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Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread - Page 116

post #3451 of 6780
Hi Aceman,

The glare will be an issue , however once the F8000 is on and you start watching it , you will soon dismiss the glare.

But when you turn it off , it will look like a mirror ! , it`s weird , I see the glare and reflections when it`s off , they don`t go away just because you turn on the tv , but I am not distracted by it.

OK-- did I help !! ? biggrin.gif

Later ,

Me 
post #3452 of 6780
Hi there, everyone. I've got what can only be described as a great problem to have. Trying to decide between the Samsung 8000 (in 55 or 60) or the Sony W900A (comes in 55 but not 60).

Because the Samsung line had been running about +$500 to the Sony in the 55-inch, I'd been settling into the Sony and have read some great comments on this thread, other AVS threads and other sites. But now BB looks like they might be lowering the Samsungs a bit pre-holiday. Who knows, maybe the Sony's will follow. Since the price gap has narrowed, I'm confused and revisiting what I thought was a 99% final decision!

It will be in the living room (replacing a 46 inch Samsung mid-tier 240hz). Wall opposite of the TV is all windows. That's new for us (relocated the TV with a fun wiring project) and we're concerned about glare.

Doesn't seem like I can go wrong with either, but would love to hear anybody's strongest case for or against one or the other. Love the site and the posts. Seems like the community hear is my best chance for objective info.

My own view: I've dismissed the 7000 series of Samsungs. Love the aesthetic of both the 900A and Samsung 8000. I certainly don't need any of the voice control or video gestures. Regarding "smart" tech...the TV functions are terribly important to me. We have AppleTV, getting a Roku soon, Blu-ray, too. So we use netflix/hulu through those, and Roku lets you get to other apps. Main hub of the house is the Dish Hopper, which is great so far.

Of course, I could just say I need a 60 inch and then I'd be done!

Many thanks.
post #3453 of 6780
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post

Hi Angelp1977 ,

Yes , those setting that I listed are being used in the Standard Mode.

I have tried the same settings in the Movie mode and it just does not work for me.

Out of curiosity have the exact same settings in all 4 modes , and still Standard looks best.

Good luck with your new Samsung , I should tell you in advance that there support is garbage ( even worst than that , but public forum and all ) , when you call the help number they know nothing about the Samsung products.

If you run into a pinch , post on this thread for help or just PM in emergency wink.gif

Later smile.gif

Gary 

jedi29,

Thanks again for the info as I can get way more out of this thread than anywhere else, and your are right about Samsung support...its down right terrible!!!
post #3454 of 6780
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aceman View Post

Folks -

I have a question on Glare. I'm giving my sony KDS-60A3000 (RPTV sxrd) to my inlaws, and getting either the Samsung 65UN8000 or the sony KDL65W850.
I haven't seen either in a home environment yet but have in my setup, the TV will be appx 14-15FT from 12FT wide x 8FT tall sliding doors.

How bad is the glare for those of you who have it facing windows/sunlight?

thx in advance

Aceman

Saying that you have much less than favorable lighting situation might be a gross understatement.  You might want to think about investing in blackout curtains.

If the window is to the side, ur OK, can adjust backlight to make up for lots of light, as I do during the day (lots of windows but to the sides).  Even at that, I have blackout curtains if I want to do serious daytime watching.  But if window directly facing the TV straight on  :(

 

PS:  You dislike your in-laws so much, to give them an RPTV ?  :p 

post #3455 of 6780
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post

Hi Aceman,

The glare will be an issue , however once the F8000 is on and you start watching it , you will soon dismiss the glare.

But when you turn it off , it will look like a mirror ! , it`s weird , I see the glare and reflections when it`s off , they don`t go away just because you turn on the tv , but I am not distracted by it.

OK-- did I help !! ? biggrin.gif

Later ,

Me 

It is a mirror.  reflections totally bother me.

post #3456 of 6780
Quote:
Originally Posted by sideout99 View Post
 

It is a mirror.  reflections totally bother me.

Straight on

 

 

 

From side, seeing the windows

 

post #3457 of 6780
Quote:
Originally Posted by New2HD View Post

Hi there, everyone. I've got what can only be described as a great problem to have. Trying to decide between the Samsung 8000 (in 55 or 60) or the Sony W900A (comes in 55 but not 60).

Because the Samsung line had been running about +$500 to the Sony in the 55-inch, I'd been settling into the Sony and have read some great comments on this thread, other AVS threads and other sites. But now BB looks like they might be lowering the Samsungs a bit pre-holiday. Who knows, maybe the Sony's will follow. Since the price gap has narrowed, I'm confused and revisiting what I thought was a 99% final decision!

It will be in the living room (replacing a 46 inch Samsung mid-tier 240hz). Wall opposite of the TV is all windows. That's new for us (relocated the TV with a fun wiring project) and we're concerned about glare.

Doesn't seem like I can go wrong with either, but would love to hear anybody's strongest case for or against one or the other. Love the site and the posts. Seems like the community hear is my best chance for objective info.

My own view: I've dismissed the 7000 series of Samsungs. Love the aesthetic of both the 900A and Samsung 8000. I certainly don't need any of the voice control or video gestures. Regarding "smart" tech...the TV functions are terribly important to me. We have AppleTV, getting a Roku soon, Blu-ray, too. So we use netflix/hulu through those, and Roku lets you get to other apps. Main hub of the house is the Dish Hopper, which is great so far.

Of course, I could just say I need a 60 inch and then I'd be done!

Many thanks.

I agree, I also dismissed the 7100 from consideration. The microdimming was lacking compared to the 8000. I just bought the 9000 though, the 8000 looked fantastic (albeit in torch mode at BB) and blew away the 7100 below it. There's a reason it costs less, my wife doesnt nit pick but I cant avoid looking for defects after reading AVS lol.

I did see the Sony, just wasnt my thing. Although I do have to admit some brand loyalty to Samsung.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
post #3458 of 6780
Quote:
Originally Posted by upstate-avfan-da View Post

I agree, I also dismissed the 7100 from consideration. The microdimming was lacking compared to the 8000. I just bought the 9000 though, the 8000 looked fantastic (albeit in torch mode at BB) and blew away the 7100 below it. There's a reason it costs less, my wife doesnt nit pick but I cant avoid looking for defects after reading AVS lol.

I did see the Sony, just wasnt my thing. Although I do have to admit some brand loyalty to Samsung.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Congrats on the 9000 purchase! Thanks for the post. Went to BB to check it out again tonight. Samsung looks great. I had the BB guy (actually a samsung rep) turn up the brightness on the Sony but it still didn't get as bright. But then again I just don't even know if I want a set that bright in my living room! I'm more confused than ever. The glare comments above concern me. We will have a wall of windows directly opposite the TV. Good wooden blinds but still a halo of light, and we don't like keeping them totally closed all day.

What to do, what to do...
post #3459 of 6780
Quote:
Originally Posted by bulgolgiman View Post

^^Why do you think it won't work?

I don't understand why I couldn't get the xbox one to push out surround sound. I was playing bf4, had in game audio settings set at home cinema[5.1] and I couldn't set xbox's main audio settings to push 5.1 via hdmi to tv as it saw it as an incompatible source...new console/ui must have changed something.

On PS4 I was able to actually set the audio settings up right but again through digital audio out, I was unable to receive 5.1 or select dobly digital under samsung tv digital audio output settings.
post #3460 of 6780
Quote:
Originally Posted by New2HD View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by upstate-avfan-da View Post

I agree, I also dismissed the 7100 from consideration. The microdimming was lacking compared to the 8000. I just bought the 9000 though, the 8000 looked fantastic (albeit in torch mode at BB) and blew away the 7100 below it. There's a reason it costs less, my wife doesnt nit pick but I cant avoid looking for defects after reading AVS lol.

I did see the Sony, just wasnt my thing. Although I do have to admit some brand loyalty to Samsung.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Congrats on the 9000 purchase! Thanks for the post. Went to BB to check it out again tonight. Samsung looks great. I had the BB guy (actually a samsung rep) turn up the brightness on the Sony but it still didn't get as bright. But then again I just don't even know if I want a set that bright in my living room! I'm more confused than ever. The glare comments above concern me. We will have a wall of windows directly opposite the TV. Good wooden blinds but still a halo of light, and we don't like keeping them totally closed all day.

What to do, what to do...

Ouch, windows are the enemy for glare on these sets. We have a relatively dim room since theres just 1 source of daylight on the side via sliding door but have a heavy curtain there.

I like to keep brightness down hoping it will elongate the lifespan of the backlight so brighter the potential, less I have to crank it.

I was in no way displeased with the 8000 on the wall but just so much more wowed by the UHD content I was willing to give up the extra 10". The 8000 looked like a stellar performer, although the demo running didnt let me compare panel uniformity, a brief black screen looked ok.

The wife also was a deciding factor.... no upgrades for a very long time. Figured 4K will buy me enough time to keep up for a while. I hope. :-P

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
post #3461 of 6780
Well the room is configured that way now. We just changed it over the last few weeks. For 4 years we had it set up where it wasn't a problem...but wanted a bigger set so we re-oriented the room, kicking off a major project including wiring moves and a new cabinet for the TV. Right now we have a 46-inch Samsung opposite those same windows and it isn't a problem really. It's about 3 years old. This is probably a silly question but any reason to think the glare would be worse on the new sets than on my old 46-incher?

Sounds like you should be "future proof" with your 4K. Hopefully you don't agonize too much as you watch the price fall but hey that happens to all of us!
post #3462 of 6780
Quote:
Originally Posted by New2HD View Post

Well the room is configured that way now. We just changed it over the last few weeks. For 4 years we had it set up where it wasn't a problem...but wanted a bigger set so we re-oriented the room, kicking off a major project including wiring moves and a new cabinet for the TV. Right now we have a 46-inch Samsung opposite those same windows and it isn't a problem really. It's about 3 years old. This is probably a silly question but any reason to think the glare would be worse on the new sets than on my old 46-incher?

Sounds like you should be "future proof" with your 4K. Hopefully you don't agonize too much as you watch the price fall but hey that happens to all of us!

Its the price of admission for early adopters lol.

I dont think worse, but more surface area = more potential glare areas. Just be mindful of the light and be happy enjoying a new set. I think the best you can do is mitigate the incoming light and just close the blinds during tv time.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
post #3463 of 6780
Received my 65inch F8000 today, replacing the F7100 and I am truly impressed with this set, what a major upgrade, no clouding or flash-lighting whatsoever and for an Led very impressive...now to mess with the picture settings...not that they need much...I do have a couple of questions, such as what is the smart led function and cinema black, settings I believe I did not have on the previous model.
post #3464 of 6780
Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelp1977 View Post

Received my 65inch F8000 today, replacing the F7100 and I am truly impressed with this set, what a major upgrade, no clouding or flash-lighting whatsoever and for an Led very impressive...now to mess with the picture settings...not that they need much...I do have a couple of questions, such as what is the smart led function and cinema black, settings I believe I did not have on the previous model.

Cinema black is a function to dim the backlight during letterbox format. It keeps the focus of contrast on the main picture, additional function of the microdimming over the 7100.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
post #3465 of 6780

Picked up a UN46F8000 yesterday, and I'm having an issue that I'm hoping some your fine UNXXF8000 experts can help me solve!

 

I am a gamer, and this Samsung HDTV is both my PC screen and my console screen. It sits on my desk as if it were a PC monitor. I plug my PC and my game consoles into a Yamaha Aventage receiver, and then output the video to my Samsung TV. For PC gaming, in order to reduce input lag and run with 1:1 pixel mapping, I have the HDMI input set to "PC." That mode works completely as advertised. Where it gets weird is when I try to play my new PS4 or Xbox One systems. The ONLY way I can maintain 1:1 pixel mapping with these consoles (or my PC) is to keep the HDMI input set to PC. If I change the input name to anything else - even if I set the Picture Size to "Screen Fit" - I am clearly not getting 1:1 pixel mapping. It's close, but it definitely isn't 1:1. Screen Fit is better than 16:9, but both introduce some blurriness and aliasing that vanish in PC mode.  

 

I could stay in PC mode at all times for all content, and I may ultimately do that, but I also watch HD movies on this TV, and I'd like to be able to use some of the TV's advanced features for that purpose, almost all of which are automatically disabled in PC mode.

 

I have tried connecting my PS4 via HDMI directly into the TV instead of the receiver to see if that makes a difference, but it doesn't - with my PS4 plugged directly into the TV, HDMI input set to Game, Picture Size set to Screen Fit, this thing is not giving me true 1:1 pixel mapping. The only way to get 1:1 seems to be setting the HDMI input to PC.  

 

What's going on here? Am I doing something wrong? Am I setting something incorrectly?

 

Many thanks in advance!


Edited by Vedermunch - 11/25/13 at 10:37pm
post #3466 of 6780
Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelp1977 View Post

Received my 65inch F8000 today, replacing the F7100 and I am truly impressed with this set, what a major upgrade, no clouding or flash-lighting whatsoever and for an Led very impressive...now to mess with the picture settings...not that they need much...I do have a couple of questions, such as what is the smart led function and cinema black, settings I believe I did not have on the previous model.

What panel type did you get? (TS01)
post #3467 of 6780
I just got a 65F8000 yesterday and am being blown away by the picture. A question on remotes. It came with two, a "regular" type and the touch-pad version. I got the touch pad working pretty well as a universal remote with the TV, set-top box, Blu-ray player and sound bar. The TV IF receiving port, I discovered, is in the little cube that plugs into the back of the set. I suspect that the equipment, such as the set-top box, could be out of sight as long as this cube is still visible to my remote, right?

My wife started playing with the "regular" remote and found that it was very sluggish compared to the touch-pad. Sometimes commands had to be entered several times before they took hold. Any ideas what I am doing wrong?
post #3468 of 6780
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vedermunch View Post
 

Picked up a UN46F8000 yesterday, and I'm having an issue that I'm hoping some your fine UNXXF8000 experts can help me solve!

 

I am a gamer, and this Samsung HDTV is both my PC screen and my console screen. It sits on my desk as if it were a PC monitor. I plug my PC and my game consoles into a Yamaha Aventage receiver, and then output the video to my Samsung TV. For PC gaming, in order to reduce input lag and run with 1:1 pixel mapping, I have the HDMI input set to "PC." That mode works completely as advertised. Where it gets weird is when I try to play my new PS4 or Xbox One systems. The ONLY way I can maintain 1:1 pixel mapping with these consoles (or my PC) is to keep the HDMI input set to PC. If I change the input name to anything else - even if I set the Picture Size to "Screen Fit" - I am clearly not getting 1:1 pixel mapping. It's close, but it definitely isn't 1:1. Screen Fit is better than 16:9, but both introduce some blurriness and aliasing that vanish in PC mode.  

 

I could stay in PC mode at all times for all content, and I may ultimately do that, but I also watch HD movies on this TV, and I'd like to be able to use some of the TV's advanced features for that purpose, almost all of which are automatically disabled in PC mode.

 

I have tried connecting my PS4 via HDMI directly into the TV instead of the receiver to see if that makes a difference, but it doesn't - with my PS4 plugged directly into the TV, HDMI input set to Game, Picture Size set to Screen Fit, this thing is not giving me true 1:1 pixel mapping. The only way to get 1:1 seems to be setting the HDMI input to PC.  

 

What's going on here? Am I doing something wrong? Am I setting something incorrectly?

 

Many thanks in advance!

 

 

Hey, I'm unable to answer your question but I have a question for you. How is gaming on this TV? Everyone is saying that input lag either has/hasn't been fixed. How do you feel the TV reacts to when you hit a button on the controller? Any input?

post #3469 of 6780
Quote:
Originally Posted by AncientAlien View Post



What panel type did you get? (TS01)

Didn't get a chance to look at it, but have to say, this is one of those few LED's where the issues I mentioned were no problem...excellent panel.
post #3470 of 6780
Anybody know what the panel lottery is like for the un60f8000? Does samsung even make 60 inch panels or do they only make up to 55?

I'm deciding bw a 60f8000, 55f9000, or Sony w900a.
post #3471 of 6780
Quote:
Hey, I'm unable to answer your question but I have a question for you. How is gaming on this TV? Everyone is saying that input lag either has/hasn't been fixed. How do you feel the TV reacts to when you hit a button on the controller? Any input?

 

I haven't done much testing yet in modes other than Game or PC, but in those modes there appears to be very little lag. I bought this model specifically because the MS store near me was using them to demo Xbox One to the public and I was totally blown away by the image quality vs. my older Samsung 40" HDTV. 

post #3472 of 6780
Should say on back sticker under model#.
If you can't get to the back because of mounting or no access it's cool. You have it in Standard?
post #3473 of 6780
Hi all,

Quick question should I use film auto 1 or 2 when watching regular cable...and what is the difference, thanks.
post #3474 of 6780
Hi All,

Anyone able to advise what is the difference between a UN55F8000AFxxx and UN55F8000BFxxx
I am seeign both advertised, but cannot figure out what is the difference if any.
Is it the panel, or model coding from across the pond.

Thanks in advice to all.

Regards
post #3475 of 6780

This might help from Amazon:- formatting did not come across but search un55F6300 he posted it there as well for other models.

 

~~Ultimate Samsung TV Model Number Guide This "review" is less of a review and more of a guide you can use to decipher what the model numbers mean. It took me a while to do this research so I hope it helps others on their quest for a new TV. I'm going to use one of the currently best selling ones on amazon as an example - see link below. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0074FGNJ6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0074FGNJ6&linkCode=as2&tag=stupisms-20 U refers to the technology (U: LED LCD, L: CCFL LCD, P: Plasma) - generally everything in 2013 and newer will be U because it's more power efficient. N refers to North America 46 refers to the size. Size options vary by series and include 19,22,29,32,40,46,50,55,60,65,70,75,85. Yes that's an 85 at the end. If you buy one of these please invite me to your house for the Superbowl, I'll bring beer. Check it out below. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMEN95U/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00CMEN95U&linkCode=as2&tag=stupisms-20 E refers to the year of manufacture (F:2013, E:2012, D:2011, C:2010, etc) H (if present) refers to the type of backlighting (H: Sidelit, S: backlit) 5300 refers to the series. A 2013 Samsung guide for features of all series is found here [...] My example model didn't have any model suffix but if you see an FXZA it refers to the place it was sold. For US model TV's you will see this sometimes.

post #3476 of 6780
Hi all,

I'll be recieving my 55F8000 next week and after reading this thread I am a little bit scared about clouding, backlight bleeding or banding.
This is gonna be my first LED, so could anybody help me with this issue ? Should I used a specific program to check this stuff or will I noticed just turning the tv on ?
I read something about "AVC HD CALIBRATION DISC", will this help ?
Thanks in advance for the help !!
post #3477 of 6780
You'll be able to see it on darker content, (HARRY POTTER). I don't have the set but want it and I'm also worried. CNET said it's all good unless you don't have local dimming activated but different panel type could be the reason some have uniformity issues and some don't. I've read TS01 and TS02 panels are best and CH01-02 aren't as good. Based on my experience with Samsung I agree.
post #3478 of 6780

I think the worrying my be a bit overplayed.  Or maybe I was lucky.  No dead or stuck pixels.  Some minor flashlighting on dark scenes.  I don't really notice any banding or uniformity issues.  My panel is US02.  I love my TV, UN65F8000.  Great colors, crisp and vivid picture (mine on Movie mode with Buzz's settings, tweaked a little).  

Very nice blacks without loss of detail. Now I just sit and enjoy it, stopped looking for flaws.  Had it about 2 weeks.  And, after break in I believe I notice a much nicer picture.

post #3479 of 6780
It's certainly NOT overplayed when your dropping or considering dropping a few thousand on a TV and you double checking to make sure you're not wasting money. Most members on here are very anal about there tvs, it's a curse. I'm ok with minor flashlighting so hopefully the f8000 is just that, minor.
post #3480 of 6780
Quote:
Originally Posted by AncientAlien View Post

It's certainly NOT overplayed when your dropping or considering dropping a few thousand on a TV and you double checking to make sure you're not wasting money. Most members on here are very anal about there tvs, it's a curse. I'm ok with minor flashlighting so hopefully the f8000 is just that, minor.

OH, I am anal too.  The first week examining my PQ constantly.  Like I said,m maybe I got lucking.  But after a week, no real issues, other than the inherent nature of LED/LCD, am able to just enjoy it.  Didn't mean to totally downplay the overplaying anality  LOL

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