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Faced or unfaced insulation location.

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
I have an exterior wall 1/2 framing and 1/2 concrete.
I plan on framing a few inches in-front of it to clear some pipes, and make the wall smooth end-to-end.
So I'll have about 4-6 inches between interior framing and exterior framing.
I planned on using faced R19 insulation on the exterior 2x6 walls, but apparently faced insulation requires an approved covering with substantial contact?
Due to it being a fire hazard. So can i just use unfaced batts, or should i put faced batts on the interior framing?

My concern is the air behind this interior framed wall would be approximately outdoor tempertures?

What should i do?

obligatory pic of said wall'
post #2 of 10
Thread Starter 
So i guess no opinions/suggestions.

Today im gonna pick up some unfaced R30 insulation and put it in the exterior walls.

Wonder if it will stay put without the facing to staple to the studs?
post #3 of 10
I'm no expert, but if were me I'd just put the regular faced on your new, interior wall and leave the rest alone.

You don't say where you are and there are different standards depending on how cold it gets in the winter. I'm in VA and my basement is half underground and only the above ground areas were insulted as the ground doesn't get cold enough. I pulled all that and insulated using faced on my new stud walls. Passed code, no problem. It may be different where you are and REALLY cold walls can cause convection and you get condensation as the really cold air moves to warmer air.
post #4 of 10
Thread Starter 
Im in atlanta, where its rarely below freezing.

The gap leads to the bathroom and ultimately into an unfinished storage closet.
So any air flow would end up in the closet. So i thought insulating the outside wall would limit outside air entering this area?
post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
I ended up installing unfaced R30 in exterior walls, fit perfectly, hopefully no issues there.
post #6 of 10
A little late to the party, but I'm about two hours south of you. I called our building inspector before putting insulation in our basement, and he said vapor barriers are not required this far south. They can actually cause issues in some circumstances, but it's not an easy call. However, my situation is a little different in that I was insulating inside my concrete foundation. It looks like you are insulating the framed walls above your foundation. My advice would be to call you inspector and just ask his/her advice on the matter. Ours has been extremely helpful and friendly!
post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Yeah, i'm positive vapor barriers aren't required in my area. The questionable part is the layout of my walls.
Some of these walls aren't quite typical setups, which made me nervous going either way.

the damn gap between interior framing and foundation pretty much runs the length of 3 of the 4 walls.
So its likely to have a good bit of air flowing around, is that good or bad?

post #8 of 10
Have you considered have it spray foamed? Seems now is the time before the inside walls are finished..
post #9 of 10
In general, I would think the airflow around the gap is a good thing to help dissipate any moisture vapor that may occur.
post #10 of 10
Here's how I understand it, but the advice is worth what you're paying. In areas where a vapor barrier is required, you want to prevent the warm moist air from coming in contact with the concrete as it will cause condensation. In areas further south where no vapor barrier is required, the thinking is that the concrete will not get cold enough to cause condensation. That being the case, the air flow doesn't matter, and as Tom pointed out, may be helpful as the vapor drive in this part of the country will be from outside in and the air movement may help to dry any moisture that is there.

All that assumes that you don't have a moisture intrusion issue to begin with, but a vapor barrier wouldn't make a difference there anyway.

Another point to consider, and maybe this makes the decision easier, a faced insulation would have to have drywall against it to meet fire code. Since there is a gap, it needs to be unfaced (again, this is just what I've read on the ever-correct internet). You also need to consider fire blocking for those walls, which can get to be a pain. There needs to be blocking between the wall/ceiling as well as blocking every ten feet horizontally.
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