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Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread - Page 12

post #331 of 6717
Anyone care to comment on whether the F8000 is too much TV if I don't care about the web browsing/apps/bells and whistles? I have a niche built for a 50" plasma, but the LCD bezel allows for a 55". Been researching for a while and I've been waiting for the F8000, but I really only need it for the PQ.

Does anyone know if the other F series models will offer the same PQ with some of the features stripped off?
post #332 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestoneman View Post

Anyone care to comment on whether the F8000 is too much TV if I don't care about the web browsing/apps/bells and whistles? I have a niche built for a 50" plasma, but the LCD bezel allows for a 55". Been researching for a while and I've been waiting for the F8000, but I really only need it for the PQ.

Does anyone know if the other F series models will offer the same PQ with some of the features stripped off?

The lower models have fewer PQ features too, but with all the confusion about what does what, it may be too soon to know.

Have you looked at the new f8500 plasma as well? It may fit your niche also.
post #333 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestoneman View Post

Anyone care to comment on whether the F8000 is too much TV if I don't care about the web browsing/apps/bells and whistles? I have a niche built for a 50" plasma, but the LCD bezel allows for a 55". Been researching for a while and I've been waiting for the F8000, but I really only need it for the PQ.

Does anyone know if the other F series models will offer the same PQ with some of the features stripped off?

+1 to this. It will be interesting to see how the F7500 and F7100 compare.
post #334 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestoneman View Post

Anyone care to comment on whether the F8000 is too much TV if I don't care about the web browsing/apps/bells and whistles? I have a niche built for a 50" plasma, but the LCD bezel allows for a 55". Been researching for a while and I've been waiting for the F8000, but I really only need it for the PQ.

Does anyone know if the other F series models will offer the same PQ with some of the features stripped off?

Having had the F8000 for about a week, I'm starting to think exactly that. I run a HTPC (full on quad core windows PC) to it, which is much better and faster at doing any of the "smart features" I have played with on the TV. Do the extra picture adjustment options make that much of a difference? Perhaps, but not using all of the smart features yet still paying for them is proving a tough pill for me to swallow. Like you mentioned though, the form factor of the unit is really slick....worth an extra several hundred bucks from a 2012 set?...I'm starting to think no.
post #335 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by adrummingdude View Post

Having had the F8000 for about a week, I'm starting to think exactly that. I run a HTPC (full on quad core windows PC) to it, which is much better and faster at doing any of the "smart features" I have played with on the TV. Do the extra picture adjustment options make that much of a difference? Perhaps, but not using all of the smart features yet still paying for them is proving a tough pill for me to swallow. Like you mentioned though, the form factor of the unit is really slick....worth an extra several hundred bucks from a 2012 set?...I'm starting to think no.

I was afraid of that. I know I'll never use all the features, but I want the $ PQ!! Unfortunately, I'm keeping my options open.
post #336 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post


Night Calibration - 32.1 Foot Lamberts max light output

Movie Mode
Backlight 7
Contrast 90
Brightness 45
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 50/50
Picture Size - Screen Fit

White Balance 23 23 25 16 25 27
Gamma -1

Picture Options
Color Temp Warm2

hey Buzz,
I don't have a F8000 myself, but an ES8000. On the ES8000 thread, several guys have done calibrations. For the Movie mode, we saw that peak white is not clipping, even if we increase Contrast to 100 and increase the white balance gain settings until one of the components is hitting a max of 50. Even with these maxed settings, we could keep a perfect greyscale. The advantage is that by doing this, we could increase the ANSI contrast ratio.
The Standard picture mode however is different beast. There we have to keep Contrast setting to around 80 to prevent clipping.

How is this on the F8000? Can you try this out and if the result is the same, what do you think of this method?

For reference, my ES8000 Movie calibration is linked my Signature.
post #337 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by adrummingdude View Post

Having had the F8000 for about a week, I'm starting to think exactly that. I run a HTPC (full on quad core windows PC) to it, which is much better and faster at doing any of the "smart features" I have played with on the TV. Do the extra picture adjustment options make that much of a difference? Perhaps, but not using all of the smart features yet still paying for them is proving a tough pill for me to swallow. Like you mentioned though, the form factor of the unit is really slick....worth an extra several hundred bucks from a 2012 set?...I'm starting to think no.

I have my laptop and my xbox which pretty much offer all of what samsung already offers. I feel that with the issues that were seen on the ES series the PQ on this tv might not be "better" but just have less problems. Although as you mentioned before stuttering is occuring for you and another person. I am going to turn on HGTV tonight see what happens.

*EDIT* hgtv panning shots all began with a stutter step at the begining of each new panning scene.
Edited by adgrimes - 4/5/13 at 11:26am
post #338 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

hey Buzz,
I don't have a F8000 myself, but an ES8000. On the ES8000 thread, several guys have done calibrations. For the Movie mode, we saw that peak white is not clipping, even if we increase Contrast to 100 and increase the white balance gain settings until one of the components is hitting a max of 50. Even with these maxed settings, we could keep a perfect greyscale. The advantage is that by doing this, we could increase the ANSI contrast ratio.
The Standard picture mode however is different beast. There we have to keep Contrast setting to around 80 to prevent clipping.

How is this on the F8000? Can you try this out and if the result is the same, what do you think of this method?

For reference, my ES8000 Movie calibration is linked my Signature.

First of all, the Standard mode isn't working on the F8000 with the present firmware. - http://www.avsforum.com/t/1463286/official-samsung-unxxf8000-owners-thread/300#post_23163014

Movie mode, BL 20 (max), Cont 100 = 84 FtL and no clipping. But what's the point? It won't be watched at this level. "Normal" day viewing is in the 50-60 FtL area and Night should be 30-35. Assuming the display will be watched at some normal light output leaves only the dark end for increasing ANSI contrast, and once you set black level with the Brightness control you live with whatever it measures. The only way to get better black level, and thus higher contrast level, is to buy it.
post #339 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

First of all, the Standard mode isn't working on the F8000 with the present firmware. - http://www.avsforum.com/t/1463286/official-samsung-unxxf8000-owners-thread/300#post_23163014

Movie mode, BL 20 (max), Cont 100 = 84 FtL and no clipping. But what's the point? It won't be watched at this level. "Normal" day viewing is in the 50-60 FtL area and Night should be 30-35. Assuming the display will be watched at some normal light output leaves only the dark end for increasing ANSI contrast, and once you set black level with the Brightness control you live with whatever it measures. The only way to get better black level, and thus higher contrast level, is to buy it.
The way we did it is for a constant peak white, to max Contrast and White Balance Gain and to reduce backlight setting. This minimizes black level and maximizes ANSI contrast for a given peak white. For a given peak white, it also makes flashlighting and clouding less apparent.
post #340 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

The way we did it is for a constant peak white, to max Contrast and White Balance Gain and to reduce backlight setting. This minimizes black level and maximizes ANSI contrast for a given peak white. For a given peak white, it also makes flashlighting and clouding less apparent.

Oh, I get it. Sure, that'll work. Light output will drop too much before you ever get to the point where near black is crushed by reducing the backlight.

Also, you might take a look at lower peak luminance as a target for night (reference) viewing in a dark room. Here's the history. THX raised the recommended Night mode peak from 30 to 35 FtL a few years back for no other reason than people were complaining about the dark picture. Contrarily, studios and post houses do their mastering at 100 and down to as low as 80 Nits (29- 23 FtL), so isn't this the level the director wants the pictured viewed? Actually, yes, it is, BUT, we are used to watching bright, poppy daytime content and when you put on one of today's darker movies your brain keeps looking for all that pop and it isn't there. You have to take a walk outside at night and access the fact that there really isn't a lot of viewing contrast reaching your brain because that's just the way we perceive things in the absence of brighter light. Then you have to ask yourself if you'd get any pleasure watching a movie that looked like "real life". It's up to you, of course, and I'd be the last to say whether it is right or wrong.

In any case, screen size matters. A 41" screen usually needs a bit of a boost, say 35 FtL for night viewing. A 60" screen looks great at 30-35. I watched a 75" LaserVue DLP for three years at 23 FtL peak and never had a complaint. Front projectors should be reflecting 14-16 FtL and Movie theater screens are way lower than that. Yet, they're all watchable. We can argue light source, screen type, reflectivity etc. all day long but, in my opinion, when the dust clears, the larger the screen, the less light required. THX and ISF probably don't want to touch the subject because it brings new complications to calibration and I don't blame them a bit. I find it best to find that particular max luminance level that is comfortable and pleasurable for a given screen and environment, and work on contrast from there.

The simple answer, of course, is to buy an Elite, F8500, VT60, etc. in the first place and then the rest is easy....
post #341 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Movie mode, BL 20 (max), Cont 100 = 84 FtL and no clipping.

Out of the box I noticed some color cast in the greyscale. Reducing contrast a little removed it. So if I would raise contrast I would have to correct it in the white balance, which might give some unwanted effects.

A question for Buzz: the European version (which I own) doen't have a Cal-Day / Cal-Night mode (as the ES8000 and D8000). Guess calibrating isn't popular over here wink.gif

I can only use movie mode. So for calibrating should I go for night, day or somewhere in between settings. Or is using ECO mode an option? Calibrating for day and set minimal BL in the ECO settings, so that I somewhere end in the 30-35 ftl range?
post #342 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedGrant View Post

Out of the box I noticed some color cast in the greyscale. Reducing contrast a little removed it. So if I would raise contrast I would have to correct it in the white balance, which might give some unwanted effects.

A question for Buzz: the European version (which I own) doen't have a Cal-Day / Cal-Night mode (as the ES8000 and D8000). Guess calibrating isn't popular over here wink.gif

I can only use movie mode. So for calibrating should I go for night, day or somewhere in between settings. Or is using ECO mode an option? Calibrating for day and set minimal BL in the ECO settings, so that I somewhere end in the 30-35 ftl range?

Assuming the Euro models work the same as NA, check out this post and take a look at the calibration report. The display is stable enough that the Backlight can be greatly varied without changing the calibration results. Turn Eco OFF.




I just did another one, a complete calibration including 10 point grayscale/gamma and CMS.

The calibration was at backlight 6 which produced:
Full screen Max white 29
ANSI Contrast black .016 white 28 CR 1799

Then I did nothing more than increase the backlight to 14 which yielded:
Full screen Max white 61
ANSI Contrast black .032 white 59 CR 1805

1. In checking a pluge pattern I found no more than 1/2 click difference with the Brightness setting when comparing the two BL settings. - So, no change required.
2. The doubling of the black level was compensated for by a doubling of white so ANSI contrast remained the same.
3. BL 6 in a dark room was visually very much the same as BL 14 in a bright room.

Conclusion: Accurate Day and Night modes are available by using the Picture Mode "Movie" by merely changing the Backlight setting.

On the charts there is no difference: 4Ap F8000 BL6 14 CalibrationSummaryDetailed_AVS.pdf 554k .pdf file Pay no attention to the "average" numbers. 0% Luminance readings were inadvertently included in this version of ChromaPure and will be removed in an upcoming version.
Edited by buzzard767 - 4/5/13 at 10:13am
post #343 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

First of all, the Standard mode isn't working on the F8000 with the present firmware. - http://www.avsforum.com/t/1463286/official-samsung-unxxf8000-owners-thread/300#post_23163014

Movie mode, BL 20 (max), Cont 100 = 84 FtL and no clipping. But what's the point? It won't be watched at this level. "Normal" day viewing is in the 50-60 FtL area and Night should be 30-35. Assuming the display will be watched at some normal light output leaves only the dark end for increasing ANSI contrast, and once you set black level with the Brightness control you live with whatever it measures. The only way to get better black level, and thus higher contrast level, is to buy it.

I wouldn't say standard isn't working - it's working just as Samsung intended it to - it's just not the best mode to use if movie mode can be used with micro-dimming this year.
post #344 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Assuming the Euro models work the same as NA, check out this post and take a look at the calibration report. The display is stable enough that the Backlight can be greatly varied without changing the calibration results. Turn Eco OFF.
.

I'm not a pro calibrator by any means, and I've never had a pro calibration done, but I noticed last year that I could adjust the backlight without throwing off my test patterns on the AVS and WOW discs. I never used Eco. For some reason it was popular in the ES8000 thread and I never understood why.
post #345 of 6717
buzzard,

I think it's safe to say that everyone greatly appreciates all the calibration information you have furnished. I was wondering, however, if you could give a purely subjective opinion of the set. Overall, do you find watching it to be a pleasant experience? Do any of the dimming anomalies or other artifacts that have been mentioned in this thread take away from your enjoyment of the set? How does the set perform in terms of motion when compared to plasmas? Since you clearly have a lot of experience with different TV's, I think your subjective thoughts on the F8000 would be most welcome. Please forgive me if you have already addressed some of these things.
post #346 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I wouldn't say standard isn't working - it's working just as Samsung intended it to - it's just not the best mode to use if movie mode can be used with micro-dimming this year.

The way Samsung intended? What is the intention, to make the screen too dim to see? Look again at what I said: eagle_2 is corrrect. The Standard mode is useless. With all automatic processing turned off, I can set backlight and contrast so that the maximum light out put is 62 Foot Lamberts --- and then watch the luminance slowly decrease all the way down to 6. Don't use it.

62 FtL and then it slowly reduces to 6. What possible "enhancement" could this be.

From the F8000 Owners Manual: Smart LED
This controls the brightness of individual areas on screen to maximum contrast automatically.
This function is not supported depending on the region or model.


Measuring ANSI Contrast with it on or off came out the same. Measuring gamma response was another matter. Smart LED really messed it up.

With the standard tools a calibrator uses nothing good is happening with the Smart mode. I haven't gotten around to running a display profile with LightSpace yet, but I will soon....



Quote:
Originally Posted by gweempose View Post

buzzard,

I think it's safe to say that everyone greatly appreciates all the calibration information you have furnished. I was wondering, however, if you could give a purely subjective opinion of the set. Overall, do you find watching it to be a pleasant experience? Do any of the dimming anomalies or other artifacts that have been mentioned in this thread take away from your enjoyment of the set? How does the set perform in terms of motion when compared to plasmas? Since you clearly have a lot of experience with different TV's, I think your subjective thoughts on the F8000 would be most welcome. Please forgive me if you have already addressed some of these things.

Yes, a pleasant experience. I like the F8000. It calibrates like a dream, but in doing so all contrast enhancement modes need to be off. They're gimmicks and have no place when trying to achieve image fidelity. Motion is nearly up to plasma quality. In testing, the best results were obtained using Picture Options > Auto Motion Plus > Custom > Blur Reduction 10, Judder Reduction 5, and LED Clear Motion Off. The F8000 is the best LCD LED edge lit display I've worked with. At night, a better experience can be had with full array local dimming, but at what price? For day viewing the F8000 is as good as any.

I prefer plasma and am sure that until OLED or some other format becomes mainstream I will continue to like plasma better. However, I will have no problem watching everything from sports to movies on the F8000. High quality content shows it off very well. Not as subjective as you would like but I hope it helps. smile.gif
post #347 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

The way Samsung intended? What is the intention, to make the screen too dim to see? Look again at what I said: eagle_2 is corrrect. The Standard mode is useless. With all automatic processing turned off, I can set backlight and contrast so that the maximum light out put is 62 Foot Lamberts --- and then watch the luminance slowly decrease all the way down to 6. Don't use it.

62 FtL and then it slowly reduces to 6. What possible "enhancement" could this be.

From the F8000 Owners Manual: Smart LED
This controls the brightness of individual areas on screen to maximum contrast automatically.
This function is not supported depending on the region or model.


Measuring ANSI Contrast with it on or off came out the same. Measuring gamma response was another matter. Smart LED really messed it up.

With the standard tools a calibrator uses nothing good is happening with the Smart mode. I haven't gotten around to running a display profile with LightSpace yet, but I will soon....
Yes, a pleasant experience. I like the F8000. It calibrates like a dream, but in doing so all contrast enhancement modes need to be off. They're gimmicks and have no place when trying to achieve image fidelity. Motion is nearly up to plasma quality. In testing, the best results were obtained using Picture Options > Auto Motion Plus > Custom > Blur Reduction 10, Judder Reduction 5, and LED Clear Motion Off. The F8000 is the best LCD LED edge lit display I've worked with. At night, a better experience can be had with full array local dimming, but at what price? For day viewing the F8000 is as good as any.

I prefer plasma and am sure that until OLED or some other format becomes mainstream I will continue to like plasma better. However, I will have no problem watching everything from sports to movies on the F8000. High quality content shows it off very well. Not as subjective as you would like but I hope it helps. smile.gif

I'm not trying to defend Standard mode, or Samsung's horrible auto-dimming techniques. I'm stating that last year Standard was the same way with dimming - it was exceedingly annoying to no end, which is why I used the workaround to get around the dimming, or sometimes used Movie mode. I'm just saying that Standard mode is functional, just like Dynamic mode and Natural mode is functional. You wouldn't use Dynamic mode for blu-rays, would you? Of course not, but you can't say it doesn't work. It just works terribly, just as Samsung designed it.
post #348 of 6717
Any recommendations on PUSHING content from iphone to tv without apple tv through samsung? Smart view blows for IOS users if you wish to share screen or grab screen...really makes me wish I had the Samsung S4 or another android phone. I just prefer to jailbreak my iPhones biggrin.gif

I've seen ZappoTV, Media Link Player, and ArkMC mentioned. I haven't tested any as I am not home.
post #349 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by adgrimes View Post

Any recommendations on PUSHING content from iphone to tv without apple tv through samsung? Smart view blows for IOS users if you wish to share screen or grab screen...really makes me wish I had the Samsung S4 or another android phone. I just prefer to jailbreak my iPhones biggrin.gif

I've seen ZappoTV, Media Link Player, and ArkMC mentioned. I haven't tested any as I am not home.

You can also try media:connect, but it's UI is too complex for me ))

I have Samsung 5300 LED TV 46. To push content I use ArkMC, works good ArkMC finds TV as a DLNA renderer and stream to it. it works with music, pix and video. Just one remark, Samsung Tv doesn't want to playback video from iPhone' local iTunes, cuz it's converted to QuickTime. The same video uploaded to ArkMC documents streams and playbacks fine.
post #350 of 6717
I own a Samsung DLP (HLS5087) that I've been watching for about 7 years. Never had a problem with it, still has a great picture. I think its time for an upgrade, and i'm going to get the 55 f8000 LED. I never owned an LCD or LED before. I have a few questions:
Will I notice a major boost in picture quality?
How is viewing angles? Does the picture still look good when not sitting directly in front of the tv?
When I look at the LCD/LED's at the store (Best Buy), the picture on the tv's look like they have a "silkscreen effect". Is that because of the way the picture is set for the store displays?
How is the 3D?
Does game mode enhance games (PS3, Xbox), like it does in other Samsung tv's? I do a lot of gaming, how is this tv with gaming?
If I watch a sports game, etc., Is there any picture blur or anything when someones running across the screen?
For my first LED tv, is this tv worth getting?
I think that's all my questions. Sorry if some questions are stupid or already answered somewhere else in the thread.
Thank You
Edited by GR1MM - 4/5/13 at 3:20pm
post #351 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by GR1MM View Post

I own a Samsung DLP (HLS5087) that I've been watching for about 7 years. Never had a problem with it, still has a great picture. I think its time for an upgrade, and i'm going to get the 55 f8000 LED. I never owned an LCD or LED before. I have a few questions:
Will I notice a major boost in picture quality?
How is viewing angles? Does the picture still look good when not sitting directly in front of the tv?
When I look at the LCD/LED's at the store (Best Buy), the picture on the tv's look like they have a "silkscreen effect". Is that because of the way the picture is set for the store displays?
How is the 3D?
Does game mode enhance games (PS3, Xbox), like it does in other Samsung tv's?
If I watch a sports game, etc., Is there any picture blur or anything when someones running across the screen?
For my first LED tv, is this tv worth getting?
I think that's all my questions. Sorry if some questions are stupid or already answered somewhere else in the thread.
Thank You

I actually upgraded from the Samsung HLT5087 to this. The picture quality is definitely better. Everything is just so much sharper. Viewing angles aren't as good, though. That's typical of a lot of LCD displays, but Samsung has a slightly poorer showing in this regard. You'll notice blacks getting lighter if you're not directly on center.

3D is excellent on the F8000. I couldn't be happier in that regard.

I can't comment too much on game mode, since I haven't tried that yet. I've kept games in the movie preset. For online Call of Duty matches I'd probably try to get the input lag down, but most everything else? It's been fine.

Using Auto Motion Plus settings, blur is kept to an absolute minimum. It actually looks much clearer than my Samsung DLP. The opening battle scene in The Fellowship of the Ring would give me a headache due to the heavy motion blur as the camera swooped over the Mount Doom battlefield, but not on the F8000.

Whether you should make this your first LED, I'm not quite sure yet. Not every 2013 set has been released and reviewed, so it may be worth waiting to see how other models and brands perform. But I will say you shouldn't be worried about going from your DLP to LED. I made the jump from a very similar model to my F8000 and I'm very happy.
post #352 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

It just works terribly, just as Samsung designed it.

Why would it be designed to slowly push luminance down to nearly nothing? There is no possible reason that I can think of and by the manual it is "●● Standard: This is the default mode." I just looked at a C model and to a much lessor extent it does the same thing. I lived in Japan for a year and saw some strange thought processes but this one takes the cake.

As a calibrator I have never bothered to look at the Standard mode until now and as a calibrator I doubt if I ever will again.....rolleyes.gif
post #353 of 6717
Do the ES8000 remote work with the f8000?
post #354 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by GR1MM View Post

Do the ES8000 remote work with the f8000?

Yes, the ES series remote control works with the F8000 and the D series remote works also.
post #355 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Why would it be designed to slowly push luminance down to nearly nothing? There is no possible reason that I can think of and by the manual it is "●● Standard: This is the default mode." I just looked at a C model and to a much lessor extent it does the same thing. I lived in Japan for a year and saw some strange thought processes but this one takes the cake.

As a calibrator I have never bothered to look at the Standard mode until now and as a calibrator I doubt if I ever will again.....rolleyes.gif

Yup, I agree with you 100% on everything you said. It's really perplexing how Samsung thought having the screen auto-dim to a mere fraction of the light output, based on low-light scenes, regardless of user settings, is a good idea. They really must be unsure of their black level performance if they're still relying on these auto-dimming tricks. It's like that with all modes except Movie and Cal-Night/Day. Natural mode and Dynamic mode is even more useless - they have the same type of crazy dimming, but with even worse forced picture settings. At least Standard mode leaves all the menu options available - Dynamic and Natural take away a large part of the use control (at least it did last year - I'm betting it's the same this year).

That's why I think Movie and Cal-Night/Day will be the only really useable modes for most home-theatre enthusiasts who are interested in the best picture possible. Standard can look great for some types of content, like a game of golf or other brightly-lit sports, but for films, or even tv shows with a variety of scene types, I'd avoid Standard unless the dimming really doesn't bother you.
post #356 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

That's why I think Movie and Cal-Night/Day will be the only really useable modes for most home-theatre enthusiasts who are interested in the best picture possible. Standard can look great for some types of content, like a game of golf or other brightly-lit sports, but for films, or even tv shows with a variety of scene types, I'd avoid Standard unless the dimming really doesn't bother you.

I'm not sure if enabling Cal-Night/Day is worth sacrificing warranty with Samsung?

*edit*
My TV is on the wall to close to see but I'm curious for the US guys...next to the serial number, what model panel number is it?

With at least one calibration done, can someone do the math and post up the actual contrast values?
post #357 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Natural mode and Dynamic mode is even more useless - they have the same type of crazy dimming, but with even worse forced picture settings. At least Standard mode leaves all the menu options available - Dynamic and Natural take away a large part of the use control (at least it did last year - I'm betting it's the same this year).

For us Europeans they even created a new mode called Sports mode. No picture control at all, color temperature at, let's say 15K, light output that high, that even your neighbors don't need their lights turned on. Guess the Koreans think we all have our own private pub / bar wink.gif
post #358 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by adgrimes View Post

I'm not sure if enabling Cal-Night/Day is worth sacrificing warranty with Samsung?

*edit*
My TV is on the wall to close to see but I'm curious for the US guys...next to the serial number, what model panel number is it?

With at least one calibration done, can someone do the math and post up the actual contrast values?

Please show the reference where Samsung says Cal-Day & Night voids the warranty. The modes are available, just like ISFccc in Panasonic, Sharp, and Pioneer Kuro for calibrators to get the most out of the display.

I've posted contrast numbers several times in this thread.
post #359 of 6717
Here is a "view" of the F8000 that I don't think I have previously shown so I'll walk you through the attached Advanced Color Management Report.

HDMI1 1D AdvancedColorManagementReport_AVS.pdf 415k .pdf file

Pages 1&2:
The first chart is CIE Chromaticity. This F8000 was traditionally calibrated using the 100% color saturation points as the basis. The chart shows the measurements of the primary and secondary colors at 100, 75, 50, and 25% saturation. The White point is in the middle and the way color saturation is decreased is by adding varying amounts of White to color.

Most consumer displays are not very linear and an average saturation CIE chart looks something like this:



As can be seen in the attachment, the F8000 is very linear, much more so than normal which is obviously a good thing.

The saturations luminance chart shows that luminance is within a 5% deviation and that is the goal. Saturation dE chart - dE of 3.0 or less is visually indiscernible by the human eye from perfect. Again, excellent results.

Page 3:
The Amplitudes dE chart shows that the F8000 amplitude tracking is not good at all. What is being measured at the 100% saturation point is how bright the color is relative to what it is supposed to be as input stimulus is reduced. For example, take Red at 100% saturation and reduce the brightness to 75%. The chart shows that the dE which was very good at 100% brightness with a dE of about .5 is increased to a poor dE of over 13 when stimulus is reduced to 75%.

What to do?
About a year ago ChromaPure calibration software enabled the ability to calibrate using 75% saturation patterns as well as 100%. This makes perfect sense as many (most) consumer displays are not capable of reaching all of the 100% points anyway so when using the display controls in an effort to reach them many aspects of the picture are pulled away from standards. Most content is in the 25 to 75% range anyway so calibrating at 75% brings out the "duh?" factor. I calibrated the F8000 at 75% saturation and the result can be seen on this report. vive la différence....

6Apr 75 Sat Cal AdvancedColorManagementReport_AVS.pdf 386k .pdf file

If you are having your F8000 professionally calibrated you might want to refer him or her to this post before you spend your money.

Amplitudes dE with display calibrated at 100% color saturation relative to 75%
post #360 of 6717
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Here is a "view" of the F8000 that I don't think I have previously shown so I'll walk you through the attached Advanced Color Management Report.

HDMI1 1D AdvancedColorManagementReport_AVS.pdf 415k .pdf file

Pages 1&2:
The first chart is CIE Chromaticity. This F8000 was traditionally calibrated using the 100% color saturation points as the basis. The chart shows the measurements of the primary and secondary colors at 100, 75, 50, and 25% saturation. The White point is in the middle and the way color saturation is decreased is by adding varying amounts of White to color.

Most consumer displays are not very linear and an average saturation CIE chart looks something like this:



As can be seen in the attachment, the F8000 is very linear, much more so than normal which is obviously a good thing.

The saturations luminance chart shows that luminance is within a 5% deviation and that is the goal. Saturation dE chart - dE of 3.0 or less is visually indiscernible by the human eye from perfect. Again, excellent results.

Page 3:
The Amplitudes dE chart shows that the F8000 amplitude tracking is not good at all. What is being measured at the 100% saturation point is how bright the color is relative to what it is supposed to be as input stimulus is reduced. For example, take Red at 100% saturation and reduce the brightness to 75%. The chart shows that the dE which was very good at 100% brightness with a dE of about .5 is increased to a poor dE of over 13 when stimulus is reduced to 75%.

What to do?
About a year ago ChromaPure calibration software enabled the ability to calibrate using 75% saturation patterns as well as 100%. This makes perfect sense as many (most) consumer displays are not capable of reaching all of the 100% points anyway so when using the display controls in an effort to reach them many aspects of the picture are pulled away from standards. Most content is in the 25 to 75% range anyway so calibrating at 75% brings out the "duh?" factor. I calibrated the F8000 at 75% saturation and the result can be seen on this report. vive la différence....

6Apr 75 Sat Cal AdvancedColorManagementReport_AVS.pdf 386k .pdf file

If you are having your F8000 professionally calibrated you might want to refer him or her to this post before you spend your money.

Amplitudes dE with display calibrated at 100% color saturation relative to 75%

First, really apreciate your effords to improve the PQ to the no pro's. Second, although I want to calibrate the TV's as good as I can I suffer really hard on stuttering/juttering problems found on older models (I found ES impossible to watch due the continous juttering on sports shows).
How bad are this effects on this year ? Can anyone upload to youtube some tests with soccer,golf or tennis? Sports are usually is the best way to detect all this problems. How bad are this year's sets?
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