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Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread - Page 96

post #2851 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

If you're getting fuzziness around players, you should be adjusting the sharpness DOWN. Sharpness for TV programming should be no more than 20 or 25.

Sharpness should be 0 unless you can not visibly see added White along dark edges. All recent Samsungs are like this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by grinchmcg1 View Post

Whats weird is the 1:00 FOX game looked worse than the 4:00 FOX game. Same Channel !
I actually put AMP on standard and thought it looked better. Maybe my eyes were getting tired. smile.gif

Cameras or truck satellite feed maybe. Watch Fox News "The Five" - 4 cameras, two very good, two are crap.
post #2852 of 6701
I was looking at CNET's settings on their review of the 55". Anyone tried those and have an opinion ?

Do you have to do a factory reset after a new software update is done?
post #2853 of 6701
OK . One more time !! biggrin.gif

Different channels will look different on the F8000 as compared to other TV`s .

The F8000 can not handle the variations of broadcast signals the same way other TV`s can.
For some unknown reason the F8000 wants the best of everything , however in the day-to-day operation of any TV , that is not possible.

Other TV`s have a way to compensate for signal variation , the F8000 does not.


OK , One more time # 2 !! biggrin.gif

LCD panels do not need the break-in time that plasma tv`s need , however the electronics do !
That is why it is always best to have at least a few hundred hours on the F8000 before calibration.

I hope this info helps !!

The 29th Jedi to eat an  !!
post #2854 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post

OK . One more time !! biggrin.gif

Different channels will look different on the F8000 as compared to other TV`s .

The F8000 can not handle the variations of broadcast signals the same way other TV`s can.

Eh? Different processing? An inbound signal says pixel umptyump is x1,y1,Y1 and the TV sends that signal to the pixel. Calibration modifies that signal to, say, x1, y3,Y-4, and that produces an actual x1,y1,Y1 on the screen. That's it and they all work the same unless you're talking about motion handling, etc.

You're correct on #2 though. smile.gif
post #2855 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post

OK . One more time !! biggrin.gif

Different channels will look different on the F8000 as compared to other TV`s .

The F8000 can not handle the variations of broadcast signals the same way other TV`s can.
For some unknown reason the F8000 wants the best of everything , however in the day-to-day operation of any TV , that is not possible.

Other TV`s have a way to compensate for signal variation , the F8000 does not.




I hope this info helps !!

The 29th Jedi to eat an  !!

You need to backup this statement, totally ridiculous !
post #2856 of 6701
Hi Buzz ,

Thank for the clarification !! biggrin.gif

While I think of it eek.gif

Would ISF calibration help with different channels not looking the same ? , or sources for that matter ?

I had a Sony XBR2 40" LCD and all channels and sources were the same.
Sure , I had an occasional channel that did not look the same , but no where near the difference that I am getting with the F8000.

It really is weird , some channels look great and other channels I can`t wait to grab the remote to make adjustments , only to readjust the next time I change channels,

Can anything be done to stabilize the fluctuation between channels ?

Also , as you may remember , I have a Pioneer "Elite" DV79-AVi dvd player , the other day I had a chance to speak with a Samsung engineer and mentioned to him that I was not getting audio out to the F8000 via HDMI cable.

He told me that Samsung is aware of the 1.1 profile incompatibility and I asked if it would be possible to go into the F8000 software via computer and disable the command string for the DVI audio as that is what is causing me to get no audio from my `79 to the F8000.

His reply was "yes , it is possible to do that , but it would not be covered under warranty , however it would not void the warranty , but because of the cost involved would be more than buying a newer dvd player.

Does ISF training in general cover tv op-sys`s or just calibration ?

Many thanks ! smile.gif

Gary 
post #2857 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by ozark View Post

You need to backup this statement, totally ridiculous !

OK !
post #2858 of 6701
I noticed, once again I hope I do a good enough description, but I noticed on the sides, left and right there is a sliver of shadow after the bezel and the black part.

Like it looks like it's slightly darker than the rest of the screen, do you guys see that or know what I'm talking about.

hard to notice, but you can see it when you notice it. from some angles and distances seems harder to see..

I wish I had a good camera, but I don't.
post #2859 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Sharpness should be 0 unless you can not visibly see added White along dark edges. All recent Samsungs are like this.

If you actually continued to read what I said, I was referring to the 20 to 25 sharpness for TV broadcasts where lots of fine detail is lost or generalized with the compression codecs, so a little sharpness for TV programming can help bring that detail back out, that's the whole point of having edge definition settings on a TV. Obviously, high quality inputs don't need any added edge definition. So for PC inputs or high quality HD inputs (BluRays) or anything native 1080p for that matter, sharpness should be on zero. Did I really have to say that out loud before you condescendingly lecture me on edge definition on Samsung TV's? If you've read my previous posts, you'd know that I'm more than aware of how sharpness and edge defining should be on Samsung TVs.
post #2860 of 6701
Hey all,

I'm about to recieve my new Samsung 46F8000! I use a Marantz as a receiver and heard allot of rumors that the new F8000 has issues with the ARC connection with certain receivers. Are there important things i should not forget while connecting?

Thnx!

Mark
post #2861 of 6701
Returned the Son w802a, and got the samsung f8000 instead.


Awesome TV, except one thing. I am getting backlight bleeding on all four corners of the screen.


I don't want to take it back, and play roulette with returning and hoping I get a better one.

Is there anything i can do.?

On other TV's I've seen it come and go before. On another TV of mine, I paused on bright white screen for a while and it went away.


One thing I noticed with this F8000, I had the back light bleed last night, went to bed, turned the tv on in the morning and it was gone, but it slowly came back.
post #2862 of 6701
Sorry if this has been posted already but I have a question on behalf of my brother.

He says that when he starts his tv up, and this only happens sometimes, not everytime, that after about 30 seconds his HDMI will cut out for a split second, just a flicker of a lost signal, and come back. After the source returns his viewing is never interrupted again. It only happens after boot.

Anyone here experience this? Is this a known issue?
post #2863 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post

Would ISF calibration help with different channels not looking the same ? , or sources for that matter ?

Does ISF training in general cover tv op-sys`s or just calibration ?

1. No. It's all about quality of content meeting standards.

2. No. There is not enough time. Both ISF and THX have private sites where calibrators can get needed information.
post #2864 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

If you actually continued to read what I said, I was referring to the 20 to 25 sharpness for TV broadcasts where lots of fine detail is lost or generalized with the compression codecs, so a little sharpness for TV programming can help bring that detail back out, that's the whole point of having edge definition settings on a TV. Obviously, high quality inputs don't need any added edge definition. So for PC inputs or high quality HD inputs (BluRays) or anything native 1080p for that matter, sharpness should be on zero. Did I really have to say that out loud before you condescendingly lecture me on edge definition on Samsung TV's? If you've read my previous posts, you'd know that I'm more than aware of how sharpness and edge defining should be on Samsung TVs.



I believe "sharpness" was invented by one company years ago. The next year, everyone had it. Sort of like fins on cars in the 1960's....
post #2865 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaXPL View Post

Sorry if this has been posted already but I have a question on behalf of my brother.

He says that when he starts his tv up, and this only happens sometimes, not everytime, that after about 30 seconds his HDMI will cut out for a split second, just a flicker of a lost signal, and come back. After the source returns his viewing is never interrupted again. It only happens after boot.

Anyone here experience this? Is this a known issue?



I get the same thing on my 60f8000........annoying, but not a deal breaker.
post #2866 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaXPL View Post

Sorry if this has been posted already but I have a question on behalf of my brother.

He says that when he starts his tv up, and this only happens sometimes, not everytime, that after about 30 seconds his HDMI will cut out for a split second, just a flicker of a lost signal, and come back. After the source returns his viewing is never interrupted again. It only happens after boot.

Anyone here experience this? Is this a known issue?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnHoward View Post

I get the same thing on my 60f8000........annoying, but not a deal breaker.


Same thing happens to me shortly after start up. It's like an HDMI handshake is occurring. Happens every single time and never again until the next time the TV is powered on. It's a total non-issue as far as I'm concerned.

I run all of my HDMI connections through my Denon AVR receiver and I also use a controlled power strip which shuts off power to all the components when the AVR receiver is turned off. So when my AVR is turned off, the power strip essentially pulls the plug to the Samsung TV. When the AVR is powered back on, the Samsung turns back on automatically since it remembers the power state (on or off) when the plug was pulled. Anyway, I thought that this HDMI handshake that occurs after 30 seconds or so might somehow be related to my setup and the fact that my TV is booting up from scratch each time instead of from standby. Perhaps not.
post #2867 of 6701
Hi Everyone, just got my Samsung UN65F8000 & it came with 2 remotes,the panel version is US02 ? is this a Samsung panel ?? rolleyes.gif the tv was made in July 2013, I have not hooked up the tv yet, will get to that later on today ... Thanks All... smile.gif
post #2868 of 6701
you are right,It will be pretty tight for your 1.5" router. The back is black plastic, not metal. thanks P5zQBq
post #2869 of 6701
I use to always have my f8000 sharpness at 0, but now I run it at 20. It really does look sharper, anything higher and things look crazy. With sharpness at 20 it looks like a 4k set. I think samsung's sharpness setting is more affective than the darbee.
post #2870 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by seansingh7326 View Post

I use to always have my f8000 sharpness at 0, but now I run it at 20. It really does look sharper, anything higher and things look crazy. With sharpness at 20 it looks like a 4k set. I think samsung's sharpness setting is more affective than the darbee.

I think sharpness is in the eye of the beholder....we all see things such as artifacts differently and some may be more critical than others. I also run my sharpness at 0-20 depending on what program I am watching.

The f8000 does a great job on PQ but its definitely not 4k. biggrin.gif
post #2871 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ob1-Adobe View Post

Returned the Son w802a, and got the samsung f8000 instead.


Awesome TV, except one thing. I am getting backlight bleeding on all four corners of the screen.


I don't want to take it back, and play roulette with returning and hoping I get a better one.

Is there anything i can do.?

On other TV's I've seen it come and go before. On another TV of mine, I paused on bright white screen for a while and it went away.


One thing I noticed with this F8000, I had the back light bleed last night, went to bed, turned the tv on in the morning and it was gone, but it slowly came back.

I'm struggling with this same issue, except it's pretty constant for me. What is your backlight setting? Mine is at 6 (in a dark room) -- if I go darker it lessens the clouding, but it also darkens a lot of picture detail.

I'm wondering if paying for one of the "best" LCDs on the market makes sense. it's my understanding this is a problem (to some degree) with all LCDs.

At this point i'm probably going to return it -- I'll either get a cheaper LCD (why pay top-dollar for such a glaring issue?) or a plasma.

Let me know if you have any luck.
post #2872 of 6701
Enabling Smart LED didn't help to reduce or eliminate your flashlighting?
post #2873 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by AGuy01 View Post

Enabling Smart LED didn't help to reduce or eliminate your flashlighting?
At first I thought it did, but I wasn't considering how I also turned down the backlight at the same time. With the backlight at 3 or 4 there wasn't much flashlighting, but I soon realized I was missing a ton of detail.

I think my primary issue is my room is too dark for a LCD (I didn't get a plasma originally b/c it's a small room and the heat was an issue).
post #2874 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

I believe "sharpness" was invented by one company years ago. The next year, everyone had it. Sort of like fins on cars in the 1960's....

You can reach a happy medium with bringing back out lost detail and not getting to the point of negative haloing effects to the details. It's not like it's either 100 or 0. There's values in between to reach a happy medium is my only point. And each manufacturer and TV seems to have it's own edge definition algorithms that produce good or bad results. Samsung's algorithms seem to do a very good job with the over compressed TV programming providers claim as "HD."
post #2875 of 6701
I like setting Sharpness to 15, even with Blu-rays. A slight amount of it just looks nice to me. Personal preference.
post #2876 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

1. No. It's all about quality of content meeting standards.

2. No. There is not enough time. Both ISF and THX have private sites where calibrators can get needed information.

Thanks , Buzz , for your help. smile.gif

Later ,

Gary 
post #2877 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnHoward View Post

I get the same thing on my 60f8000........annoying, but not a deal breaker.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkozlow3 View Post


Same thing happens to me shortly after start up. It's like an HDMI handshake is occurring. Happens every single time and never again until the next time the TV is powered on. It's a total non-issue as far as I'm concerned.

I run all of my HDMI connections through my Denon AVR receiver and I also use a controlled power strip which shuts off power to all the components when the AVR receiver is turned off. So when my AVR is turned off, the power strip essentially pulls the plug to the Samsung TV. When the AVR is powered back on, the Samsung turns back on automatically since it remembers the power state (on or off) when the plug was pulled. Anyway, I thought that this HDMI handshake that occurs after 30 seconds or so might somehow be related to my setup and the fact that my TV is booting up from scratch each time instead of from standby. Perhaps not.

Thanks guys. I just wanted to be sure his set didnt have a defect.

I'll look into it a bit more and post back here if I find a solution.
post #2878 of 6701
Damn. I was all set to get the 60f8500 plasma. Went to Best Buy and they had the 65f8500 next to the 65f8000 LED model and it seemed like the brightness was 50% less than the led model. The sales person got out he remotes and the brightness was set to 45 on the led and so was the plasma. He turned up the plasma to 100 (full) and it didnt seemed like it helped much.
BUT... While the picture was dimmer all the colors didnt look blown out like on the led screen and seemed more color accurate. But what I thought was white text on the screen was a grey in color on the plasma. And some of the demo clips that was running on both screens seemed to be at the same brightness at times? Maybe it just looked darker when displaying a bright picture. Neither screen was calibrated and was set to the same picture format. I think it was "movie".
Now I don't know what to get again. Both are out of stock but would take about ten days to come in.
post #2879 of 6701
It's a hard choice....what type of lighting does your room have? Plasma a are great but a little dimmer and will always be. LCD is great but you do get some issues with the tech. (Flashlight, bleeding, ghosting). Although the f8000 does a great job at those things.
post #2880 of 6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by poodfoison View Post

At first I thought it did, but I wasn't considering how I also turned down the backlight at the same time. With the backlight at 3 or 4 there wasn't much flashlighting, but I soon realized I was missing a ton of detail.

I think my primary issue is my room is too dark for a LCD (I didn't get a plasma originally b/c it's a small room and the heat was an issue).

Make sure you have cinema black on. It is a must for this set. It will eliminate the flashlighting for most content. I would also recommend smart led on low or standard. That in combination with your low backlight of 6 should look pretty good. You may even be able to turn the backlight up a little more than that. I have those settings (smart led standard) in movie mode with a backlight of 16 and experience no flash-lighting in a completely dark room.
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