or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Home Entertainment & Theater Builder › Dedicated Theater Design & Construction › The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread - Page 2

post #31 of 460
Thread Starter 

We are about 1/2 way done with the lighting rough-in.  I got a great deal on a Lutron wall box power module which gives me 6 more zones for what I was going to pay for 3 zones of Vareo switches.  So now I have 11 zones available.  So I will be taking AirBenji's advice and I broke the task lights into a front and rear zones.  I also put the front sconces on a different zone as they were very close to the screen and would have to be off when the PJ was in use.  I also added the lights behind the stage.  This gives me one zone to spare for future use.

 

 

 

 

 

We should finish electrical on Thursday.  I would love to get on the low voltage this weekend as the wife will be out of town.


Attached is the updated lighting plan:

 

 

The Moving Pictures Theater - Lighting.pdf 108k .pdf file
post #32 of 460
Quote:
Originally Posted by avtexan View Post

We are about 1/2 way done with the lighting rough-in.  I got a great deal on a Lutron wall box power module which gives me 6 more zones for what I was going to pay for 3 zones of Vareo switches.  So now I have 11 zones available.  So I will be taking AirBenji's advice and I broke the task lights into a front and rear zones.  I also put the front sconces on a different zone as they were very close to the screen and would have to be off when the PJ was in use. I also added the lights behind the stage.  This gives me one zone to spare for future use.

I think that's a really smart move...I have seen other people who have regretted not doing that. Looks good!
post #33 of 460
+1. I know that was one of my regrets. I think you'll enjoy having the flexibility.

I've been meaning to ask you if your theater name is a nod to the rock trio from north of the border.
post #34 of 460
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I've been meaning to ask you if your theater name is a nod to the rock trio from north of the border.

 

Absolutely.  They have been my favorite band since I was a pup.  It is a nod to their best album and I thought the name had a nice HT context as well.  The other choices were La Villa Strangiato or Cygnus X-1 but I figured few folks would get that reference.  I need to rename my LCR's to Alex, Neil and Geddy.

post #35 of 460
Good choice! You can always use Cygnus X-1 or The Necromancer for your subwoofer.
post #36 of 460
Thread Starter 

The electrical rough-in is done!!  There was some tweaks along the way but I am happy with the way it turned out.  In addition to adding the extra zones I had the electrician pull 4 additional dedicated circuits to the media closet.  So now there is a dedicated circuit for each rack, each Lutron module, the popcorn machine, riser pugs and 1 spare.

 

post #37 of 460
Thread Starter 

Next up is low voltage.  Below is my initial thoughts.  I could use some help here.  What am I missing?  What would you do differently on your build if you could?

 

 

The Moving Pictures Theater - Low Voltage.pdf 9k .pdf file
Edited by avtexan - 3/29/13 at 6:24am
post #38 of 460
subscribe. I may need to pick your brain on the Lutron stuff
post #39 of 460
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

subscribe. I may need to pick your brain on the Lutron stuff

I would be glad to help.
post #40 of 460
Quote:
Originally Posted by avtexan View Post

I would be glad to help.
my house is being framed in as we speak. to have the whole house with lutron zones what all do you need other tha switches. You can PM me so as to not derail the thread.
post #41 of 460
I'm not expert at this, but here are a couple thoughts on your list.

  1. 3/4" flex is a little tight to pull cables through. You can definitely do it, but if you can get something larger in there, I would do it.
  2. You might also consider prewiring for subs at the front and rear. I don't know what placement limitations you are working with, but having lots of options for sub placement is a good thing! This is another place where conduits to the front, back, maybe the columns are a great idea because you don't have to pay for the cables, but it gives you the option to pull some cables there later.
  3. I would probably put a couple extra CATX in the riser JIK. It's cheap insurance against a broken cable, and it's versatile stuff.
  4. You didn't mention the PJ location. Obviously you'll need your HDMI, but it's also a good idea to have 2, 3, maybe even 4 CATX up there for future proofing. This is a spot where a 2" conduit is almost a necessity to accommodate future cabling standards and to allow you to replace that HDMI cable when the connector breaks.
  5. Most places require networked smoke detectors, but I believe they use a 14/3 and use the extra conductor for the network connection. I may be wrong there, but that's what my inspector told me. This is another item that I think a lot of people overlook, but it's very important to have a smoke detector that will alert you when another part of the house is on fire!
  6. Conduit to the riser would be good in case you decide you want a USB cable or headphone cable, or, or, or. You get the idea. The USB cable comes to mind for calibration purposes.

Just my random thoughts.

I'd also be interested in you thoughts on the Lutron install. If you decide to take it offline, I'd be interested in the pertinent bits of the PM.
post #42 of 460
Thread Starter 

I got the theater side of the media closet organized tonight.  It was a mess.  It looks so nice and neat on the closet side.  I had no idea how bad it was until I pulled the sheetrock.  I am ready to start pulling the new wire into the theater.

 

 

 

post #43 of 460
Thread Starter 

I am back from vacation and ready to get back to work! 

 

I spent some time working on the HVAC plan and talking with the HVAC contractor.  He seems to have a good grasp of the situation.  My instructions to him: From DE "You'll want two supplies (typically in the front of the room, high mounted) and two returns (high mounted) in the back of the room. You do not want air flow directly on any seating location. You do not want a velocity of more than 250 FPM through any vent (diffuser). You want six air exchanges per hour and 15 CFM of fresh air per person.

 

The Home Theater is upstairs and shares a HVAC unit with 2 bedrooms and a bathroom. I will also run a T-Stat wire to the room in case I want to zone the room at a later date.

 

SUPPLY

The plan is to utilize the current 9" flex duct with a Y split for (2) 7" flex ducts into soffits on each side of the room.  The soffits will be filled with R-6.7 insulation.  I will use 36" x 4" Nailor linear bar registers in the front of the room.

 

RETURN

I will have a 10" sch 80 PVC pipe feed a 10' x 20" x 20" dead vent that will hold a 10" flex duct.  The dead vent will be filled with R-13 insulation.  A Honeywell 20x25 F-100 air cleaner will be installed at the unit.

 

I have ZERO experience with HVAC design.  Any thoughts would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

 

Attached is a sketch of the current plan.

 

 

 

The Moving Pictures Theater - HVAC.pdf 115k .pdf file
post #44 of 460
Thread Starter 

Any ideas or thoughts on the HVAC plan?  I need to get the train rolling again.

post #45 of 460
There is insufficient information presented to offer a solid opinion. The entire HVAC system's supply and return lines would need to be identified, including the size of the main supply and return trunk lines (including if these are rigid or flexible), how many take-offs you have and the general configuration (i.e. length, number of bends, etc.). The other critical information is concerning your actual system, the size of the blower motor and the available CFM capacity. Then there are more advanced inputs such as is your HVAC system is two-stage, if it has a variable speed fan and if you intend to zone this system, creating one exclusively for the theater. You get to see my point.

That being said, in my own system I will have two six" flex supply lines, each capable of carrying up to 100 CFM. Taking into account my system's characteristics, a 24" x 4" Nailor diffuser was more than sufficient size to keep the fpm under 250 according to the CFM calculations. Your proposed 36" x 4" diffusers are WAY over-sized to do the job, even with a 7" supply line and maximum CFM rating for that flex line.
post #46 of 460

Any updates on your build?

post #47 of 460
Thread Starter 

Pretty solid weekend of work.  Only 2 trips to Home Depot this weekend so that was an improvement.  By the way I am convinced that I could build a home theater INSIDE of a Home Depot in 2 weeks. 

 

I did have a nasty fall off of the ladder into the wood scrap pile.  Very lucky that no major damage was done.

 

I got all of the low voltage done.  Boy am I happy to be done with that.

 

 

 

 

The Moving Pictures Theater - Low Voltage.pdf 9k .pdf file

 

 

 

 

Next up was building the joist muffler for the HVAC return.  Its a tight space in the back.  My original plan was for a decoupled dead vent but the slope of the roof and the dimensions of the (2) 7" supply and (1) 10" returns made that not possible.

 

So after a discussion with Ted White I decided to go with a joist muffler.

 

As a side note:  Ted has been great to work with and even called me back on a Saturday to get me lined up.  TWO THUMBS UP!!smile.gif

 

Here is the space that I have to work with:

 

 

 

I have started the construction of the joist cavity for the 10" return.  The return will enter the cavity on the left and go 10 feet to the right towards the smurf tube that you see above.  The side are the (3) 2x12 and (2) 2x12 seen above.  The top and bottom will be 3/4" PW.  The inside will be GG + 5/8" DW + GG + 5/8" DW.  Insulation will be on all interior sides.

 

The 9" supply will come in on the left side as well and split into (2) 7" ducts that will go to the left and right over the joist cavity and each will follow the slope of the roof down into the soffits that are inside the sound proof shell.

 

I need to extend the sides down 3-4" and make the hole for the return.  Seal it up with acoustic caulk and then on to GG+DW of the interior.

 

As always I am open to any suggestions.

 


Edited by avtexan - 6/2/13 at 9:56pm
post #48 of 460
Coming along nicely here - Looks like quite a bit of cabling in those pics...nice work!

p.s. - I already gave Home Depot all of my money...I'm certainly not in the mood to build them a theater as well. smile.gif
post #49 of 460
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post

Coming along nicely here - Looks like quite a bit of cabling in those pics...nice work!

 

You are correct AirBenji.  There is a cable or two here.  All of the RG6 for DirecTV  / OTA and Cat5e for phone lines are on the other side.

 

post #50 of 460
Thread Starter 

Well we were out of town this weekend so I did not get started until about 5:00pm on Sunday.  I did get the sides finished on the joist muffler box and got it sealed up.  I will get the GG and DW started tonight and then finish the bottom on Tuesday.  I hope to have the HVAC guys in here on Wed and Insulation on Friday.  If I can stay on schedule we could see some walls by next week!

 

At the far end is where the 10" return will enter the box.

 

 

 

 

 

At the far end is where the "chimney" will be for the entry through the clips and channel.

post #51 of 460
Thread Starter 

The HVAC guys moved my date back to Friday so I took last night off.  Tonight I got about 1/3 of the way on GG & DW for the muffler box. It is slow going but I am making some headway.  If I can get started early I may be able to finish tomorrow.

post #52 of 460
Thread Starter 

I finished the joist muffler tonight.  The HVAC guys will be in here in the morning to run the lines and I will loosely fill the gaps with insulation and close it up.  YEAH!!!

 

 

 

 

 

I also got 3 walls of clips done.  I just need to do the back wall and ceiling.  I hit a couple of snaps with the clips.  I put some electrical boxes right were the channel needed to go and had to move the boxes.  Note for next time...mark your channels and THEN place your boxes.

post #53 of 460
Thread Starter 

The HVAC rough is in.  We had to change it up a bit but I am happy with the results.  In the original plan the 7" supply lines ran in a soffit on the left and right side.  When I added everything up the net head room under the soffit fell to 6'-5".  So now I will build the soffits inside the coffered ceiling.  I hated to give up some of the coffer width but it was the best trade off for ceiling height.  Now the back of the room is 8' and then 9' under the coffer and 9' and 10' in the front.

 

The 10" return fit in the muffler box just right.  YEAH!!! 

 

 

 

We also moved the return air for the downstairs.  It was blocking the entry to the left side of the theater.  Now the return comes into a box that will be under the riser floor.  I am working with Ted on how to sound proof this box.  I have a little more than 2" above the box so I can do the same as the rest of the floor (3/8" serenity mat + 3/4" OSB + GG + 3/4 OSB).

 

BEFORE:

 

AFTER:

 

They also installed (3) Honeywell 20x25 F-100 Air Cleaners at each unit eliminating the need for filters in the rooms.  Now I can change the filters every 9 - 12 months and they are MUCH easier to get to.  The return register is not installed in the theater yet but I can't hear a thing when the unit is on. 

 

Now that the Thermo Ply is on the attic walls and the return air has been installed the room is much more comfortable. It was mid 90's today and it was noticeably cooler in there today.

 

I worked until 4:30am last night to be ready for insulation today and the guy no showed us!!!!  BLAH!!!!  Things are really heating up here in Houston and the trades are all backed up with work.  Great for the economy but it is killing my schedule!!  I will post pics of the walls pre-insulation later.

post #54 of 460
Thread Starter 

In 3 months of hard work I went from this:

 

1000

 

 

To This.....

 

There is a lot of work done to get back to insulated walls.  It is all visible change from here!!!

 

I do have a question.  Thy used faced insulation when the house was built but unfaced today.  Which is correct for Houston (22 miles from the Gulf)?

post #55 of 460
Either way. The vapor barrier from the craft paper is meaningless in your climate zone.
post #56 of 460
Thread Starter 

I finished the media racks for the back of the theater.  I wish I could weigh these things they are pretty massive (3/4" PW, GG, 3/4" PW). 

 

 

I had a gas pipe that was in the way and I also needed to isolate the boxes from the framing.  So I used resilient mounts on a 2x4 with a 3/4" top.  I think it should work fine.

 

 

Finished product:

 

 

I am well into clips and channel now.  The side walls and front of the room are done.  I am about half way done on the ceiling.  A buddy came by and helped on the ceiling, man that made things go so much faster.

post #57 of 460
Thread Starter 

I need a couple of ideas on how to handle this corner. 

 

1) Clips and Channel: When we moved the downstairs return back into the wall some wires were exposed.  There is enough slack to put the channels over them but they would be pressed up against the channels fairly tight.  IDEAS???

 

2) How do I soundproof this box.  It will be under the riser.   I have a little more than 2" above the box so I can do the same as the rest of the floor (3/8" serenity mat + 3/4" OSB + GG + 3/4 OSB).  IDEAS??

 

 

post #58 of 460
Ron-

Compressed wires will reduce the excursion of the channel and possibly introduce a conductive element, so not advised. Maybe shim the clips in that area to give you an added 1/4"?

What is the function of that box?
post #59 of 460
Wires should have gone through the studs. They must be protected form drywall screws, wall treatments, picture hanging, etc. or it's a code violation, possible fire hazard. You'll need to be careful there, or find a way to protect those wires.
post #60 of 460
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Ron-

Compressed wires will reduce the excursion of the channel and possibly introduce a conductive element, so not advised. Maybe shim the clips in that area to give you an added 1/4"?

What is the function of that box?

The box is for the downstairs HVAC return. The return grate downstairs is directly below the left side of the box (where the black writing is). Air comes up into the box and goes to the right and then up the flex duct shown back to the unit. We had to build the box to get the flex duct inside the walls. The riser top will be over the box.

To hide the wires if I build the wall out say 5-6" can I do a single column of clips or does it need 2 side by side?

Thoughts on how to handle the soundproofing?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Home Entertainment & Theater Builder › Dedicated Theater Design & Construction › The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread