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Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread - Page 80

post #2371 of 6701
No game mode set yet but still working on it. The price drop was a huge plus which makes this set an even better choice!!
post #2372 of 6701
3D – I've tried my first 3D Movie on the F8000. The movie was Green Lantern and played on my Oppo BDP 103 via HDMI to Pioneer VSX 1123 receiver via HDMI to UN55F8000 TV. I had to set my Oppo for 3D output before the F8000 would see it was 3D and then set my F8000 to 3D mode. I had fun trying to figure that all out. I am wondering why is that the 3D effect would come on for a time than switch over to 2D for a time and then back to 3D, so it went back and forth throughout the movie. Is it the movie or my set up? How do I fix it?
post #2373 of 6701
Confused about film mode, what setting is best? ...it seems film mode is active on 1080i and not 720p, what does auto 1 and 2 do vs it being off ...I noticed that the ticker on the nfl network (being 1080i) while on auto 1 created combing on the text while auto 2 and off didn't ...I don't seem to understand wether it removes 3:2 pull down or adds it? Haven't tested it out with blu-ray which is 24fps vs 60fps on my cable box but am I wrong to assume it will be grayed out when 1080p content is on no matter the frame rate? ...was trying to google some info on it but just got more confused, does it add interpolation? I thought automotion plus does interpolation, perhaps the two conflict with each other with upconverted signal causing stutter? I recently switched my cable box to native and seemed to have corrected the little bit of stuttering I had, just wondering how film mode works and when it should come to play? Any info would be great, thanks!
Edited by CeazeTM - 8/18/13 at 6:11pm
post #2374 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by RadioWonder View Post

UN46F8000BF ... now $1,699.99... Very cool new price! smile.gif

Only $1499 on BB's website... I could not believe my eyes. In recent weeks I had decided to go for the 46F7500 to save a few hundred dollars, but now ordered the 8000. It's strange because the printed BB ad shows it at 1699. I had hoped afted the last promotion of the free soundbar/tv/blu ray player expired that maybe there would be a price drop smile.gif

Happy to join the 8000 club, thanks for all the great info here.
post #2375 of 6701
Ugh just noticed a dead pixel...it seems to be only half dead as only primary colors are noticable such as an all blue or red screen. When it goes to flesh tones or green then only half of the pixel is out. Man oh man just when I was completely happy with the set. Guess ill be calling samsung frown.gif
post #2376 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by MERKEY99 View Post

Ugh just noticed a dead pixel...it seems to be only half dead as only primary colors are noticable such as an all blue or red screen. When it goes to flesh tones or green then only half of the pixel is out. Man oh man just when I was completely happy with the set. Guess ill be calling samsung frown.gif

Did you purchase it through Video Only? Will they swap out the tv for another F8000?
You bought the F8000 and F9000 from them I believe? Did they charge you with a restocking fee when you returned the 9000?
post #2377 of 6701
I think thats the first thing I will try. I just picked it back up yesterday and My sales rep gets back on Wednesday so I will be contacting him first thing. No restocking fee charged but I have exhanged the first plasma zt for the 7100 then the 7100 had a dead pixel so I exhanged for the 8000 and then tried the 9000 then yesterday got the 8000 back and noticed the dead pixel this morning. I think if they say no they cant replace it and to talk to samsung it is becasue I have exchanged so many times. But I feel when spending 7000 on a tv before the new price drop, I should get a set without dead pixels. But thats the life of a lcd owner hahah
Edited by MERKEY99 - 8/19/13 at 11:18am
post #2378 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThetaD View Post

Only $1499 on BB's website... I could not believe my eyes. In recent weeks I had decided to go for the 46F7500 to save a few hundred dollars, but now ordered the 8000. It's strange because the printed BB ad shows it at 1699. I had hoped afted the last promotion of the free soundbar/tv/blu ray player expired that maybe there would be a price drop smile.gif

Happy to join the 8000 club, thanks for all the great info here.

Looks like it has been updated to $1699 on the website. It was still at $1499 earlier today. Guess I got lucky on this one.
post #2379 of 6701
@Clayhans

Only certain scenes in 3D movies are shot in 3D. Usually action scenes or visually intensive scenes are filmed in 3D. Talking scenes or archived footage and things of that nature will be 2D. Very few movies I'd imagine are 100% shot in 3D. It's incredibly expensive and unnecessary to have an entire movie shot in 3D so it's only used in certain scenes that would benefit from it.

@Merkey99

My first F8000 had weird tiny bubbles in the panel giving the appearance of dead pixels since the light couldn't travel through the separated layers. I noticed it after a couple hours of watching the TV. Went back to TigerDirect's store front the next day and exchanged it no problem, the guy didn't even scan the receipt, just looked at it to make sure the model numbers matched. And since TigerDirect has a warehouse, there were at least a dozen other 55" F8000's in stock so I knew exchanges would be easy. I meticulously checked for any blemishes on the second one and found none. Hopefully they are understanding and let you exchange.

And you said you tried the F9000, which is 4K. What size screen are you getting? Cause if you're getting 65" or higher, I'd imagine the 4K F9000 would be the better choice depending on how far you're sitting from the screen. I haven't been able to see the F9000 but it's full array backlit, so I'd imagine the black levels are better and perhaps it has a higher contrast than the edge lit F8000.
post #2380 of 6701
Can someone run a lag test if possible? I'd like to know solid numbers. If the time is down this tv is bought! smile.gif
post #2381 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

@Clayhans

Only certain scenes in 3D movies are shot in 3D. Usually action scenes or visually intensive scenes are filmed in 3D. Talking scenes or archived footage and things of that nature will be 2D. Very few movies I'd imagine are 100% shot in 3D. It's incredibly expensive and unnecessary to have an entire movie shot in 3D so it's only used in certain scenes that would benefit from it.

@Merkey99

My first F8000 had weird tiny bubbles in the panel giving the appearance of dead pixels since the light couldn't travel through the separated layers. I noticed it after a couple hours of watching the TV. Went back to TigerDirect's store front the next day and exchanged it no problem, the guy didn't even scan the receipt, just looked at it to make sure the model numbers matched. And since TigerDirect has a warehouse, there were at least a dozen other 55" F8000's in stock so I knew exchanges would be easy. I meticulously checked for any blemishes on the second one and found none. Hopefully they are understanding and let you exchange.

And you said you tried the F9000, which is 4K. What size screen are you getting? Cause if you're getting 65" or higher, I'd imagine the 4K F9000 would be the better choice depending on how far you're sitting from the screen. I haven't been able to see the F9000 but it's full array backlit, so I'd imagine the black levels are better and perhaps it has a higher contrast than the edge lit F8000.

I have tried the 65f9000 and did a small comparison with the f8000 I also have. The comparison is located on the f9000 thread. I have been going back and forth but at the 12' distance the UHD is not noticable where the extra 10" the 75" offers is very noticable. And unfortunately the f9000 is edge lite not full array.
post #2382 of 6701
Interesting. I could have sworn the review/preview I read said it was thicker because of it being full array back lit. Well anyways, I'm sorta anti 4K because there's no real 4K content readily available and that 4K only benefits on sizes larger than 65" which, believe it or not, very few people go that big in screen sizes. I believe OLED offers a superior viewing experience than LED 4K can do. There's way more to picture quality than just pure pixel count. I'd take superior contrast and lower black level and faster response time of OLED over 4K LED any day of the week.

I'll be interested in 4K once it's standardized on BluRay, HDMI 2.0 is mainstream, when TV providers start feeding 4K to customers (or at least some lossless 1080p which is superior to over compressed 4K - YouTube 4K is a good example of this. Seriously, watch a 4K video on YouTube and it's STILL inferior to lossless 1080p), and when OLED 4K sets are relatively affordable. Until then, I have my 55" F8000 to keep me satisfied until I'm living on my own and need a larger set (I'm 19, still in school).
post #2383 of 6701
Samsung uses word play to make it sound like a full array set but its just more local dimming involved. The blacks and colors were slightly poppier on the f9000 but the over all experience fore was nicer on the larger 75" set. And like you said the content is just not available to take advantage of a UHD set.
post #2384 of 6701
That and the future proof-ness of current 4K sets is questionable since most that I've seen aren't even natively fitted with HDMI 2.0. For most movies this is okay since you want 24fps but I'd want to PC game on it and 30fps is no good. For how much cheaper the F8000 is in comparison, I would choose it over any current 4K set at the moment. And I'm a bit of a sucker for the dynamic contrast settings. I prefer medium on this setting because it really helps the contrast without crushing shadow detail and it retains the accurate colors better than high does. I also like the color tone on cool because that increases the contrast on the F8000 as well and makes most content appear more life like than the warm tone for film based content like movies. I was watching Louie on FX and the downtown Manhattan daytime scenes were startlingly life like looking with the cool tone and dynamic contrast. I also watched Oblivion the other day and the close ups on the character's faces during the final scenes were incredible. Every time I watch anything on this set it continues to impress me.
Edited by DRN94 - 8/19/13 at 12:43pm
post #2385 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by MERKEY99 View Post

I think thats the first thing I will try. I just picked it back up yesterday and My sales rep gets back on Wednesday so I will be contacting him first thing. No restocking fee charged but I have exhanged the first plasma zt for the 7100 then the 7100 had a dead pixel so I exhanged for the 8000 and then tried the 9000 then yesterday got the 8000 back and noticed the dead pixel this morning. I think if they say no they cant replace it and to talk to samsung it is becasue I have exchanged so many times. But I feel when spending 7000 on a tv before the new price drop, I should get a set without dead pixels. But thats the life of a lcd owner hahah

Just got done talking to samsung about the dead pixel. They set me up with a local electronics tech who is ordering a new panel today. I expressed to both samsung and the repair company that I might still have a chance to return the tv for an exchange on wednesday and they said no problem and they would still order the panel just in case the return doesnt go through.

Im pretty happy with the customer service of samsung and the repair shop at this point. So either this Wednesday ill exchange my set or next monday get a new panel. smile.gif
post #2386 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

Only certain scenes in 3D movies are shot in 3D. Usually action scenes or visually intensive scenes are filmed in 3D. Talking scenes or archived footage and things of that nature will be 2D. Very few movies I'd imagine are 100% shot in 3D. It's incredibly expensive and unnecessary to have an entire movie shot in 3D so it's only used in certain scenes that would benefit from it.

Uh, not really true. The effect may not be equally obvious in every scene, but I assure you that ALL 3D films from major studios in the last 5 years or so are fully 3D from beginning to end (with only rare exception of certain scenes in very few movies for purely "effect" reasons). If you're not seeing it in the entire film, then there is a very good possibility that either you are experiencing a technical malfunction, or you may be one of the 10% of all people who have reduced (or zero) 3D perception.

@Clayhans: When you lose the 3D effect, does it look like your glasses have simply stopped working (resulting in a weird, blurry image)? If, on the other hand the problem appears to be movie and scene dependent, which 3D Blu Ray movie and scene looks 2D to you?
post #2387 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkaleita View Post

Uh, not really true. The effect may not be equally obvious in every scene, but I assure you that ALL 3D films from major studios in the last 5 years or so are fully 3D from beginning to end (with only rare exception of certain scenes in very few movies for purely "effect" reasons). If you're not seeing it in the entire film, then there is a very good possibility that either you are experiencing a technical malfunction, or you may be one of the 10% of all people who have reduced (or zero) 3D perception.

The only point I was trying to get across is that only few movies are actually shot with 3D stereoscopic cameras whereas most are altered digitally after the fact they were filmed in 2D. So there are going to be inconsistencies from scene to scene if that post production 3D is the case.
post #2388 of 6701
Well I took the plunge and now I am the proud owner of a UN55F8000. I had a UN60F7100, but I had a lot of issues with clouding, flashlighting and I just couldn't get rid of the overall yellow look of the picture no matter how much I tweaked the settings so I traded up. I have been doing some calibrating on the new TV and I have a quick question. Last night I was calibrating the TV and I turned all the lights off. I loaded up Netflix through the TV app and while it was loading a TV show the text was crisp and white and the background was completely black. It looked amazing. I hadn't made any changes and I went back to load another show. This time I could see some minor clouding and flashlighting? I know I'm not imaging things. Is there issues with apps and color settings? It seems like I lose some of the settings sometimes.
post #2389 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

@Clayhans

Only certain scenes in 3D movies are shot in 3D. Usually action scenes or visually intensive scenes are filmed in 3D. Talking scenes or archived footage and things of that nature will be 2D. Very few movies I'd imagine are 100% shot in 3D. It's incredibly expensive and unnecessary to have an entire movie shot in 3D so it's only used in certain scenes that would benefit from it.

Whoah! Sorry, but this is very much not true.

There are basically 3 types of 3D films currently:

1) Films shot completely in 3D: All live-action material involving actual filming is shot in true 3D using stereoscopic cameras. This includes "talking" scenes. Any CGI effects that are added are rendered in true stereoscopic 3D. The final completed film is 100% 3D.

2) Films converted in 3D: These are either newer films that were shot in 2D first (like Star Trek:Into Darkness and Pacific Rim) and then converted afterwards to 3D, or older films that were never originally intended to be seen in 3D (like Titanic). Early/cheaply-done 3D conversions look terrible, like Clash of the Titans for example. The best conversions however, like Jurassic Park, Titanic, and Pacific Rim, can look outstanding when converted, and may even look better than some natively-shot 3D films. The final completed film is 100% 3D.

3) Hybrid films: This is when a portion of the film was shot in 3D, and the rest was converted to 3D later in post-production. The CGI may be rendered in true 3D, or it may also be converted. Some films like Transformers 3 are hybrids, seamlessly blending true natively-shot 3D and converted footage. The final completed film is 100% 3D.

With older 3D films from the 50's through the 80's, 100% of the footage was shot in true native 3D, as it was impossible back then to convert films to 3D. These days, many films are still shot 100% true native 3D, and many are also hybrids or conversions. In the end, the finished film will always be 100% 3D. The quality may certainly vary, depending on many, many factors, but movies are not released "partly" in 3D. I'm not sure where you heard that "talking" scenes in films are 2D, but it's completely false.

There are a number of reasons why not all 3D looks great. There are many stereoscopic cameras out there, many developed specifically just for filming a particular movie. Different cameras have different strengths. The way the camera is adjusted and used during filming can make a huge difference in the final film. But the idea that "talking scenes" aren't filmed in 3D is very much false.
post #2390 of 6701
I know that a lot of you have been asking for settings in game mode so here we go. My settings aren't going to be for everyone, I play in a bright room with 5 windows and I like my video games to pop and be super unrealistic. Also I'm waiting on eagle to do the new update so he can post his response times, get on it eagle lol! Just doing the side to side reticle test it seems with my settings to be "about" the same as PC mode, but I would love to see some hard numbers from anyone with a CRT.

Picture preset Standard
Backlight 18
Contrast 98
Brightness: 34
Sharpness: 12
Color: 68 (yeah I know crazy right)
Tint: G50/G50

Dynamic Contrast Off
Black Tone Off
Flesh Tone 0
Color space Auto
White Balance unchanged
Gamma 0

Color Tone Standard
Digital Clean View Off
MPEG noise filter Off
HDMI Black level Normal (still a little foggy on this because I thought normal clipped blacks, but to me it seems to uncover more detail, i just compensate slightly by lowering the brightness, so I leave it on normal)
Smart LED Standard
Cinema Black On
post #2391 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post

Hi Guy`s ,

The AMP function on the F8000 is one of it`s many bugs ! eek.gif

The function works fine , but it does not work at all ! ____OK what the hell do I mean ?

It is source dependent , if the signal going to the F8000 is really off , then the AMP won`t work well or will not work at all.

If the source signal is nominal , then the "Clear" setting would be best as it would still allow for any fluctuation of nominal source signal.

I have Comcast , and I am not pleased with the delivery of there signal as it varies from day to day or even hour to hour.

Sometimes the ticker at the bottom of the screen on CNN or ESPN , will stutter , I change the AMP setting , it clears up for awhile , but starts stuttering again if I change channels and go back to previous channel.

I change AMP setting , again and it stops.

Right now and for the past few weeks it has been stable enough to allow the AMP to work in the Clear mode.

I hear you guys and I know what you are going through , best of luck. smile.gif

Later ,

Gary 

I agree - I think the only time AMP works stable at all is if the signal is 100% perfect. Cable/satellite feeds are rarely, if ever, perfect, between the broadcasts themselves, the re-transmission, and the conversions in the actual cable boxes and DVRs. So any time a signal isn't perfect regarding framerates, AMP goes nuts and stutters. Which makes MAP mostly useless, since it can't tolerate deviance in the signal. This was a poor decisions on Samsung's part - they should have designed AMP to tolerate cable signals better, since that's the nature of broadcast.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dkaleita View Post

It can be proven that the left eye of the glasses is not tinted any darker than the right by using the same Bluetooth glasses to view an older model Samsung 3D set, as I have done. It seems to me that this problem could be caused by a timing imbalance between L/R frame switching in the TV itself. [in case you're wondering, I am an engineer who has worked with the internal workings of these types of active 3D systems before]. If timing (or more specifically, Left vs. Right duty factor) is the cause, then it is something that could probably be fixed through a firmware update. But first Samsung will need to recognize it as a problem that needs fixing.

Very interesting. So then it's not the glasses. That being the case, I guess we can forget Samsung addressing it. I can't imagine them bothering with something like this when 99.5% of the owners would never notice. It should get addressed though by the sound of it, since it sounds from what you describe that it just needs a bit of adjustment in the 3D processing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CeazeTM View Post

Changed my cable box to native and the stuttering went from about 15% of the time to about 1% if that at all, and I'd say it's pretty much non existent but I do sometimes feel it would stutter but it's so minimal I feel I might have just made it up, lol ...I was reading that a 720p signal would get broken down and converted to 1080i in the cable box if set to 1080i instead of native and the TV would break that signal down and change it to 1080p, I guess making an extra step in the converted signal each time possibly creating artifacts and the TV perhaps was having a hard time dejuddering with so much artifacts, watching 720p and 1080i content and I see no stuttering at all, I could of gotten the details on that process wrong but the TV looks way smoother and better either way, I'm assuming this has been brought up before but just thought I'd bring it up again as this seems to be a fix for me, I have Time Warner in Los Angeles with a Motorola dcx3400 ...I use custom setting with deblur at 10 and dejudder at 4 with clear motion on and smart LED at standard ...anyway, so far so good been watching it for several hours and its smooth no stuttering maybe just right after switching channels and the TV changes from different resolutions only issue with native is the delay in doing that and the turn stb hts menu pops up, wish that could be turned off or had a longer delay. I never had issues with blu-ray stuttering I had the same settings on the set and it was the best content to watch, I love it.

I paid $2200 for my UN55F8000 a month ago, the Best Buy manager knew of the price drop and let me get the deal on it way early.

I tried switching my box to native a while ago, but I just couldn't stand it because evry time I went from a native 720p channel to a native 1080i channel, the tv had to switch over and it made surfing very annoying waiting for each channel to show up on-screen as the tv switched back and forth between 720p and 1080i inputs. I didn't even leave it on native long enough to notice if it fixed the stuttering issues for me because even my girlfriend found surfing very annoying with native selected.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AGuy01 View Post

Someone definitely needs to do some hard input lag tests with the latest update. I really hope they improved it. That would save me from buying a second television for gaming.

I've been meaning to run my tests again but I don't currently have access to a camera unfortunately.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CeazeTM View Post

Confused about film mode, what setting is best? ...it seems film mode is active on 1080i and not 720p, what does auto 1 and 2 do vs it being off ...I noticed that the ticker on the nfl network (being 1080i) while on auto 1 created combing on the text while auto 2 and off didn't ...I don't seem to understand wether it removes 3:2 pull down or adds it? Haven't tested it out with blu-ray which is 24fps vs 60fps on my cable box but am I wrong to assume it will be grayed out when 1080p content is on no matter the frame rate? ...was trying to google some info on it but just got more confused, does it add interpolation? I thought automotion plus does interpolation, perhaps the two conflict with each other with upconverted signal causing stutter? I recently switched my cable box to native and seemed to have corrected the little bit of stuttering I had, just wondering how film mode works and when it should come to play? Any info would be great, thanks!

This can be very confusing. I don't believe film mode uses interpolation. I always thought it affected how it handled 3:2 pulldown and interlaced signals. I think film mode 2 tends to work better for me but honestly it's rare I come across interlaced content because my cable box is set to output 720p. Modes 1 and 2 can definitely affect how scrolling text appears. I'd like to hear more about this myself.
Edited by eagle_2 - 8/20/13 at 7:01am
post #2392 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by eXcelon7574 View Post

Well I took the plunge and now I am the proud owner of a UN55F8000. I had a UN60F7100, but I had a lot of issues with clouding, flashlighting and I just couldn't get rid of the overall yellow look of the picture no matter how much I tweaked the settings so I traded up. I have been doing some calibrating on the new TV and I have a quick question. Last night I was calibrating the TV and I turned all the lights off. I loaded up Netflix through the TV app and while it was loading a TV show the text was crisp and white and the background was completely black. It looked amazing. I hadn't made any changes and I went back to load another show. This time I could see some minor clouding and flashlighting? I know I'm not imaging things. Is there issues with apps and color settings? It seems like I lose some of the settings sometimes.

The apps have their own picture settings separate from what you've configured yourself. Sorta like Game Mode, I found the app settings very limited on my old ES6100 so I'd assume they are the same on the F8000. The apps probably use Standard Mode with color tone standard/cool. They'll also have Smart LED on making the blacks a bit deeper. The contrast on color tone standard/cool is higher than with the warmer tones. So naturally it'll look punchier than say a calibrated movie mode would look. I personally like the punchier Standard Mode with color tone cool and dynamic contrast on medium since it keeps most colors accurate and doesn't squash shadow detail. And I sometimes don't mind a loss of a little shadow detail because realistically, the details you're trying to preserve are technically supposed to be darker than the native black level of the TV so everything seems grey and gloomy to me on calibrated settings that keep all the shadow detail. I was watching Louie and the city shots look incredibly life like on Standard Mode, color tone cool, dynamic contrast medium, Smart LED standard/high settings thanks to a much higher contrast in the picture but still close to accurate colors. These settings do not work for film based movies, but most TV shows and sports look better with Standard Mode I think. It's up to preference. I'll switch between my settings and movie mode every once in a while and the movie mode settings just don't do it for me on most content unless I'm watching a bluray movie. I'd just experiment until you find something you like. Some people here may take offense I don't like calibrated picture too much hah but I'm 19 and dumb. So maybe I'll learn why movie mode is soooo much better than the punchy contrast of my settings.
post #2393 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMSko View Post

eagle, any chance you could post or pm me your full settings? It looks like you have a critical eye and so I think your settings may get me a much better picture. Hopefully it's not too much of an inconvenience.

I've added links to my settings in my signature. They're based on Buzzard's excellent settings with a few tweaks to fine-tune the image and disable the screen turning off when the screen goes black.
post #2394 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by CeazeTM View Post

Confused about film mode, what setting is best? ...it seems film mode is active on 1080i and not 720p, what does auto 1 and 2 do vs it being off ...I noticed that the ticker on the nfl network (being 1080i) while on auto 1 created combing on the text while auto 2 and off didn't ...I don't seem to understand wether it removes 3:2 pull down or adds it? Haven't tested it out with blu-ray which is 24fps vs 60fps on my cable box but am I wrong to assume it will be grayed out when 1080p content is on no matter the frame rate? ...was trying to google some info on it but just got more confused, does it add interpolation? I thought automotion plus does interpolation, perhaps the two conflict with each other with upconverted signal causing stutter? I recently switched my cable box to native and seemed to have corrected the little bit of stuttering I had, just wondering how film mode works and when it should come to play? Any info would be great, thanks!

Film mode is ONLY used when deinterlacing 1080i or 480i signals. It has no effect on 720p/1080p content, since it's already deinterlaced to begin with.

Auto1 vs. Auto2 doesn't seem to make a noticeable difference on 99% of the 1080i cable programming I watch. I do think Auto2 is the better overall option for most 1080i cable TV channels, as it's better on anything with a ticker (my local channels are very "ticker happy" and almost always display news/weather updates every time it rains). I think Auto1 is better on paper for Film based content, but I can't really see a difference. I do notice jaggies on many of the tickers when using Auto1 however, so I leave it set to Auto2.

Hope this helps!
post #2395 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

The apps have their own picture settings separate from what you've configured yourself. Sorta like Game Mode, I found the app settings very limited on my old ES6100 so I'd assume they are the same on the F8000. The apps probably use Standard Mode with color tone standard/cool. They'll also have Smart LED on making the blacks a bit deeper. The contrast on color tone standard/cool is higher than with the warmer tones. So naturally it'll look punchier than say a calibrated movie mode would look. I personally like the punchier Standard Mode with color tone cool and dynamic contrast on medium since it keeps most colors accurate and doesn't squash shadow detail. And I sometimes don't mind a loss of a little shadow detail because realistically, the details you're trying to preserve are technically supposed to be darker than the native black level of the TV so everything seems grey and gloomy to me on calibrated settings that keep all the shadow detail. I was watching Louie and the city shots look incredibly life like on Standard Mode, color tone cool, dynamic contrast medium, Smart LED standard/high settings thanks to a much higher contrast in the picture but still close to accurate colors. These settings do not work for film based movies, but most TV shows and sports look better with Standard Mode I think. It's up to preference. I'll switch between my settings and movie mode every once in a while and the movie mode settings just don't do it for me on most content unless I'm watching a bluray movie. I'd just experiment until you find something you like. Some people here may take offense I don't like calibrated picture too much hah but I'm 19 and dumb. So maybe I'll learn why movie mode is soooo much better than the punchy contrast of my settings.

It's really frustrating that the apps do have their own picture settings. Netflix and amazon won't let you turn on cinema black. Smartled is fine but not cinema black. It has to be a software glitch. There's no way that the tv can stream, process video, and do smart led, but not cinema black. I've just started using my ps3 again for netflix and amazon because the PQ is so much better. So now I have a smart tv that I'm not using the smart part smile.gif
post #2396 of 6701
Apparently samsung didn't list "improved game mode" in thier iprovement list. Guess it falls under PQ.
Haven't seen this info on here yet so:

Upgrade File(USB type) (Firmware) (ver.1110.1)

1.This firmware is for TV Model(s): LED F7450/F7500/F7550/F8000
2.The version is 1110.1
3.This firmware update will improve the following:

- Solves Network Connection issue with Wireless router.

- Solves Brightness Popping issue.

- Improves picture quality.

- Supports more MSO in OnTV feature.

- Enhances Voice Recognition feature


Source: http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/UN60F8000BFXZA
post #2397 of 6701
I don't think your color setting is crazy at all.

I posted last week asking a question regarding the color saturation on this set.

I have noticed on my older tv's the color setting from the standard 50 and up has a more dramatic effect than the f8000.

F8000 seems to saturate the colors much less than my other tv.

I have my setting at color 65. Even when i bump it up to 80 to 100 it still doesn't look so saturated where it's just not an option.

Have you noticed your f8000 being less saturated?

thanks
post #2398 of 6701
I have an opportunity to get a F8000 instead of the F7100. How is the UN65F8000 better than the UN65F7100?
post #2399 of 6701
Thanks Eagle_2 and jkozlow3 for the response, appreciate the help! I came across this link that seems to have film mode explained but I am still a little confused:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/secrets-q-a/secrets-home-theater-q-a/eliminating-jaggies-in-football.html

"You can also try different settings of the Film Mode control (also under Picture Options in the Picture menu). This control determines how the TV's video processor deinterlaces 1080i from film and video sources. Setting this control to "Off" forces the processor to deinterlace in video mode, which is what you want for sports captured at 1080i. However, this setting does not correctly deinterlace anything captured at 24 frames per second and then interlaced to 1080i, which includes virtually all movies and, as far as I know, most scripted primetime programs.

The Film Mode settings labeled "Auto1" and "Auto2" automatically detect the 3:2 interlaced film cadence and, if present, deinterlace it accordingly. If you're watching a football game and a commercial comes on that was shot at 24 fps and then interlaced to 1080i, setting the Film Mode to Auto1 or Auto2 will cause the processor to switch to film-mode deinterlacing, then back to video mode when the game comes back. It takes a second or two to make the switch each time, during which you might see excessive jaggies.

What's the difference between Auto1 and Auto2? When the signal is a mix of film- and video-based content—say, a movie overlaid with a DVD menu—Auto1 defaults to film mode, while Auto2 defaults to video mode. Otherwise, they behave identically."

Totally different than what the Samsung tech at cnet had said, he said it only is applied to 480i content, but I feel his information is outdated since I do notice a difference with ticker text scrolling when auto1 enabled, so I am confused as to exactly what it's doing ...I'm thinking of just leaving it off I don't know.
post #2400 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by ag.jase View Post

I don't think your color setting is crazy at all.

I posted last week asking a question regarding the color saturation on this set.

I have noticed on my older tv's the color setting from the standard 50 and up has a more dramatic effect than the f8000.

F8000 seems to saturate the colors much less than my other tv.

I have my setting at color 65. Even when i bump it up to 80 to 100 it still doesn't look so saturated where it's just not an option.

Have you noticed your f8000 being less saturated?

thanks

I have noticed my tv being less saturated than previous samsungs. I don't really mind, because it always looks good, like you said even cranking up to 80 or more doesn't get too crazy. On my older tvs, you could make people look orange or red skinned. True this tv doesn't "pop" like some by being over saturated with neon grass, but the color is brilliant and accurate. I have grown to like it better than previous samsung tvs. Many calibrators on this thread have mentioned that the default color algorithm without any tweaks is one of the most accurate ones they've seen. This tv doesn't require much color tweaking at all to bring it to ISF.
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