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Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread - Page 86

post #2551 of 6701
Hmm wonder if I should wait, doubt I can wait long but who knows lol.
post #2552 of 6701
For information on what panels everyone has, I have the US02 panel. No light bleed at all and no pic problems. Slight and I mean slight banding that goes a quarter of the way down from the top, but only at extreme angles... I can not pick it up in patterns in normal seating areas at all thank goodness. Let me be clear as well, Im anal as hell and look things over a million times, its a love hate ocd thing :-) Im lucky I only returned one because of light bleed (a 4 " long right centered light bleed that wasnt bad enough for most to see) and it would be passable for 90% of consumers! I returned it (not sure what panel number the return one was?) As for the F8000 this thing is money, thats all I can say. Love it.
Edited by willyburz - 8/27/13 at 4:48pm
post #2553 of 6701
new AVS member here, 1st post, I tried the search this thread function but no results turned up. today I just picked up a Bose Cinemate GS series ii. everything connected but I dont want to use the Bose remote to control the audio, I'd rather only use the Samsung universal remote. I searched the manual for programming codes and there was none. I called cust service and she said Samsung doesnt supply programming codes to control external devices. I'm lost...does anyone know if I can control Cinemate volume from the Samsung remote? As well, where can I find the code to control the new Sony blu ray player I just got. Thanks a lot in advance.
post #2554 of 6701
Hi all, I have a UN65F8000, Denon AVR 1912, and an OPPO BDP-103.

The oppo is new to me and my setup and I noticed that I'm having to manual setup audio delay via my Denon. So today I managed to get to a somewhat comfortable level with AV-Sync. The verdict was 138ms on my AVR-1912 with lip sync feature turned off. Here is how my set it wired.

OPPO BDP-103 - Split AV config with HDMI 1 out to the F8000 HDMI 1. HDMI 2 out to the Denon AVR 1912's HDMI 1. Then the AVR hooked to the F8000 via the HDMI 3 (ARC) input, but that one doesn't matter since I'm using the F8000's HDMI 1 for video only.

So, does anyone else have a similar setup? If so what are you all delaying your audio to?

I'm basically using buzz's cal-day and cal-night settings with AMP off and 1080/24p.

Looking forward to response time numbers!!
post #2555 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by fabian43 View Post

new AVS member here, 1st post, I tried the search this thread function but no results turned up. today I just picked up a Bose Cinemate GS series ii. everything connected but I dont want to use the Bose remote to control the audio, I'd rather only use the Samsung universal remote. I searched the manual for programming codes and there was none. I called cust service and she said Samsung doesnt supply programming codes to control external devices. I'm lost...does anyone know if I can control Cinemate volume from the Samsung remote? As well, where can I find the code to control the new Sony blu ray player I just got. Thanks a lot in advance.

On the silver remote press source, swipe up and to the left and you will hi light the universal remote setup ...you'll see it on the top right of the screen.
post #2556 of 6701
Hooked my f8000 up last night, seems like theres alot of white bleed on the set,


is there anywhere i can find some good basic settings to use with the TV?
post #2557 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by skzzzzy View Post

Hooked my f8000 up last night, seems like theres alot of white bleed on the set,


is there anywhere i can find some good basic settings to use with the TV?

In this thread, buzzards settings. They are good settings
post #2558 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by skzzzzy View Post

Hooked my f8000 up last night, seems like theres alot of white bleed on the set,


is there anywhere i can find some good basic settings to use with the TV?

I found I didn't have to do too many adjustments to the picture.

In Movie Mode, Warm2 is supposedly very accurate out of the box, but my own preference is setting the Color Temperature under Picture Options to Warm1 or Standard.

General picture settings are:
Backlight: Between 8 and 10, possibly slightly higher, depending on night or day viewing
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 0, though I don't dislike a little bit of sharpening. The highest value I'll raise it to is about 15.
Gamma: -1

Under Advanced, I like setting Dynamic Contrast to Low for a bit more punch.

Under Picture Options:
Auto Motion Plus: Custom, Blur 10, Judder 0, LED Clear Motion On

Those AMP settings allow for a motion resolution of 1,200 and a blur-free image. Increasing the Judder value will introduce the soap opera effect, as well as some unwanted visual artifacts depending on the source and value used. Anything higher than a value of 3 and I'll start to notice the interpolated frames creating a quick fading of black during certain scene transitions.

Smart LED: Low or Standard to keep blacks deep and flashlighting to a minimum
Cinema Black: On

Cinema Black supposedly keeps uniformity consistent for the black horizontal bars in widescreen films. You can leave it enabled even if you're not watching content with those bars, however, as it apparently detects when it's needed.
post #2559 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by AGuy01 View Post

I found I didn't have to do too many adjustments to the picture.

In Movie Mode, Warm2 is supposedly very accurate out of the box, but my own preference is setting the Color Temperature under Picture Options to Warm1 or Standard.

General picture settings are:
Backlight: Between 8 and 10, possibly slightly higher, depending on night or day viewing
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 0, though I don't dislike a little bit of sharpening. The highest value I'll raise it to is about 15.
Gamma: -1

Under Advanced, I like setting Dynamic Contrast to Low for a bit more punch.

Under Picture Options:
Auto Motion Plus: Custom, Blur 10, Judder 0, LED Clear Motion On

Those AMP settings allow for a motion resolution of 1,200 and a blur-free image. Increasing the Judder value will introduce the soap opera effect, as well as some unwanted visual artifacts depending on the source and value used. Anything higher than a value of 3 and I'll start to notice the interpolated frames creating a quick fading of black during certain scene transitions.

Smart LED: Low or Standard to keep blacks deep and flashlighting to a minimum
Cinema Black: On

Cinema Black supposedly keeps uniformity consistent for the black horizontal bars in widescreen films. You can leave it enabled even if you're not watching content with those bars, however, as it apparently detects when it's needed.

So the smart LED will make the blacks deeper if i set it to low? i was expecting plasma blacks with no flashlighting which is why i picked the f8000 over the f7100 =\
post #2560 of 6701
I just made the purchase for un55f800 yesterday. I was planning on something more basic, but pulled the trigger when brandsmart matched a redlaser price for this. I've done some searching in this thread for the best low profile mount for this tv, but didn't find much. I have a million other questions, but I'll try to figure out more as I play with the settings some more. Any advice would be greatly apreciated. The tv will be mounted over the fireplace. Thanks!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk 4
post #2561 of 6701
I have a question. I was thinking of getting in on the deals for the 8000 series since they dropped in price. Am I better getting the 60in 8500 plasma or the 60in f8000 LCD?
One thing to know is my stand is high. I think when sitting on my couch, my head is about 6in bellow center. And if I lay down and watch, that's like 2 feet lower.
post #2562 of 6701
You'd probably want the F8500 if you're watching off axis a lot. For gaming, F8000 is better. For dark room viewing, F8500 is better. For sheer brightness, F8000 is better. For highest contrast ratio, F8500 is better. The F8000 is also notably thinner and slimmer as an LED edge lit set. F8500 is a bit chunkier. It's up to you. Both are exceptionally amazing TV's (Some of the best in the history of TVs) but each have their own intended audiences.
post #2563 of 6701
hey everyone smile.gif now how match the input lag now F8000 with game mode ?
post #2564 of 6701
The input lag for Game Mode on the F8000 with firmware 1110 is unbelievably good. It's incredibly responsive. So responsive that it provides virtually the same experience as my 22ms computer monitor. I couldn't be more happier with the F8000 for gaming. Smart LED Local Dimming and Cinema Black really adds to the picture quality. Deep blacks in darker games and the black bars on widescreen cutscenes dimming is an awesome luxury for graphics whores like myself. I've been playing my PC games on the F8000 and it continues to amaze me.

A proper gaming display is like a high quality tube guitar amplifier. You can have the best guitar (computer rig) in the world with the best electronics and hardware, but if you don't have the proper amp (display) then you really aren't getting the full potential of the instrument. The Game Mode picture quality coupled with the unbelievably low input lag with firmware 1110, makes the F8000, in my opinion, the best gaming TV to date.
post #2565 of 6701
Hi there from Germany, first post here. I've been lurking for a few weeks now and finally decided to register. smile.gif

I have been looking at both the Sony W900A (W905 in Europe) and the F7/F8 Samsung LED TV's and can't decide which one I should buy.

The Sony has really nice input lag, but since I am doing a lot of off axis watching from my computer desk, the very limited viewing angles of the W900 are annoying, especially the pink hue on brighter screens. The Samsung TV's are doing a lot better in that regard, but so far you needed to enable PC mode and even then the input lag numbers were only average with 40+ ms.

Having a Samsung TV with its wider viewing angle coupled with similar input lag as the Sony would be perfect.

@DRN94: Thanks for your impressions. Did you have the chance to compare with the Sony W900A?

I have to repeat what others said:
It would really help if someone with the necessary equipment could post some input lag numbers to clear any doubts regarding the FW update. Is there really nobody who could help?
Anyways, doesn't look like we Europeans got that input lag FW update yet. Wonder if/when that'll happen.
post #2566 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by willyburz View Post

Anybody know of a discreet code for the bright toggle in 3d mode?! It always goes back to low. Or is that a firmware bug?! Otherwise I dont think the backlight is seperate between 3d and non 3d in pic settings...unless Im wrong?

It's a "feature"that samsung designed and has no intention of fixing
post #2567 of 6701
For the internal component casing yes, plastic doesn't transfer heat as much as metal so the back of the TV will feel cooler but the back of the panel itself is brushed metal. It's also framed with metal and the stand is metal. Top notch build quality compared to the cheap plastics that cover the entire TV on other brands, even high end TV's. Samsung is top in materials and design of displays in my opinion and I'm sure many would agree.
post #2568 of 6701
Quote:
Hooked my f8000 up last night, seems like theres alot of white bleed on the set,

What size set do you have?
post #2569 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by oreb View Post

What size set do you have?

60"

I mostly only see on when the tv boots up, when the tv shows other black screens it looks fine. i dont understand it
post #2570 of 6701
Btw what's the difference between this Tv and the un46f7500? Thanks.
post #2571 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by giantsx6 View Post

Btw what's the difference between this Tv and the un46f7500? Thanks.

1. The most important difference is Micro Dimming Ultimate instead of Pro (more zones) and Cinema Black (dims black bars on widescreen movies).

2. Fancy arc stand. Make sure you have a stand that is wide enough.

3. Higher Clear Motion rate (960 vs. 1200)

4. Clean back design.

If you were to go to a store and see both units side by side, the first thing that would jump out would be the design. The F8000 have a very simplistic yet stylish design that will still look good 5 years from now. The PQ difference will be less noticeable in a store setting (too bright).
post #2572 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by eclipsegt View Post

1. The most important difference is Micro Dimming Ultimate instead of Pro (more zones) and Cinema Black (dims black bars on widescreen movies).

2. Fancy arc stand. Make sure you have a stand that is wide enough.

3. Higher Clear Motion rate (960 vs. 1200)

4. Clean back design.

If you were to go to a store and see both units side by side, the first thing that would jump out would be the design. The F8000 have a very simplistic yet stylish design that will still look good 5 years from now. The PQ difference will be less noticeable in a store setting (too bright).

I love the design of the F8000. It's pretty much ALL screen. Unnoticeable bezel. A great stand that fades from view and makes the television look like it's floating.

Now that the input lag is fixed I'm overjoyed with it. I do hope they and other manufacturers can lower the input lag in standard picture modes, though, to better compete with plasmas. I love playing Rayman Legends with no motion blur thanks to AMP.
post #2573 of 6701
Ignoring the mess, a 60in fits in that same spot between the stands. (That's a 50in) my question is with the new curved stand, will the base be wide enough? What do think?

post #2574 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by starstreak View Post

Ignoring the mess, a 60in fits in that same spot between the stands. (That's a 50in) my question is with the new curved stand, will the base be wide enough? What do think?


If that's a 50, no it will not fit there ...the stand is as wide as the TV, I have a 55" and mine over hangs about an inch each side but I had to tie it to the wall with the provided strap down kit.

post #2575 of 6701
Aww damn really? I mean, yeah I see your pics. So I would need to lay a .25in board or something over the stand so it wouldn't wobble? Man, Samsung should've just left the base in the middle without going all "fancy".
post #2576 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by starstreak View Post

Aww damn really? I mean, yeah I see your pics. So I would need to lay a .25in board or something over the stand so it wouldn't wobble? Man, Samsung should've just left the base in the middle without going all "fancy".

You could always wall mount the Samsung if that's not too much of a hassle. Skip the stand and any non-ideal solutions altogether.
post #2577 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by starstreak View Post

Aww damn really? I mean, yeah I see your pics. So I would need to lay a .25in board or something over the stand so it wouldn't wobble? Man, Samsung should've just left the base in the middle without going all "fancy".

I didn't feel safe with even that little bit over hanging, a good earth quake here (I live in L.A.) could possibly topple it or a good bump so I tied it down to the wall ...it didn't need much tilting to get it to topple past the tipping point with having the last inch missing as shown ...and to be honest, I love the stand, it looks elegant and really gives the TV an awesome look, I feel the TV should just be set up to be displayed as a work of art, lol ...wall mounting like AGuy01 says is a good way, Samsung wall mount sells for like $50 online if you can find it ...the way the stand is design gives the feel of the TV hovering ...if you're getting a 60" I'd say you're gunna have at least 55" of width.

post #2578 of 6701
Quote:
60"

I mostly only see on when the tv boots up, when the tv shows other black screens it looks fine. i dont understand it

That's because the TV isn't dimming when it's booting. If you want to test for it turn all dimming crap off like Smart LED, Cinama black and Eco, and turn the backlight up. Watch some 3D like that. The first thing I did when I got this set was to turn off all dimming and watch for probably around 50 hrs. I was really surprised at how uniform and nice everything looked but then again that's how it should be for the amount of $ you're dropping. There was no flashlighting or light bleed, the whole panel just becomes lighter. However when I turn on Smart LED I get effects like the one pictured below:



You can see to the right of the pop up box where the panel becomes lighter but all around it's black. That happens when the credits are rolling, I'll see brighter strips all around the credits. If I turn the LED to low or off everything stays at the same uniformity but the screen gets lighter.
post #2579 of 6701
About the motion stutter and blur: I tested the TV sufficiently for stutter with AMP on and I DO see stutter. I hate it. It's like the picture just stops for a split second and starts up again. I couldn't catch it with AMP off or in Clear or Custom with blur set to 10 and Judder to 0. It seems to happen if you turn Judder on to even 1. But for example, if I watch a whole movie with Blur at 10 and Judder at 3 the stutter only happens twice or three times. I watched Gatsby in 3D the other night with those settings and didn't notice stutter even once, I did notice some weird motion artifacts thought. Rewound, turned off Judder, artifacts were gone. Rewound, set AMP to clear, artifacts were gone. The Judder setting seems to introduce problems. As for blur, I really don't know what people are talking about. I don't see any blur like I did with my LG LED where every motion, even a head slightly cocking, would blur out the whole face for a second. If I turn AMP off there will be blur in certain fast moving scenes but that's it. I prefer AMP off in order to get the film effect.

About the F8000 v PNF8500. I look at it in terms of "issues." You have the potential for IR burn with the plasma. From reading the owners thread I see owners have IR but supposedly it goes away. That scares the heck out of me. Another issue is the buzzing. I think everyone on that thread reported buzzing. Another issue, the same issue that plagues the LED, is the motion. The plasma guys have issues with motion that seem to be worse than the LED, pops and judder and stutter, that can't be turned off with a few clicks of the remote. Then think about the issues with the LED, motion being one, uniformity lightbleed, flashlighting, or maybe even clouding, all detailed in this thread. Contrast and blacks are better on the plasma, brightness on the LED. And the plasma is a hundred bucks cheaper. Also, the plasma stand is seriously amazing. Wish the F8000 had the PNF stand smile.gif But I love the F8000 design and will never go back to a TV with a standard bezel, the plasma has a thick bezel. This TV just looks pretty damn good on or off.
post #2580 of 6701
Code:
Quote:
Originally Posted by MERKEY99 View Post

Just to clearify my experience I own a 75" f8000 for the living room and a 65"f9000 for the man cave.





hi, Merkey

Can you please do me a favor and tell me the actual dimensions of the stand base on your 75" F8000? I get two different specs from Samsung and from Amazon. I'm building a new shelf for the one I'm having delivered soon, and I especially need to know the minimum front-to-back dimension.

Thanks in advance!! smile.gif
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