I have gotten my battered Polaroid DRM 2001-G machine back to life, after a long road. It had been dropped before I owned it, and I got it in close to new condition, from a reseller years ago. It never booted up right, and the tray was flaky for several years I have owned it. Apparently it had been dropped, then rigged to work. It had a broken spoke off the disc tray, and was rigged to make the tray catch the next spoke(by cocking the tray with a wad of foam from a DVD package. On top of that, the the power board had a corner broken off, that separated the top trace on the board near the harness connections. Not sure the fan ever worked, or if it was taken out by the broken trace on the power board; but I finally lost the big capacitor, and two others were bulging. I jumpered the broken trace by soldering in a wire, replaced 3 capacitors, and replaced the fan; and it works better than it ever has. I don't have to boot it from a wall switch anymore. It is also more stable, and not wasting discs. I also found several screw mounts broken off; which makes me think it was dropped.
I got the new Sony drive in the unit, which took some plumber's strap mounted on the rear side mounts of the drive; then through drilled holes in the bottom. Two sheet metal screws driven just to either side of the front mounts through the bottom that keep the front secured left to right, a screw up through the very front that was already there was made longer....and a quarter to level the tray through the door, up top between the drive and the upper front bracket. If I had it to do again, I would cut a square piece of aluminum slightly larger than the drive, mount the plate to the bottom of the drive, then mount the plate. The beveled mounts for the original drive, and the holes very close to the edges of the new drive; make a difficult retrofit.
Now, I got a new burner, and I have gotten it to recognize my WD3200AAJB Caviar SE hard drive(152 hours of recording time showing). It wasn't pretty, or easy, with what I got to work with; but it seems to work great. I also made up a molex chord, using the original non standard burner chord. I took the original chord that fed the burner, chopped it in half; then I salvaged a pair of molex plugs on a harness, with a floppy plug at the end(from an old burned power supply someone gave me). I put one end of the original cut chord, to the power board end of the salvaged cable; then cut the floppy connector off, and put the other end of the original drive cable on that end. I used wire nuts, but crimps will also work fine. So what ya got, is two molex connectors in the middle of the old chord basically. This way you could plug the old drive back if you want, and have an extra molex. I would not use more than one at a time, lest you know the wattage of the burner consumption on the power board. If you will never use the original drive and it is trash; you can just put a molex on the original cable end feeding the drive. Be sure to go wire for wire, and don't switch the blacks(though it should not make any difference).
Now my problem; using the above mentioned hard-drive(WD3200AAJB Caviar SE), and the original drive; I can not seem to get both drives to show. I have a proper 40 conductor twin IDE ribbon cable, flipped properly at the board. I tried flipping, and flopping, and swapping every way I could. The best I got, was a hot swap that gave me a garbled menu, and a strange red lock symbol in the preview box. Nothing worked. I sat them right there and verified operation by themselves; but as soon as I put them both on together, it went into a perpetual boot cycle most of the time. Can someone tell me if this Caviar SE drive might be the difference, and keeping them from booting together? I even tried erasing, with both drives on the harness; but still would not boot together. By themselves they seem to boot fine. I have not run the larger drive past the 37 hours to see if the time is really there yet; but it shows anyway. Anyone got any idea at all? I am thinking my next step might be to get the exact older drive, we know that works. Maybe someone knows, if this particular drive I am trying to use, will work in the multi-drive set up for the Polroid. It seems to do fine by itself so far. Comes right up.
Thank You, I know this is long; I have been at this a while. Sorry for any re-posting.
I got the new Sony drive in the unit, which took some plumber's strap mounted on the rear side mounts of the drive; then through drilled holes in the bottom. Two sheet metal screws driven just to either side of the front mounts through the bottom that keep the front secured left to right, a screw up through the very front that was already there was made longer....and a quarter to level the tray through the door, up top between the drive and the upper front bracket. If I had it to do again, I would cut a square piece of aluminum slightly larger than the drive, mount the plate to the bottom of the drive, then mount the plate. The beveled mounts for the original drive, and the holes very close to the edges of the new drive; make a difficult retrofit.
Now, I got a new burner, and I have gotten it to recognize my WD3200AAJB Caviar SE hard drive(152 hours of recording time showing). It wasn't pretty, or easy, with what I got to work with; but it seems to work great. I also made up a molex chord, using the original non standard burner chord. I took the original chord that fed the burner, chopped it in half; then I salvaged a pair of molex plugs on a harness, with a floppy plug at the end(from an old burned power supply someone gave me). I put one end of the original cut chord, to the power board end of the salvaged cable; then cut the floppy connector off, and put the other end of the original drive cable on that end. I used wire nuts, but crimps will also work fine. So what ya got, is two molex connectors in the middle of the old chord basically. This way you could plug the old drive back if you want, and have an extra molex. I would not use more than one at a time, lest you know the wattage of the burner consumption on the power board. If you will never use the original drive and it is trash; you can just put a molex on the original cable end feeding the drive. Be sure to go wire for wire, and don't switch the blacks(though it should not make any difference).
Now my problem; using the above mentioned hard-drive(WD3200AAJB Caviar SE), and the original drive; I can not seem to get both drives to show. I have a proper 40 conductor twin IDE ribbon cable, flipped properly at the board. I tried flipping, and flopping, and swapping every way I could. The best I got, was a hot swap that gave me a garbled menu, and a strange red lock symbol in the preview box. Nothing worked. I sat them right there and verified operation by themselves; but as soon as I put them both on together, it went into a perpetual boot cycle most of the time. Can someone tell me if this Caviar SE drive might be the difference, and keeping them from booting together? I even tried erasing, with both drives on the harness; but still would not boot together. By themselves they seem to boot fine. I have not run the larger drive past the 37 hours to see if the time is really there yet; but it shows anyway. Anyone got any idea at all? I am thinking my next step might be to get the exact older drive, we know that works. Maybe someone knows, if this particular drive I am trying to use, will work in the multi-drive set up for the Polroid. It seems to do fine by itself so far. Comes right up.
Thank You, I know this is long; I have been at this a while. Sorry for any re-posting.













