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16 x 18's in a 1500ft^3 Space - Popalock's Sub Build - Page 18

post #511 of 943
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post


Issue 2: IR Learning feature. The miniDSP manual says to point your remote at the mini and click on the box that you want it to learn. My Harmony 900 says to point your old remote at the Harmony remote for it to learn the command... So it's one of those "who's on first" scenarios... Might be an easy fix, but I'm going to have to do some digging for sure.

So I saw it referenced on the miniDSP forum to just use an old remote (like a sony dvd player that is *not* in the room). Program the presets to the numbers 1-2-3-4 and then set up the harmony using those commands for whatever buttons you like. They ship with generic/standard NEC codes apparently.
post #512 of 943
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Just having a tough time. It's hard for me to even explain.

Just having issues with getting everything to play nicely. Also, going to have to invest more time into learning how to get my Harmony to learn the IR commands... I knew it wasn't going to be plug-n-play "per se," but my impatience is getting the best of me.

I went ahead and hooked up the connections via analog and was able to get both amps to play utilizing the same signal. As I mentioned before, need to address my electrical situation, so I'm just going to run 8 for now. Here is a little stress reliever video I took after wasting almost my entire day...

IRENE till I die...lol


When I took that video it kind reminded me of seeing luke's old videos with is quad LMS-U's... Good stuff!

Pop: beef that thing up. When one doesn't work, you know what to do... keep making it beefier until it works! biggrin.gif




I was thinking of making my doors thicker as well; still on the fence about it... the whole aesthetics vs function thing blaa.


You seriously need to get that system out of your house before you age it by 20 years!

This guy had 16 subs too...

but he doesn't anymore. See... TOLD YA SO! tongue.gif
post #513 of 943
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

Pop: beef that thing up. When one doesn't work, you know what to do... keep making it beefier until it works! biggrin.gif

I was thinking of making my doors thicker as well; still on the fence about it... the whole aesthetics vs function thing blaa.

You seriously need to get that system out of your house before you age it by 20 years!

This guy had 16 subs too...but he doesn't anymore.

lol... Green Glue FTW!

My next space I will be sure to go all out like you have in your build. I took that video just becuase I thought it would be funny. Those doors aren't close enough for me to really hear them when I have the theater pumping. Even if they were, I would just open the doors. Problem solved!

biggrin.gif

Haha, that guy didn't have 16 subs... He had one sub and horrible Contractor that build his home on a sand foundation...lol
post #514 of 943
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

excellent presets. I dig it biggrin.gifRight now I think i got my system to ULFtard like yours, get the pic of the HVAC vent that I knocked loose?

beast,

Did you already make those changes we were discussing? How is it sounding these days?

If dislodging HVAC vents are any indication, it sounds like you might be getting a bit more low end output...

biggrin.gif

Didn't have to make any EQ changes, just boosted the subs about 15dB and called it a day...Haha. I am still running flat for movies and tickling the VPL on some of the big hitters. Keep in mind I do already have a 12dB L/T boost down low, so I do in fact still have a credible amount of low end. It is certainly fun to run through some of the demo's though right now biggrin.gif and music is just retarded with the subs that hot :awesome:
post #515 of 943
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Didn't have to make any EQ changes, just boosted the subs about 15dB and called it a day...Haha. I am still running flat for movies and tickling the VPL on some of the big hitters. Keep in mind I do already have a 12dB L/T boost down low, so I do in fact still have a credible amount of low end. It is certainly fun to run through some of the demo's though right now biggrin.gif and music is just retarded with the subs that hot :awesome:

Nicccce...

So, the wife and I had a little jam out session last night. We listened to all the music she wanted to listen too. Running the subs hot myself, I found that I pretty much like all music...

tongue.gif

I was introducing her to basslines she never knew existed.

cool.gif
post #516 of 943
Popalock, did you have to invert the phase on the back subs?
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post #517 of 943
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Popalock, did you have to invert the phase on the back subs?

I think I might need to do that... as soon as I can figure out my issue with the miniDSP. Right now I am running all subs as a single sub...

FYI. Here is the house curve I was running on the Irene scene video with my doors going crazy...

post #518 of 943
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

I think I might need to do that... as soon as I can figure out my issue with the miniDSP. Right now I am running all subs as a single sub...

FYI. Here is the house curve I was running on the Irene scene video with my doors going crazy...


Using one input is fine and what I am going to do. You just have to place all of the back subs grouped together and invert those outputs. If you are grouping four drivers on an amp, then you would use two outputs and try inverting those two outputs. Don't know if inverting is needed, measuring is the only way to know. I have a MiniDSP 10x10HD ordered. I have already played with the software. It is so simple to use. Just hope I do not have any problems (hum, low input signal or clipping) when I connect it up. I have the software configured, just need to connect up, measure and then start applying PEQ and measuring more.
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post #519 of 943
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Using one input is fine and what I am going to do. You just have to place all of the back subs grouped together and invert those outputs. If you are grouping four drivers on an amp, then you would use two outputs and try inverting those two outputs. Don't know if inverting is needed, measuring is the only way to know. I have a MiniDSP 10x10HD ordered. I have already played with the software. It is so simple to use. Just hope I do not have any problems (hum, low input signal or clipping) when I connect it up. I have the software configured, just need to connect up, measure and then start applying PEQ and measuring more.

Ah yes, the ol polarity switch. Gotcha, thanks for the suggestion. A quick fix for sure. I'll try to give that a go tonight and see how it alters the graph I posted above. It would be SICK if I could get more gain on top of what I already have. I'm not getting my hopes up though.

One thing I liked about the SMS-1 was that it gave you the ability to adjust the phase in 15 degree increments. I didn't get a chance to save my graphs, but I did take a few minutes a couple weeks back to measure output when I had just fried up my front 8. I adjusted the phase in 30 degree increments and noticed some mode corrections when I had set the phase to 180 degrees...

I'll give the polarity switch a try tonight, but I'm going to try to avoid "fine tuning" everything until I can figure out my input/output situation on the mini.

I bought the 10x10HD for the IR capability (which I LOVE by the way - thanks NathanJ) and the input/output flexibility. I'd really like to maximize utilization of both, ya know?
post #520 of 943
Thread Starter 
Gents,

Check this out. In addition to what I paid for the miniDSP 10x10HD and the FP14000 Clone, I got slapped with these customs fees.





Am I the only one oblivious to these fees? I have never seen this mentioned in either of the dedicated threads, so this really caught me off guard. It's not a huge deal, but pretty annoying regardless.

It is a state by state thing or what?

I thought I would post it up here just in case any of you don't frequent the dedicated mini and Clone threads. I'll go ahead and post it up there to see if anyone else has been subject to these fees as well...
post #521 of 943
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Ah yes, the ol polarity switch. Gotcha, thanks for the suggestion. A quick fix for sure. I'll try to give that a go tonight and see how it alters the graph I posted above. It would be SICK if I could get more gain on top of what I already have. I'm not getting my hopes up though.

One thing I liked about the SMS-1 was that it gave you the ability to adjust the phase in 15 degree increments. I didn't get a chance to save my graphs, but I did take a few minutes a couple weeks back to measure output when I had just fried up my front 8. I adjusted the phase in 30 degree increments and noticed some mode corrections when I had set the phase to 180 degrees...

I'll give the polarity switch a try tonight, but I'm going to try to avoid "fine tuning" everything until I can figure out my input/output situation on the mini.

I bought the 10x10HD for the IR capability (which I LOVE by the way - thanks NathanJ) and the input/output flexibility. I'd really like to maximize utilization of both, ya know?

The minidsp allows much greater control of phase than the sms-1 by using the distance settings. I know you have a different mini than me, but with mine it is the last tab on the right, the output tabs, have the controls to invert the phase as well as adjust distance for each output independently so for me I have 4 settings. One output setting for my 4 subs stacked in the front corners, one for the 4 subs under the screen, one for the MBM-12k, and one output that is not being used.

So, what i do is while running the omnimic test tone I change the distance settings while watching the changes on the omnimic graph in real time. The minidsp has a tab that allows you to click and hold your mouse on it and it will increase or decrease the distance while you watch the effect it is having on the omnimic graph.

I've played with it a few times, and it gets the bass dialed in much better than trying to just invert or not invert the signal.
post #522 of 943
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Gents,

Check this out. In addition to what I paid for the miniDSP 10x10HD and the FP14000 Clone, I got slapped with these customs fees.





Am I the only one oblivious to these fees? I have never seen this mentioned in either of the dedicated threads, so this really caught me off guard. It's not a huge deal, but pretty annoying regardless.

It is a state by state thing or what?

I thought I would post it up here just in case any of you don't frequent the dedicated mini and Clone threads. I'll go ahead and post it up there to see if anyone else has been subject to these fees as well...

i only have minor experience with import/export, but i think since you ordered directly from someone in China, you're responsible for the duties, taxes, etc. if you ordered it from a company with stateside office, they would most likely have paid it, but upcharged you in other ways.
post #523 of 943
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post

The minidsp allows much greater control of phase than the sms-1 by using the distance settings. I know you have a different mini than me, but with mine it is the last tab on the right, the output tabs, have the controls to invert the phase as well as adjust distance for each output independently so for me I have 4 settings. One output setting for my 4 subs stacked in the front corners, one for the 4 subs under the screen, one for the MBM-12k, and one output that is not being used.

So, what i do is while running the omnimic test tone I change the distance settings while watching the changes on the omnimic graph in real time. The minidsp has a tab that allows you to click and hold your mouse on it and it will increase or decrease the distance while you watch the effect it is having on the omnimic graph.

I've played with it a few times, and it gets the bass dialed in much better than trying to just invert or not invert the signal.

For sure man. Once I can get output 2 to work on my mini, I'll be sure to do just that.

What's your schedule like today man? I want to give you a call to talk shop for a few mins.

Let me know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RPGMasta View Post

i only have minor experience with import/export, but i think since you ordered directly from someone in China, you're responsible for the duties, taxes, etc. if you ordered it from a company with stateside office, they would most likely have paid it, but upcharged you in other ways.

Make sense... Just threw me off that I had never seen anyone else mention customs fees. I'm sure it's one of those "common sense" things I just overlooked. It is what it is... No big deal I guess.
post #524 of 943
I'll call you on my drive home, I can't get much time until then. That will be around 5:00 central time give or take a bit - does that work?
post #525 of 943
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post

I'll call you on my drive home, I can't get much time until then. That will be around 5:00 central time give or take a bit - does that work?

Yeah, that's cool.
post #526 of 943
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Using one input is fine and what I am going to do. You just have to place all of the back subs grouped together and invert those outputs. If you are grouping four drivers on an amp, then you would use two outputs and try inverting those two outputs. Don't know if inverting is needed, measuring is the only way to know. I have a MiniDSP 10x10HD ordered. I have already played with the software. It is so simple to use. Just hope I do not have any problems (hum, low input signal or clipping) when I connect it up. I have the software configured, just need to connect up, measure and then start applying PEQ and measuring more.

Mike,

I made some time today to invert my rear subs like you suggested above. Here are my graphs below:

Front 8 active only:


All subs running together in phase:


All subs running with rear stage phase inverted:


Combined Graphs:
post #527 of 943
Flip them ShITZ back then son!!!! I can't imagine getting a smoother graph then what you are working with right now. Looks awesome bro!
post #528 of 943
Yeah bro! What B said!
post #529 of 943
Wow that's awesome!!
post #530 of 943
Definitely! Impressive FR, Austin. smile.gif
post #531 of 943
How much smoothing is that?
post #532 of 943
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Flip them ShITZ back then son!!!! I can't imagine getting a smoother graph then what you are working with right now. Looks awesome bro!

Done. Flipped it back quick like.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skeeter99 View Post

Wow that's awesome!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

Definitely! Impressive FR, Austin. smile.gif

Thanks gents.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Decadent_Spectre View Post

How much smoothing is that?

No smoothing...

I actually ran the test initially and I believe OM defaults to 1/6 smoothing. Noticed the graphs looked odd (way too smooth), so I went back and disabled smoothing completely and ran the tests again...
post #533 of 943
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Mike,

I made some time today to invert my rear subs like you suggested above. Here are my graphs below:

Front 8 active only:


All subs running together in phase:


All subs running with rear stage phase inverted:


Combined Graphs:

Yep. definitely flip them back. smile.gif
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post #534 of 943
P-lock - Are your mains on during the sweeps? If so, where are you crossing them? I'm going to guess at 80?
post #535 of 943
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

P-lock - Are your mains on during the sweeps? If so, where are you crossing them? I'm going to guess at 80?

Mains were on.

Yessir, for these measurements they were crossed at 80hz.

Thinking I should try to invert all of my subs to see what response I would get?
post #536 of 943
Probably would only screw with your mains integration, but wouldn't hurt to try smile.gif You are still looking pretty good in the XO region so perhaps just for the sake of trying things!

You got a full freq response graph up to 20khz?
post #537 of 943
Do a sweep with mains full range with no subs on and compare that to the subs with mains full range. You can experiment with different crossover points as well (40-60-80-100) and see what that does to your response. That should give you a good idea of what kind of integration you've got around the crossover point as well as above and below. I tweaked my phase/distance quite a bit and got it much better when doing that. I'm running the Yorks crossed at 100 right now as a bit of an experiment and it sounds pretty damn good.
post #538 of 943
Are you using Audyssey? If so, there's a known issue with the crossover points. You might have to adjust the sub distance a bit to get the dip at the xover point to come up.
post #539 of 943
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Do a sweep with mains full range with no subs on and compare that to the subs with mains full range. You can experiment with different crossover points as well (40-60-80-100) and see what that does to your response. That should give you a good idea of what kind of integration you've got around the crossover point as well as above and below. I tweaked my phase/distance quite a bit and got it much better when doing that. I'm running the Yorks crossed at 100 right now as a bit of an experiment and it sounds pretty damn good.

Same here with the SEOS. First time I have kept em at 100hz for a while and they just rock this way, it is crazy! What are you hearing vs. lower XO points btw? did you still after audyssey run full range fronts, engage LFE+Main and then change the distance settings and switch back to Small?
post #540 of 943
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Same here with the SEOS. First time I have kept em at 100hz for a while and they just rock this way, it is crazy! What are you hearing vs. lower XO points btw? did you still after audyssey run full range fronts, engage LFE+Main and then change the distance settings and switch back to Small?

With the higher crossover point the bass is just tighter and better sounding overall. Our sub setups do so well <150hz it's almost harmful to stand in their way. After measuring, the response always looked much better with the higher xovers no matter how much phase/distance tweaking I did. And yes, tweaked settings after running Audyssey. I reran Audyssey but didn't make much of a difference anyway.
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