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Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread - Page 78

post #2311 of 6702
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad817 View Post

I have a receiver plugged in and when I switch inputs on it I get a pop up message, how do you disable that?

I found a solution to this problem I was having earlier. I had to go into Universal Remote Setup and delete the cable box, the TV was looking for the device when I switched inputs.
post #2312 of 6702
Anyone check out input lag lately? I have firmware version 1110 and now the input lag on Game Mode appears to be very close to PC Mode. I don't have any equipment to verify any improvement but it feels nearly identical to PC mode's input lag. Samsung listened to our pleas!

Now with input lag very tolerable in Game Mode, I'm very satisfied with the F8000. I borrowed Halo 4 from my brother (I'm not much of a console gamer, I prefer PC now) and the widescreen pre-rendered cut scenes in the game are STUNNING. With Cinema Black on the top and bottom bars and Smart LED in Game Mode, the cut scenes popped and the contrast at times with the deep black levels felt like I was looking through a window. Even in the beginning gameplay segments when you're exploring the abandoned ship, the few lights in the ship really showed off the contrast on the F8000. I've read professional reviews that found the ANSI contrast ratio is 2,949 :1 with the 5x5 pattern. Very good for a 2,500 dollar set with such superb color accuracy. The glossy finish also gives an added sense of depth in the picture.

I confirmed my 3 year extended warranty with Square Trade which I got for only $189, so if any chronic issues or panel failures occur in 4 years I'll be good to go. But in 4 years time I'll be ready to get the flagship OLED (probably from Samsung biggrin.gif ) or even a 4K OLED model if that matures by then. Overall very happy to have the F8000 and look forward to using it for several years to come.

I highly recommend the F8000 to anyone who wants a reasonably future proof LED set until OLED is perfected. The F8000 made CNET's Best HDTV's Overall list, which is a list of the best TV's of all time. Seriously, go to a store who has the F8000 on display and you'll know what I'm on about.
post #2313 of 6702
Be very careful with warranties. I was reading one the other day and it used fair market value (used), not replacement value, as their coverage before deductible.
post #2314 of 6702
I just updated to the 1110 firmware on my 55 F8000 and did the hard reset, as soon as I went back to redo all my settings I noticed a much softer looking picture. Has anybody else noticed this with the 1110 update?

Back to normal with FW 1111.
Edited by ozark - 9/12/13 at 1:30pm
post #2315 of 6702
Hey everyone, looking for some help/wisdom here in my troubleshooting endeavor.

2 weeks ago I bought a Marantz SR-5007 Receiver and a Samsung 65" F8000 TV. My setup is as follows : Samsung BD Player, Mac Mini, U-Verse box all going to Marantz Receiver via HDMI. Marantz to TV via HDMI. HDMI-CEC turned on on both TV & Receiver for audio output from Samsung SmartHub on TV to Receiver.

Initially I tested everything out to make sure all devices were working with the new setup. I then noticed an issue with two of the devices later that occurred intermittently (a couple times each). Issue :

1. Tried to play a 3D blu-ray and got a blue screen message from the BD player saying I have to have a 3D HDTV and a BD player with the latest firmware to play the disc. I tried another 3D disc, same message. I tried a 2D disc and played fine. I power cycled and tried changing cables/same thing. I unplugged power to Marantz receiver and then the issue went away (can't recall if I power cycled the BD player at same time, probably did). Other times it would play just fine and then other times the message came back.

2. Switched to mac mini input to play something on Win 8 (dual booting with Mac OS on mac mini) and got a message from TV in a box on screen saying "Resolution not supported". This was weird to me because it was working fine when I tested it after initial setup. I tried changing resolutions on mini for the fun of it and nothing worked. I eventually rebooted in to Mac OS to see if message would show from there too and screen came up fine. I rebooted back in to Win 8 and worked fine then... very weird. other times it would work fine in Win 8 and couple times go the resolution message from tv.

3. Marantz receiver was turning itself on. This happened like 3 times in the passed 2 weeks since I've had it. I would be in room and hear a click and look over to see it on. The guy told me to try turning off HDMI-CEC/Anynet+ to see if that was somehow causing it to turn on otherwise it could be an issue with the power supply relay or something. I turned it off and am monitoring that issue... hasn't happened in passed day or so since.. we'll see on this one...

I called Marantz tech support to see if they had any input thinking it could be the receiver. The guy told me of the HDMI EDID, which apparently is a signal that is sent when devices come on via HDMI that says what the other devices capabilities are (resolution/refresh/3D/etc). He said sounds like the EDID communication is being lost somewhere. He pointed to the TV losing it somehow and said that doing the power cycle or unplugging/replugging HDMI would re-initiate (which the unplugging HDMI didn't, but still). Once when I got the resolution message on the mini I grabbed an extra HDMI and plugged it directly from mini to TV and switched to that input on TV and got the same message... That made me think it is the TV.. I just don't know at this point and am trying to figure out which device is causing the issue so I can take it back and swap out. I think I'm going to plug the BD player and mini directly to the TV via HDMI, temporarily for troubleshooting, to see if the issue persists that way. If so I will know its the TV and maybe is a firmware issue or something (have the latest on everything). The TV is new to Samsung so maybe that could be it.... I'm at a loss ...

any help/input would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks much

Billy
post #2316 of 6702
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZIGGYH View Post

Hey everyone, looking for some help/wisdom here in my troubleshooting endeavor.

2 weeks ago I bought a Marantz SR-5007 Receiver and a Samsung 65" F8000 TV. My setup is as follows : Samsung BD Player, Mac Mini, U-Verse box all going to Marantz Receiver via HDMI. Marantz to TV via HDMI. HDMI-CEC turned on on both TV & Receiver for audio output from Samsung SmartHub on TV to Receiver.

Initially I tested everything out to make sure all devices were working with the new setup. I then noticed an issue with two of the devices later that occurred intermittently (a couple times each). Issue :

1. Tried to play a 3D blu-ray and got a blue screen message from the BD player saying I have to have a 3D HDTV and a BD player with the latest firmware to play the disc. I tried another 3D disc, same message. I tried a 2D disc and played fine. I power cycled and tried changing cables/same thing. I unplugged power to Marantz receiver and then the issue went away (can't recall if I power cycled the BD player at same time, probably did). Other times it would play just fine and then other times the message came back.

2. Switched to mac mini input to play something on Win 8 (dual booting with Mac OS on mac mini) and got a message from TV in a box on screen saying "Resolution not supported". This was weird to me because it was working fine when I tested it after initial setup. I tried changing resolutions on mini for the fun of it and nothing worked. I eventually rebooted in to Mac OS to see if message would show from there too and screen came up fine. I rebooted back in to Win 8 and worked fine then... very weird. other times it would work fine in Win 8 and couple times go the resolution message from tv.

3. Marantz receiver was turning itself on. This happened like 3 times in the passed 2 weeks since I've had it. I would be in room and hear a click and look over to see it on. The guy told me to try turning off HDMI-CEC/Anynet+ to see if that was somehow causing it to turn on otherwise it could be an issue with the power supply relay or something. I turned it off and am monitoring that issue... hasn't happened in passed day or so since.. we'll see on this one...

I called Marantz tech support to see if they had any input thinking it could be the receiver. The guy told me of the HDMI EDID, which apparently is a signal that is sent when devices come on via HDMI that says what the other devices capabilities are (resolution/refresh/3D/etc). He said sounds like the EDID communication is being lost somewhere. He pointed to the TV losing it somehow and said that doing the power cycle or unplugging/replugging HDMI would re-initiate (which the unplugging HDMI didn't, but still). Once when I got the resolution message on the mini I grabbed an extra HDMI and plugged it directly from mini to TV and switched to that input on TV and got the same message... That made me think it is the TV.. I just don't know at this point and am trying to figure out which device is causing the issue so I can take it back and swap out. I think I'm going to plug the BD player and mini directly to the TV via HDMI, temporarily for troubleshooting, to see if the issue persists that way. If so I will know its the TV and maybe is a firmware issue or something (have the latest on everything). The TV is new to Samsung so maybe that could be it.... I'm at a loss ...

any help/input would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks much

Billy

Well Billy, there's a saying, if it wasn't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all.

I enjoyed reading about your situation. Wait, that didn't come out right. It's refreshing to read how concise your email is. Yeah, that's what I meant.
If I were in your shoes,(thank goodness I'm not...sigh) I'd hook up one thing to the tv at a time, wait a couple days then add another devise.
Tv to receiver. Try that for a couple days and see if the receiver or tv comes on by themselves. If so, call celebrity ghost stories and get them over to your house pronto!
Tv to receiver, blu-ray to receiver.
Tv to receiver, blu-ray to receiver, U-Verse to receiver.
Keep adding items to the receiver.
When something happens, start taking things back out, in reverse order, till you find which one is the trouble maker.

Do you have a surge protector or line conditioner in place?
post #2317 of 6702
SquareTrade doesn't have a deductible for repairs and does a full purchase price refund/replacement value. Parts and labor for an in home replacement of the power board for example, generally costs $120 to $150. Since the 3 year extended warranty that starts a year after the purchase date, it'll only take a couple repairs for the $189 price to pay for itself. I'm obviously hoping the TV doesn't have any problems but the attractive part of the warranty is the full purchase price refund if the TV is unrepairable. Typically, unrepairable includes repeat part replacements for the same issue, unavailable replacement part, or panel failure.

By the time 4 years comes around, I'll either have sold the TV or will be aching for an upgrade since OLED will be very mature and affordable by then. I'll probably have my own apartment/home by then, so I'll probably need a second TV anyways.

Believe it or not, I take calls for TV troubleshooting for National Electronics Warranty (I'm a tech support rep that supports over a dozen products/services). There are some people who have chronic issues where their plan really pays for itself. The TigerDirect salesman was able to take off $100 from the original warranty price, so I thought, why not? It isn't worth the headache to have a TV fail just over a year later and have to pay out of pocket and then doubting it's future integrity.
post #2318 of 6702
http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs/KN55S9CAFXZA

OLED is finally here... EPIC. I can't wait until a 55" flat panel OLED is around $3,000. I'll probably need a bigger screen though, assuming I'll be living on my own. Gahh, I'm so excited even though it will be a while until I will buy an OLED.
post #2319 of 6702
Thoughts on Crutchfield?
post #2320 of 6702
hey just wondering if anybody on here tried to use nitra's setting for his es8000 on their f8000? it's by far the best setting i found. Heres the link to his setting http://www.avsforum.com/t/1399319/official-samsung-unxxes8000-owners-thread/1050
post #2321 of 6702
I called Samsung this afternoon. Honestly, every time I speak with them I hang up astonished.

I asked them if there was any reason why the standard remote they shipped us doesn't have a 3D button when there are a dozen other standard remotes that do have a 3D button, including the one that ships with the F8000 in Europe this year. She said every year the remotes change and the buttons are different and use different codes. This is not true, because my qwerty remote from 2011 works fine. Also, the silver/chrome remote I bought from Ebay works fine also, and it has a 3D button. She insisted that no other remote would be suitable. Whatever. Next subject.

I told her I just registered the tv and it now shows I still have the ES7500 from last year, and I couldn't find a way to remove it from my account. I asked if she could remove it and she said no, they can't. I would need to contact the webmaster? and ask for step-by-step directions to remove the item from my account. Typical Samsung - God forbid there's an option like "remove this item from my account" to make things easy. Oh well, next subject.

I then mentioned how the 3D menu doesn't remember the "high" setting under 3D light output, and every time I turn on the set I have to go into the menu and put it back on high again and it's very annoying to have to do that every time I watch 3D. She said they get a lot of calls about that and she knows what I'm talking about, but they have no intention of changing it. She said they wanted it that way for whatever reason. Her reason didn't make a lot of sense and I can't completely remember what she said the reason was because it was nonsense. I asked her that, since so many people call to complain about that, maybe they should listen to their customers and change it in a firmware update. She said they only use the firmware updates for bug fixes, not improvements!!!! So she said if Samsung decides to change that setting so it retains your previous setting, they wouldn't implement it until the 2014 sets!! I told her I'm astonished that Samsung doesn't take customer feedback into consideration for firmware updates and improvements. She said that's just how they do things and she would enter my comments into their feedback page but don't expect them to change anything!

So there's some great customer service there, Samsung! Exemplary! So forget improvements in their firmware - it ain't gonna happen. Buggy AMP - well, that's how they designed it. So that won't get addressed since they don't consider it broken (even though it most certainly is). Honestly this has got to be one of the worst companies I have ever dealt with. This may be a very nice set, but the support is bottom-tier.
post #2322 of 6702
Quote:
Originally Posted by seansingh7326 View Post

hey just wondering if anybody on here tried to use nitra's setting for his es8000 on their f8000? it's by far the best setting i found. Heres the link to his setting http://www.avsforum.com/t/1399319/official-samsung-unxxes8000-owners-thread/1050

Personally, I never like Nitra's settings. I tried them last year and I was never happy with the color and it also seemed too dark. I couldn't be happier with my tweaked settings based on Buzzard's settings.
post #2323 of 6702
bekindrewind, first I like your nickname! haha .. I remember going in to Hollywood or Blockbuster and seeing that "Be Kind, Rewind!" LMAO .. funny smile.gif

Thanks, I tried to get it all in one message so there wouldn't be a bunch of going back and forth.. that does get frustrating when reading blogs and someone left out some important information, which I guess happens frequently wink.gif ..

I do have all devices plugged in to a Monster Power : Home Theater Power Center HTS MKIII. I believe this device does some power conditioning/etc. What are your thoughts on that? Do you think that has any affect?

I have my BD player and Mac Mini both hooked in to the TV via HDMI each currently. I'm outputting the audio from the TV to the Marantz Receiver via Optical. I've been using this setup for about a day now and haven't notice the issue so far (I've been switching back and forth a bunch to try and make it happen). I will keep monitoring this for a couple days and if it doesn't happen again I think I'll reach out to Marantz support and see if they have anything to say about my results. If it does point to the Marantz, I'll try increasing the power on delay for the TV and the Marantz so everything has time to boot up before communication starts.

FYI, now that I've turned off the HDMI-CEC/Anynet+ I haven't noticed the Marantz turning itself on, which only happened every once in a while, but still. I'll continue to observe...

Thanks for your feedback! smile.gif Cheers!
post #2324 of 6702
Quote:
Originally Posted by ozark View Post

I just updated to the 1110 firmware on my 55 F8000 and did the hard reset, as soon as I went back to redo all my settings I noticed a much softer looking picture. Has anybody else noticed this with the 1110 update?

I really hope not. I haven't allowed that update to go through yet. I can't see why that would be the case - it's not like they actually do anything in these updates, according to them, other than fix bugs. Why would they soften the picture?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cjvnyc View Post

Be very careful with warranties. I was reading one the other day and it used fair market value (used), not replacement value, as their coverage before deductible.

This doesn't apply to Squaretrade. The Squaretrade warranty doesn't work like that. And there is no deductible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

Anyone check out input lag lately? I have firmware version 1110 and now the input lag on Game Mode appears to be very close to PC Mode. I don't have any equipment to verify any improvement but it feels nearly identical to PC mode's input lag. Samsung listened to our pleas!

Now with input lag very tolerable in Game Mode, I'm very satisfied with the F8000. I borrowed Halo 4 from my brother (I'm not much of a console gamer, I prefer PC now) and the widescreen pre-rendered cut scenes in the game are STUNNING. With Cinema Black on the top and bottom bars and Smart LED in Game Mode, the cut scenes popped and the contrast at times with the deep black levels felt like I was looking through a window. Even in the beginning gameplay segments when you're exploring the abandoned ship, the few lights in the ship really showed off the contrast on the F8000. I've read professional reviews that found the ANSI contrast ratio is 2,949 :1 with the 5x5 pattern. Very good for a 2,500 dollar set with such superb color accuracy. The glossy finish also gives an added sense of depth in the picture.

I confirmed my 3 year extended warranty with Square Trade which I got for only $189, so if any chronic issues or panel failures occur in 4 years I'll be good to go. But in 4 years time I'll be ready to get the flagship OLED (probably from Samsung biggrin.gif ) or even a 4K OLED model if that matures by then. Overall very happy to have the F8000 and look forward to using it for several years to come.

I highly recommend the F8000 to anyone who wants a reasonably future proof LED set until OLED is perfected. The F8000 made CNET's Best HDTV's Overall list, which is a list of the best TV's of all time. Seriously, go to a store who has the F8000 on display and you'll know what I'm on about.

I'll believe this when I see it. I'll have to measure the input lag myself because after my last call with Samsung today, it seems like they do nothing to improve functionality, so I doubt that they fixed anything. But that's just my doubting nature with them. I'll try some more tests.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dkaleita View Post

Update: My dealer agreed to replace my set even though it was past their normal 30 day return window. I received the replacement yesterday. Thankfully, the problem is 90% better- definitely at an acceptable level to me. But strangely, I can still detect a definite difference in color balance between the left eye and the right eye when viewing in 3D. My wife sees the same thing. And to make sure it wasn't our eyes, we verified the problem by closing one eye and moving the glasses back and forth to alternately look through each of the two lenses in the glasses. Yes, the effect is subtle, but colors definitely look more rich and saturated through the left lens of the glasses than through the right lens. This effect is NOT visible when using those same glasses to view 3D on our older (UN40D6000 series) set.

Those of you who are watching 3D on your new F8000 series sets: can you please look carefully and report back whether you can see a difference in color or brightness between the left and right eye images?

I tested for this, and I can confirm what you are saying. For whatever odd reason, the left eye appears to be a tiny bit darker and more saturated. It's very subtle, but there's a difference. The right eye appears a tiny bit brighter and less saturated. This is with the 2011 3D glasses. I tried with black and white (Creature from the Black Lagoon), and I could see the difference. With color, it was more difficult to see the difference, but it was there. Very odd. I have no idea why this is. I can't imagine why.
post #2325 of 6702
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I tested for this, and I can confirm what you are saying. For whatever odd reason, the left eye appears to be a tiny bit darker and more saturated. It's very subtle, but there's a difference. The right eye appears a tiny bit brighter and less saturated. This is with the 2011 3D glasses. I tried with black and white (Creature from the Black Lagoon), and I could see the difference. With color, it was more difficult to see the difference, but it was there. Very odd. I have no idea why this is. I can't imagine why.

I've been told that some ISF-certified calibrators will, upon request, calibrate 3D mode through the actual 3D glasses. But I wonder how they would deal with needing a DIFFERENT calibration for the left and right eyes!
post #2326 of 6702
Quote:
Originally Posted by CeazeTM View Post

Here's my dialog with Samsung CNET tech concerning the rainbow effect, follow this link:

http://forums.cnet.com/7723-13973_102-598822/un55f8000-rainbow-from-glare-question/?tag=contentBody;threadListing

They say its normal.

Normal my ass :-). This is my third f8000, first two went back do to dead pixels and I can assure you that the first two did't have this issue.


I did more research and apparently started to happen after Samsung change it the Panel version which I bet anything have a different anti glare.
post #2327 of 6702
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I called Samsung this afternoon. Honestly, every time I speak with them I hang up astonished.

I asked them if there was any reason why the standard remote they shipped us doesn't have a 3D button when there are a dozen other standard remotes that do have a 3D button, including the one that ships with the F8000 in Europe this year. She said every year the remotes change and the buttons are different and use different codes. This is not true, because my qwerty remote from 2011 works fine. Also, the silver/chrome remote I bought from Ebay works fine also, and it has a 3D button. She insisted that no other remote would be suitable. Whatever. Next subject.

I told her I just registered the tv and it now shows I still have the ES7500 from last year, and I couldn't find a way to remove it from my account. I asked if she could remove it and she said no, they can't. I would need to contact the webmaster? and ask for step-by-step directions to remove the item from my account. Typical Samsung - God forbid there's an option like "remove this item from my account" to make things easy. Oh well, next subject.

I then mentioned how the 3D menu doesn't remember the "high" setting under 3D light output, and every time I turn on the set I have to go into the menu and put it back on high again and it's very annoying to have to do that every time I watch 3D. She said they get a lot of calls about that and she knows what I'm talking about, but they have no intention of changing it. She said they wanted it that way for whatever reason. Her reason didn't make a lot of sense and I can't completely remember what she said the reason was because it was nonsense. I asked her that, since so many people call to complain about that, maybe they should listen to their customers and change it in a firmware update. She said they only use the firmware updates for bug fixes, not improvements!!!! So she said if Samsung decides to change that setting so it retains your previous setting, they wouldn't implement it until the 2014 sets!! I told her I'm astonished that Samsung doesn't take customer feedback into consideration for firmware updates and improvements. She said that's just how they do things and she would enter my comments into their feedback page but don't expect them to change anything!

So there's some great customer service there, Samsung! Exemplary! So forget improvements in their firmware - it ain't gonna happen. Buggy AMP - well, that's how they designed it. So that won't get addressed since they don't consider it broken (even though it most certainly is). Honestly this has got to be one of the worst companies I have ever dealt with. This may be a very nice set, but the support is bottom-tier.

I wouldn't be surprised if the reason there's an amazon button is because they get paid by amazon to have it on their remotes, so in a sense they had to have that button, and perhaps they want you to use the silver remote the set came with.
post #2328 of 6702
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkvader001 View Post

Normal my ass :-). This is my third f8000, first two went back do to dead pixels and I can assure you that the first two did't have this issue.


I did more research and apparently started to happen after Samsung change it the Panel version which I bet anything have a different anti glare.

My tv was manufactured in April. It was one of the early batches that Best Buy got, and it has the rainbow effect glare.
post #2329 of 6702
Quote:
Originally Posted by CeazeTM View Post

I wouldn't be surprised if the reason there's an amazon button is because they get paid by amazon to have it on their remotes, so in a sense they had to have that button, and perhaps they want you to use the silver remote the set came with.

If that's the case, then why did Europe get 2 remotes, including a standard remote with a 3D button?
post #2330 of 6702
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

How do you "fix" a dead pixel with a part, other than replacing the entire panel?
Exactly. I'm waiting on Samsung response
post #2331 of 6702
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkaleita View Post

I've been told that some ISF-certified calibrators will, upon request, calibrate 3D mode through the actual 3D glasses. But I wonder how they would deal with needing a DIFFERENT calibration for the left and right eyes!

Needing?
post #2332 of 6702
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkaleita View Post

I've been told that some ISF-certified calibrators will, upon request, calibrate 3D mode through the actual 3D glasses. But I wonder how they would deal with needing a DIFFERENT calibration for the left and right eyes!

I'm not sure how a 3D calibration is done, taking the glasses into consideration. I know a few pro calibrators do it, but I don't know how they do it. Regarding the difference between the two lenses, I'm not sure if anything can or needs to be done. I'm not sure why there's a difference between the two lenses. I'd be curious to hear the explanation, since I noticed the same thing as you did, so there must be a technical reason for it. Is it just by mistake that the left lenses are a bit darker or have more tinting applied? Is there a reason for it or is it random and some don't have that issue? At any rate, I don't know if it's intended for a reason or not, but I doubt if there's anything a calibrator could do.
post #2333 of 6702
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Personally, I never like Nitra's settings. I tried them last year and I was never happy with the color and it also seemed too dark. I couldn't be happier with my tweaked settings based on Buzzard's settings.
eagle, any chance you could post or pm me your full settings? It looks like you have a critical eye and so I think your settings may get me a much better picture. Hopefully it's not too much of an inconvenience.
post #2334 of 6702
Quote:
Originally Posted by oreb View Post

Lewis, let us know if you still notice it with AMP Off. I had AMP off the whole time since I don't really like any interpolation and was a bit puzzled by what you were talking about with the stuttering. I'm actually going to test it for stuttering and watch the TV with AMP on for a few days. I'm pretty sure this TV is native 240.

*edit, changed "interlacing" to "interpolation"

I have been using the set every night for the past few days. I have watched HD content off Cable, Dune player and my Oppo 95 and the stuttering is completely gone. I have been able to keep the AMP setting on "CLEAR" (as Eagle_2 pointed out) and it works fine without stuttering.

I do have to tell you, the picture on this TV produces is AMAZING - I changed the settings as recommended in an earlier post and the picture is like looking through a window. We watched The Dark Knight (Batman 1) last night and the scene near the beginning where he is walking near the glacier is unbelievable.

Anyway I am still working through some nits (I hate that when you first turn on the TV you have this multi-menu screen, I am sure there is way to get rid of it, just haven't figured it out yet) but so far, other than the AMP (the auto motion program) I have no complaints
post #2335 of 6702
Quote:
I have been using the set every night for the past few days. I have watched HD content off Cable, Dune player and my Oppo 95 and the stuttering is completely gone. I have been able to keep the AMP setting on "CLEAR" (as Eagle_2 pointed out) and it works fine without stuttering.

I've been testing the set for stuttering the past couple of days and I noticed nothing. I do have my setting on "clear" because the standard and smooth are unwatchable to me. I'm going to try custom now. But so far so good.
post #2336 of 6702
Hi Guy`s ,

The AMP function on the F8000 is one of it`s many bugs ! eek.gif

The function works fine , but it does not work at all ! ____OK what the hell do I mean ?

It is source dependent , if the signal going to the F8000 is really off , then the AMP won`t work well or will not work at all.

If the source signal is nominal , then the "Clear" setting would be best as it would still allow for any fluctuation of nominal source signal.

I have Comcast , and I am not pleased with the delivery of there signal as it varies from day to day or even hour to hour.

Sometimes the ticker at the bottom of the screen on CNN or ESPN , will stutter , I change the AMP setting , it clears up for awhile , but starts stuttering again if I change channels and go back to previous channel.

I change AMP setting , again and it stops.

Right now and for the past few weeks it has been stable enough to allow the AMP to work in the Clear mode.

I hear you guys and I know what you are going through , best of luck. smile.gif

Later ,

Gary 
post #2337 of 6702
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I'm not sure how a 3D calibration is done, taking the glasses into consideration. I know a few pro calibrators do it, but I don't know how they do it. Regarding the difference between the two lenses, I'm not sure if anything can or needs to be done. I'm not sure why there's a difference between the two lenses. I'd be curious to hear the explanation, since I noticed the same thing as you did, so there must be a technical reason for it. Is it just by mistake that the left lenses are a bit darker or have more tinting applied? Is there a reason for it or is it random and some don't have that issue? At any rate, I don't know if it's intended for a reason or not, but I doubt if there's anything a calibrator could do.

It can be proven that the left eye of the glasses is not tinted any darker than the right by using the same Bluetooth glasses to view an older model Samsung 3D set, as I have done. It seems to me that this problem could be caused by a timing imbalance between L/R frame switching in the TV itself. [in case you're wondering, I am an engineer who has worked with the internal workings of these types of active 3D systems before]. If timing (or more specifically, Left vs. Right duty factor) is the cause, then it is something that could probably be fixed through a firmware update. But first Samsung will need to recognize it as a problem that needs fixing.
post #2338 of 6702
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lewis. S View Post

I have been using the set every night for the past few days. I have watched HD content off Cable, Dune player and my Oppo 95 and the stuttering is completely gone. I have been able to keep the AMP setting on "CLEAR" (as Eagle_2 pointed out) and it works fine without stuttering.

I do have to tell you, the picture on this TV produces is AMAZING - I changed the settings as recommended in an earlier post and the picture is like looking through a window. We watched The Dark Knight (Batman 1) last night and the scene near the beginning where he is walking near the glacier is unbelievable.

Anyway I am still working through some nits (I hate that when you first turn on the TV you have this multi-menu screen, I am sure there is way to get rid of it, just haven't figured it out yet) but so far, other than the AMP (the auto motion program) I have no complaints

Do this to bypass the smarthub on start up,

Menu>smart features>on tv settings>autostart>off
post #2339 of 6702
Anyone run a game mode test on new fw yet? I'm intrigued...
post #2340 of 6702
What are the best settings to make the picture POP and achieve the soap opera effect look?
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