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The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread - Page 4

post #91 of 469
how much for the 1" Kinetics mat?
post #92 of 469
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

No plans to use the riser as a bass trap, correct?

I had thought about it but was beyond my expertise. Anything I should do to give me the flexibility down the road?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I don't know what you are planning for wall treatments, but for my particular panel design, it worked out better to have the stage and riser at the same height. I see you are planning a slightly taller stage, so that may become something you need to address depending on your wall treatments.
Good thought. The riser is shorter because it has to match the step in the entry to the room. My room is currently sunken 12.5". I look to see if I need to shorten the stage.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Also, my riser is similar to yours, except I went with 2x12x instead of 2x10s. When constructing a step in front of the riser (splitting the overall height of the riser in half), I didn't have a lot of wiggle room on the face of the riser or the step to fit a fairly small step light. With your 2x10 riser, your front step will be even shorter, leaving even less room for a step light. Not sure if that's a concern or not.

Another good thought. I will have to lay that out tonight. As I mentioned above I don't have any flexibility in the riser height.
post #93 of 469
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

FLOOR:
If you can spare the height and the extra $$ to decouple the floor, you could skip the Serenity mat and use this 1" decoupling / isolation product from Kinetics Noise Control: http://www.kineticsnoise.com/arch/rim.html. It works extremely well and has a built-in vapor barrier. Just roll in out and start installing the two layers of T&G ply (or OSB) with GG in between. Two layers of 5/8" would be more than sufficient, but I like your thinking with the 3/4" sheet material if you can swing it.

Interesting product. The serenity map is already in my garage ready to go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

RISER:
Using roofing felt is a waste of money as it serves no purpose whatsoever.
I have seen a couple of threads that use this to eliminate squeaks. Any use in this capacity or skip it? I have no need for it as a vapor barrier as I am on the 2nd floor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Will we see finished pictures tomorrow morning after an all-nighter tonight? tongue.gif Jk, love your progress!
Pics for sure but I hope to be done with the all-nighters!!
post #94 of 469
Quote:
Originally Posted by avtexan View Post

I have seen a couple of threads that use this to eliminate squeaks. Any use in this capacity or skip it?

Squeaks typically come from movement against a nail within its hole in the wood. If you're not decoupling with Serenity mat (or other product) and concerned about squeaking, then a dab of construction adhesive will do the trick. I've not used roofing felt, mat or adhesive in the past and have not had any problems, but YMMV.
post #95 of 469
One additional thought regarding joist spacing. Installing the insulation will be a little more labor-intensive if you go with a 12" joist spacing, assuming you are installing rolled insulation intended for 16" cavities.
post #96 of 469
The easy resolution is to get the rolls designed for 24" OC joist spacing and just cut in half lengthwise.
post #97 of 469
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

The easy resolution is to get the rolls designed for 24" OC joist spacing and just cut in half lengthwise.

 

That's what I was thinking.  I know HD or Lowes would not but would a suppy house carry 12" wide?

post #98 of 469
Quote:
Originally Posted by avtexan View Post

That's what I was thinking.  I know HD or Lowes would not but would a supply house carry 12" wide?
No, well, none I have ever dealt with do. Non-standard width. 16 (15" batts) or 24 is standard.
post #99 of 469
If I remember correctly, you're in my neck of the woods. If you are interested in getting the wider insulation from a supply house, PM me and I'll give you the contact info for where I got some of my rigid insulation used for acoustics. They had good prices so I'm assuming they could hook you up with rolled batts. I think HD has some 24" wide stuff, but it might not be in the thickness you need.

If you don't feel like making the extra trip and just want to get all your material from the riser and stage aisle at HD, I don't think you'll have a problem spacing the joists at 16" o.c., especially if the joists are the same size as the perimeter and run all the way to the floor. Personally, I don't think it's worth trimming insulation for this type of application. Space 'em at 16", stuff it, and call it a day.
post #100 of 469
Thread Starter 

The sheetrock is DONE!!  I am very excited. 

 

We start the floor, riser and stage tomorrow.  Thanks to everybody for your input on these items it was VERY helpful.

 

 

post #101 of 469
If you did that yourself, that is some seriously pro-level finish quality. Congrats on getting over the last of the big construction hurdles.....it's all downhill from here!!
post #102 of 469
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

how much for the 1" Kinetics mat?

I don't recall anymore, but I used it in 2004 for my last theater. Not to hijack this thread, but here's a couple of pics of the install FWIW. The double layers of ply floating on the pads with the Green Glue between layers was rock solid and really prevented sound transmission into the adjacent areas. In fact, it was difficult to ever hear anything outside the theater, regardless of volume. I used a rate of three 28 oz. tubes per 4x8 sheet for the "ultimate". Unfortunately this was in the days before the newer formulation and the speed loader, so it was quite a lot of tubes!









The "money shot" for you, Ted!


post #103 of 469
Wow looks great avtexan!

I didn't have a chance to comment during this flurry of activity yesterday, but you have received great advice from these guys. Now the fun finishing stuff starts!
post #104 of 469
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

The "money shot" for you, Ted!

that's REALLY wrong, but it's the kind of wrong i really like...
post #105 of 469
Pictures like that make for awkward moments when your wife asks what you're laughing about biggrin.gif
post #106 of 469
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

If you did that yourself, that is some seriously pro-level finish quality. Congrats on getting over the last of the big construction hurdles.....it's all downhill from here!!

I can't take credit for the drywall. I was smart enough to know my limitations. I did all of the drywall in my joist muffler but not to the finish level of a professional. I have a TON of respect for those who have tackled the Sheetrock themselves!
post #107 of 469
Thread Starter 

I came home to find the joists for the riser done but they did 16"OC and not 12" OC as was specified.  Spaceman is correct that it will be a snap to get the insulation in there with 16" OC.  So what does everybody else say....with a top of 2 layers of 3/4" OSB is 16" OC plenty for a 9' x 13' riser?  They are coming in the am to finish up so let me know if you have any thoughts.

 

post #108 of 469
With the joists going all the way to the floor, it's as sturdy at 16" as it would have been at 12", especially with 2 layers of decking. I'd say you're all set.
post #109 of 469
+1, no worries
post #110 of 469
16" on center will be fine.....................if you are concerned, another layer of 3/4" plywood could put you at easy.

I used 16" on center for various reasons........but I also used 3 layers of 3/4 plywood for decking. Solid as a rock!
post #111 of 469
16 is fine but a bigger concern is your workers not following directions, this is something you caught, what didn't you catch?
post #112 of 469
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the thoughts guys. I feel better. What about the stage? I can't do sand on the 2nd floor so is 12" OC a good idea or overkill?
post #113 of 469
You can always have them add solid bridging to the joists, basically turning it into a grid instead of hollow channels.
post #114 of 469
Thread Starter 

We got another check mark today.  The frame of the stage is done and I am VERY happy with it. 

 

Now I need to pull some conduit and electrical to their final locations in the stage and riser.  I already have power and conduits stubbed to the back of the stage and riser.  So I have a couple of items that I need some help on:

 

1) STAGE:  I am planning on keeping the power and low voltage boxes behind the screen on the wall and not in the stage.  Where should I put the boxes and what have you guys found helpful to have in front of the screen wall?  I don't think I need power.  There will be outlets in both of the side columns that are a couple of feet away.  Is one box for the low voltage conduit running to the rack enough?  Should I put it on the front part of the stage facing the audience or on the stage floor facing up?

 

 

2) RISER:  I will have (3) floor outlets for the rear seats and I will have (3) outlets in the front portion of the riser for the front row seats.  I have a conduit for low voltage that runs to the rack.  Should it go between the 1st and 2nd row or in the face of the riser behind the 1st row of seats?

 

I also have been trying to find a recessed box to put the power supplies for the chairs in but have not had any luck.

 

 

3) STEP LIGHTS: 

 

Spaceman was correct.  My space for the step lights got small in a hurry.  I have enough room to mount a 3x5 box in the face of the riser above the first step but not in the step face.  It is only 3" tall.  I could frame a pocket for the box?  Would a light for the step only be sufficient or do I need a light for the step and the floor?

 

 

This is the light I was looking at.  Its 3" x 5".  Would I be better off with rope lights?

 

 

 

 

 

post #115 of 469
I have the same situation as you and only had room for a light above the step and not on the face of the step. Once you add carpet, the space gets even tighter. I put one light above the step in the face of the riser and it works fine. Even with no other lights on in the room you can clearly see where you are walking. In fact, I plan to dim mine slightly during movies.
post #116 of 469
Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

You can always have them add solid bridging to the joists, basically turning it into a grid instead of hollow channels.

"Solid bridging to the joist".................never heard of this. Blocking?
post #117 of 469
Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post

"Solid bridging to the joist".................never heard of this. Blocking?

http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/floor-joist%20bridging.htm#.Uf_pdG0ixRs
post #118 of 469

Thanks,

Never heard of that term before........from your illustration, that's what I was referring to as blocking. Learned something new..... biggrin.gif
post #119 of 469
Thread Starter 

I worked most of Sunday and tonight and got the low voltage conduit and the romex for the seat plugs in the riser.  I also added some bracket on each side of the joists to firm them up a bit. 

 

I decided not to run anything in the stage.  I will make a hidden panel in the false wall for some low voltage (USB for xbox etc)

 

 

I had a little more room in the step that I thought.  I thought it would be tough but I pulled the face off and moved the center support over a bit.  It made it much easier to cut the box with the face pulled off.

 

I will try and get insulation done by the weekend and then get the tops on the stage and riser.  I am starting to think about the soffits and trim.  I also need to make some final decisions on equipment.  So be on the lookout because I am going to need some help here.

post #120 of 469
Thread Starter 

OK gang I would not let myself think (to much) about product until I was sheetrocked and had the stage and riser done.  So now its time to talk some product!  Please let me know what you think about my selections below.  

 

The big change will have to be the PJ.  The LS-10i has been discontinued, Bummer!  Runco has reduced the price of the LS-12d by 3K so that could be an option.  The DP Highlite Cine 260 is very close to the LS-10i.  Also some of the newer DLP/LED have gotten bright enough to work (Sim2 M150 or DP 1000 LED).  These LED's  intrigue me....3 chip color, single chip convergence, DLP pop, no RBE, no bulbs, less loss of brightness & instant on.  What's the downside (besides cost)?

 

My setup will be a throw of 165" to a 120" wide 2.37 AT screen (Approx .8 gain)

 

EQUIPMENT
PJ: Need a new selection!
A-Lens: Cineslide with ISCO III XL (ALREADY HAVE)
AT Screen: Screen Excellence Elighter 4K (120 wide 2:37)

Video Processor: Lumagen Radiance Mini-3D
Pre/Pro: Marantz AV8801
Amps: B&K Ref 7270 (200x7) & B&K Ref 2220 (200x2) (ALREADY HAVE)
LCR Speakers: (3) Triad InWall Gold/6 LCR
Wide Speakers: (2) Triad InCeiling Gold/8 Omni SE (On their side)
Side Speakers: (2) Triad InWall Gold/4 Surround
Rear Speakers: (2) Triad InCeiling Gold/8 Omni SE
Subs: (2) Paradigm Sub 15
Blue Ray: Oppo BDP-103
Sat: DirecTv (ALREADY HAVE)
Gaming: Xbox 360 (ALREADY HAVE)
DAC: Cambridge Audio DAC Magic Plus
Cables: AudioQuest Cinnamon HDMI, AudioQuest Golden Gate RCA’s, Blue Jeans Cable XLR’s for subs, Blue Jeans Cable 12/2 Speaker cable (ALREADY HAVE)
Power: Furman F1500-UPS & Furman Elite-15 PFi
Racks: (2) Middle Atlantic Slim 5 (ALREADY HAVE 1)


Edited by avtexan - 8/10/13 at 1:47pm
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