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Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread - Page 57

post #1681 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptinCrunch View Post

With OLED and 4K UHD TVs soon out at $12,000 and more that top end 55 inch Samsung or LG LED at $2300 doesnt look so expensive anymore. In fact, it looks cheap in comparison to how it will perform.

LG said Jan. 2 it started selling a 55-inch OLED set in South Korea for 11 million won ($10,140) and we expect the price here in the U.S. to be the same. LG has a head start in mass-marketing the technology as its larger rival, Samsung Electronics Co., has yet to begin sales. LG will expand OLED TV sales to North America, Europe and other Asian markets in the first quarter, it said at the time.

Pricing Predictions for OLED and 4K UHD TVs:

•Sony and LG's 55 inch OLED TVs sell for around $13,000 average and come down in price during the year to end at around $9,999.
•4K TVs come out in 55 inch at $15,000, 65 inch at $18,000 or so and 84 inches (with not many shipping at $20,000). Price certainly has room to drop and since OLED is really the better picture quality technology we expect a 20% decrease during the year with little adoption (remember early-adopters want to only pay up for something that is truly better).

Don't expect to see OLED prices equal to LED LCD's till at Least 2018 wink.gif

Actually 4k 55 inch sets from Samsung and Sony are around 5 k respectively. I believe this is the first year they are available and given the cost of OLED seem like the better option.
post #1682 of 6706
The LG 84" 4K price has dropped to 9.5K.
post #1683 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptinCrunch View Post

Don't expect to see OLED prices equal to LED LCD's till at Least 2018 wink.gif

http://www.techhive.com/article/255404/good_news_oled_tv_prices_will_fall_fast.html

Rumor has it that Samsung's 55" OLED that just shipped last week in Korea will be around $9000 for the North American launch. Analysts predict that prices will drop by 50% by the end of this year due to the higher production yield of OLED panels. Even more the prices will drop another 50% by the end of 2014. Early estimated prices like $12,000 to $18,000 was back when less than a fifth of OLED panels were usable, now about two thirds of OLED panels are usable and that will only get better and better over the next year making OLED TV's drop considerably in price.

Rest assured, OLED will be very affordable by the summer of 2014.
post #1684 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by adgrimes View Post

I'm sure yout tv like ours has a PC mode and a game mode--have you tried either to help? I beat bioshock infinite on this tv and IMO it was only truly playable in PC mode.

I have tried PC Mode and it does not improve the response time at all. There are still smearing and red/green trails on darker geometries. The only thing I can notice is the input lag being lower, the response time appears to be unaltered.
post #1685 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by AGuy01 View Post

PC Mode disables Smart LED, the feature the keeps blacks consistent and deep. Without it and you see much lighter blacks from the corners. It was painfully apparent when playing The Last of Us due to how dark that game is. I ended up just going back to Game Mode with its higher input lag in order to use Smart LED. With it enabled everything is absolutely perfect. Let's hope Samsung will put out a firmware update to bring the input lag down.

That is disappointing. I might use pc mode for call of duty online where hopefully I won't have time to look at at or notice the corners because I am pwning n00bs so much smile.gif maybe for beautiful games offline I will do game mode with smart led on low and everything else off. When you think of the processor analyzing 60 frames in one second and independently dimming 100 different zones (thus 6000 zones a second) at different brightnesses levels i guess i can understand under a second of lag time (80ms), but c'mon it's quad core! I still want my cake and eat it too, lets go samsung! smile.gif
post #1686 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

http://www.techhive.com/article/255404/good_news_oled_tv_prices_will_fall_fast.html

Rumor has it that Samsung's 55" OLED that just shipped last week in Korea will be around $9000 for the North American launch. Analysts predict that prices will drop by 50% by the end of this year due to the higher production yield of OLED panels. Even more the prices will drop another 50% by the end of 2014. Early estimated prices like $12,000 to $18,000 was back when less than a fifth of OLED panels were usable, now about two thirds of OLED panels are usable and that will only get better and better over the next year making OLED TV's drop considerably in price.

Rest assured, OLED will be very affordable by the summer of 2014.

ha that articles from 2012...
post #1687 of 6706
I'm a bit confused about these 4k sets. If there is no TV programming at 4k and Blurays aren't at 4k, why would anyone buy a TV when you can't fully appreciate the upgraded specs?

Am I missing something here?
post #1688 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by gq91355 View Post

I'm a bit confused about these 4k sets. If there is no TV programming at 4k and Blurays aren't at 4k, why would anyone buy a TV when you can't fully appreciate the upgraded specs?

Am I missing something here?

More pixels means more detail... even with 1080p content the picture will look more detailed especially up close and with larger screens. And of course 4k material will look stunning.
post #1689 of 6706
For those using DLNA(withough transcoding like plex or xbmc) and having their sound sent via ARC can you get more than stereo mode out of DTS movies?

*edit*
I just discovered if I selected DTS from PCM under my digital audio out options it went from stereo to surround sound.
*edit*

Honestly..it should automatically be switching it to surround sound when playing DD or DTS...the smarthub digital audio out is flawed. I really need to get my TV off the wall and plug into HDMI3
Edited by adgrimes - 6/27/13 at 10:33am
post #1690 of 6706
hey guys,

back of the f8000, by the power cord area and by the evolution kit, does it get hot? especially by the evolution kit?

also does your TV's make a popping sound here and there. My plasma made a lot of those early in it's life, (due to heat) but I'm wondering if my LED is making that sound or some other machine by my tv. I am asking because LED"s are definitely not as heat intensive and most of my tv seems to not generate much heat if at all, except for where the power cord area is and by the evolution kit in the back.

thanks!
post #1691 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by ag.jase View Post

hey guys,

back of the f8000, by the power cord area and by the evolution kit, does it get hot? especially by the evolution kit?

also does your TV's make a popping sound here and there. My plasma made a lot of those early in it's life, (due to heat) but I'm wondering if my LED is making that sound or some other machine by my tv. I am asking because LED"s are definitely not as heat intensive and most of my tv seems to not generate much heat if at all, except for where the power cord area is and by the evolution kit in the back.

thanks!
A popping sound while viewing is not normal...
post #1692 of 6706
So I got my UN75F8000 last week after a very long wait.
Well it's a stunner. But...
There was a really big and noticeable burnt pixel. So I immediately decided I wanted a replacement. Which the Future Shop installers agreed should be done. TV has stayed on my wall all week and replacement is coming tomorrow.
Here is a picture of something that does not seem normal to me as well.
Can someone tell me what this is and if it goes away? Regardless I'm getting a new one tomorrow but if I see this on the replacement set as well.
Thanks
post #1693 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by eric3316 View Post

A popping sound while viewing is not normal...

Mine started popping as well once I installed the Evo Kit, the popping sound coming through the audio... I think it has something to do with auto switching between channels.
post #1694 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by youyou View Post

So I got my UN75F8000 last week after a very long wait.
Well it's a stunner. But...
There was a really big and noticeable burnt pixel. So I immediately decided I wanted a replacement. Which the Future Shop installers agreed should be done. TV has stayed on my wall all week and replacement is coming tomorrow.
Here is a picture of something that does not seem normal to me as well.
Can someone tell me what this is and if it goes away? Regardless I'm getting a new one tomorrow but if I see this on the replacement set as well.
Thanks

Your common screen uniformity issue. Did you activate Micro Dimming?
post #1695 of 6706
Hi everyone, Just bought the un60f8000 today and excited to replace my Sony 55 inch from 2004. I'm reading all these threads but wanted to say hello. I'll be hooking the TV in through a Sony surround sound system and have Directv, PS3, and Apple TV.

Hoping to find the latest calibration settings and might have questions tomorrow when I set it all up. I'm thinking I might have to get a newer Directv DVR but I'm not sure yet.
post #1696 of 6706
Is there a way to make the TV actually turn on faster? It takes FOREVER to actually "be fully ready" compared to my 5-year old TV.

Mainly it's causing problems using my Harmony remote because it takes so long before the harmony can tell it the source? And sometimes it seems to fire too quickly..
post #1697 of 6706
I'm changing from an old Sony TV that didn't even read 1080p to this set. In reading this thread I saw someone mention new HDMI cables. Should I go out and get the Category 2, 1080p, Type A cables? Would they still be used if I'm using a surround sound receiver?
post #1698 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by jb17 View Post

I'm changing from an old Sony TV that didn't even read 1080p to this set. In reading this thread I saw someone mention new HDMI cables. Should I go out and get the Category 2, 1080p, Type A cables? Would they still be used if I'm using a surround sound receiver?

Only get new cables if your old ones are so old that they are category 1 standard speed cables not high speed. If you hook it up and you aren't dropping picture or audio you are good. If you are don't spend more than $10 on a new hdmi cable. Your old cables that aren't spec'd for 1.4 3D probably will work anyways smile.gif
post #1699 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassMonger1 View Post

Only get new cables if your old ones are so old that they are category 1 standard speed cables not high speed. If you hook it up and you aren't dropping picture or audio you are good. If you are don't spend more than $10 on a new hdmi cable. Your old cables that aren't spec'd for 1.4 3D probably will work anyways smile.gif

Well, my set is so old it didn't have 1080p so I'm guessing I should get new cables. The question is how many? One from TV to tuner. One from DVR to tuner and one from PS3 to tuner?
post #1700 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by jb17 View Post

Well, my set is so old it didn't have 1080p so I'm guessing I should get new cables. The question is how many? One from TV to tuner. One from DVR to tuner and one from PS3 to tuner?

I've been wondering about the best cable configuration, too.

Currently, I have my new F8000 set up with one HDMI going from the TV to my Yamaha receiver, and my DirecTV DVR and Oppo Bluray player connected to the Yamaha receiver with HDMI cables, too. The guy at Pacific Sales said it was best to have HDMI cables for all devices going to the TV, but I've been happy with this configuration. I like how I can turn off the TV and still hear music channels or Pandora thru the DirecTV DVR.

However, after fiddling around with Smart Hub, I noticed that I'm not getting any sound from the Smart Hub apps. I'm guessing I should also run a digital optical cable from the TV to the Yamaha?
post #1701 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by gq91355 View Post

I've been wondering about the best cable configuration, too.

Currently, I have my new F8000 set up with one HDMI going from the TV to my Yamaha receiver, and my DirecTV DVR and Oppo Bluray player connected to the Yamaha receiver with HDMI cables, too. The guy at Pacific Sales said it was best to have HDMI cables for all devices going to the TV, but I've been happy with this configuration. I like how I can turn off the TV and still hear music channels or Pandora thru the DirecTV DVR.

However, after fiddling around with Smart Hub, I noticed that I'm not getting any sound from the Smart Hub apps. I'm guessing I should also run a digital optical cable from the TV to the Yamaha?
Does your yahmaha support arc? You could always have the receiver going to hdmi3 to utilize arc.

Otherwise yes digital out would work..that is what I'm using now but I want to try out ARC(just a PITA to get off wall to put to hdmi 3). Using digital audio out sometimes to get 6 channels you have to switch from Dolby digital and DTS depending on media that is playing from smart hub.
post #1702 of 6706
I don't have a clue what ARC is, but this is my Yamaha receiver:

http://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio-visual/av-receivers-amps/rx/rx-v667/?mode=model
post #1703 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by gq91355 View Post

I've been wondering about the best cable configuration, too.

Currently, I have my new F8000 set up with one HDMI going from the TV to my Yamaha receiver, and my DirecTV DVR and Oppo Bluray player connected to the Yamaha receiver with HDMI cables, too. The guy at Pacific Sales said it was best to have HDMI cables for all devices going to the TV, but I've been happy with this configuration. I like how I can turn off the TV and still hear music channels or Pandora thru the DirecTV DVR.

However, after fiddling around with Smart Hub, I noticed that I'm not getting any sound from the Smart Hub apps. I'm guessing I should also run a digital optical cable from the TV to the Yamaha?

The Pacific Sales salesman is not totally correct. The way you have it connected is better.
Hdmi will pass DTS-HD master audio and Dolby TrueHD. Fiber optic (toslink) and digital coax will not. Tv's output is fiber optic or digital coax.
ARC stands for audio return channel. A receiver must have it, your Yamaha does, as well as the tv. Arc is used when watching an app from the smart hub or you can use the optical out of the tv to the receiver. But they will not pass the higher formats like DTS-HD master audio or Dolby TrueHD.

Hook up all hdmi cables to the avr and let it be the switching unit. It can handle the higher audio formats.

Read about the audio formats here:
http://bluray.highdefdigest.com/news/show/Joshua_Zyber/High-Def_FAQ:_Blu-ray_and_HD_DVD_Audio_Explained/1064
post #1704 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by digimat View Post

It's not local dimming it's micro dimming but functions in a similar way to local dimming... it's enabled through Smart LED in the menu.
Can you please elaborate on this? My UE55F8000SL does not have this Smart LED function in the menu.
post #1705 of 6706
I will be setting up the 8000 today. The receiver is a Sony STR-DN1010. I know my Directv DVR gets 1080p but not sure if it does 3D yet
post #1706 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkY2 View Post

Can you please elaborate on this? My UE55F8000SL does not have this Smart LED function in the menu.
The European f8000 don't have smart Led settings like the US versions.
post #1707 of 6706
Hi All,

I just picked up a UN60F8000BFXZA yesterday, upgrading from a Samsung LN32xxxxxx. Out of the box it looks really good. I've noticed that in some of my favorite shows like Firefly and Game of Thrones I cna see so much detail and apparent depth that you can almost tell that it's filmed on a set or that any CGI is more obvious, like it blows the illusion of reality. It reminded me of when Digital CD Audio came out and you could hear any flaws in the musical recording.

I haven't done much tweaking of the picture settings yet, but I would like to be able to set them to the optimum settings. Where should I look for a good starting point? I know I would have to tweak any suggested settings for my own environment and viewing habits, but the recommendations would help me a lot to get started. Thanks a bunch!
post #1708 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkY2 View Post

Can you please elaborate on this? My UE55F8000SL does not have this Smart LED function in the menu.

You do not have local dimming (the LEDs dim) you have software dimming (the pixels are blocked).

From a previous post:
local dimming (the leds behind a zone dim) which samsung calls smart led which is defeatable. It doesnt necessarily have to be a full array for this. What you are talking about is micro dimming which is software based and not defeatable except for movie mode, game mode, pc mode or cal day/night. Microdimming divides the screen into thousands of zones that the quad core analyzes to adjust color, contrast and sharpness based on the source. It's essentially always on with no toggle unfortunately. Smart led divides the edge lighting into two zones (left and right) and about 50 zones up and down. Since the LEDs are only on the right and left side if the panel it creates about 100 long rectangular zones. Samsung could make uniformity better by using LEDs around all 4 sides but that would cost way too much. The tv is only $2799! Anyway it's not as good as local dimming but works great for cinema black as you can imagine. This is why the blacks are so much better than on the 7100 or 7500 and presumably the UE models.
post #1709 of 6706
Quote:
Originally Posted by megnin View Post

Hi All,

I haven't done much tweaking of the picture settings yet, but I would like to be able to set them to the optimum settings. Where should I look for a good starting point? I know I would have to tweak any suggested settings for my own environment and viewing habits, but the recommendations would help me a lot to get started. Thanks a bunch!

Cnet just posted their calibration of the F8000. Look on this tread or the other F8000 thread for what other owners have come up with. There are some blu-ray calibration disc you can use also.
I'm almost done calibrating my UN75F8000. I've used the calibration discs, plugged in cnet's and other owners calibrations. I'll be posting my findings soon. It's best to compare apples to apples calibrations. 8000 to 8000, not 8000 to a different model in the line.

Good luck.
behindrewind
post #1710 of 6706
Thanks much, bekindrewind!
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