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Minisplit and Deadvent design - Page 2

post #31 of 43
Thread Starter 
Well I want to deadvent the return so it is not attatched to the furnace. Can I get away with this with no return on the utility side of the basement? Do you know anything about those pics I posted?
post #32 of 43
No idea about the pics. What about this. I don't remember your layout, so this may be a bad idea, but you could just plan to leave the HVAC fan running whenever you're in the theater. That will circulate air from the house into the theater. Leave the door open to the theater when you're not in there to allow the air in the basement to be circulated through the return in the theater.
post #33 of 43
You can add a crossover to the adjacent space, but I don't think it would need to be powered.
post #34 of 43
Thread Starter 
When you say crossover do you mean a non powered deadvent? I actually thought of that too, only problem is if it gets too warm or cold in there, I'd have to run up stairs to mess with the thermostat, plus operating costs of running my furnace straight through a movie might not be economical?
post #35 of 43
Yes, a non-powered dead vent.

The ideal situation is to add that room to its own zone. If you are not going to do that, then you have to make the best of what you have. If you turn on the HVAC fan (not cooling, just the fan) then It will circulate the cool air from the entire house (ideally) into your room. This SHOULD keep the room the same temp as the rest of the house. There are lots of reasons it might not, but you won't know until you try it.

Before I get flamed, I understand there are reasons not to do this (humidity being one), but if we're not zoning the room, and trying to do this as cheap as possible, this seems like a decent approach to me.
post #36 of 43
Thread Starter 
I was going to buy a dehumidifier anyways for the whole basement. Hmm do you know the process of zoning such a small room, what it entails. I also found a very reasonable price on a minisplit on ebay brand new. Kind of threw that option out of the window since I couldn't find one to fit my modest budget but now....

1. what is the price of a good quiet deadvent fan?

2. Could I get away with having no true return in the basement, either room?
post #37 of 43
Panasonic fans have already been mentioned in this thread. Google is your friend.

Not sure why you are asking 2)? You already have a return.
post #38 of 43
Thread Starter 
Right but i'm separating that from the furnace trunk and building a deadvent for sound. Could I just put a vent in the main trunk where that return entered and call it good for a return for the furnace in the absement?
post #39 of 43
Thread Starter 
Answered my own question and it is yes which is a good thing,. So I have the furnace return figured out. Now to figure out the best way to cycle and cool the air within my wittle budget.

When using the theater room. Do you have the deadvent return AND supply fans on slow the whole time or on intervals?

Also what would be recommended. For the supply near the ceiling or floor? And same for the return. Thanks.
Edited by mijotter - 3/16/13 at 4:47pm
post #40 of 43
This should not be a DIY project. Not to be mean mijotter, but if you can't afford a pro to enhance the system, can you really afford to pay one to fix it if you break it?

I also missed the part about the thermostat being upstairs. That would mean that the "basement furnace" is actually the house furnace, which happens to be located in the basement, correct? If so, that's the furnace you and your family depend on for comfort. No way would I risk that with a first time DIY project.

The intent of my post was to share some of the science behind it. A passive dead vent is simple enough. You're basically trying to allow the same air flow through the vent as you had with an open door. But when it comes to cutting into trunks, running new ducts, and/or mini-split install... you should get a pro for that.
post #41 of 43
Normally I'm all for DIY. Ill spend the time to learn something new and try it myself. I've built engines, transmissions, computers, and most parts of a house at some point or another. But based on the way this thread keeps going in circles, I might have to agree with you in this case, rabident.
post #42 of 43
Yeah, I know. I was just worried for the guy. It didn't look like it was going to end well.
post #43 of 43
Thread Starter 
What is there to risk. I'm actually not doing anything to the furnace. Just moving the return that's in the basement to the other room. My questions are how best to get controllable temperature in there with proper ventilation. I've read through both of your forums quite a bit to help me with this, and both of you asked a lot of questions too. I learned you can never ask too many questions, sorry if I seem to be "going in circles" but I just want to make sure I understand everything 100% before I get in to it which is a good thing. Which also means based on the wealth of knowledge that I have gathered, I can make a common sense decision on whether to do it or have someone else do it. Not everyone on this forum has thousands upon thousands of dollars. I actually do projects on this theater as I can afford them each week. If I cannot afford raw materials one week because of bills and whatnot then raw mats don't get bought and I work on something cheaper or caulking etc. This allows me to get quality information from you guys who have been there, done that which i appreciate immensely.

Here's how I look at it. I'm going to need a supply in that room no matter what, which means a supply vent, which means a hole in the wall as I don't have the ceiling space for a soffit. So based on that, I'm going to actually test what works and what doesn't instead of just guessing and hoping. Going to start with the supply that's in there now. Wait until the room is 100% finished and have people over to watch a movie or 2 and see how it handles it. If it handles it well then I leave it and soundproof the line accordingly. If it has a hard time keeping up, then I remove the current supply and look in to a mini split system in the adjacent room with a dead vent supply to the theater room, that way I can control the temperature from the seat of my couch with the remote. I plan to line the studs accordingly, just in case I'll be putting a deadvent for a supply in the future. The return will be a deadvent regardless.

Either way the furnace will be untouched.

Also, I did a temperature test in the basement today. I stood in the furthest corner of the theater room with both supplies open to said room. It rose the temperature 6 degrees in the 4 minutes it was on. I closed one supply and the same thing from the same spots. It rose the temperature nearly 6 degrees(5.6) and pretty much matched the same temp with both supplies open, again on for 4 minutes. So I think I can get away with only 1 supply in this room as it is a small room(11.5' x 17.5').

I say all this based on your guys' help so thank you, and know that this HT is not going to be some hack job, I think i'm annoying enough with my barrage of questions every day as proof of that lol.
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