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Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread - Page 83

post #2461 of 6689
Quote:
Originally Posted by lakaw View Post

I watched TV for a bit last night and had to "OK" out of the pop-up several times. Toward the end of my TV session, I no longer got the pop-up. Maybe it has a counter that cancels the pop-up after a certain number of pop-ups? I'll report back if the pop-up comes back.

I still find it odd that the OEM touch remote is not recognized by the Playbar, but the secondary remote sent to me by Samsung is.
I believe the oem remote is a bluetooth remote only? So if sonos playbar is controlled by IR...it wouldn't work. Anytime you try and change the volume with the original remote it sounds like its the TV remote is trying to change the tv volume..not sonos. I use a Harmony remote, so I do not have universal remote set up...anytime I use the OEM remote volume I see the same setting. Its odd though because when you set up universal remote on the TV...I am able to control my AV Receiver voume. So maybe OEM remote does have IR and your universal remote is set up incorrectly? Maybe it doesn't support Sonos Playbar? (Really curious to hear how you like the soundbar..my friend has his whole house setup as sonos..the only model he is missing is the playbar.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GunmetalR56 View Post

So is the general consensus that 1110 made the picture worse (potentially to improve lag) or only a few folks seeing this?
I certainly didn't notice this but I'm not overly picky...as long as its close smile.gif I did just try to turn my sharpness up a little bit though.
post #2462 of 6689
Quote:
Originally Posted by GunmetalR56 View Post

So is the general consensus that 1110 made the picture worse (potentially to improve lag) or only a few folks seeing this?

I'll get to take a look at mine this weekend but I'm a bit bummed. I'd meant to turn off auto update and forgot so 1110 is here to stay.

I haven't noticed a difference myself, but there are always a lot of placebo effects after each update where people post about differences that they *think* they see. Not to say that there aren't any differences, but I'm amazed that someone can tell a difference in how sharp/soft the picture is without a side-by-side comparison using the same exact model and the same viewing content being displayed on both displays simultaneously. That's an amazing ability some people seem to have!
post #2463 of 6689
Placebo Effects !

Yup , you might be right but , 1109 was more stable on more channels , at least for me and my Comcast delivery system.

As far as hooking up a sound bar , why ? , must be in a large room.

My F8000 is a bed room tv and the speakers sound fine.

Getting back to the bluetooth sound bar , when you hookup an external sound bar do you have it showing up in the source list at the top of the screen ?
If so , maybe you can choose settings and have more options on how to control it , just a thought !

OK___ , have fun biggrin.gif

Later ,

Gary 
post #2464 of 6689
My PQ keeps getting better and better! smile.gif
Of course it could be the several tweaks I have done... cool.gif
I have found AVS Forums to be very hostel to people who post tweaks,so I just stay silent... wink.gif
post #2465 of 6689
Hi RW ,

It must be all the tweaking you have done. smile.gif

Unfortunately I still have Comcast , and all the tweaking in the world won`t help !! LOL

I also have Amazon Prime , and have found it to be far superior to Comcast HD wink.gif

Even SD Crackle for free is better !!

Hostel , this forum , no way !! LOL wink.gifeek.gif

Later biggrin.gif

Gary 
post #2466 of 6689
How to I send audio from a PC when using DVI-to-HDMI cable? Video works fine, but there's no socket labelled "DVI Audio In" on this TV it seems.

Even though Samsung's site claims there is: http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs/UN60F8000BFXZA-specs

Trying to connect audio to red/white AV1 connection didn't work.
post #2467 of 6689
Quote:
Originally Posted by 51343 View Post

How to I send audio from a PC when using DVI-to-HDMI cable? Video works fine, but there's no socket labelled "DVI Audio In" on this TV it seems.

Even though Samsung's site claims there is: http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs/UN60F8000BFXZA-specs

Trying to connect audio to red/white AV1 connection didn't work.

I used an optical cable for audio when connecting my PC to the TV.
post #2468 of 6689
Just received my new UN55F8000. Being lazy and not wanting to look through all 83 pages of posts, does anyone have some good settings for this tv? I've tried the ones Consumer Reports recommends, but they seem a bit too bright and skin colors are a bit off.
post #2469 of 6689
Quote:
Originally Posted by adgrimes View Post

I believe the oem remote is a bluetooth remote only? So if sonos playbar is controlled by IR...it wouldn't work. Anytime you try and change the volume with the original remote it sounds like its the TV remote is trying to change the tv volume..not sonos. I use a Harmony remote, so I do not have universal remote set up...anytime I use the OEM remote volume I see the same setting. Its odd though because when you set up universal remote on the TV...I am able to control my AV Receiver voume. So maybe OEM remote does have IR and your universal remote is set up incorrectly? Maybe it doesn't support Sonos Playbar? (Really curious to hear how you like the soundbar..my friend has his whole house setup as sonos..the only model he is missing is the playbar.
I certainly didn't notice this but I'm not overly picky...as long as its close smile.gif I did just try to turn my sharpness up a little bit though.

I agree. I didn't notice the picture any worse. The sharpness was just dialed down a little. Looks like samsung realists their sharpness was ridiculously high and rather than reduce the number dr 50 for the default to expose their error they just quietly reduces the scale and kept the number lol. The only picture that should be effected by the update is game mode. I can barely comment on this since I could only stand to use PC mode due to input lag. Game mode looks way better than PC mode now with what i can tell a similar response time, but i haven't played online yet. The picture in fame mode is not as good as regular, but it never is and isn't supposed to be. Really it can't because these tvs use sophisticated software to make the panel look better than the naked specs of the screen.

Edit sorry quoted a different post on pq of 1110. My iphone glitched and chose this ine instead. Too lazy to change it now
Edited by BassMonger1 - 8/24/13 at 5:43am
post #2470 of 6689
I have noticed colors a little less vivid. And blacks now are a little more shallow. We will see what some tweaking will do in the picture settings.
post #2471 of 6689
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post

Hi RW ,

It must be all the tweaking you have done. smile.gif

Unfortunately I still have Comcast , and all the tweaking in the world won`t help !! LOL

I also have Amazon Prime , and have found it to be far superior to Comcast HD wink.gif

Even SD Crackle for free is better !!

Hostel , this forum , no way !! LOL wink.gifeek.gif

Later biggrin.gif

Gary 

Not sure how it is now,but many years ago I posted in the "Tweaks and Do-It-Yourself" area and got verbally beat-up so I just stay clear... LOL... rolleyes.gif

Sorry to hear about Comcast...
post #2472 of 6689
I found that the image after calibration is very "as the director intended". I like it because I can see a lot of the shadow detail and its close to the intended D6500K. It will just take me a while to get used to since the picture is so dim and I'm used to near torch mode settings. For video games I still like to crank it up similar to dynamic, but in game mode.



Here's what a $250 calibration from best buy gets you. I have the UN60F8000 with a TS01 panel. Enjoy.


Note: although the ISF calibrator set the backlight to 20, he turned the Eco sensor on for me for CAL-DAY with a minimum backlight of 8. Since I have a lot of windows, this will automatically swing between 40-60fL depending on the brightness in the room.
post #2473 of 6689
Interesting. I'll try these when I get home. The gamma seems too low though at -3 but I'll have to see it for myself.

I would say that the Dynamic preset KILLS shadow detail. It puts the black tone to darker or darkest which pretty much kills any dark tone detail. I recommend viewing Standard Mode with Dynamic Contrast on High. It'll look like Dynamic but will keep shadow detail. Black Tone should be left off at all times.
post #2474 of 6689
Here are my settings from the Best Buy calibration. I didn't get a print out of error before/error after nor a spreadsheet of color gamut/gamma. The settings emailed to me are different from what was left on the TV : / and my calibrator was using a "guide" on his laptop. He calibrated Night/Day and Movie, and was very surprised I had Night/Day mode already enabled.

CAL NIGHT
BL 9
Contrast 89
Brite 46
Sharp 18
Color 46
Tint 49/51
Advanced
Off, Off, 0, Off
Color Space Auto
White Balance
24, 25, 25, 5, 25, 14
10P On
1 1 0 0
2 1 0 1
3 0 0 0
4 1 0 -1
5 1 0 0
6 2 0 0
7 0 0 0
8 0 0 0
9 0 0 0
10 0 0 0
Gamma 0
Pic Options
Warm2
Off, Off
Custom Blur 10 Judder 5
Smart LED OFF
Cinema Blck OFF

CAL DAY
BL 13
Contrast 92
Brite 45
Sharp 20
Color 48
Tint 50/50
Advanced
Off, Off, 0, Off
Color Space Auto
White Balance
24, 25, 25, 5, 25, 13
10P On
1 1 0 0
2 1 0 1
3 0 0 0
4 1 0 -1
5 1 0 0
6 2 0 0
7 0 0 0
8 0 0 0
9 0 0 0
10 0 0 0
Gamma -1
Pict Settings
Warm2
Off, Off
Custom
Smart LED OFF
Cinema Blck OFF

The calibrator said that leaving cinema black and smart LED on will crush blacks. Here is the email I received with the settings. Notice they are different from the above which were copied directly from the TV. The calibrator set Color Space to "custom" but did not adjust anything, just left it at defaults. I used the WOW BD and looked through the blue filter; changing color space from custom to auto matched the bars up much better.

Email
Picture Mode: Cal-Day for Day and (Cal-Night for Night)
Back/Cell Light: 13 (9)
Contrast: 92 (89)
Brightness: 45 (46)
Sharpness: 20 (18)
Color: 48 (46)
Tint (G/R): G50/R50 (G49/R51)

Screen Adjustment:
Picture Size: Screen fit for HD, 16:9 for SD channels to remove white lines at the top of the picture

Select Advanced Settings
Postion: Leave at Defaults

Advacned Settings

Black Tone: Off (off)
Dynamic Contrast: low (off)
Gamma: -1
Exppert Pattern: Off
RGB Only Mode: Off
Color Space: custom

White Balance
R-Offset: 24 (24)
G-Offset: 25 (25)
B-Offset: 25 (25)
R-Gain: 05 (05)
G-Gain: 25 (25)
B-Gain: 13 (14)

10P White Balance: Off (on)
Flesh Tone:0
Edge Enhancement: n
Motion Lighting: Off
xvYCC: Leave at Defaults if available.
LED MOtion Enhancer: Off

Press Return and then select Picture Options

Color Tone: Warm 2 (Warm 2)
Digital Noise Filter: Auto
MPEG Noise Filter: Auto
HDMI Black Level: Normal
Film Mode: Off
Auto Motion Plus: Standard or clear

I've noticed the Best Buy calibrators jack the sharpness up a lot. Previous posters calibrator put the sharpness at 28. When I tested with the hyperbolic and sinusoidal zone plates anything over 10 introduced bad aliasing. I also noticed a thin greed line while calibrating with the hyperbolic zone plate. The line passes through the top and middle pattern, but not the bottom. Has anyone noticed something like that?


On another note, Best Buy gave me a 300 dollar credit 40+ days out of the return period. Thank you AVS forums! Now I'm thinking of going bigger smile.gif
Edited by oreb - 8/24/13 at 12:41pm
post #2475 of 6689
How do you enable night and day mode? Do you notice a large difference after BB calibrated your set or was it a waste of money?
post #2476 of 6689
Got my 46" version setup today.

Cinema Black does not appear to work with 4:3 window boxed content? We watch a lot of 4:3 shows (kids!), and it would be nice. I liked how well it worked with 2.35:1 material that I tested with.
post #2477 of 6689
Quote:
Originally Posted by MERKEY99 View Post

How do you enable night and day mode? Do you notice a large difference after BB calibrated your set or was it a waste of money?

The first page of this forum will tell you how to enable cal day and night. I am a Priemer silver member for best buy so the calibration was free, but had I spent the $250 I would say for me personally That no it's not worth it. I am competent enough to get about the same settings myself in movie mode with my spears and munsell calibration disc ( in the calibration chart for my before he used dynamic which resets itself btw after enabling cal day and night, so beware). If you copy my settings, or Oreb's, or buzzards (or many others in this forum) you will not get a perfect calibration but maybe a 90% as good picture with 0% of the cost. If you're not sure how to do all that or don't want to eye ball it a little to your liking for your own set, then get the calibration.
post #2478 of 6689
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

Interesting. I'll try these when I get home. The gamma seems too low though at -3 but I'll have to see it for myself.

I would say that the Dynamic preset KILLS shadow detail. It puts the black tone to darker or darkest which pretty much kills any dark tone detail. I recommend viewing Standard Mode with Dynamic Contrast on High. It'll look like Dynamic but will keep shadow detail. Black Tone should be left off at all times.

I agree. I was a little surprised by the negative 3 gamma, it seems a little dark to me, and he didn't use the 10p white balance either. Sometimes I wonder if he half-@$$ed it lol. If I want a popping picture balanced with decent shadow detail for bluray I will usually use standard like you and do:

Picture preset: Standard
Backlight 19
Contrast 98
Brightness: 47
Sharpness: 19
Color: 68
Tint: G50/G50
Picture size: Screen Fit
Dynamic Contrast Medium
Black Tone Off
Flesh Tone 0
Color space Auto
Gamma 0
Color tone Standard
Digital Clean View Off
MPEG noise filter Off
HDMI Black level Normal
Auto Motion Plus Off
Cinema Black On
Smart LED Standard

Looks great with bluray and games like crysis 3 for ps3 (although I modify them a little for game mode)
post #2479 of 6689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam S View Post

Got my 46" version setup today.

Cinema Black does not appear to work with 4:3 window boxed content? We watch a lot of 4:3 shows (kids!), and it would be nice. I liked how well it worked with 2.35:1 material that I tested with.

It is disappointing watching 4:3, but the technology is such that it can't.
post #2480 of 6689
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassMonger1 View Post

The first page of this forum will tell you how to enable cal day and night. I am a Priemer silver member for best buy so the calibration was free, but had I spent the $250 I would say for me personally That no it's not worth it. I am competent enough to get about the same settings myself in movie mode with my spears and munsell calibration disc ( in the calibration chart for my before he used dynamic which resets itself btw after enabling cal day and night, so beware). If you copy my settings, or Oreb's, or buzzards (or many others in this forum) you will not get a perfect calibration but maybe a 90% as good picture with 0% of the cost. If you're not sure how to do all that or don't want to eye ball it a little to your liking for your own set, then get the calibration.

Thank you!
post #2481 of 6689
Quote:
Do you notice a large difference after BB calibrated your set or was it a waste of money?

I had a free calibration as Silver Premier and it's definitely not worth the money! at least for me. The calibration took less than an hour and a half but from what the calibrator showed me it should take all day or at least a few hours. They have to take multiple pictures with this colormeter camera that sits on your screen, so for example if you turn gamma or blue gain down you have to take about 10-20 pictures to get a full chart of what the result is at that setting. Then you have to go back and adjust brightness or contrast, and you will get a different result, and back and forth like that until you get perfect result. The pictures aren't full burst either, they take TIME. But again these guys are "pros" I guess so they know what they're doing and what to tweak. I know if I attempted something like that it would literally take me weeks to get it tweaked perfectly.

I'm not too sure if there is a large difference. I may actually go back to my old settings. I was using Buzzards settings from post 303/696 and when the calibrator showed me the results before calibration there was too much blue. The funny thing is the calibrator didn't show me the after results. He was doing Color Space and I had to take a call so I walked into another room for about 15-20 minutes. When I came back he said "you're good to go" and showed me the difference between his settings and the dynamic settings and focused on the blacks. I told him blacks are always crushed on dynamic but I guess that was supposed to be the "demo" so I say ok. After he left I check the color space settings and notice they're turned to custom but everything is left at default> WTF. Before I took the call it was taking him nearly 10 minutes just to do one color space setting. I also think my job was rushed. If you look at the above settings from the email I posted you will notice they say 10P white balance ON but don't even give the settings. Calibrator didn't write them down. If you want an ISF calibration get one from a pro that's been doing this for decades and not Best Buy. There is a thread on AVS forums which has reputable calibrators in your state. I'm not sure how much they charge but I know that for 250 you can buy your own CalMan software lol. I'm actually going to buy a meter and software and start learning. Very interested in it now.
post #2482 of 6689
I'm really confused about the contrast ratio of this TV. From my perspective, the contrast is GREAT. But I've been looking at all sorts of reviews and some get an ANSI contrast of 2100:1 and others get up to 3000:1 and others say 2400:1. Most of the reviews don't even give the contrast ratio. Some say the black level sucks, others say it's awesome. What is the truth? To my eye at Best Buy, the F8000 had the deepest black of practically all the TV's on display, it also appeared to be the brightest. It's really confusing. I just wish I could find some chart of measured contrast ratios of various TV's. Perhaps someone here knows more about the contrast ratio of the F8000. I can't find any consistency in this area. All I want to know is if the F8000 has a higher contrast than most other LEDs. To my eyes it looks stunning but apparently to reviewers' instruments, the contrast ratio is "good".

I have a TN panel (Samsung S23A950D and S23A750D) as desktop monitors that are awesome, but they're not as bright as the F8000 and the F8000 beats it in black levels. So surely the F8000 can't be as bad as this guy says:

http://www.televisioninfo.com/content/samsung-f8000-review/the-science
http://www.televisioninfo.com/content/samsung-f8000-review

This is by far the most negative review of the F8000 I've read. Did this guy just suck at calibrating and got everything wrong or is he right in saying "Contrast purists won't be as happy, though: The F8000 does not have impressive black levels compared to other TVs, both LED and plasma"???

Maybe I'm just feeling a little buyer's remorse. But to me, the blacks looks exceedingly deep, even at night. And the bright whites are blinding. If the contrast ratio I'm looking at is only "good" then I don't know what to say. And CNET claims that the F8000 is the second best LED TV of ALL TIME. So how can that be if the contrast numbers are "good." Maybe the color accuracy and gamma makes up for the only "good" contrast? Or maybe the contrast is only "good" in comparison to the best plasmas. I don't know. Please, someone enlighten me!
post #2483 of 6689
Hello Guys,

I finally pulled the trigger and picked up the Samsung F8000 and a few pieces of Hometheater gear to start. My brother helped me pick out my audio gear but this is what I got

Samsung F8000 65inch
Paradigm Titan Monitors
Paradigm Center
Pioneer VSX 1122

When I have enough money I will buy the towers and move the bookshelves to the back (well thats how he explained it) I was going to get a nice Polk audio setup from best buy but he didnt let. I haven't messed with any setting or done any firmware upgrade. Here is a few screen shots from my crappy phone.


post #2484 of 6689
Looks nice man! Don't read my pessimistic post lol I'm just confused with the technical aspects of the contrast ratio.

I'm extremely satisfied with my 55" F8000. To my eyes, the contrast and black level is excellent, and the picture quality is just stunning. Watching BluRay movies on this set blows your mind!
post #2485 of 6689
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

I'm really confused about the contrast ratio of this TV. From my perspective, the contrast is GREAT. But I've been looking at all sorts of reviews and some get an ANSI contrast of 2100:1 and others get up to 3000:1 and others say 2400:1. Most of the reviews don't even give the contrast ratio. Some say the black level sucks, others say it's awesome. What is the truth? To my eye at Best Buy, the F8000 had the deepest black of practically all the TV's on display, it also appeared to be the brightest. It's really confusing. I just wish I could find some chart of measured contrast ratios of various TV's. Perhaps someone here knows more about the contrast ratio of the F8000. I can't find any consistency in this area. All I want to know is if the F8000 has a higher contrast than most other LEDs. To my eyes it looks stunning but apparently to reviewers' instruments, the contrast ratio is "good".

I have a TN panel (Samsung S23A950D and S23A750D) as desktop monitors that are awesome, but they're not as bright as the F8000 and the F8000 beats it in black levels. So surely the F8000 can't be as bad as this guy says:

http://www.televisioninfo.com/content/samsung-f8000-review/the-science
http://www.televisioninfo.com/content/samsung-f8000-review

This is by far the most negative review of the F8000 I've read. Did this guy just suck at calibrating and got everything wrong or is he right in saying "Contrast purists won't be as happy, though: The F8000 does not have impressive black levels compared to other TVs, both LED and plasma"???

Maybe I'm just feeling a little buyer's remorse. But to me, the blacks looks exceedingly deep, even at night. And the bright whites are blinding. If the contrast ratio I'm looking at is only "good" then I don't know what to say. And CNET claims that the F8000 is the second best LED TV of ALL TIME. So how can that be if the contrast numbers are "good." Maybe the color accuracy and gamma makes up for the only "good" contrast? Or maybe the contrast is only "good" in comparison to the best plasmas. I don't know. Please, someone enlighten me!

That is the only website that says it has a bad contrast ratio. It even says that the ES has better blacks than the F series which is a straight lie. I've owned both and this has way better blacks, in fact it's going to have the best blacks if any LED with the exception of full array and maybe sonys top tier edge lit local dimmer. But don't take it from me, take ot from CNET:
"Black level: The UNF8000 delivers the best performance in this category of any edge-lit Samsung LED TV yet, surpassing last year's ES8000 and its predecessors by a wide margin. That said it's still not quite as good as Sony's best edge-lit sets, namely the HX850 and W900A."

Let your eyes be the judge, no matter what any numbers say these blacks rock.
post #2486 of 6689
Oh my gosh, thank you! That guy claiming the ES8000 had a higher contrast and lower black level sounded INSANE to me after seeing it in person at the store. I'm glad I'm not going crazy. The F8000 is KICKASS!

CNET said it maxed at 127 footlamperts which is 435 cd/m^2. Also that the blacks are around .001 footlamperts on an all black screen and .0049 footlamperts with the ANSI. That makes the contrast ratio really high. They maxed out the backlight on Dynamic mode when they got the 127 footlamperts reading so I don't know what the black level is on those settings but CNET did say it retained the blacks on higher light output better than the Sony did, so the contrast perhaps is higher on the Samsung maxed out than on the Sony W900A. But I'm not too knowledgeable on how the contrast ratio numbers work so I don't know.
Edited by DRN94 - 8/24/13 at 8:30pm
post #2487 of 6689
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post


Maybe I'm just feeling a little buyer's remorse. But to me, the blacks looks exceedingly deep, even at night. And the bright whites are blinding. If the contrast ratio I'm looking at is only "good" then I don't know what to say. And CNET claims that the F8000 is the second best LED TV of ALL TIME. So how can that be if the contrast numbers are "good." Maybe the color accuracy and gamma makes up for the only "good" contrast? Or maybe the contrast is only "good" in comparison to the best plasmas. I don't know. Please, someone enlighten me!

You've probably noticed a bit of cloudiness, especially around the left and right edges, when the content you are watching fades to near black. Unless an LED LCD is full array backlighted such as a Sharp Elite (read expensive to manufacture) it's going to happen - no exceptions. If a portion of that cloudiness falls beneath the calibration meter the MLL (minimum light level) at that point will read higher than the average MLL throughout the entire screen. Contrast ratio is white level divided by black level. White level on an LED can be set just about anywhere you want it so for this example I'm using about 30 FtL (foot Lamberts) which is an okay amount of max brightness for viewing in a dark room.

Take all the displays in the world, set max luminance at 30 FtL, and the ONLY thing left to determine contrast ratio is the MLL. The MLL of the F8000 in a non cloudy area is about .007 FtL, therefore, 30/.007=4286. This is sequential, or on/off contrast. A more important measure is ANSI, or simultaneous contrast, where both black AND white is on the display at the same time as this much more relates to real world viewing. As you can see in the following screen shot, the F8000 is much better than the report you read.

The reason "near" is in red above is because on the F8000, when full black is called for, the display shuts down the pixels entirely for a fake MLL of 0. I use a black pattern with one white pixel illuminated in each of the four corners to keep the panel alive - it's the only way to know what the true MLL is on this model.

On another note, some of the calibration settings in this thread are showing Color south of 50 yet the CMS (color management system) has been set to Auto instead of being actually calibrated in Custom. The Custom mode ELIMINATES the need for Color & Tint (hue) adjustments with rare exceptions, the last glaring one being the Panasonic VT30 plasmas from 2011. Reading between the lines you might glean that if your professional calibrator didn't calibrate the 2 point grayscale (white balance) 10 point grayscale/gamma, AND the CMS, your set isn't fully calibrated. Your calibrator was working on the clock instead of quality.

A long as I'm on my high horse (US Marine on the attack) the correct setting for Sharpness on all recent Samsungs is 0. If you want your Samsung to "look" more sharp without screwing up the picture get your credit card out and buy a Darblet. cool.gif


Some of the numbers in various sections of the display vary because I was testing a variety of setting options but you can see that the contrast ratio is just fine. A day mode of, say, 55 FtL yields a CR of 7857. No problem with that.



Re: your comment about plasmas, yes, that's the way it is. My VT50 outputs max luminance at 50 FtL and an MLL of .002 = CR 25,000. You can replicate this with a Sharp Elite LED but that model has plenty of other problems. I wouldn't own one - but I do own an F8000....
Edited by buzzard767 - 8/25/13 at 7:00am
post #2488 of 6689
Yeah I keep my sharpness for my PC on 0. My TV provider over compresses the hell out of the HD stream so I put it at 20 or so for my cable box. And putting on PC Mode will reveal any clouding because PC Mode disables ALL dimming and the blacks are as high as they'll ever get on the F8000 when in PC Mode. I can say that I have NO clouding and only small colored light bleed on the top left and bottom right corners. Those light bleeds are only noticeable when looking at an extreme off angle. They're virtually invisible during normal viewing.

I'm extremely satisfied with the picture quality on my F8000, particularly during the day. It's really hard to imagine how much better Plasma's look. I just don't like their bulkiness in comparison to the edge lit F8000. I'm also a sucker for bright poppy picture over dimmer plasmas so maybe I just haven't seen a proper plasma in person to really appreciate how much better picture quality modern plasmas offer. I'm only 19 so I only really need one TV if that right now. Maybe when I'm living on my own and if OLED is not main stream and affordable yet, I'll look into plasmas for a cinema room.
Edited by DRN94 - 8/24/13 at 9:44pm
post #2489 of 6689
Hi Guy`s ,

Now I need help eek.gif

My YouTube app is seriously messed up , here is what`s going wrong:

I launch the YouTube app , and yes I am signed in , I watch a video , but the return button on the Samsung remote ( touch or regular ) does not work.

The only way to exit a video , is to exit the entire app.

A few days ago , all was fine , I could watch anything and use either the down arrow or the return button , but now if I use the down arrow , it just brings up a list of related content , and no way to exit that screen. I have to exit the app and start from scratch.

Any help would be gratefully appreciated , thanks in advance !

Gary 
post #2490 of 6689
Quote:
This is by far the most negative review of the F8000 I've read. Did this guy just suck at calibrating and got everything wrong or is he right in saying "Contrast purists won't be as happy, though: The F8000 does not have impressive black levels compared to other TVs, both LED and plasma"???

I'm not sure if you're following the F7100 owners thread but there's been some back and fourth regarding Television Infos contrast ratio results for the F8000 and F7100 on pages 65-69. I think their numbers are skewed and don't think they follow a certain calibration standard when testing these TV's.

I'm really considering upgrading to a bigger size since the price drop but afraid I'll get some bad panel with a dead pixel or banding or clouding!!! I have a good panel and after reading about the "Best Buy return ban" I'm weary of exchanging. I would exchange and they would treat me like a criminal "ok you're banned for 90 days" then I get my bigger panel delivered and notice a plethora of problems and I'll have to go through the same song and dance with Samsung like I did with the ES. What to do!? Does anyone know if the "return ban" applies to exchanges?

I'm wondering if Labor Day will see a price drop beyond what it is now.
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