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Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread - Page 105

post #3121 of 6721
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

adgrimes,

So the camera is used to read motion for the motion control feature?

That and skype yes.


cjvnyc, thats interesting thats what fixed it for me...that and I'm at the most up to date firmware. Are you current on firmware?
post #3122 of 6721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Imp View Post

Finally got the TV all set up and I have to say this is the most amazing picture I've seen to date (minus the 4K I saw in Best Buy). 3 grand hurt the wallet a bit, but I am loving it so far.

I know most of you would not agree with this next statement as I know you are dedicated sound people, but as someone who has listened to built in speakers all his life I have to say this may possibly be the best sound I have ever heard coming from a set. I was actually blown away by the music that came blaring out of it during one scene we were watching.

Okay, so I know there are multiple calibration settings out there for this set and I definitely know it needs it as it was not pleasant watching some things with the default settings. I played around with some of the numbers and settings to try and lessen some of the extremes and have gotten it to "bearable" for the time being. I dropped Contrast to 90, shut off that Eco Sensor that darkens based on room lighting, and put the Energy Saver to Low to lessen the brightness.
My main issue now is the extreme swings in light and dark scenes. Some scenes are so bright that it's almost blinding, but then the next scene will be so dark that you can barely make out who or what is there. I know there is one setting that specifically says it addresses the amount of difference, but I'm not sure what that should be set to (if it even helps with this problem). The default is set to High, but I don't know if that means it makes it so there is a huge swing in difference or if High is a strong filter to prevent big changes.

Any help you can give (short of a professional calibration) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

Check post number 1 in this thread.
post #3123 of 6721
Quote:
Originally Posted by adgrimes View Post

That and skype yes.


cjvnyc, thats interesting thats what fixed it for me...that and I'm at the most up to date firmware. Are you current on firmware?

no, i've avoided the updates for now. that must be the reason.
post #3124 of 6721
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjvnyc View Post

no, i've avoided the updates for now. that must be the reason.

It never hurts to avoid updates but one fix that was noticed was game mode works much better now. And that message error that you are getting actually came BECAUSE of an update...so your tv is on a newer version than the default firmware my tv came with when I bought it back in April.
post #3125 of 6721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Karmakop View Post


Yea. Thats exactly what happens. Hdmi resets and the resolution displays.

Does anyone know what this is caused by?
post #3126 of 6721
Quote:
Originally Posted by bd5400 View Post


I don't think that's the same thing as the other poster is referring to. Yes, the screen blacks out when there is no picture so that it looks as black as possible for scene changes/fade outs etc, but from what I understand, and from what my unit does, the picture blanks out as if its resetting the HDMI connection. When the image reappears my unit displays the resolution pop-up at the top as if it just received a new connection/signal. It happens every day about 20-40 seconds after turning it on but it's really brief and doesn't bother me.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Karmakop View Post


Yea. Thats exactly what happens. Hdmi resets and the resolution displays.

Does anyone know what this is caused by?
post #3127 of 6721

Enable cinema black (dimming of top and bottom zones) and you will reduce flash lighting especially with letterbox content, but at the expense of a minimal dimming overall (that unfortunately some people notice, while others don't) and minimal loss of contrast. If I had to choose,the slight EoRNcTdimming and loss of contrast while using cinema black is far less noticeable than not enabling the top and bottom dimming and dealing with corner flash lighting.

As for the usefulness of cinema black.... just ask any ES8000 owner who preferred using movie mode, but had to deal with the flashlighting as micro dimming overall was disabled in movie mode. With the 1046 update, the cinema black was re-enabled for movie mode (albeit not user controlled so it can not be turned off) and magically many of the flashlighting issues associated with movie mode have disappeared.

post #3128 of 6721
Quote:
Originally Posted by adgrimes View Post

It never hurts to avoid updates but one fix that was noticed was game mode works much better now. And that message error that you are getting actually came BECAUSE of an update...so your tv is on a newer version than the default firmware my tv came with when I bought it back in April.

Well, I avoided the updates because I was so pleased with the picture with your settings!
post #3129 of 6721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Imp View Post

Finally got the TV all set up and I have to say this is the most amazing picture I've seen to date (minus the 4K I saw in Best Buy). 3 grand hurt the wallet a bit, but I am loving it so far.

I know most of you would not agree with this next statement as I know you are dedicated sound people, but as someone who has listened to built in speakers all his life I have to say this may possibly be the best sound I have ever heard coming from a set. I was actually blown away by the music that came blaring out of it during one scene we were watching.

Okay, so I know there are multiple calibration settings out there for this set and I definitely know it needs it as it was not pleasant watching some things with the default settings. I played around with some of the numbers and settings to try and lessen some of the extremes and have gotten it to "bearable" for the time being. I dropped Contrast to 90, shut off that Eco Sensor that darkens based on room lighting, and put the Energy Saver to Low to lessen the brightness.
My main issue now is the extreme swings in light and dark scenes. Some scenes are so bright that it's almost blinding, but then the next scene will be so dark that you can barely make out who or what is there. I know there is one setting that specifically says it addresses the amount of difference, but I'm not sure what that should be set to (if it even helps with this problem). The default is set to High, but I don't know if that means it makes it so there is a huge swing in difference or if High is a strong filter to prevent big changes.

Any help you can give (short of a professional calibration) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Check post number 1 in this thread.

I saw your numbers and have them printed out for reference. Thing is I also have 3 other calibration references and of course everyone's is different. I'm thinking I might just change the ones that all sources seem to agree on.

My only question to you is I see your settings seem to be missing a lot of options. Are you saying that they shouldn't be changed or did you just not list them?
post #3130 of 6721
Hey there guys,

any thoughts on those double contour issues I brought up some posts ago?!
I'd really appreciate any help.
post #3131 of 6721
Quote:
Originally Posted by toreador View Post

Hey there guys,

any thoughts on those double contour issues I brought up some posts ago?!
I'd really appreciate any help.

It's just the auto motion plus. The odd double image artifact plagued the 2012 models more. I leave Auto Motion with these settings: Anti-Blur 10 Anti-Judder 3 and LED Clear Motion On. I don't have any double images except for maybe one or two frames on certain commercials that lack natural motion blur. Anti-Judder on 4 or higher seems to make the double image artifact occur more often. It also depends on your source or TV provider. I'd experiment with the Anti-Judder setting or turning Auto Motion off entirely. It seems like the motion enhancing processing is the cause of the odd double image. If worse comes to worse, you can try Game Mode which get's rid of a lot of the extra image processing without compromising too much on picture settings freedom.
post #3132 of 6721
Oh, you already tried all that. Contact Samsung support then. tongue.gif
post #3133 of 6721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Imp View Post




I saw your numbers and have them printed out for reference. Thing is I also have 3 other calibration references and of course everyone's is different. I'm thinking I might just change the ones that all sources seem to agree on.

My only question to you is I see your settings seem to be missing a lot of options. Are you saying that they shouldn't be changed or did you just not list them?

List the options you're referring to please.
post #3134 of 6721
Fyi everybody I just picked my my un55f8000, got it price matched for 1895.00
post #3135 of 6721
Sorry forgot to post,I got it at best buy
post #3136 of 6721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Imp View Post

I saw your numbers and have them printed out for reference. Thing is I also have 3 other calibration references and of course everyone's is different. I'm thinking I might just change the ones that all sources seem to agree on.

My only question to you is I see your settings seem to be missing a lot of options. Are you saying that they shouldn't be changed or did you just not list them?
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

List the options you're referring to please.

My apologies. There were 4 settings that I thought were missing, but you had them written out differently than the other sources. I see what I was missing now. Since I have you though, I have a few general questions that I'm confused on.

First would be Sharpness. All 4 of you have it listed as 0, but why is that? Wouldn't that make the picture too soft? I thought the idea of HD was to make for the most realistic picture and softening images seems counterintuitive (to me anyway).

Second would be about Color Temp. Once again you all agree on Warm2, but why is that? I get the whole kelvin thing, but why not Warm1? What is the difference between those two? Coming from a set that developed a dreaded yellowish tint issue, I am worried about adding red to my whites that may end up looking yellowish again.

Third is Film Mode. You list it as Auto2, while another has it at Auto1, and a 3rd has it off. What exactly is the difference between Auto1 and Auto2 as the manual really doesn't do a good job in explaining that?

Fourth is that Eco Solution. What do you have the Energy Saving and Eco Sensor set at?


Everything else is pretty much explanatory. Granted I wish all 4 sources weren't so different when it comes to Color Space, White Balance, and 10p White Balance. I really would like to change those as well, but with 4 wildly differing results it's hard to know which is the one to go with.

Thank you very much for your help on these matters.
post #3137 of 6721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Imp View Post




My apologies. There were 4 settings that I thought were missing, but you had them written out differently than the other sources. I see what I was missing now. Since I have you though, I have a few general questions that I'm confused on.

First would be Sharpness. All 4 of you have it listed as 0, but why is that? Wouldn't that make the picture too soft? I thought the idea of HD was to make for the most realistic picture and softening images seems counterintuitive (to me anyway).

Second would be about Color Temp. Once again you all agree on Warm2, but why is that? I get the whole kelvin thing, but why not Warm1? What is the difference between those two? Coming from a set that developed a dreaded yellowish tint issue, I am worried about adding red to my whites that may end up looking yellowish again.

Third is Film Mode. You list it as Auto2, while another has it at Auto1, and a 3rd has it off. What exactly is the difference between Auto1 and Auto2 as the manual really doesn't do a good job in explaining that?

Fourth is that Eco Solution. What do you have the Energy Saving and Eco Sensor set at?


Everything else is pretty much explanatory. Granted I wish all 4 sources weren't so different when it comes to Color Space, White Balance, and 10p White Balance. I really would like to change those as well, but with 4 wildly differing results it's hard to know which is the one to go with.

Thank you very much for your help on these matters.

Sharpness: Some manufacturers make it possible to soften the image but Samsung isn't one of them. Increasing the Sharpness control in the Samsung adds white artifacts that cover up intended content.

Color Temp: We check the various presets to find out which one is closest to the standard (D65). It is very often Warm 2. That helps to minimize the amount of adjustment needed.

Film Mode: I'm quite insensitive to film motion problems so it really doesn't make any difference to me. The correct answer, though, is to use Film 1 with 480 interlaced content. I'm 1600 miles from my F8000 but I think it's grayed out with progressive content. Film 2 helps with text detail and the like in smaller portions of the screen. Don't ask me how it works because I haven't a clue. smile.gif

Eco mode: Off
post #3138 of 6721
Hey everyone, I have the UN65F8000 and I love the set but it came with a couple of issues like burned out pixels. I am having the set replaced but started looking at the plasma, the PN64F8500. My question is has anyone seen these sets side by side? I really like the bezel less look of the LED but I'm told the picture quality and blacks of the plasma are superior.

Anyone know how much better the picture quality of the plasma is? Is it quite noticeable? I'm trying to decide between the two. It's going in my home theatre in the basement so light isn't a big issue. Would you sacrifice the picture quality of the plasma to have the bezel less look of the LCD?

Thanks
post #3139 of 6721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparhawk73 View Post

Hey everyone, I have the UN65F8000 and I love the set but it came with a couple of issues like burned out pixels. I am having the set replaced but started looking at the plasma, the PN64F8500. My question is has anyone seen these sets side by side? I really like the bezel less look of the LED but I'm told the picture quality and blacks of the plasma are superior.

Anyone know how much better the picture quality of the plasma is? Is it quite noticeable? I'm trying to decide between the two. It's going in my home theatre in the basement so light isn't a big issue. Would you sacrifice the picture quality of the plasma to have the bezel less look of the LCD?

Thanks

If the tv is going in a basement you want to look at nothing but plasmas, and you have already found one of the best plasmas money can buy currently. The f8500 is the perfect mix of plasma picture quality with LCD-like brightness. I saw it in the store and was wowed by it. I would have chose the f8500 over the w900a if it weren't for input lag.
post #3140 of 6721
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgershon View Post

ARC Audio and other Home Theater Connection Issues

At my wits end trying to connect DVR, Samsung F8000 and Sony audio receiver. Two configurations possible: (1) DVR -> Samsung -> Receiver or (2) DVR -> Receiver -> Samsung.

On (1): Samsung tech support tells you to go this way. DVR connects to HDMI 1 and HDMI 3 connects to TV input on receiver. Generally functional, except Samsung is not passing 5.1 sound to the receiver despite ARC. ARC is lit on receiver, so in theory this is workimg, but receiver is only getting two sound channels on all stations. I have combed this thread and it is unclear to me if anybody has successfully passed 5.1 sound from an external input, through the F8000, and to the external receiver. May not be possible either on optical or HDMI. If someone has been successful, please speak up.

On (2) Hooking DVR to SAT/DVR input on receiver and TV on receiver to HDMI 3 on F8000 works at first and generates 5.1 sound. Using same channel on DVR so I know 5.1 is working because (2) gets it, so (1) must be a passthrough problem. Problem I have is that when I turn TV and receiver off, something seems to go wrong in HDMI handshake. When I power TV back on, it goes directly to HDMI 3 (it should) but then it puts the receiver into TV mode (instead of Sat/DVR). actively overriding my setting. When I switch receiver back to Sat / DVR. there is no output coming from the TV port on receiver to HDMI 3 on the F8000. I must unplug F8000 AND either unplug receiver or reset receiver to clear thr issue and fix.

I believe that the F8000 has been out long enough that others must have encountered these issues. While it could be a compatibility problem with my Sony receiver, there may be something else happening. Is there something else I should do to enable passthrough of 5.1 audio over ARC from an external HDMI source (it works fine from the internal Samsung apps liek netflix)? Alternatively, is there some trick to getting over the handshaking issues that are causing the HDMI connection to fail when I pass video over HDMI from receiver to F8000?

I finally have all my equipment operating through method #2 above. Key was to turn off HDMI-CEC on both receiver and TV, and to put the receiver into HDMI pass through mode. Receiver will send its HDMI to TV even when receiver itself is in standby mode. The HDMI-CEC needed to be off so that the TV did not keep changing the settings on the receiver and viceversa. Also have the receiver sending HDMI to TV on HDMI 1, and TV sending audio back to receiver through digital optical port. Not sure if ARC on HDMI 3 would have worked for sound, but this seemed to work so I let it be.
post #3141 of 6721
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgershon View Post

I finally have all my equipment operating through method #2 above. Key was to turn off HDMI-CEC on both receiver and TV, and to put the receiver into HDMI pass through mode. Receiver will send its HDMI to TV even when receiver itself is in standby mode. The HDMI-CEC needed to be off so that the TV did not keep changing the settings on the receiver and viceversa. Also have the receiver sending HDMI to TV on HDMI 1, and TV sending audio back to receiver through digital optical port. Not sure if ARC on HDMI 3 would have worked for sound, but this seemed to work so I let it be.
So I see you got it to work. Great! Reading your post method 2 you are utilizing the digital audio out right?
post #3142 of 6721
So I was just in Best Buy tonight as I am contemplating trading in my 65F8000 for a 4K set or 75F7100. Well I concluded I am not interested yet in a 4K set. Saw the Sony x900 and the red's were completed over saturated. Now I understand that it needs adjustments and to be calibrated but will wait for a 84" UHD to drop in price over the next 3 years. Saw the Panasonic ZT60 next to the F8000 and could see how much better the blacks were on it. Next up was a 75F7100, I must say that the picture was pretty good and close enough to an F8000. But again these are my observations. Cannot justify spending over $3K for the difference between an 65F8000 and 75F8000 which is why I am considering the 75F7100. Only thing that is annoying is Samsung raising the price on it from $4499 to $4999. So probably will keep my 65f8000 for awhile. This **** can really drive you nuts.
post #3143 of 6721
Quote:
Originally Posted by adgrimes View Post

So I see you got it to work. Great! Reading your post method 2 you are utilizing the digital audio out right?

yes that is correct. I send video to the F8000 through HDMI 1, coming from DVR to receiver to F8000. I send audio back to the receiver from the F8000 via digital audio cable (optical). This comes into play when I watch programming from the native F8000 (smarthub or other) and not from the DVR.
post #3144 of 6721
Hey there ... what about the Game Mode update ? ...

Is it true that the F8000 has less Input lag now ? Can you compare it to a W900A from sony ?

Peace
post #3145 of 6721
To piggyback a bit off the previous Game Mode post, I have a different question.

I know setting to Game Mode defaults the Picture Mode from Movie back to Standard and you can't change it from there. I'm sure it also resets a bunch of other settings as well.

My question is, should I change all the settings (that can be changed) to match what I have my normal TV viewing set to or are there specific settings that should be used for a gaming system?
post #3146 of 6721
My Mits 73 inch is dying and I am going to need a TV soon. Have my eye on the 75 inch F8000 but I'm not gonna pay $7,000 for a edge-lit LED TV when you now have 4K tvs for nearly that price. You guys forsee the price dropping substantially by Jan? June 2014. If it does not I guess I gonna have to setlle for the Vizio 80 inch ( until I can get a 4K/OLED at a reasonable price
post #3147 of 6721
Quote:
Originally Posted by mroadster158 View Post

So I was just in Best Buy tonight as I am contemplating trading in my 65F8000 for a 4K set or 75F7100. Well I concluded I am not interested yet in a 4K set. Saw the Sony x900 and the red's were completed over saturated. Now I understand that it needs adjustments and to be calibrated but will wait for a 84" UHD to drop in price over the next 3 years. Saw the Panasonic ZT60 next to the F8000 and could see how much better the blacks were on it. Next up was a 75F7100, I must say that the picture was pretty good and close enough to an F8000. But again these are my observations. Cannot justify spending over $3K for the difference between an 65F8000 and 75F8000 which is why I am considering the 75F7100. Only thing that is annoying is Samsung raising the price on it from $4499 to $4999. So probably will keep my 65f8000 for awhile. This **** can really drive you nuts.


Just a heads up on the 75F7100. It does NOT have the Cinema Black feature even though this feature is standard in the 7100 line. All other sizes in the line have it. There are owners in the 7100 who have confirmed this.

I know you have/had an 8000 but in case...CB darkens letterbox bars on 2.35:1 content and is one of the primary step up features from the 6400 to the 7100.

I get blasted sometimes for suggesting the 75F6400 which I own, but it's a great set for the price IMO, and obviously way cheaper than the 7100 to say nothing of the 8000.

If you can, try taking Buzz' settings with you to a shop that has it and take a look. If you don't like the PQ, no harm no foul.
post #3148 of 6721
Appreciate the thought. I have seen how you got blasted on other posts. You are just offering useful info and it is welcomed. My problem no one near me has a 75f6400 on display, only the 7100 and 8000. I would have to try it with a 65F6400 if I can find one. Thanks.
post #3149 of 6721
The most important Thing is the Input lag ... is it really fixed now ... or should you wait for the next Episode of TVs in 2014 and hope Input lag is redruced than
post #3150 of 6721
This is my first LED set, so I have a question I don't know about.

I know with Plasmas there is the risk of burn in, but what about with LEDs? The manual says there might be a risk, but I thought these sets didn't have such a problem.

I recently watched two movies (Lincoln and Dredd) and they both had the dreaded (to me) black bars on the top and bottom of the movie. Why they couldn't fill the screen I don't know, but that's another issue.
Anyway, they ran 2 1/2 and 1 3/4 hours respectfully and the whole time I'm watching I'm worried that these bars might damage my screen in the long run.

So, is there a risk of burn in with LEDs and this set in particular and if so how do I make it so such type movies can fill the screen?
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