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Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 338

post #10111 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by wxman View Post

I have had my 64 model for 3 weeks. 200 hours. Just by eye with cell light at 20, this is the order of what appears to be brighter

Dynamic
Standard
Cal Day
Movie
Relax
Cal Night

These are all uncalibrated. Standard with the same contrast/color/tint/brightness/gamma/Warm1 appears to be as good as movie or cal night. In the end, movie, standard or day cal, seem just as bright as my previous Sharp 70 inch LED TV that had a backlight of zero in movie or standard mode. In other words, very bright. The blacks have kicked into a new and better range after 200 hours. Almost inky black.

Ok so noob question regarding blacks, they actually get better?
post #10112 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelp1977 View Post

Yeah, I see your point, however the pixel is not constantly flashing it is intermitted, and to be honest has actually slowed down, or it is not as pronounced as before, that is why I wanted some expert opinions, other than this small issue, the picture is simply excellent which makes me hesitant, If it diminishes to the point where I see no more flashing, then this beast is a keeper...hopefully.

I think that is smart to wait and see if it ends up stuck on or off and does not blink, keep in mind that Samsung will not deal with a single pixel issue no matter what it is doing, so only the place you got it from will take it back as long as they have a satisfaction guarantee, like Best Buy, Amazon and some high end stores, most discount stores will not do it or if they do it come with pretty hefty "fines", usually they make you pay the shipping back to them, and they also will zap you for the original free shipping, plus a restocking fee.

Good luck!
post #10113 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelp1977 View Post

Ok so noob question regarding blacks, they actually get better?

In my case, yes. It also could have been the firmware upgrade to 1118, which I did close to the 200 hour mark. All I know, it is impressive.
post #10114 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroDrvr View Post

I think that is smart to wait and see if it ends up stuck on or off and does not blink, keep in mind that Samsung will not deal with a single pixel issue no matter what it is doing, so only the place you got it from will take it back as long as they have a satisfaction guarantee, like Best Buy, Amazon and some high end stores, most discount stores will not do it or if they do it come with pretty hefty "fines", usually they make you pay the shipping back to them, and they also will zap you for the original free shipping, plus a restocking fee.

Good luck![/quote

Yeah that's what I will do, actually I reported this to Samsung and they offered to send a technician, but I wanted to hold off. I did get it at best buy and have 45 days to return...wish it were 60 like it was last year. Its like I said this set other than this tiny issue...is awesome. Thanks again for your feedback, you guys have been very helpful, and actually helped be a little more patient with the set, the issue is not as pronounced as it was yesterday, and certainly the day before so we'll see.
post #10115 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by wxman View Post

In my case, yes. It also could have been the firmware upgrade to 1118, which I did close to the 200 hour mark. All I know, it is impressive.


That's why I asked, especially since I came from and led...these blacks are amazing...its like watching some of my movies for the first time!
post #10116 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroDrvr View Post

I think that is smart to wait and see if it ends up stuck on or off and does not blink, keep in mind that Samsung will not deal with a single pixel issue no matter what it is doing, so only the place you got it from will take it back as long as they have a satisfaction guarantee, like Best Buy, Amazon and some high end stores, most discount stores will not do it or if they do it come with pretty hefty "fines", usually they make you pay the shipping back to them, and they also will zap you for the original free shipping, plus a restocking fee.

Good luck!

This is one of the only good reasons to have a BB extended warranty. Stuck pixels are part of their warranty whether you choose 2 years or 3.
post #10117 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroDrvr View Post

I am not sure what you are comparing, I still have my 600 pound (feels like it) Sony 36FS210 and it has a great picture, until you see it next to any high end plasma, for me that was my old 50" Pani and now the 64 Samsung. Both came out of the box, no tuning, with a picture that shames the Sony instantly, and your first thought, wow and I thought that was good.

That aside the biggest favor you and most people can do for themselves is delete all bookmarks to this forum and never come back again, some common myths carried on this forum that novices succumb to:

1. The biggest myth is that your 3-4,000 dollar TV needs another 500 bucks dropped in tuning. This is purist stuff, most people find the picture just plain stunning and never touch a single picture control, and of those that do use the same basic ones we have all tweaked since color TV's came out, Brightness, Contrast, Color, Tint, Sharpness, and ok there is on new one Cell light. All of these can be done be eye with live content just like your daddy and granddaddy did it. If you looked back in the day when CRT's ruled, you would find the exact same nonsense only it involved the risk of electrocution and a cheater cord to power up the set with the back off.

2. Take my "picture quality" test, using live content, using only the basic picture controls get the picture to where you like it. Now don't mess with it at all for two months, don't come here for 2 months, don't think about this place for 2 months, chances are unless something breaks or you can't figure out a feature you will forget all about this place and our insane penchant for the "perfect" picture, if most of these guys here could they would be re-adjusting their eyes every few days and complaining to God about the black levels... The reason this works for nearly everyone is you tune you brain and not the TV. (of course if there is a real issue with your TV then you should simply return in the satisfaction period and if you bought from a place without a satisfaction period then that is on you.)

3. You Sony CRT likely has a little more to give, but removing the back, buying a set of proper alignment tools, and dealing with the cross-talk between controls that analog made an art form and digital not a lot better, but most did not do that either.

4. A lot of this is legacy from the very early sets, projectors, and tech that was not nearly close to this today, I remember when I went to Barco alignment school they suggested tuning every 90 days of a 50,000 TV.

5. There is an adjustment period going from CRT to Plasma, get over it, there is no fix for that except as noted in #2 above...

Now I am not suggesting these tunes are a waste of money for those that want every possible bit out of their TV and watch mostly blu-rays in the dark, I know it is sacrilege to say here but calibrating these sets if your viewing is like 90% of buyers, HD TV under far less that ideal lighting then you are wasting your money.

I think most folks are way overthinking their picture here and represent a very very small percentage of buyers but as these are fairly high end you will draw in the perfectionists and we can think them for keeping the makers on their toes and producing better sets every year.

Hey Camaro, thanks a lot. Your analogy of removing the back of a CRT set, then using a cheater cord to get at the factory adjustments with diddle stick in hand hit home. Makes a ton of sense, to me anyway. Glad you cleared that up. Finally got an opinion that I can relate to....
Edited by gary777 - 2/1/14 at 10:27pm
post #10118 of 11446
Can anyone confirm the following.

While watching tv (not blu ray) are you able to access Film Mode (where you select Cinema Smooth)? I am only able to access this function while watching bluray. While watching tv, this is grayed out and i have no access to film mode.

While watching tv under settings for pixel shift, mine is grayed out. I do not have access to pixel shifting . Yet while watching blu ray i am able to select on/off etc.

Is this normal?

I have updated to firmware 1118 and have reset the tv to factory settings.
post #10119 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by 49ers View Post

Can anyone confirm the following.

While watching tv (not blu ray) are you able to access Film Mode (where you select Cinema Smooth)? I am only able to access this function while watching bluray. While watching tv, this is grayed out and i have no access to film mode.

While watching tv under settings for pixel shift, mine is grayed out. I do not have access to pixel shifting . Yet while watching blu ray i am able to select on/off etc.

Is this normal?

I have updated to firmware 1118 and have reset the tv to factory settings.

Pixel shift will not work if you have you tv set to Screen Fit, instead of 16:9, etc. Cinema Smooth will only work for Blu ray. For watching tv, it will show Auto1, Auto2 or off.
post #10120 of 11446
anyone know what i should set the 2pt white balance to when using standard mode? Im not watching blu rays in standard mode i just like the brightness of it when watching tv shows and sports but the whites look greyish compared to relaxed mode where its super white.
post #10121 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by goldicon12 View Post

anyone know what i should set the 2pt white balance to when using standard mode? Im not watching blu rays in standard mode i just like the brightness of it when watching tv shows and sports but the whites look greyish compared to relaxed mode where its super white.

2 Pt White Balance is best set using Calibration Software and Meter.
post #10122 of 11446
Hello, anyone out their? I guess they're all watching the game?
post #10123 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

Hello, anyone out their? I guess they're all watching the game?

Did you have a question that needed answering?
post #10124 of 11446
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

Hello, anyone out their? I guess they're all watching the game?
I stopped after the half.........Shut outs are just not entertaining.
post #10125 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

Hello, anyone out their? I guess they're all watching the game?

Well I was watching the game with my pristine picture and booming audio and it would have been perfect except Denver never showed up for the game, rout would be putting it kindly, they were shamed, slaughtered, it looked like Denver sent a high school B team, who were having an off day!

My dad owes me a buck, when we don't have a team in the game we flip and take a team and put our traditional $1 bet on the game, I had the Seahawks this year but not due to my astute game research but the luck of the flip.

Watching a slaughter on a great TV does take some of the pain out it, but not a lot.
post #10126 of 11446
The Super Bowl looked great on this tv! One thing Denver can now say is they are the only NFL team to lose 5 Super Bowls.
post #10127 of 11446

Hi All,

 

Just received a PN60F8500 two days ago. Very much appreciate all of the suggestions here and elsewhere on the forum for setting up and calibrating the TV. Very pleased with it so far.

 

My question is about how most people interact with the TV for general day-to-day viewing. 

 

Specifically, I've got FIOS and setup the F8500 with the IR extender to control the FIOS box, but I haven't yet figured out how to effectively juggle: (1) the FIOS channel guide, (2) the F8500 channel guide, (3) the F8500 On TV, and, relatedly, the three remotes (A) Samsung regular, (B) Samsung smart, (C) FIOS regular.

 

It seems that different combos do different things well,but juggling 3 remotes and different interfaces seems a bit absurd, so I'm wondering how other people handle this.

 

Some particular examples:

 

* I can access the FIOS guide directly from the Samsung regular remote (STB guide button), but not from the Smart remote?

* Similarly, I can get to the FIOS DVR direct from the Smart remote but not from the regular Samsung remote?

* The Samsung guide always starts from channel 2 and doesn't appear to be configurable to exclude certain channels or to highlight different types of programming (movies, sports, etc.)

* I haven't exactly figured out how "On TV" fits into this. Is it powerful enough to replace a guide?

* I can pause/play/FF/REW TV from the Samsung regular remote, but not form the Smart remote. And I can't do 15/30 second skip ahead/skip backs without going over to the FIOS remote.

 

If you could share how you interact with the TV with the various remotes, etc. (to change channel by number, change channel by channel name, browse the guide, search the guide, use the DVR, pause/play/skip forward/skip back live TV, etc.), I'd really appreciate it!

 

thanks!

post #10128 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by phaedrus1313 View Post

Hi All,

Just received a PN60F8500 two days ago. Very much appreciate all of the suggestions here and elsewhere on the forum for setting up and calibrating the TV. Very pleased with it so far.

My question is about how most people interact with the TV for general day-to-day viewing. 

Specifically, I've got FIOS and setup the F8500 with the IR extender to control the FIOS box, but I haven't yet figured out how to effectively juggle: (1) the FIOS channel guide, (2) the F8500 channel guide, (3) the F8500 On TV, and, relatedly, the three remotes (A) Samsung regular, (B) Samsung smart, (C) FIOS regular.

It seems that different combos do different things well,but juggling 3 remotes and different interfaces seems a bit absurd, so I'm wondering how other people handle this.

Some particular examples:

* I can access the FIOS guide directly from the Samsung regular remote (STB guide button), but not from the Smart remote?
* Similarly, I can get to the FIOS DVR direct from the Smart remote but not from the regular Samsung remote?
* The Samsung guide always starts from channel 2 and doesn't appear to be configurable to exclude certain channels or to highlight different types of programming (movies, sports, etc.)
* I haven't exactly figured out how "On TV" fits into this. Is it powerful enough to replace a guide?
* I can pause/play/FF/REW TV from the Samsung regular remote, but not form the Smart remote. And I can't do 15/30 second skip ahead/skip backs without going over to the FIOS remote.

If you could share how you interact with the TV with the various remotes, etc. (to change channel by number, change channel by channel name, browse the guide, search the guide, use the DVR, pause/play/skip forward/skip back live TV, etc.), I'd really appreciate it!

thanks!

Over the past 20 or so years, the only simple straight forward interface/interlink type systems that even came close to giving all the proper functions & interface between units were the ones that had dedicated cable(s) & were of the same brand & compatible model
that connected each unit to the other. That only ever came close to being as simple & as functional as each component's separate dedicated remote.
It got even more complicated or impossible when different component brands were mixed in.
Even Samsung's Anynet+ system lacks the ease, speed simplicity & function of using it's dedicated remotes. Also, one button turn on is a PITA if you have more than 1 Samsung component.

I have even given up on using a single higher end universal remote like Pronto/Harmony etc - Too many things to remember &/or program. Most component specific remotes have so many commands anyway, clearly labelled, it would be ridiculous & complex to try & program them into a single remote anyway...

With this F8500 - too many annoying features & popups for me - voice/hand commands & Smart (!?) remote, no free "normal" remote in Canada so I'm buying one
- to access certain setup menus. It also won't even recognize or communicate with most of my components - AVR, Sat Box B-R players etc
- So I disabled all of them... I also bought the Samsung wireless keyboard KB2000 - VERY handy for surfing.

There is an excellent dedicated site for remotes/controllers & programming them - run by Daniel Tonks http://www.remotecentral.com/

My AVR remote turns on TV & AVR - then at most I only need the dedicated remote for Sat box, B-R player or what I am using at the time.
Edited by Dougofthenorth - 2/3/14 at 4:22am
post #10129 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post

The only flat panels that had less of a reflection problem would be a Sharp LED at this point, as they have semi-matte screen. All other flat panels use a glossy screen.

as do some of the lower end Samsung LED's...as I recall...the FH series have a matte screen..unlike the higher end units


Warren
post #10130 of 11446
Found an HDMI adapter that works properly for the F8500 inputs on the back
to hide cable sticking out & being viewable on side of set http://www.amazon.ca/Plated-Female-Adapter-Degree-AHM12L-270/dp/B00CPUGMUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391446539&sr=8-1&keywords=AHM12L-270


I think Samsung messed up on having the narrow part of the HDMI socket facing towards the TV
Most HDMI cables adapters face the other way

This type of adapter won't work

& these cables with this design won't work
due to having the narrow part of the HDMI socket facing towards the TV
Edited by Dougofthenorth - 2/3/14 at 8:57am
post #10131 of 11446
Hi all, I am looking at the 60" F8500. The included base runs the entire length of the panel, and unfortunately is about 4" wider than my existing furniture. It would look odd hanging off the sides by a few inches... Are there alternative/universal stands available for flat panel TVs, that might have a smaller footprint? I assume they would attach to the wall mount points on the back of the panel. Appreciate any help!
post #10132 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiz41 View Post

Hi all, I am looking at the 60" F8500. The included base runs the entire length of the panel, and unfortunately is about 4" wider than my existing furniture. It would look odd hanging off the sides by a few inches... Are there alternative/universal stands available for flat panel TVs, that might have a smaller footprint? I assume they would attach to the wall mount points on the back of the panel. Appreciate any help!

Not from Samsung specific to the F8500. It is a good idea, though.

What some have done is get a section of white board that's the correct width and put it on top of their existing stand. Then put the display with curved stand on the new board.

What you may find is that with the existing stand, the center of the display is sitting too low. In that case, I'd opt to replace the stand with one that's the correct width and height. .
post #10133 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiz41 View Post

Hi all, I am looking at the 60" F8500. The included base runs the entire length of the panel, and unfortunately is about 4" wider than my existing furniture. It would look odd hanging off the sides by a few inches... Are there alternative/universal stands available for flat panel TVs, that might have a smaller footprint? I assume they would attach to the wall mount points on the back of the panel. Appreciate any help!

There are many available and in many "price categories". They use a pedestal/post with a bracket that utilizes the VESA mounting points just as you described. Some are quite attractive and some maybe less attractive but "function" as efficiently as the more expensive product.

A search from your favorite tool for "pedestal flat panel mount" should get you started. Remove the "'s for the search. If you can use a single piece of material to gain the required width of your present furniture that should work equally as well. If it's a wooden flat surface console you could likely have a glass top cut for it with the additional dimensions added to accomplish the fit. I doubt that an addition of a "full size" addition would hint a "hack job". If it's a glass surfaced furniture piece I believe it requires more thought. Much more thought!
Edited by WVZR1 - 2/3/14 at 1:46pm
post #10134 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDgeneration View Post


I have it set on 16x9. which one is best? Thanks for the help.


I use screen fit all the time, watch plenty of channels with logos, no worries about IR, or Burn in.  The only way to get 1 to 1 HD is with screen fit.  The only reason I could see using 16:9 would be if you watch a lot of SD stuff.  You miss a lot with 16:9, make sure you have your cable box set up to native and all resolutions supported.  Yeah , Yeah, there is a 1 second pause when going between channels with different fromats, but I promise you after an hour or two you wont even notice it anymore.

post #10135 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroDrvr View Post


I keep mine on 16:9 except when using with the PC and then screen fit is way better.

When I was running the calibration slide with the white and black alternating lines I saw that the pattern was not right and would be almost blurry with screen fit and clean as the driven snow on 16:9, so I switched from Screen-Fit to 16:9 and even keep it there for Blu-Ray as it seems sharper and more in focus. I have a home theater PC and when I put the exact same cal disc and display the pattern it is the opposite, the pattern is messed up on 16:9 and snaps right in on Screen Fit.

I never dug into why since I was so happy with both so I don't know if it is a side effect of something else in my set, just me, or what but I like the picture better in 16:9 as I said for all but the HTPC.


there is something wrong with the image you are using if screen fit is blurry.  Screen fit is 1 to 1, pixel for pixel, tru HD.  16:9 is a modified image.

post #10136 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by WVZR1 View Post

There are many available and in many "price categories". They use a pedestal/post with a bracket that utilizes the VESA mounting points just as you described. Some are quite attractive and some maybe less attractive but "function" as efficiently as the more expensive product.

A search from your favorite tool for "pedestal flat panel mount" should get you started. Remove the "'s for the search. If you can use a single piece of material to gain the required width of your present furniture that should work equally as well. If it's a wooden flat surface console you could likely have a glass top cut for it with the additional dimensions added to accomplish the fit. I doubt that an addition of a "full size" addition would hint a "hack job". If it's a glass surfaced furniture piece I believe it requires more thought. Much more thought!

Interesting, thanks for the help.

I'm actually considering a sound bar as well, which would not work well in front of the included Samsung stand (given the curved base). A 3rd party stand might reduce the footprint and raise the panel up a few inches, so the sound bar could sit right in front, might be able to kill 2 birds here!
post #10137 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiz41 View Post

Interesting, thanks for the help.

I'm actually considering a sound bar as well, which would not work well in front of the included Samsung stand (given the curved base). A 3rd party stand might reduce the footprint and raise the panel up a few inches, so the sound bar could sit right in front, might be able to kill 2 birds here!

The addition of a sound-bar does certainly make the "pedestal-mount" a +. Depending on your present furniture the pedestal-mount doesn't need to be another piece of furniture but just the pedestal-mount itself, if you've room for the legs of the pedestal-mount that is free standing it could be an interesting addition. How well do you like your present furniture?
post #10138 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by WVZR1 View Post

The addition of a sound-bar does certainly make the "pedestal-mount" a +. Depending on your present furniture the pedestal-mount doesn't need to be another piece of furniture but just the pedestal-mount itself, if you've room for the legs of the pedestal-mount that is free standing it could be an interesting addition. How well do you like your present furniture?

Agreed.

The furniture was an in-law gift so I believe it's here to stay if at all possible. Very close to this - http://www.oakfurnitureshop.com/product/298/298-Solid-Wood-Cherry-Mission-Corner-TV-Stand.html

So, the 55" wide base of the 60" F8500 would JUST fit at the widest point, but the curved base in front would hang over and look goofy, and maybe not even be stable.

But as you suggested, maybe something like this - http://www.standsandmounts.com/CrimsonUniversalTabletopPedestal-DS65.aspx

Elevate the TV a bit, footprint easily fits on my furniture, and the soundbar may even hide the stand entirely, which could be pretty slick...
post #10139 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiz41 View Post

Agreed.

The furniture was an in-law gift so I believe it's here to stay if at all possible. Very close to this - http://www.oakfurnitureshop.com/product/298/298-Solid-Wood-Cherry-Mission-Corner-TV-Stand.html

So, the 55" wide base of the 60" F8500 would JUST fit at the widest point, but the curved base in front would hang over and look goofy, and maybe not even be stable.

But as you suggested, maybe something like this - http://www.standsandmounts.com/CrimsonUniversalTabletopPedestal-DS65.aspx

Elevate the TV a bit, footprint easily fits on my furniture, and the soundbar may even hide the stand entirely, which could be pretty slick...

Nice stand - reminds me I'm going to be milling some 2' diameter Cherry logs this summer

If you use the pedestal, strap/anchor that to the wall, as obviously you won't be anchoring the pedestal to the wood stand!! - these TVs have quite a mass!
post #10140 of 11446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougofthenorth View Post

Over the past 20 or so years, the only simple straight forward interface/interlink type systems that even came close to giving all the proper functions & interface between units were the ones that had dedicated cable(s) & were of the same brand & compatible model
that connected each unit to the other. That only ever came close to being as simple & as functional as each component's separate dedicated remote.
It got even more complicated or impossible when different component brands were mixed in.
Even Samsung's Anynet+ system lacks the ease, speed simplicity & function of using it's dedicated remotes. Also, one button turn on is a PITA if you have more than 1 Samsung component.

I have even given up on using a single higher end universal remote like Pronto/Harmony etc - Too many things to remember &/or program. Most component specific remotes have so many commands anyway, clearly labelled, it would be ridiculous & complex to try & program them into a single remote anyway...

With this F8500 - too many annoying features & popups for me - voice/hand commands & Smart (!?) remote, no free "normal" remote in Canada so I'm buying one
- to access certain setup menus. It also won't even recognize or communicate with most of my components - AVR, Sat Box B-R players etc
- So I disabled all of them... I also bought the Samsung wireless keyboard KB2000 - VERY handy for surfing.

There is an excellent dedicated site for remotes/controllers & programming them - run by Daniel Tonks http://www.remotecentral.com/

My AVR remote turns on TV & AVR - then at most I only need the dedicated remote for Sat box, B-R player or what I am using at the time.

I think this totally depends on what you intend to do. if you are a 'tinkerer' then ya, just find a way to organize all those remotes and move on. but it's totally possible AND convenient to use all your devices with a single universal.

I have my harmony set up, and have been using it for years now. I tend to keep my avr and projector remote on my audio rack for easy access if I need to make any adjustments, but that's it. there's no reason you can't program a universal remote to control 3 or 4 different devices for one activity(avr for volume, cable box for channels/guide, tv for display, etc). the key is having things set up properly and not trying to tinker with settings all the time. if you're one of those ppl that likes changing picture settings for bluray vs tv, or sports vs movies, etc, that becomes tedious and difficult to do on a universal remote.

as long as you keep things simple, it's very practical though. with my harmony I have no problem 99% of the time, and only use the device's remote for set up.
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