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Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread - Page 144

post #4291 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

What meter do you have? Are they expensive? Would you say it's worth the investment to get a meter or is just adjusting picture settings by eye good enough to get close to a calibrated picture?

Personally, I would never own an uncalibrated display as my main display. I'm just too anal about accurate PQ. Adjusting by eye doesn't even come close to cutting it for me. Same goes for calibration using only the consumer calibration discs (i.e. Disney WOW, Avia, DVE, etc). The problem is, you can never adjust greyscale accurately without a meter - and greyscale is the most important adjustment to achieve an accurate picture. Color/Tint are "close enough" most of the time and you can get away with the blue filters that come with the calibration discs or just leave them at their defaults (i.e. "50"). I can't enjoy an unbalanced greyscale with inaccurate flesh tones however. But that's just me.

I have an this meter: http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-EODIS3-i1Display-Pro/dp/B0055MBQOW

With the above meter, you can use the free HCFR software and the free AVS HD disc (you must download and burn to a dvd) to get an accurate greyscale calibration in a matter of minutes. There's a thread in the calibration sub-forum about the new HCFR branch that some AVS members have been working on and the software now supports the i1 Display Pro meter.

I use Calman software, but that costs another couple hundred bucks. HCFR is fine for a basic greyscale adjustment however - I've used it plenty of times in the past. There is a learning curve to doing software calibrations with a meter, but there are guides online to help with that.
post #4292 of 6714
Well no one would enjoy inaccurate fleshtones but the adjustments I have made by eye with just the two point white balance have made a substantial difference in fleshtones and the picture looks very neutral in tints. It looks very convincing at times, particularly the Aussie Open.

I just can't help but feeling that spending a few hundred dollars would only warrant marginal improvements from what I'm currently experiencing.
post #4293 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

Well no one would enjoy inaccurate fleshtones but the adjustments I have made by eye with just the two point white balance have made a substantial difference in fleshtones and the picture looks very neutral in tints. It looks very convincing at times, particularly the Aussie Open.

I just can't help but feeling that spending a few hundred dollars would only warrant marginal improvements from what I'm currently experiencing.

Yeah, it's a personal decision and the improvements may in fact be marginal. If you're enjoying your display, don't worry about it!

Of course, you could always pick up a used meter for around $200 on eBay or Amazon, calibrate your greyscale with the free HCFR software and then sell the meter for $200 + eBay/Amazon fees when you're done. You could do the same with a new meter but you'll obviously take a slightly larger hit. Depending on if you go new or used, you'd be looking at something like a $30-$80 calibration instead of a $250 one if you don't want to keep the meter once you're finished. smile.gif
post #4294 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

I have the TS01 panel. I wish someone with calibration equipment had the different panel versions side by side to tell if there were any picture quality differences between them. A Samsung support rep told me that panels of the same prefix are physically the same panel. So TS01 and TS02 are physically identical and therefore have the same picture properties. Not sure if there is much truth to that statement. I do know there was a Samsung panel thread that had precise details as to what the version numbers indicate but not much that applies to the more recent F8000. No one may ever know the real differences.

 

Even if someone had the two panels side by side and were calibrated it still wouldn't amount to a hill of beans since every display is different to each other. My calibration numbers are going to look totally different on your display just as someone else's would look on mine. And I can honestly say and I'm sure others that have their display calibrated will tell you, all of these extra "features" on this set ruins the picture quality after it has been calibrated. The Smart LED feature screws up the calibrated contrast and brightness.

post #4295 of 6714
I meant differences as in native contrast ratio, motion handling, peak white performance, etc. Basically differences that would be attributed to differences in the hardware, not differences in calibrated settings. The differences would be marginal of the same panel version but there could be some performance improvements Samsung has made in the later versions of the F8000 such as better contrast/deeper black level. Even viewing angles could be different if they are using a newer panel.

I was talking about those types of differences, which only someone with a spectrometer and good eye would be able to tell. And the Smart LED as far as I know only changes the gamma consistencies at times in favor of deeper blacks. Small price to pay when watching at night when the black level is most noticeable. I welcome Smart LED for that reason. There is a X Games commercial where a snow boarder jumps through a pitch black night background and the shade of black Smart LED gives is very impressive to see.
post #4296 of 6714
Does anyone know if its possible to calibrate warm1 to the 6500k standards?
post #4297 of 6714
It depends on what settings are available to you using Warm 1, which I assume is a preset.

Jkozlow3 has the right idea about calibrating. You can make some very nice pq adjustments using a calibration disk alone but the best you can do is just accurately adjust some of the settings to be close to the REC.709 standards. For a lot of people this is good enough. For a true calibration you need a good, calibrated meter, specialized software, and lots of time. There is a steep learning curve if you've never calibrated before.
post #4298 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptMike View Post

1. The version of the panel is on the white or silver sticker on the back, on the lower right side

2. What difference will it make to you, other than just knowing what version it is? If it's it's not your desired panel...what are you going to do about it?

Well just for compariison to other people on the forum. If I have a panel that people say are excellent and im saying mine is not good then something might be wrong. If I have a different panel to everyone else this panel could be one that exhibits poor picture quality.

I'm comparing to the first set that I had and the pic quality was great but sadly I forgot to check the sticker before returning. With this set I have messed around with all the settings and still get a picture thats less sharper, more noisier and overall the picture lacks contrast and definition compared to the first set
post #4299 of 6714
What did the update 1117 consist off?
post #4300 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by dekesh View Post


Well just for compariison to other people on the forum. If I have a panel that people say are excellent and im saying mine is not good then something might be wrong. If I have a different panel to everyone else this panel could be one that exhibits poor picture quality.

I'm comparing to the first set that I had and the pic quality was great but sadly I forgot to check the sticker before returning. With this set I have messed around with all the settings and still get a picture thats less sharper, more noisier and overall the picture lacks contrast and definition compared to the first set

But that doesn't mean that the problem is the panel. You could have a bad board or a bad circuit. Been there, done that on this very TV. Call a tech have it looked at or return it.

post #4301 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

I meant differences as in native contrast ratio, motion handling, peak white performance, etc. Basically differences that would be attributed to differences in the hardware, not differences in calibrated settings. The differences would be marginal of the same panel version but there could be some performance improvements Samsung has made in the later versions of the F8000 such as better contrast/deeper black level. Even viewing angles could be different if they are using a newer panel.

I was talking about those types of differences, which only someone with a spectrometer and good eye would be able to tell. And the Smart LED as far as I know only changes the gamma consistencies at times in favor of deeper blacks. Small price to pay when watching at night when the black level is most noticeable. I welcome Smart LED for that reason. There is a X Games commercial where a snow boarder jumps through a pitch black night background and the shade of black Smart LED gives is very impressive to see.

 

You are a tinkerer aren't you? Just save up get your set calibrated, and enjoy the dang thing.


Edited by IamGman75 - 1/23/14 at 3:51am
post #4302 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by seansingh7326 View Post

Does anyone know if its possible to calibrate warm1 to the 6500k standards?

 

The gentleman that calibrated mine said warm2 was the best.

post #4303 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by gbriel View Post

My old firmware was 1102. I upgraded to 1113.3. HD quality is terrible on 1113.3. It is realy very bad. Is it like that on everybody? I have some friends and they all have this problem. I am very disappointed.

Hairs were very clear before 1113.3 upgrade. Now it is very blury

My TV is 46f8000. Samsung says no problem with new firmware but they are lier. I know 8 different person who are very disappointed with this new firmware. SD channels are a bit better, but hd quality is realy worse. What do u think?

This sounds like the same problem that some of the plasma owners were experiencing.

Take a look at post 2880 in this thread and see if performing the procedure described clears up your picture. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1475066/official-samsung-pnxxf8500-owners-thread-no-street-price-talk/2850
post #4304 of 6714
I just got word that my new 65F8000 will be here tomorrow between 9 and 1. Can anyone tell me whether or not it is OK for the TV to be shipped laying flat or whether it must remain upright?
post #4305 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeDoctor View Post

I just got word that my new 65F8000 will be here tomorrow between 9 and 1. Can anyone tell me whether or not it is OK for the TV to be shipped laying flat or whether it must remain upright?

You may get different opinions on this, but personally, if it was laying flat when they opened the truck door, I'd tell them to take it back. That's not how the TV is supposed to be transported and that puts a lot of stress on the screen/components IMO.

That said, I doubt it'll be laying flat. Shipping companies should know better.
Edited by jkozlow3 - 1/23/14 at 8:27am
post #4306 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeDoctor View Post

I just got word that my new 65F8000 will be here tomorrow between 9 and 1. Can anyone tell me whether or not it is OK for the TV to be shipped laying flat or whether it must remain upright?

Upright always.
post #4307 of 6714
Thanks, that's good to know. By chance, do you know whether the box is marked to indicate upright only? Guess I'd like something to point to in order to support my reason for sending it back should that be necessary.
post #4308 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeDoctor View Post

Thanks, that's good to know. By chance, do you know whether the box is marked to indicate upright only? Guess I'd like something to point to in order to support my reason for sending it back should that be necessary.

Yes, there are some small arrows on the box that point "up" and some various drawings that show how to/not to transport the TV.
post #4309 of 6714
Great! Thanks a lot.
post #4310 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeDoctor View Post

Thanks, that's good to know. By chance, do you know whether the box is marked to indicate upright only? Guess I'd like something to point to in order to support my reason for sending it back should that be necessary.

So when I order mine from Amazon and I make sure I'm there when UPS or FedEx delivers it, If I see it laying on it's side I will tell the driver that I will not accept it. He then will ask why. and I say "Because it was not loaded correctly on the truck" Then what? I call Amazon to state I did not accept it or call the shipping company to say that it was loaded incorrectly.

Also, even if you saw it on the truck in the correct position...does not mean it was always in that position when it was loaded on/off the aircraft and on/off each truck until you saw it correctly loaded on the last truck.
post #4311 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptMike View Post

So when I order mine from Amazon and I make sure I'm there when UPS or FedEx delivers it, If I see it laying on it's side I will tell the driver that I will not accept it. He then will ask why. and I say "Because it was not loaded correctly on the truck" Then what? I call Amazon to state I did not accept it or call the shipping company to say that it was loaded incorrectly.

Also, even if you saw it on the truck in the correct position...does not mean it was always in that position when it was loaded on/off the aircraft and on/off each truck until you saw it correctly loaded on the last truck.

Large TVs aren't shipped via UPS/FedEx. They're shipped via freight companies. Delivery appointments are scheduled by the local freight company and you sign for the TV after inspecting the box.

I could be wrong, but I believe the TV is usually strapped to a pallet (in the upright/correct position) until it is received by the local freight company. Only when it gets loaded onto the truck for delivery is it removed from the pallet.

I've ordered approximately 8 TVs that were shipped/delivered by freight companies over the years (I didn't keep most of them). Only once was the box laying on it's side and not strapped to the side rails of the truck when it got to me. In this particular instance, it was delivered by 2 yahoos in NYC (home to the worst customer service I've ever experienced in general) who claimed that they had just laid it down during their last delivery so that it wouldn't fall over (the truck was empty except for my TV). I asked why it wasn't tied to the inside rails with rope/straps and they just shrugged their shoulders. I promptly told them to take the TV back and I called the retailer to complain. This particular TV was a 120+ lb plasma and there is no way that it should have been laid flat - even if for 5-10 minutes. Any bump in the road could have easily caused stress/micro-cracks in the glass of a screen that large and heavy - even if not visible to the naked eye.

Anyway, most of the time, I don't think you have anything to worry about. These freight companies know how large TVs should be transported and generally comply.
post #4312 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormsoldat View Post

Has anyone had their tv exchanged by Samsung due to clouding? I am currently trying to get my tv exchanged but the support says that their policy is to not do anything about that dirty of problem.

Here is a picture of what my clouding looks like:

u4edaju8.jpg

Skickat från min GT-I9300 via Tapatalk
I had a panel just like that. Just as you picture shows, something bright such as credits in the middle of the screen, brought out the clouding in all 4 quadrants. I took it back to the store and exchanged it. I no longer have that problem.
post #4313 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by effadj View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormsoldat View Post

Has anyone had their tv exchanged by Samsung due to clouding? I am currently trying to get my tv exchanged but the support says that their policy is to not do anything about that dirty of problem.

Here is a picture of what my clouding looks like:

u4edaju8.jpg

Skickat från min GT-I9300 via Tapatalk
I had a panel just like that. Just as you picture shows, something bright such as credits in the middle of the screen, brought out the clouding in all 4 quadrants. I took it back to the store and exchanged it. I no longer have that problem.

Thank you!

I am currently trying to get the TV exchanged via the Samsung support. A few weeks have passed and I still have not been able to get a definitive response from them regarding this.
post #4314 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkozlow3 View Post

You may get different opinions on this, but personally, if it was laying flat when they opened the truck door, I'd tell them to take it back. That's not how the TV is supposed to be transported and that puts a lot of stress on the screen/components IMO.
That said, I doubt it'll be laying flat. Shipping companies should know better.
You are correct saying the unit should not be laying flat, but with that said how do you know what happened to the TV prior to the truck door opening ? Could be upright then and earlier it was laying flat. My point is, as long as the unit is not damaged it does not matter how it comes in. Not being damaged is the most important thing smile.gif
post #4315 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormsoldat View Post

Thank you!

I am currently trying to get the TV exchanged via the Samsung support. A few weeks have passed and I still have not been able to get a definitive response from them regarding this.

How long ago did you buy your TV? If you bought it less than 30 days ago you should be able to exchange it at the store you bought it from.
Edited by DRN94 - 1/23/14 at 10:17pm
post #4316 of 6714
I can't speak to Samsung boxes, but I saw 60" Vizio box with embedded tilt indicators. Once the box is tilted the indicator shows it, and can't be chanaged even after up righted.
post #4317 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormsoldat View Post


Thank you!

I am currently trying to get the TV exchanged via the Samsung support. A few weeks have passed and I still have not been able to get a definitive response from them regarding this.

 

I purchased 2012's pile of crap, the 65es8000 and went through Samsung support because of bad banding and they ended up replacing the panel 3 times before I just said enough is enough and told them they were going to do a complete swap out or refund my money. You have to argue with them for a bit, stand firm and tell them you're not going to tolerate this type of service and/or call back and get someone that is willing to go that extra mile for you. Anyway they agreed to do a swap out, only problem was the new 2013's were out and didn't have any 2012's in their warehouse so I got my money refunded(36 hours after they picked it up), went out and bought the 2013 and a 5 year warranty to boot for $200 less than what I paid for the 2012. Samsung has some hard asses in the ECR department but if you have patience and stick with it they eventually cave. Good Luck!

post #4318 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormsoldat View Post

Thank you!

I am currently trying to get the TV exchanged via the Samsung support. A few weeks have passed and I still have not been able to get a definitive response from them regarding this.

The thing that bothers me most of all with this set is sequences (like credits) that are bright only in the center of the screen, and black elsewhere. REALLY brings out the flashlighting. But...if you turn off Smart LED, it eliminates that effect. I still sometimes think about recalibrating my set with Smart LED off instead of on. But to my untrained eye, I feel like content generally "looks better" with it on. Frustrating.
post #4319 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post

You are correct saying the unit should not be laying flat, but with that said how do you know what happened to the TV prior to the truck door opening ? Could be upright then and earlier it was laying flat. My point is, as long as the unit is not damaged it does not matter how it comes in. Not being damaged is the most important thing smile.gif

Exactly my point as I mentioned above, except you may not actually realize any "damage" until down the road a bit.
post #4320 of 6714
Quote:
Originally Posted by adcustom View Post

The thing that bothers me most of all with this set is sequences (like credits) that are bright only in the center of the screen, and black elsewhere. REALLY brings out the flashlighting. But...if you turn off Smart LED, it eliminates that effect. I still sometimes think about recalibrating my set with Smart LED off instead of on. But to my untrained eye, I feel like content generally "looks better" with it on. Frustrating.

You're seeing the edge lit dimming system most likely. If there is text in the middle of the screen and black every where else, you WILL see a brighter horizontal black level bar where the text is and darker black levels to the top and bottom. It's not flashlighting but the difference in black luminance because of the Smart LED dimming.



The TV on the right has edge lit dimming similar to the F8000 and the TV on the left is a plasma. Obviously the F8000 looks WAY better than the budget LED TV in this example but you see the brighter horizontal bar. If you turn Smart LED off, the F8000 will stop looking like the one on the right and will start to resemble the more homogeneous plasma on the left (albeit with a higher black level).

During nighttime viewing this can be distracting because your eyes are the most sensitive to the black level since there is little to no ambient bias light to make the black level look deeper than it is (think of how black it looks in the day time when there is a lot of light vs. the greyish resemblance at night). So you can either drop the backlight down to 5 to 8 (which is plenty bright for a pitch black room) or you can sacrifice the dimming if credit sequences are THAT distracting to you.

But don't mistake the LED dimming for flashlighting because they aren't the same. If the flashlighting disappears when you turn off the Smart LED, then it's just the horizontal dimming zones you're seeing and not any flashlighting caused by a bad panel.
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