considering the small screen I use in a black velvet room.

Tom

You dont need to worry about too bright for 2d with the 7000. You can go into the service menu and dial down the iris which takes all of about 15-20 seconds once you know where to go. I have to dial it down for 2d on my HP since the default setting of 12 is way too bright on my HP screen, but a quick adjustment down to 6 gets the brightness in line with my JVC. cool.gif For 3d I just go and bump it back up to 12. I am just going to set up a macro at some point on my universal remote which will make the exercise even easier with a 1 button push.
post #13 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

You dont need to worry about too bright for 2d with the 7000. You can go into the service menu and dial down the iris which takes all of about 15-20 seconds once you know where to go. I have to dial it down for 2d on my HP since the default setting of 12 is way too bright on my HP screen, but a quick adjustment down to 6 gets the brightness in line with my JVC. cool.gif For 3d I just go and bump it back up to 12. I am just going to set up a macro at some point on my universal remote which will make the exercise even easier with a 1 button push.

Thanks Toe.smile.gif

I use a JVC for 2D. My JVC is ceiling mounted so that would be a problem with the high power.frown.gif If I were to shelf mount the JVC as well, I would loose my two back wall surrounds. My eyes are about 6" above the bottom of my 40x96 screen. Would this be a problem? I use a Carada 1.0 now and love it due to it's great viewing angle and lack of sparlies/texture in bright scenes.

Could you please let me know exactly what I adjust in the 7000's service mode?

Tom
post #14 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Monahan View Post

Thanks Toe.smile.gif

I use a JVC for 2D. My JVC is ceiling mounted so that would be a problem with the high power.frown.gif If I were to shelf mount the JVC as well, I would loose my two back wall surrounds. My eyes are about 6" above the bottom of my 40x96 screen. Would this be a problem? I use a Carada 1.0 now and love it due to it's great viewing angle and lack of sparlies/texture in bright scenes.

Could you please let me know exactly what I adjust in the 7000's service mode?

Tom

Sounds like the HP would not be ideal in your setup.

To get into the service menu (which you might already know) pull up the normal menu and go to the information menu on the far right and while in that menu press up-down-up-down-up-down and then enter. Once in the service menu, click over two times to the left and you will be in the menu to adjust the iris. Once in this menu, adjust both the min aperture AND current aperture setting to the same number (they are at 12 by default). For my setup, I bump both down to 6 which gets me where I need to be, but you can go higher or lower if you need to. smile.gif
post #15 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

Sounds like the HP would not be ideal in your setup.

To get into the service menu (which you might already know) pull up the normal menu and go to the information menu on the far right and while in that menu press up-down-up-down-up-down and then enter. Once in the service menu, click over two times to the left and you will be in the menu to adjust the iris. Once in this menu, adjust both the min aperture AND current aperture setting to the same number (they are at 12 by default). For my setup, I bump both down to 6 which gets me where I need to be, but you can go higher or lower if you need to. smile.gif

Thanks Toe.

I went in the service menu and the max aperture shows 72 and the min aberture is 13. Does this sound weird since you say the default is 12?

Tom
post #16 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Monahan View Post

Thanks Toe.

I went in the service menu and the max aperture shows 72 and the min aberture is 13. Does this sound weird since you say the default is 12?

Tom

My bad Tom, sorry. Adjust "aperture position" and "aperture minimum" and leave "aperture max" at 72. I just checked my notes as I made sure to write down what the default values were before I changed the aperture position and aperture minimum settings and they were both at 12. Not sure why mine is/was at 12 and yours at 13, but probably not an issue. What is interesting is I just noticed my aperture max is also one lower than yours and is at 71. confused.gif Nothing to worry about I dont think, but interesting all the same. So just to reemphasize, leave the "aperture max" setting right where it is and only adjust the "aperture position" and "aperture minimum" and when you adjust those 2 put them both at the same setting. Make sure Dynamic Black is off in the regular menu as well which you probably know as this is the DI and in order to use the iris manually, dynamic black needs to be off.
Edited by Toe - 3/6/13 at 6:09pm
post #17 of 17
Thread Starter 
It works great set at six for me as well.

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tom
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