Originally Posted by MKtheater
Maybe setting up the clone's gains and vpl settings wrong are why they have some problems? I have no idea on what to set. I just set max gain and set the VPL to 120 V. I did this for both the 10Q and 14K. I think they were both set to hard as well.
There are 2 reasons I no longer post in the clones thread; a) there's no single source for purchases and b) the settings problem is indeed the #1 reason there are so many problems.
The clone amps have unprecedented flexibility. This is both a good thing and a bad thing. I've measured voltage out of every piece in my signal chain and 9-10V when playing WOTW or equal is not uncommon at reference level.
When you're feeding that hot a signal to an amp, most amps have a global input sensitivity and a crude version of voltage peak limiting, so they clip because the gain is nowhere near set up for that scenario. When you up the ante power-wise to the clone level and/or run stupid low impedances and include relatively hot single digit content, all sorts of bad things happen.
It's like getting a 60s muscle car to learn how to drive with and starting the engine, closing your eyes and flooring it.
Sorry, I had no idea which amp, what loads or what configuration of the channels you're using.
The FP10Q rolls off at 7 Hz (hasn't been verified in the clones to my knowledge, so it's assumed) and the setting with the 8V/20dBu Mini would be the same, except to set the VPL one notch lower.
Again, this recommendation assumes the clone you use has circuitry that is accurately reflected in the dip switch demarcations. Always proceed with caution until you find the limits of your system using the heavy hitters.
I thought I had done that as thoroughly as a human could over the past 10 years, but along came Total recall with a single scene that caused my drivers to soft bottom HARD when I was running the SW out a few dB hot and 0dBRL:
If the Voltage Peak Limit lights flash, that tells you you've exceeded the voltage you set the limit for. OTOH, if the Current Peak Limit light flashes, that means you're clipping. If you're clipping, immediately readjust your system from the AVR to the drivers. If the VPL lights flash occasionally, it's OK. If they flash a lot, immediately readjust your settings from the AVR to the drivers. After readjustment, use the offending soundtrack and ease into it to find maximum (driver excursion or amp limits or signal limits.
On my new SEQSS signal shaper we've designed a circuit that is adjustable (not user-adjustable) and changes the color of the ON LED when input voltage exceeds the trigger point we set. Again, it will tell the user when these very hot scenes reach 'X'V input, which is OK occasionally but not OK constantly. There's also a trim pot to limit the output voltage to keep the signal within the amps gain/VPL settings window.
The whole thing with mega system DIY subwoofers is optimal performance. That means proper AC feed, signal chain bandwidth, signal chain voltage, power matched to EQ boost being factored into the equation, indicator lights to alert you of any need for readjustments and safe overall operation, etc. Otherwise, you're pi$$ing in the wind with high power amps and dozens of drivers.