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Official 2013 LG xxLA7400 Owner's Thread. - Page 36

post #1051 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by James Parsons View Post

I'd love to see how plasmas compare with this TV as far as motion blur is concerned. Motion blur bothers me when watching this TV, but I don't understand how a 240 Hz TV can have more motion blur than the 24-30 fps source. When I see motion blur while watching this TV, I don't know if the cause is the TV or the original source.

Consumer Reports says the LA7400 has "very good" high-def picture quality, viewing angle, and motion-blur reduction, while competing plasmas generally rate as "excellent" on all three qualities.

LED TVs generally have brighter whites than plasmas, but plasmas have darker blacks. This TV clearly has dark-greyish "blacks".

While I think this TV's motion-blur reduction and black levels have room for improvement, I think the viewing angle is fantastic.

Yea motion blur on this TV can very bad. Especially with scenes where there are a lot of bright colors crossing the screen very close together at relatively fast speeds. One good example of this recently, was the olympic cross country skiing. When the skiers got close to the camera where the whole picture was saturated with the color of there suits racing by, the TV REALLy struggled causing a lot of pixelation and blur. That being said, TV source is 60Hz by default, and blu-ray and other like sources fare better from a motion blur stand point.

Flames and other bright colors such as flashing lights on a dark black background also give this TV tons of trouble, even in blu-ray.
post #1052 of 1201
Oh and blimp shots of golf balls flying across the green fairways are a NIGHTMARE! 3 balls show up.
post #1053 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acousticality View Post

That being said, TV source is 60Hz by default, and blu-ray and other like sources fare better from a motion blur stand point.

Traditional CRT TVs had a screen refresh rate of 60 Hz. So do low-end LCD/LED TVs. TV source, however, is filmed at only 30 fps in the U.S. and 25 fps in Europe. Movies are filmed at 24 fps.

I don't understand how my new 240 Hz LED TV can have more motion blur than my old 60 Hz CRT TV. I still have my CRT TV lying around. Maybe I need to hook up my old DVD player to it and watch some of the same action scenes to verify head-to-head that the motion blur isn't in the source.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acousticality View Post

Flames and other bright colors such as flashing lights on a dark black background also give this TV tons of trouble, even in blu-ray.

I haven't had trouble with flames with a dark background. I recently watched an episode of Hawaii Five-0 in which a Hawaiian dancer was spinning a pole that had flames on each end. The scene was shot at night. It looked awesome. Hawaii Five-0 is a great show for displaying the beauty of this TV's picture, with lots of aerial shots of the islands and surrounding ocean. But the show also has action scenes that make this TV's motion blur quite noticeable. I saw lots of motion blur watching Fast Five on Blu-ray, too. Specifically the carjacking from the train scene.

The underwhelming dark scenes that really stood out to me were on Sleepy Hollow. They had a greenish gray look to them. Maybe it was the source, not the TV. I don't know if I watched it before or after color calibration. I didn't stick with the show.
post #1054 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by James Parsons View Post

Traditional CRT TVs had a screen refresh rate of 60 Hz. So do low-end LCD/LED TVs. TV source, however, is filmed at only 30 fps in the U.S. and 25 fps in Europe. Movies are filmed at 24 fps.

I don't understand how my new 240 Hz LED TV can have more motion blur than my old 60 Hz CRT TV. I still have my CRT TV lying around. Maybe I need to hook up my old DVD player to it and watch some of the same action scenes to verify head-to-head that the motion blur isn't in the source.

The Hz rating only has somewhat to do with motion blur found on LCDs. They are inherently flawed with motion because they are constantly illuminated and use sample-and-hold. Heres a detailed explanation if you're interested, http://www.soundandvision.com/gearworks/707gear/
post #1055 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by tshrimp View Post

Not sure if this helps, but for me setting De-Judder: to 1-3, De-Blur: 7-10. and I have no issues with motion blur at all. Also most of my settings are set to "off" with a few exceptions. Worth trying as this seems to be a strong point in my unit. I also have had very good luck with dark area detail. Might not be the blackest of blacks, but a black coat in a dark scene I can usually see the details of the coat.

I originally tried LG's built-in Smooth, Clear, and Clear Plus settings, as I assume we all have. The Clear and Clear Plus settings had too much Soap Opera Effect for my taste. I also noticed that De-Judder settings of 3 or higher have artifacting problems during some panning shots. There's a big difference between a dejudder setting of 2 and a dejudder setting of 3, both in terms of artifacting and SOE. Some software algorithm obviously gets enabled at 3 or higher. Also, compared to a deblur setting of 7, a setting of 10 seemed to do "too much" smoothing even on still images. It looked sort of like a noise reduction or anti-aliasing feature in which adjacent pixels were blended together. So, for a while I was using De-Judder: 2; De-Blur: 7.

But, motion blur continued to bother me. More recently I noticed that if the De-Blur setting is high enough it seems to suppress the De-Judder artifacting problems a bit. So, I have bumped my TruMotion settings up to De-Judder: 3; De-Blur: 10. I also tried higher dejudder settings like 4 or 5, but I didn't like them as much.

Even high De-Judder settings can still result in motion blur. Maybe it's a problem with the 24 fps source. If two adjacent frames have substantially different images, there's really not much a dejudder algorithm can do about it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tshrimp View Post

PS: I am not sure how Consumer Reports tests their TVs, but see a huge discrepancy between some of the TVs they rate and what many of the professionals online rate things. As you probably saw the LA7400 series was at the top of the list, and the PQ was half red dot, while some others were full red dot. However, looking at reviews of same tv online much of the time showed the LG PQ better than those CR rated higher in PQ. I think CR is a good baseline, but would would look at some of the guys who are actually measuring color accuracy, etc. But will say most give a thumbs up to the lack of blur. Ex. I had a receiver that CR rated at the top. Then I read the gave 50% of the score to ease of remote use. 50%...really CR. I put Sound Quality first personally as I can get use to any remote (and also use a Harmony).

I don't rely only on CR. I use a mix of Amazon reviews, CNET and other commercial reviews, and CR non-commercial reviews. Each has it's own bias. I am bewildered by CR's Blu-ray player recommendations. CR hasn't rated standalone receivers and speakers in about a decade. They limit their home audio reviews to home theater systems and sound bars.
post #1056 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by James Parsons View Post

I figured out how to cast YouTube videos from any web browser to the TV. This is a YouTube-only technique. So far I have gotten it to work with both Firefox and Chrome on Windows, and Safari and Chrome on iOS. No Google Cast extension is needed.

Launch the TV's YouTube app. Go to "Sign In & Settings" -> "Pair Device". Then in your favorite web browser, go to youtube.com/pair and enter the code displayed on the TV. By default your TV will be named "YouTube TV". You can rename it in the YouTube.com settings.

When you want to cast a video, you select the TV from the "Play on" icon displayed in the photo Vasim Pathan posted above.

You can also pair the YouTube app on your phone or tablet with the TV.

This technique also works with smart Blu-ray players, in which case the Blu-ray player would play the role of the TV.

It is also worth signing in to your YouTube account on the TV. Under "Sign In & Settings", choose to sign in. A code will be displayed. Then go to youtube.com/activate in any web browser and enter the code.

Personally, I don't use YouTube very often so it's unlikely I'll get much use out of this, but it's worth knowing.


Hello James, May I drag this back up please - I am concerned about the OS or the internet Browser of my new TV. I use the web site Project Free TV a lot and have had "issues" on my Pc from infected links of this site. It would be a real "Drama" to have to drag my Tv to my IT Pal to have him sweep out the infections and Trojans. So I am looking for advice or suggestion regarding if the TV could be "hijacked" browsing the W.W.W. ???

 

Kind Regards

Sting

post #1057 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by James Parsons View Post

I don't rely only on CR. I use a mix of Amazon reviews, CNET and other commercial reviews, and CR non-commercial reviews. Each has it's own bias. I am bewildered by CR's Blu-ray player recommendations. CR hasn't rated standalone receivers and speakers in about a decade. They limit their home audio reviews to home theater systems and sound bars.

Gave away my age a little here. It was a Technics Dolby Pro-logic receiver (great for the time, and still running). And it would be great if they would bring back the receiver reviews.
post #1058 of 1201

Any issues with the new firmware?

post #1059 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sting5920 View Post


Hello James, May I drag this back up please - I am concerned about the OS or the internet Browser of my new TV. I use the web site Project Free TV a lot and have had "issues" on my Pc from infected links of this site. It would be a real "Drama" to have to drag my Tv to my IT Pal to have him sweep out the infections and Trojans. So I am looking for advice or suggestion regarding if the TV could be "hijacked" browsing the W.W.W. ???

Kind Regards
Sting

Most malware is OS-dependent. Malware authors prefer to write malware for the most popular operating systems because they can hit more targets that way and the malware will spread faster. For the past two decades that has meant writing malware for Windows, while largely ignoring Mac OS and Linux. With the rise of mobile devices, Android and iOS are now attractive targets, but Apple has third-party software locked down pretty tight so most mobile device malware is written for Android only.

Malware written specifically for Windows or Android won't run on this TV, because it runs LG's own proprietary operating system. Almost all smart TVs and Blu-ray players will be safe from OS-dependent malware. A possible exception is LG TVs running Google TV (such as the GA7900), because Google TV is based on Android.

A different type of malware is web-based malware written with Flash, Java, or JavaScript. JavaScript malware is mostly about tricking users. (e.g. The attacker writes JavaScript in a comment field on Website A. When the website posts the comment, it actually creates a running script. When users then log into Website A, the script reads their usernames and passwords and sends them to Website B, owned by the attacker. The attacker now knows people's usernames and passwords.)

JavaScript can't get access to the user's hard drive, but Flash and Java can. So, Flash and Java are often used to install OS-dependent malware on the victim's computer. Although installing OS-dependent malware is a common attack using Flash or Java, it's not safe to assume it's the only type of attack.

The LA7400 will be largely safe from OS-dependent malware, but its web browser will be vulnerable to web-based malware written in JavaScript or Flash. You can protect yourself a bit by disabling Flash in the browser, but then you won't be able to play most web-based videos.

This TV's smart apps like YouTube, Netflix, and Hulu Plus can be assumed to be safe. Surfing the Web on this TV will be safer than with a Windows PC, but you can't assume it will be perfectly safe. If you know a site tends to have malware, the safest thing is to stay away.
post #1060 of 1201

Thank-you for [ everyone] this thread! After anguishing for a week I plugged my new TV in last night on a temporary outdoor antenna and WOW did I find channels I never knew existed.

 

Then I attempted to watch an episode of The Black list on free Hulu.... I could only get the first few seconds to load - and the rest was black screen. The remote would take me back to the menu - but that app would not play. For a check I brought out my old HP mini laptop, and the show loaded fine off that weak Atom processor.

 

Yes - My DSL is slow ---2 Mb up - far far less down

 

Is this the software update glitch from above that folks were chatting about?

Update: live chat with LG instructed me ---To Initialize your TV please go to Home>setup or settings>option and initial settings. After that I want you to choose Home Mode and follow the instructions

 

Update tomorrow :)

post #1061 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sting5920 View Post

Then I attempted to watch an episode of The Black list on free Hulu.... I could only get the first few seconds to load - and the rest was black screen. The remote would take me back to the menu - but that app would not play. For a check I brought out my old HP mini laptop, and the show loaded fine off that weak Atom processor.

Does your laptop have an HDMI out jack? If so, you can plug your laptop into the TV and watch Hulu that way. I initially had trouble getting CBS.com video to work in the TV's web browser, but after trying several times it eventually worked itself out so I could watch the Super Bowl via the TV's browser.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sting5920 View Post

Yes - My DSL is slow ---2 Mb up - far far less down

I think you've got that backward. The download speed is usually much faster than the upload speed. My DSL is even slower: 1.3 Mbps down and 0.3 Mbps up. I'm looking into upgrading to cable broadband or Verizon FiOS. I find that the TV's Hulu Plus app can't handle my slow bandwidth, but my Roku's Hulu Plus app can.
post #1062 of 1201

opps - yes I posted that speed incorrectly -- ME BAD!!

 

Thank-you James!

 

I did call LG support last night and they told me that because there is an "app" on this TV for Hulu Plus - surfing or trying to load stream from the Free Hulu web site is a conflict. Content from the Free Hulu web site will always be blocked...  I suppose that [block] is buried in the programming to make you subscribe to Hulu Plus and become another profit center for LG.

 

My DSL provider extolls the benefit that they provide a service called TumTiki - and it had not occurred to me it was a simple interface to Hulu free...

 

I am not annoyed - I had planned to subscribe to Hulu soon anyway - but it is nice to now have a reason for the black screen.

 

O plugged my LG 530 blu ray player into the center port last night and turned on the SNAPLINK thingy - when I turned off the TV the player also went to sleep so that is nice. Makes me almost want to buy some sort of LG speaker system that will work with the link -  but the nice ones come with a player in the kit and then I would have two. But you all knew that - and I purchased before I found these great pages.


Edited by Sting5920 - 2/27/14 at 4:18am
post #1063 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sting5920 View Post

I did call LG support last night and they told me that because there is an "app" on this TV for Hulu Plus - surfing or trying to load stream from the Free Hulu web site is a conflict. Content from the Free Hulu web site will always be blocked...  I suppose that [block] is buried in the programming to make you subscribe to Hulu Plus and become another profit center for LG.

. . .

I am not annoyed - I had planned to subscribe to Hulu soon anyway - but it is nice to now have a reason for the black screen.

Hulu has an official policy that the free Hulu is only for watching shows on a personal computer:
Quote:
Device access. Hulu.com is a free option for users who want to watch TV shows on their computers. Hulu is limited to the PC environment. Hulu Plus allows users to watch Hulu content instantly in HD (720p) to internet-connected TVs, Blu-ray players, gaming consoles, set-top boxes, iPads, iPhones, and many other devices. (To see a full list of Hulu Plus enabled devices, please visit: Hulu Plus Device page)

This is Hulu's policy, not LG's. Hulu and LG are completely different companies, so LG does not profit from it. If there is a block, it is Hulu's website implementing the block, not LG's browser. For example, I cannot watch Hulu in my iPad's web browser because Hulu blocks it. Instead, I see a page encouraging me to sign up for Hulu Plus. The free Hulu is really just a teaser to get people to eventually sign up for Hulu Plus.

That said, even though Hulu has a policy that the free Hulu is for personal computers only, they don't implement that perfectly. For example, they don't block this TV's web browser. As far as Hulu knows, this TV is a personal computer. I just watched part of the Daily Show on Hulu.com in the TV's browser and I wasn't logged into my Hulu account. It took me lots of attempts, but I got Chicago P.D. to play as well.

I did see the black screen you were talking about. I saw the same thing on CBS.com when I tried watching videos there. You may see that every time you try to watch video in this TV's browser. I found one solution is to reload the page until the video works. If that doesn't work, bookmark the page with the video, restart the browser, then click on the bookmark. That should do a more reliable job of flushing the browser's cache between attempts than just reloading the page.

In general, using this TV's web browser (and probably any TV's web browser) is going to be a pretty miserable experience (although it's still better than using a Blu-ray player's web browser).
post #1064 of 1201

I had the opportunity to watch my first 3D movie last night on this TV

 

As others have posted - The things I have missed by living with a 20 year old tube TV 

 

WOW -- Just WOW!

 

I put in the Disney disk - but I didn't have enough patience to get past the 2nd test screen LOL

post #1065 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sting5920 View Post

I had the opportunity to watch my first 3D movie last night on this TV

As others have posted - The things I have missed by living with a 20 year old tube TV 

WOW -- Just WOW!

I put in the Disney disk - but I didn't have enough patience to get past the 2nd test screen LOL

Which movie did you watch? I've only got two 3D movies so far: Dredd and The Great Gatsby. Unfortunately, 3D movies cost quite a bit more than their 2D equivalents. Also, it's near impossible to find 3D rentals.

I too just replaced my old picture tube TV.
post #1066 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by James Parsons View Post

Which movie did you watch? I've only got two 3D movies so far: Dredd and The Great Gatsby. Unfortunately, 3D movies cost quite a bit more than their 2D equivalents. Also, it's near impossible to find 3D rentals.

I too just replaced my old picture tube TV.

Vudu has a selection of 3D titles, though most are only available for purchase. And there's this outfit, though wait times can get a little longer since they're becoming more popular with owners of 3D displays:

http://www.3d-blurayrental.com/

Finally, if you subscribe to Comcast cable you can watch 3D titles from Starz & HBO via OnDemand, or "live" through the 3Net Channel.
post #1067 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by James Parsons View Post


Which movie did you watch? I've only got two 3D movies so far: Dredd and The Great Gatsby. Unfortunately, 3D movies cost quite a bit more than their 2D equivalents. Also, it's near impossible to find 3D rentals.

I too just replaced my old picture tube TV.
 
 

Star Trek Into Darkness

 

 

post #1068 of 1201

double post - sorry

post #1069 of 1201
Take all of these video settings with a grain of salt. There should be separate threads for the 47"/55" and 60" since they're different backlight technologies, but everyone is lumping settings together. That could confuse those who don't know better. Someone else's settings may get you close, but aren't necessarily the same on your set - even of the same screen size/technology.

In fact, it appears that some settings look quite differently on various sets. Some users are quite happy with manual settings, others prefer the WOW or AVS calibration discs, and others prefer the calibration settings with minor tweaks. Much of it comes down to personal preference and the variation from set to set.

I won't bother posting my software version as they're different in the USA, but it is the most current available in Australia. I've noticed no difference to anything from any software version, other than now the menu pops up from the remote a bit differently. It used to pause and load the entire screen at once. Now it tends to load some sections before others.

I still feel that the remote is one of the better features, as I use the voice command often. Again, user preference. I've sold my Harmony One as I no longer need it. Only using the Quick remote, mouse and keyboard.

Time Machine also works flawlessly in AU, shame that doesn't seem to be the case in the USA.

My room is dark or medium, never bright. I posted my settings for my 55" on page 28. After calibrating with Disney's WOW Blu-ray disc, I went right back to manual settings as the WOW calibration left a very "bland" picture - whites became light greys and colors looked faded. I've never had flash lighting (which may be specific to the 60" sets). I have no motion blur (Tru-Motion/User settings at 3-3, but anything different on either setting creates from small to drastic amounts). I have no lip sinc issues. I have 0 overrun on 16:9 nor on Just Scan resolutions, which probably has to do with PAL in Australia, rather than NTSC in the USA. I watched much of the Winter Olympics and noticed no issues at all with color variations or vertical lines. I've not had the urge to chance any settings since dialing it in months ago. I've had none of the issues mentioned by others on this thread, other than the apps/internet are terrible (which I don't use anyway).

I don't have a set top box, just a Blu-ray player connected through HDMI, PS3 through HDMI, my PC through HDMI, and digital free to air through the antenna. The PC has movie, TV shows, and scheduling hard drives attached through E-SATA. 90% of my usage is through the PC (XMBC for TV and most sports, browsers for the internet and NFL Game Pass, and KMPlayer for saved movies/TV shows). The other 10% of usage is split between Blu-ray player and free to air TV.

The only benefit I've noticed for Game mode is a bit less delay on the PS3 controller. It has limited options for video settings which make it unattractive to me - doesn't improve online gaming response at all. I've found that a little Kentucky windage (press and release the buttons sooner than normal by a fraction of a second) with the PS3 controller works just as well, allowing me to stay on Standard/User defined settings most of the time. Occasionally I change to Game mode for NCAA and NBA PS3 games as they can be finicky with any lag to the controller.

So I believe I got very lucky with my set (so far, and knock on wood). Too bad that not everyone has enjoyed the same luck, as this is a great TV when it all works.

Hope this helps someone. smile.gif
post #1070 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sting5920 View Post

Star Trek Into Darkness


I've got about 15 Blu-ray 3D movies that the kids pass along. Really haven't found much advantage (if any) over upscaling 2D movies though. Be interested if you notice a difference, if you get a chance to watch both. The 7400 upscales as well as any TV I've seen, but of course I haven't seen them all either. smile.gif
post #1071 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by dark41 View Post


I've got about 15 Blu-ray 3D movies that the kids pass along. Really haven't found much advantage (if any) over upscaling 2D movies though. Be interested if you notice a difference, if you get a chance to watch both. The 7400 upscales as well as any TV I've seen, but of course I haven't seen them all either. smile.gif


Last night I watched the movie that came out before it - it was BluRay but not 3D. It was very good and yes it appeared to be in 3D but it wasn't as good.

 

A better example of how well the scaling works might be watching old episodes of old tv. shows.  Take  MASH for example = Cln Potter stands in the fore ground now when addressing the troops

post #1072 of 1201
Does anyone have settings for the 55" after updating the firmware?

I saw James' settings, but I believe they are for the 60" and it seems there are some differences between the settings depending on the screen size.

Thanks.
post #1073 of 1201

Hey Guys,

 

I just purchases the la7400 and so far so good. I do have a few questions to ask. Are there any other tweaks besides the calibrations that you can perform on the la7400? i.e. downloading software that will allow you to download from the TV, using a different movie opening software other then flash, downloading files from the internet, expanding your app selection (similar to phones with variety of apps).

 

I have used the Calibration from reviews.lcdnet and I am not that impressed. Watching house of cards on netflix makes every scene look dim and blurry (the only nice scenes are the ones when it is shot outside, the white really stands out). I was wondering if anyone can post their calibrations (the exact settings they put color for color, option for option).

 

Other then that I really have no complaints about the TV. Albeit, I did seem to come across some lag at the SMART menu (after connecting an antenna to my tv)

 

Also I am having the biggest issue, which is not related to the TV (which may be a problem that some of you may or may have not come across), with transferring my movies (from my mac) to a usb drive. The file wont go into the folder -- "error code 0" (and when I convert it to another video codec the LG doesn't recognize it)? Well I figured i'd ask.

 

Thanks

post #1074 of 1201
Like many others I'm also seeing flashlighting in the bottom left corner and the upper right corner. I've been able to minimize the impact on the picture with these picture settings which I achieved using the Picture Wizard II:

Picture mode: Expert 1
backlight: 44
Contrast: 82
Brightness: 60
H sharpness 10
V sharpness 10
Color 55
Tint G4

Expert Control:
Dynamic Contrast: off
Super Resolution: off
Color Gamut: Standard
Edge Enhancer off
colcor filter off
expert pattern off
gamma 2.2

White balance:
Color temp medium
Method 2 points
Pattern outer
Points: high
red 0
green 0
blue 0

Picture control:
Noise reduction: off
MPEG noise reduction: off
black level: low
real cinema: off
motion eye care: off
LED local dimming: medium
Trumotion: off

I've also found it's useful to do an expert calibration of the display preferences when my MacBook Pro is connected via HDMI to the LG.
post #1075 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by wfiveash View Post

Like many others I'm also seeing flashlighting in the bottom left corner and the upper right corner. I've been able to minimize the impact on the picture with these picture settings which I achieved using the Picture Wizard II:

Picture mode: Expert 1
backlight: 44
Contrast: 82
Brightness: 60
H sharpness 10
V sharpness 10
Color 55
Tint G4

Expert Control:
Dynamic Contrast: off
Super Resolution: off
Color Gamut: Standard
Edge Enhancer off
colcor filter off
expert pattern off
gamma 2.2

White balance:
Color temp medium
Method 2 points
Pattern outer
Points: high
red 0
green 0
blue 0

Picture control:
Noise reduction: off
MPEG noise reduction: off
black level: low
real cinema: off
motion eye care: off
LED local dimming: medium
Trumotion: off

I've also found it's useful to do an expert calibration of the display preferences when my MacBook Pro is connected via HDMI to the LG.

Thanks, are there any settings for Netflix you would recommend or is it all the same for DTV, TV, netflix, etc.?

post #1076 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddiezee View Post

Thanks, are there any settings for Netflix you would recommend or is it all the same for DTV, TV, netflix, etc.?

That's just for DTV, TV, and HDMI (connected to my MacBook).
post #1077 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by wfiveash View Post

I've also found it's useful to do an expert calibration of the display preferences when my MacBook Pro is connected via HDMI to the LG.

Interesting. Your settings on my set are nowhere near the Disney WOW calibration settings.
The colors are bland (on mine) and whites are grey, blacks are grey or brownish.
This is where the user preference and/or variations between TVs comes into play?

With your settings on my set the WOW calibration shows:

White bars test: All 3 bars are clearly visible on the right (should only be the first one)
Ideal black test: -1% and -2%, should be 0
Ideal white test: All stars visible, +6.5%, should be 2 invisible stars and 0%
Super white test: -2% visible
Pictures tests
Sky: light lavender, should be deep blue
Fruit: bananas green and all reds very dark with purplish tint


Here's the settings after WOW calibration on my 55" including deep blue sky, yellow bananas and bright and dark reds in pictures tests:

Standard (User) - because I've found no need to change White Balance from defaults
Backlight: 29
Contrast: 92
Brightness: 58
Sharpness: 5
Color: 75
Tint: R20
Color Temp: C20

Advanced Control
Dynamic Contrast: Med
Dynamic Color: High
Preferred Color
Super Resolution Med
Gamma: Med

Picture Options
Noise Reduction: Low
MPEG Noise Reduction: Low
Black Level: Low
Real Cinema: Off
Motion Eye Care: High
LED Local Dimming: Med
TruMotion: Smooth (or User Defined)
De-Judder: 3
De-Blur: 3

Aspect Ratio: Just Scan (avoids overscan if your set suffers from it)


The color/dynamic color, add a bit more punch without distorting the blacks/whites. I prefer more "punch". smile.gif
But it took a bit of playing around to balance backlight, brightness and contrast to achieve the WOW recommended results on the black/white tests.

The only real adjustment I make backlight to 40. Otherwise I get eyestrain with the darker setting trying to read text.
post #1078 of 1201
Thanks for posting your set up. Do you have the new software updates installed?
post #1079 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcflyer55 View Post

Thanks for posting your set up. Do you have the new software updates installed?

I have 04.22.25 which is the newest available in Australia. It may be a different version in the USA. smile.gif
post #1080 of 1201
Quote:
Originally Posted by dark41 View Post


Interesting. Your settings on my set are nowhere near the Disney WOW calibration settings.
The colors are bland (on mine) and whites are grey, blacks are grey or brownish.
This is where the user preference and/or variations between TVs comes into play?

With your settings on my set the WOW calibration shows:

White bars test: All 3 bars are clearly visible on the right (should only be the first one)
Ideal black test: -1% and -2%, should be 0
Ideal white test: All stars visible, +6.5%, should be 2 invisible stars and 0%
Super white test: -2% visible
Pictures tests
Sky: light lavender, should be deep blue
Fruit: bananas green and all reds very dark with purplish tint


Here's the settings after WOW calibration on my 55" including deep blue sky, yellow bananas and bright and dark reds in pictures tests:

Standard (User) - because I've found no need to change White Balance from defaults
Backlight: 29
Contrast: 92
Brightness: 58
Sharpness: 5
Color: 75
Tint: R20
Color Temp: C20

Advanced Control
Dynamic Contrast: Med
Dynamic Color: High
Preferred Color
Super Resolution Med
Gamma: Med

Picture Options
Noise Reduction: Low
MPEG Noise Reduction: Low
Black Level: Low
Real Cinema: Off
Motion Eye Care: High
LED Local Dimming: Med
TruMotion: Smooth (or User Defined)
De-Judder: 3
De-Blur: 3

Aspect Ratio: Just Scan (avoids overscan if your set suffers from it)


The color/dynamic color, add a bit more punch without distorting the blacks/whites. I prefer more "punch". smile.gif
But it took a bit of playing around to balance backlight, brightness and contrast to achieve the WOW recommended results on the black/white tests.

The only real adjustment I make backlight to 40. Otherwise I get eyestrain with the darker setting trying to read text.

Under Expert 1 some of those tabs or sections are not there for instance  De-Judder, De-Blur, dynamic color. What settings would you recommend under expert 1 settings?

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