Originally Posted by DRN94
Maybe I'm just feeling a little buyer's remorse. But to me, the blacks looks exceedingly deep, even at night. And the bright whites are blinding. If the contrast ratio I'm looking at is only "good" then I don't know what to say. And CNET claims that the F8000 is the second best LED TV of ALL TIME. So how can that be if the contrast numbers are "good." Maybe the color accuracy and gamma makes up for the only "good" contrast? Or maybe the contrast is only "good" in comparison to the best plasmas. I don't know. Please, someone enlighten me!
You've probably noticed a bit of cloudiness, especially around the left and right edges, when the content you are watching fades to near
black. Unless an LED LCD is full array backlighted such as a Sharp Elite (read expensive to manufacture) it's going to happen - no exceptions. If a portion of that cloudiness falls beneath the calibration meter the MLL (minimum light level) at that point will read higher than the average MLL throughout the entire screen. Contrast ratio is white level divided by black level. White level on an LED can be set just about anywhere you want it so for this example I'm using about 30 FtL (foot Lamberts) which is an okay amount of max brightness for viewing in a dark room.
Take all the displays in the world, set max luminance at 30 FtL, and the ONLY thing left to determine contrast ratio is the MLL. The MLL of the F8000 in a non cloudy area is about .007 FtL, therefore, 30/.007=4286. This is sequential, or on/off contrast. A more important measure is ANSI, or simultaneous contrast, where both black AND white is on the display at the same time as this much more relates to real world viewing. As you can see in the following screen shot, the F8000 is much better than the report you read.
The reason "near" is in red
above is because on the F8000, when full black is called for, the display shuts down the pixels entirely for a fake MLL of 0. I use a black pattern with one white pixel illuminated in each of the four corners to keep the panel alive - it's the only way to know what the true MLL is on this model.
On another note, some of the calibration settings in this thread are showing Color south of 50 yet the CMS (color management system) has been set to Auto instead of being actually calibrated in Custom. The Custom mode ELIMINATES the need for Color & Tint (hue) adjustments with rare exceptions, the last glaring one being the Panasonic VT30 plasmas from 2011. Reading between the lines you might glean that if your professional calibrator didn't calibrate the 2 point grayscale (white balance) 10 point grayscale/gamma, AND the CMS, your set isn't fully calibrated. Your calibrator was working on the clock instead of quality.
A long as I'm on my high horse (US Marine on the attack) the correct setting for Sharpness on all recent Samsungs is 0. If you want your Samsung to "look" more sharp without screwing up the picture get your credit card out and buy a Darblet.
Some of the numbers in various sections of the display vary because I was testing a variety of setting options but you can see that the contrast ratio is just fine. A day mode of, say, 55 FtL yields a CR of 7857. No problem with that.
Re: your comment about plasmas, yes, that's the way it is. My VT50 outputs max luminance at 50 FtL and an MLL of .002 = CR 25,000. You can replicate this with a Sharp Elite LED but that model has plenty of other problems. I wouldn't own one - but I do own an F8000....Edited by buzzard767 - 8/25/13 at 7:00am