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*Official* Roku 3 Streaming Player Thread - Page 48

post #1411 of 1724
@bodean

If your not concerned about the user interface than in all honesty I would still suggest the wdtv streaming media player. There is nothing that touches it's list of playback file support. It will connect to Windows shares and uses dlna perfectly. It will also connect to plex sever but I don't recommend doing that. Just use it for dlna.

The Roku is faster and has a nicer ui but limited on file support. I just purchased a Roku 3 today but I have a quad core Intel machine doing the Plex transcoding if its needed.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #1412 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn View Post

@bodean

If your not concerned about the user interface than in all honesty I would still suggest the wdtv streaming media player. There is nothing that touches it's list of playback file support. It will connect to Windows shares and uses dlna perfectly. It will also connect to plex sever but I don't recommend doing that. Just use it for dlna.

The Roku is faster and has a nicer ui but limited on file support. I just purchased a Roku 3 today but I have a quad core Intel machine doing the Plex transcoding if its needed.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the suggestion. I am not seeing a huge UPGRADE going WDTV over my Boxee Box though. Seems like both are on par with eachother, no?
post #1413 of 1724
Actually I apologize for not researching the specs of the boxee. I have no clue how it compares. I just know that most so called experts say the wdtv is the best dlna streamer on the planet. I assume that is the standard you will be using most of?

I'm a sucker for ui's and can't stand for something to be slow so my only reason for getting the Roku is because it has a plex app and a very fast processor. If your not having issues with the boxee you already own I would stick to that until something new in 2014 releases, maybe the new Apple TV. But who knows that may also be limited with local content as well.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
post #1414 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by undecided View Post

I know there are others - but most consumer devices either use or have an option to use YCbCr which makes sense as pretty much all content is sourced as YCbCr.

Yes a correctly set up RGB - RGB system should look indentical to a correctly set up YCbCr - YCbCr system but my experience is that devices that only output RGB have more potential for issues.

Roku 2 is a good example. When it was initially released it output PC level RGB 0 - 255 causing issues with many TVs at the time which expected RGB Standard 16 - 235 (per the HDMI spec). After a lot of complaints on the Roku forums they eventually confirmed that per the HDMI spec RGB should be 16 - 235 and fixed it in a software update. This fixed the issue for many whose TVs (including my main TV at the time) expected RGB Standard 16 - 235 - but broke it for many other TVs (including my kitchen Samsung TV which expected RGB 0 - 255). Admittedly these second set of TVs are out of the HDMI spec - but that included a lot of mainstream TVs.

As an added wrinkle the Roku 2 RGB levels (even after the fix) seemed to have an issue with some receivers (including mine) switching between standard/PC and non-standard RGB depending on the source.

So yes if all the devices are within the HDMI spec or allow switching between standard/non-standard RGB everything will work fine - but I have seen too many issues with out of spec devices messing with the color spec and black levels - and now will always get a consumer video device that support YCbCr at least as an option. With YCbCr there is no risk of confusion on black level or color space.

It seems like I have the opposite problem. I have a Roku 2, the one that says XD on top and a Panasonic S64. When using it I have to switch the TV to RGB Nonstandard or else it's way too dark. I would have thought it should be the opposite? Also, when using the Nonstandard mode on the TV will my calibration still be intact? The picture seems to look a bit different, but it's hard to tell for sure as it's not that easy to switch back and forth and compare a stream off the built-in internet app on the tv. The stream from the Netflix app on the tv actually looks better. Thanks.
post #1415 of 1724
Does anyone know if it's possible to change DNS settings etc on a Roku 3? I would like to test my VPN servers in Phoenix. My VPN gives me 24/7 Super HD at Netflix but without it I only get 240p. With my VPN I always connect to the cdn at 40000 kbps.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
post #1416 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn View Post

Does anyone know if it's possible to change DNS settings etc on a Roku 3? I would like to test my VPN servers in Phoenix. My VPN gives me 24/7 Super HD at Netflix but without it I only get 240p. With my VPN I always connect to the cdn at 40000 kbps.

No such setting on Rokus.
post #1417 of 1724
The Roku players don't have VPN settings or DNS settings, but if you actually mean that you want to use a DNS location-changing service rather than a true VPN, then you can do that by changing the DNS address in your router instead of in the Roku.

You can also use DHCP server software to issue your own DNS settings to the Roku player via DHCP without affecting the other devices on your network.
post #1418 of 1724
Ok thanks for the information. I will do some further research and contact my VPN service for additional advice.

I'm amazed at how fast the lax Netflix CDN is. I wish all our devices would connect to it simultaneously, instead of only the computers.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
post #1419 of 1724

Can I change outputting "full" 0-255 color to (16-235) on my roku 3?

Because watching shows.movies on hbo are just too dark and having to change my calibrated tv from standard (16-235) to non standard is silly and probably affects my pro calibration.

 

Apple tv 3 has these options to fix the dark issues.

  1. Using the Play/Pause button, switch between Auto, YCbCr, RGB High and RGB Low until you find the setting that provides the optimal brightness level. Look at the Apple TV image on screen to pick a setting that shows you the most detail in the image.

 

Does ROKU have something similar?


Edited by Mrwhite2 - 3/2/14 at 5:04pm
post #1420 of 1724

I posted this in a different AVS forum, but this seems more appropriate here, sorry about that.

 

I am looking to hook up a Roku 3 to my Panasonic HDTV and Panasonic HTIB receiver -- both from 2007.

 

My plan is to plug the Roku 3 into an HDMI Switcher/Extractor, and then send HDMI to my TV (for video) and Optical Audio to my receiver (for audio).  Any recommendations among the below?  

 

Monoprice sells a 4x1 Switcher (item 5557) that accomplishes what I need.  I don't have any need for the other 3 inputs, but I figured it can't hurt to have extra capacity.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=5557&seq=1&format=2

 

Any reason I should get this instead?

http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E

 

Or this from Monoprice (item 10251)?

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011412&p_id=10251&seq=1&format=2

 

THANKS FOR YOUR ADVICE!

 

-JASON

post #1421 of 1724
I wonder if when Roku develops their next flagship box will it 4K compatible & if it'll have wireless AC built in.
post #1422 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by maddog510 View Post

I wonder if when Roku develops their next flagship box will it 4K compatible & if it'll have wireless AC built in.

4K support seems likely (with required support for H.265/HEVC, which should reduce the bandwidth for all Netflix resolutions by 40-50%). I'm doubting wireless AC. Do you know some other streaming STB that's an access point?
post #1423 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeltscott View Post

4K support seems likely (with required support for H.265/HEVC, which should reduce the bandwidth for all Netflix resolutions by 40-50%). I'm doubting wireless AC. Do you know some other streaming STB that's an access point?
For a next gen device it all makes sense. AC more so than 4k I think. H.265 to improve video quality over the same bandwidth.
I'm all wired here but I'd like h.265 to reduce my local file sizes.
post #1424 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by archer75 View Post

For a next gen device it all makes sense. AC more so than 4k I think. H.265 to improve video quality over the same bandwidth.
I'm all wired here but I'd like h.265 to reduce my local file sizes.

Why does AC make sense to you? It's a significant function requiring a large amount of code and effort to implement and maintain, which only a minor subset of customers is likely to use. Roku is not wont to that kind of over-engineering, preferring to keep their product lean and inexpensive. 4K makes sense because Netflix, VUDU and Amazon are all planning on rolling out 4K content. Of course, all of this year's crop of 4K Smart TVs supposedly have a 4K-capable Netflix app out of the box.

I'm planning to upgrade my 7 y/o 46" Mitsubishi LCD panel and I'm going to try to hold out for a 55" Vizio P-Series UHDTV.
post #1425 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeltscott View Post

Why does AC make sense to you? It's a significant function requiring a large amount of code and effort to implement and maintain, which only a minor subset of customers is likely to use. Roku is not wont to that kind of over-engineering, preferring to keep their product lean and inexpensive. 4K makes sense because Netflix, VUDU and Amazon are all planning on rolling out 4K content. Of course, all of this year's crop of 4K Smart TVs supposedly have a 4K-capable Netflix app out of the box.

I'm planning to upgrade my 7 y/o 46" Mitsubishi LCD panel and I'm going to try to hold out for a 55" Vizio P-Series UHDTV.
because AC has been here for awhile now and the speed is needed for good video quality. I'm not sure h.265 is finalized yet? 4k content will take time. I know Netflix is working on it but cable and sat are behind and people won't rush out to buy new tv's.
I have a Chromecast now and it only supports N and the quality difference between it and my wired roku is massive. Thus my opinion that AC makes more sense now.
I personally don't care about AC but I think it makes the most sense for the market. If we are picking and choosing. If we are talking about my wish list it's h.265
post #1426 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by archer75 View Post

I have a Chromecast now and it only supports N and the quality difference between it and my wired roku is massive. Thus my opinion that AC makes more sense now.
I personally don't care about AC but I think it makes the most sense for the market. If we are picking and choosing. If we are talking about my wish list it's h.265

Sorry--I misunderstood you. You were talking about 802.11ac and somehow I was reading it as "ap". I have no opinion about that since I only use wireless for portable devices.
post #1427 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeltscott View Post

4K support seems likely (with required support for H.265/HEVC, which should reduce the bandwidth for all Netflix resolutions by 40-50%). I'm doubting wireless AC. Do you know some other streaming STB that's an access point?
The P Series Vizio sets are going to have 802.11 AC so I would expect future 4K sets & set top boxes will support the wireless band.
post #1428 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by maddog510 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeltscott View Post

4K support seems likely (with required support for H.265/HEVC, which should reduce the bandwidth for all Netflix resolutions by 40-50%). I'm doubting wireless AC. Do you know some other streaming STB that's an access point?
The P Series Vizio sets are going to have 802.11 AC so I would expect future 4K sets & set top boxes will support the wireless band.

Again, for some reason I thought that he was talking about access point functionality. My bad.
post #1429 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by archer75 View Post

because AC has been here for awhile now and the speed is needed for good video quality. I'm not sure h.265 is finalized yet? 4k content will take time. I know Netflix is working on it but cable and sat are behind and people won't rush out to buy new tv's.
I have a Chromecast now and it only supports N and the quality difference between it and my wired roku is massive. Thus my opinion that AC makes more sense now.
I personally don't care about AC but I think it makes the most sense for the market. If we are picking and choosing. If we are talking about my wish list it's h.265

I can get good throughput with 5Ghz N right now. No need for AC for a streaming service. I can get 150Mb/s throughput from my laptops over wireless and around 120Mb/s over 2.4Ghz. I have zero issues streaming a BD ISO from them over wireless. So low bitrate 4K content from Netflix certainly would not have any problems.

Of course my WiFi network is properly setup too. Most WiFi networks are not. They need to have multiple APs, not be saturated and not using congested channels to be setup properly. Unfortunately most homes only have one AP and people have problems and think WiFi is bad. When the problem is that their WiFi network is not setup correctly. I can't count the number of places I've been with WiFi issues because the wireless network was never setup properly.
Edited by aaronwt - 3/2/14 at 10:19pm
post #1430 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrwhite2 View Post

Can I change outputting "full" 0-255 color to (16-235) on my roku 3?
Because watching shows.movies on hbo are just too dark and having to change my calibrated tv from standard (16-235) to non standard is silly and probably affects my pro calibration.

Apple tv 3 has these options to fix the dark issues.
  1. Using the Play/Pause button, switch between Auto, , RGB High and RGB Low until you find the setting that provides the optimal brightness level. Look at the Apple TV image on screen to pick a setting that shows you the most detail in the image.

Does ROKU have something similar?

My understanding is the Roku's 2 & 3 output standard (16-235) RGB .

I have a Roku 2 XS which outputs standard (16-235) RGB. When it was first released it did output full (0 - 255) RGB which didn't play well with many TVs at the time (including my main TV). Roku then changed after about 6 months to standard (16-235) RGB which is the HDMI standard for consumer devices. It fixed it for my main TV at the time but broke it for our kitchen TV (a Samsung but obviously not compliant with the HDMI spec).

I am a little surprised your Roku 3 is outputting "full" 0-255 RGB - but wonder if you are seeing an issue I had with the Roku 2 and my receiver - for 5.1 audio sources it would think it was getting "full" 0-255 RGB from the Roku but for 2.0 audio sources it would think it was getting standard (16-235) RGB from the Roku - as a result 5.1 material had it blacks (and whites) crushed. It is for this reason my preference would always be for a device that could output YCbCr (Apple TV, Chromecast, most Blu-Ray players etc)

When the Roku 4 (or whatever it is called) comes along I really hope it supports YCbCr like all other consumer devices. Even better would be 24P output.
post #1431 of 1724

I have no proof that it is running I'm just guessing because out of all my devices it is the only one in which HBOGO/NETFLIX runs extremely dark. I had somewhat of an issue with apple tv3 but was able to fix in the rgb setting which as far as I can tell tell ROKU 3 does not have.

post #1432 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonAlan View Post

I posted this in a different AVS forum, but this seems more appropriate here, sorry about that.

I am looking to hook up a Roku 3 to my Panasonic HDTV and Panasonic HTIB receiver -- both from 2007.

My plan is to plug the Roku 3 into an HDMI Switcher/Extractor, and then send HDMI to my TV (for video) and Optical Audio to my receiver (for audio).  Any recommendations among the below?  

Monoprice sells a 4x1 Switcher (item 5557) that accomplishes what I need.  I don't have any need for the other 3 inputs, but I figured it can't hurt to have extra capacity.
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=5557&seq=1&format=2

Any reason I should get this instead?
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E

Or this from Monoprice (item 10251)?
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011412&p_id=10251&seq=1&format=2

THANKS FOR YOUR ADVICE!

-JASON

I went through this a couple of months ago. I wound up buying the J-Tech and I'm pleased with it.

I looked at the first Monoprice. I have a lot of their cables and I am happy with those. I didn't need the four inputs and in the customer reviews, it seemed when it worked, it worked, but too many comments on units that arrived DOA and had to be exchanged. There is a 2nd 4-in switcher, about twice the price, but a lot fewer DOA comments. If I needed 4 inputs, I would have bought it. Either the 2nd Monoprice didn't exist when I was looking or I missed it. It seems more comparable to the J-Tech. I only bought the J-Tech so I can't help you choose. However, I am completely satisfied with the J-Tech, it does exactly what it says. I just leave the switch set to the 5.1 position all the time; if the source is only DD2.0, it just transports that, no need to change the switch.

A caution on expectations. Amazon Prime and some other services use legacy Digital Dolby 5.1 and any of these work with that. However, Netflix (and a few others) are using the newer Digital Dolby Plus. That can't be transported over Toslink, only HDMI, and these devices don't support it. You would be limited to stereo. Some devices will "downcode" DD+ to legacy DD5.1 and transport over Toslink. Neither the Roku nor these devices will do so. I have Amazon Prime and haven't tried Netflix yet, however, I also have a Tivo that has Netflix app. Per one review I read it will downcode Netflix DD+ to the optical output so I think I am covered. The other solution is a new audio receiver with HDMI in, DD+, etc.
post #1433 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnS-MI View Post


I went through this a couple of months ago. I wound up buying the J-Tech and I'm pleased with it.

I looked at the first Monoprice. I have a lot of their cables and I am happy with those. I didn't need the four inputs and in the customer reviews, it seemed when it worked, it worked, but too many comments on units that arrived DOA and had to be exchanged. There is a 2nd 4-in switcher, about twice the price, but a lot fewer DOA comments. If I needed 4 inputs, I would have bought it. Either the 2nd Monoprice didn't exist when I was looking or I missed it. It seems more comparable to the J-Tech. I only bought the J-Tech so I can't help you choose. However, I am completely satisfied with the J-Tech, it does exactly what it says. I just leave the switch set to the 5.1 position all the time; if the source is only DD2.0, it just transports that, no need to change the switch.

A caution on expectations. Amazon Prime and some other services use legacy Digital Dolby 5.1 and any of these work with that. However, Netflix (and a few others) are using the newer Digital Dolby Plus. That can't be transported over Toslink, only HDMI, and these devices don't support it. You would be limited to stereo. Some devices will "downcode" DD+ to legacy DD5.1 and transport over Toslink. Neither the Roku nor these devices will do so. I have Amazon Prime and haven't tried Netflix yet, however, I also have a Tivo that has Netflix app. Per one review I read it will downcode Netflix DD+ to the optical output so I think I am covered. The other solution is a new audio receiver with HDMI in, DD+, etc.

Thanks for your advice.  I am considering getting the J-Tech, as I want something the "just works".

 

I have read about this DD+ issue with Netflix -- when the sound comes out as "stereo" will it still come out of my rear speakers?

post #1434 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonAlan View Post

Thanks for your advice.  I am considering getting the J-Tech, as I want something the "just works".

I have read about this DD+ issue with Netflix -- when the sound comes out as "stereo" will it still come out of my rear speakers?

It depends, but "probably." Does your AVR offer Dolby Pro Logic II? DPLII attempts to "synthesize" 4 channels from 2, adding a center and center rear; your receiver will route the center rear to both rears in a 5.1 setup. How good it is is a matter of opinion. Some people like it most of the time, some people think it sounds "fake." At best it is dependent on the material. If the material has good stereo separation, it can be OK. If left and right are nearly the same, it sounds nearly monaural from the center speaker (and much narrower than stereo) with a little sound from the rear(s). I mostly turn it off, going to straight stereo, but there is SOME material where I enjoy it.

There are some threads on the Roku forums on this DD+ issue. Some people there claim DPLII sounds "almost" as good as DD5.1; I am NOT in the camp. There is material where it is better than stereo, there is material where it is worse. I don't think it is comparable to real 5.1.

For the moment I am not too worried as Amazon and Netflix overlap so much. If/when I try Netflix, either my Tivo solves the problem or I need a new AVR.

Does your TV an optical output? Even with Dolby in, it will probably only output stereo (true of my TV and MANY older TVs). But if so, hook it up and try the stereo out of TV decoded to Dolby Pro Logic II and form your own opinion.

Edit: I just noticed your AVR is actually a HTIB. Some of these (with built-in DVD or Blu Ray player) only decode DD5.1 from their internal sources, not from their optical input. If you tune your TV to an HD channel with DD5.1, and use TV's optical output, does the HTIB decode it? Also discussion on that issue in Roku forum.
Edited by JohnS-MI - 3/3/14 at 7:44am
post #1435 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnS-MI View Post


It depends, but "probably." Does your AVR offer Dolby Pro Logic II? DPLII attempts to "synthesize" 4 channels from 2, adding a center and center rear; your receiver will route the center rear to both rears in a 5.1 setup. How good it is is a matter of opinion. Some people like it most of the time, some people think it sounds "fake." At best it is dependent on the material. If the material has good stereo separation, it can be OK. If left and right are nearly the same, it sounds nearly monaural from the center speaker (and much narrower than stereo) with a little sound from the rear(s). I mostly turn it off, going to straight stereo, but there is SOME material where I enjoy it.

There are some threads on the Roku forums on this DD+ issue. Some people there claim DPLII sounds "almost" as good as DD5.1; I am NOT in the camp. There is material where it is better than stereo, there is material where it is worse. I don't think it is comparable to real 5.1.

For the moment I am not too worried as Amazon and Netflix overlap so much. If/when I try Netflix, either my Tivo solves the problem or I need a new AVR.

Does your TV an optical output? Even with Dolby in, it will probably only output stereo (true of my TV and MANY older TVs). But if so, hook it up and try the stereo out of TV decoded to Dolby Pro Logic II and form your own opinion.

Thanks for your response, that is helpful.  Yes, my AVR does offer Dolby Pro Logic II.

 

When you say that you "mostly turn it off, going straight to stereo" -- what do you mean?  That you turn Dolby off on your AVR?  Or is there a way to change the setting in Netflix/Roku?

 

My TV does have optical output, but the TV is mounted on the wall so I don't really have access to it anymore or any of the other outputs on the TV.

post #1436 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonAlan View Post

Thanks for your response, that is helpful.  Yes, my AVR does offer Dolby Pro Logic II.

When you say that you "mostly turn it off, going straight to stereo" -- what do you mean?  That you turn Dolby off on your AVR?  Or is there a way to change the setting in Netflix/Roku?

My TV does have optical output, but the TV is mounted on the wall so I don't really have access to it anymore or any of the other outputs on the TV.

My AVR has a Surround On/Off switch. In the Off position, even DD5.1 or DTS is forced to stereo.
In the on position DD5.1 in decodes to DD5.1 (not a surprise) and either analog stereo, PCM or DD2.0 all decode to Dolby Pro Logic II.
It offers no way to force DD5.1 to DPLII. At any rate, on two channel sources, I may try both DPLII and stereo to see which I prefer. The generic answer is on music, (almost) always stereo, on TV programs and movies in stereo, may be either/or. As we say in auto industry, YMMV (your mileage may vary).

With Netflix using DD+, there is a way to set default stereo in your Netflix account or in Roku settings. You might have to do that since you don't have anything that can decode DD+. It might also happen automatically during the "handshake" portion of the HDMI, where the connected equipment negotiates what it can offer and handle. I don't fully understand that negotiation, just that there is one. As I said, I haven't tried Netflix yet.
post #1437 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnS-MI View Post


My AVR has a Surround On/Off switch. In the Off position, even DD5.1 or DTS is forced to stereo.
In the on position DD5.1 in decodes to DD5.1 (not a surprise) and either analog stereo, PCM or DD2.0 all decode to Dolby Pro Logic II.
It offers no way to force DD5.1 to DPLII. At any rate, on two channel sources, I may try both DPLII and stereo to see which I prefer. The generic answer is on music, (almost) always stereo, on TV programs and movies in stereo, may be either/or. As we say in auto industry, YMMV (your mileage may vary).

With Netflix using DD+, there is a way to set default stereo in your Netflix account or in Roku settings. You might have to do that since you don't have anything that can decode DD+. It might also happen automatically during the "handshake" portion of the HDMI, where the connected equipment negotiates what it can offer and handle. I don't fully understand that negotiation, just that there is one. As I said, I haven't tried Netflix yet.

Got it -- thank you very much for the explanation.

post #1438 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonAlan View Post

Got it -- thank you very much for the explanation.

Obviously a matter of taste, but if you watch much TV, I'd be frantic to get that optical output from the TV. All the major networks are DD5.1 on 24/7 basis whether or not the material is. On prime time programs, it adds a lot to the program. If you DVR everything and watch later, maybe you do it through DVR, but prime time programming really benefits from DD5.1.
post #1439 of 1724
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnS-MI View Post


Obviously a matter of taste, but if you watch much TV, I'd be frantic to get that optical output from the TV. All the major networks are DD5.1 on 24/7 basis whether or not the material is. On prime time programs, it adds a lot to the program. If you DVR everything and watch later, maybe you do it through DVR, but prime time programming really benefits from DD5.1.

My current setup has the optical output going out from the cable box and into the AVR -- so I think I have been benefiting from the 5.1.  But I am going to be getting rid of cable and basically will replace the cable box with the Roku box -- so instead of the cable box being connected to the TV with HDMI and connected to the AVR with optical audio, these same connections will just come from the Roku (through the J-Tech box).

post #1440 of 1724
I have to install one of these today on my brother's TV. I completely forgot about it not having any dedicated audio outputs. So now I have to use the optical output on the TV to supply audio to his Logitech speakers. I assume everything will be converted to stereo now? I hope he doesn't notice... Lol

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
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