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Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 349

post #10441 of 11445
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9179mhb View Post

Thanks for the feedback NorCalJason & tbaudoin. I am interested in obtaining a larger display. Is there a noticeable difference in real-estate between a 60" and 64" display? Buying a 64F8500 for the living room would be safer from an ambient noise perspective.

I don't really understand why some ZT60 & F8500 series PDPs are reported to have fan/panel buzz noise issues when my 9 year old Panasonic and 7 year old Pioneer plasma displays are almost dead silent.

Do you think moving a 60" PDP into the MBR is over kill?

I looked at the Cleveland Plasma web site, but you have to call them to get a price for the F8500.

Has anyone made a big screen TV Internet purchase from Samsung? If so, how was your experience? Did you use Samsung's White Glove Delivery service?
Samsung charges tax in every state, they will be way high........ 64" is 14% larger wink.gif Price difference over here is $400, so actually you are paying just about 20% going to the bigger size, not to bad.....

60 inch 16:9 Set 64 inch 16:9 Set
4:3 (1.33:1) NTSC mode 4:3 (1.33:1) NTSC mode [13.9% larger]

Your viewing area is 39.2 in(w) x 29.4 in(h)
Total viewing area is 1152.48 sq in.
This is the equivalent of a 49.0 inch 4:3 TV



Your viewing area is 41.8 in(w) x 31.4 in(h)
Total viewing area is 1312.52 sq in.
This is the equivalent of a 52.3 inch 4:3 TV

16:9 (1.78:1) native mode 16:9 (1.78:1) native mode [14.0% larger]

Your viewing area is 52.3 in(w) x 29.4 in(h)
Total viewing area is 1537.62 sq in.
This utilizes the full display of the 16:9 TV



Your viewing area is 55.8 in(w) x 31.4 in(h)
Total viewing area is 1752.12 sq in.
This utilizes the full display of the 16:9 TV

16:9 (1.85:1) letterbox mode 16:9 (1.85:1) letterbox mode [13.9% larger]

Your viewing area is 52.3 in(w) x 28.3 in(h)
The diagonal size is 59.5 in
Total viewing area is 1480.09 sq in.
Total area is 57.5 sq in. (3.7%) smaller than 1.78:1



Your viewing area is 55.8 in(w) x 30.2 in(h)
The diagonal size is 63.4 in
Total viewing area is 1685.16 sq in.
Total area is 67.0 sq in. (3.8%) smaller than 1.78:1

16:9 (2.35:1) letterbox mode 16:9 (2.35:1) letterbox mode [13.4% larger]

Your viewing area is 52.3 in(w) x 22.3 in(h)
The diagonal size is 56.9 in
Total viewing area is 1166.29 sq in.
Total area is 371.3 sq in. (24.1%) smaller than 1.78:1



Your viewing area is 55.8 in(w) x 23.7 in(h)
The diagonal size is 60.6 in
Total viewing area is 1322.46 sq in.
Total area is 429.7 sq in. (24.5%) smaller than 1.78:1
post #10442 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9179mhb View Post

Thanks for the feedback NorCalJason & tbaudoin. I am interested in obtaining a larger display. Is there a noticeable difference in real-estate between a 60" and 64" display? Buying a 64F8500 for the living room would be safer from an ambient noise perspective.

I don't really understand why some ZT60 & F8500 series PDPs are reported to have fan/panel buzz noise issues when my 9 year old Panasonic and 7 year old Pioneer plasma displays are almost dead silent.

Do you think moving a 60" PDP into the MBR is over kill?

I looked at the Cleveland Plasma web site, but you have to call them to get a price for the F8500.

Has anyone made a big screen TV Internet purchase from Samsung? If so, how was your experience? Did you use Samsung's White Glove Delivery service?

I think you will like the 60" in your MBR. My wife thought I was crazy when I replaced our 40" with a 55" in our MBR, but now she loves it. I plan to put my 65" VT30 in there once I purchase the F8500. biggrin.gif
post #10443 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Riddle View Post

I think you will like the 60" in your MBR. My wife thought I was crazy when I replaced our 40" with a 55" in our MBR, but now she loves it. I plan to put my 65" VT30 in there once I purchase the F8500. biggrin.gif

My wife's main complaint regarding the 50" PDP in the MBR is it's brightness at night if she is trying to fall asleep while I'm still watching TV. But my impression is the 50" native 720p Panasonic display renders a brighter image than does the 60" native 1080p Pioneer. So even if the Pioneer PDP is larger the luminance it generates may be less.
post #10444 of 11445
Sounds like a good selling point!
post #10445 of 11445
I'm almost ready to purchase the PN64F8500, coming from a Panny 65VT30, and I have a few questions. From what I've read in the forum, the Black Level Optomizer set to Dark Room does not crush blacks and does not exhibit floating blacks - fixed by firmware. Is this correct? Also, did those of you that had your sets calibrated have it calibrated with Dark Room on?
post #10446 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by atcdav View Post

Or until it stops turning on which will probably be much sooner !!!

my TV's generally last 10+yrs. I sure hope oled has delivered by then
post #10447 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post

my TV's generally last 10+yrs. I sure hope oled has delivered by then

Not to disappoint you, my Samsung plasma died in 3 years time. Though i managed to revive it with a few parts swap and some diy knowledge, no products nowadays live beyond their warranty period very well.
post #10448 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hifi4Hobby View Post

Not to disappoint you, my Samsung plasma died in 3 years time. Though i managed to revive it with a few parts swap and some diy knowledge, no products nowadays live beyond their warranty period very well.
not to excite you, but my Samsung plasma's going on 6yrs without a hint of a problem...

I have 5 TV's currently in the house that are well past their warranty period. figure it however you like, my stuff tends to last as long as I need it. I usually upgrade because things are obsolete, not because they are broken
post #10449 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

During daylight hours/reasonably light room viewing (depending on situ) I disagree. They both look to have the same blacks. Black is as black, as black can be, on both sets.
Side-by-side comparison.
For me the F8500 had the edge for me in daylight/light room.- Crisper, more vivid. Better whites. Way better 3D - it had the power to punch information through the active glasses. The bezel looks great. I got a good deal wink.gif

100% agree on that

like I said pages ago...if you have ANY light in the room the F8500 is the way to go



Warren
post #10450 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Riddle View Post

I'm almost ready to purchase the PN64F8500, coming from a Panny 65VT30, and I have a few questions. From what I've read in the forum, the Black Level Optomizer set to Dark Room does not crush blacks and does not exhibit floating blacks - fixed by firmware. Is this correct? Also, did those of you that had your sets calibrated have it calibrated with Dark Room on?

to my experience(had the tv since last april, on current fw now), the BO does not crush blacks, but it is the 'cause' of floating blacks. fw updates have not really done anything to the performance of the tv, only the apps.

if you turn off the BO, you won't experience any floating blacks, but you also won't experience any blacks, haha. I've made the comparison before, but it really reminds me of a dynamic iris on projectors.
post #10451 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hifi4Hobby View Post

Not to disappoint you, my Samsung plasma died in 3 years time. Though i managed to revive it with a few parts swap and some diy knowledge, no products nowadays live beyond their warranty period very well.

completely isolated case...based on my experiences

the other part is...who really plans on keeping a TV for umpteen years anymore?

like computers...4-5 years time, or less, brings a huge level of improvement at a lower price for TV's


Warren
post #10452 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post

to my experience(had the tv since last april, on current fw now), the BO does not crush blacks, but it is the 'cause' of floating blacks. fw updates have not really done anything to the performance of the tv, only the apps.

if you turn off the BO, you won't experience any floating blacks, but you also won't experience any blacks, haha. I've made the comparison before, but it really reminds me of a dynamic iris on projectors.

Thanks for the reply. Are the floating blacks very noticable? From the reviews I've read, with Black Optimizer off, the tv measures around .0040 fl and with it on around .0017fl - turning on cinema smooth further brightens them.
post #10453 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Riddle View Post

Thanks for the reply. Are the floating blacks very noticable? From the reviews I've read, with Black Optimizer off, the tv measures around .0040 fl and with it on around .0017fl - turning on cinema smooth further brightens them.

I do not notice any floating blacks with BO on, and I watch in a dark room at night with no lights. A previous FW fixed the rising blacks with CS on. As far as calibration, calibrate with BO off.
post #10454 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Riddle View Post

Thanks for the reply. Are the floating blacks very noticable? From the reviews I've read, with Black Optimizer off, the tv measures around .0040 fl and with it on around .0017fl - turning on cinema smooth further brightens them.

I plan to upgrade my Panny GT30 this year and seeing that Panny's are going extinct and or being price gouged,I plan on looking at the 64F8500 or 64H7000 later in the year.

I just wanted to know with all the latest firmwares for the F8500 if anyone finally have an absolute black level measurement.

Is it .001. or higher or lower?

Thanks.
post #10455 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Riddle View Post

turning on cinema smooth further brightens them.

Floating blacks are hard to see and only noticable if you know what to look for / have a side-by-side comparison.

The CS brightening bug has been resolved.
post #10456 of 11445
Thanks for everyone's responses. From what I've read, this appears to be the set for me - it was previously going to be the VT60, but the vaseline specials have scared me away.
post #10457 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterLewis View Post

I plan to upgrade my Panny GT30 this year and seeing that Panny's are going extinct and or being price gouged,I plan on looking at the 64F8500 or 64H7000 later in the year.

I just wanted to know with all the latest firmwares for the F8500 if anyone finally have an absolute black level measurement.

Is it .001. or higher or lower?

Thanks.

could it not vary by both the specific F8500 and what size?

also I think its going to be considerably better than your GT30....what ever size F8500 you choose


Warren
post #10458 of 11445
Can someone provide their impression regarding the overall image rendered by the 64F8500 as compared to an 8th generation Kuro display, ideally a PRO-150FD?
post #10459 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9179mhb View Post


I don't really understand why some ZT60 & F8500 series PDPs are reported to have fan/panel buzz noise issues when my 9 year old Panasonic and 7 year old Pioneer plasma displays are almost dead silent.

Elevation, subjective ears, hours on the set, small variations in product. Combined, account for the "I can't hear any buzz" to "buzzes so loud it must be returned"

I got my 64" yesterday.

Having spent years in the audio portion of Home Theater, I'd consider my ears pretty good.

My Sammy does buzz. It's only noticeable to me if I'm near the screen, without any program material, when viewing a mostly-white web page. The pitch and intensity of the buzz changes, even with a static image. I don't know why.

That being said, it's very subtle. Not distracting in the least, since I can't hear it at all if I'm...

Over 3ft from the screen
Displaying any material NOT a mostly white web page

Some say the buzz will diminish over time. If so, it won't take much time before my set is completely silent.
post #10460 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9179mhb View Post

Can someone provide their impression regarding the overall image rendered by the 64F8500 as compared to an 8th generation Kuro display, ideally a PRO-150FD?

I do not know how well a 150 looks, but the image quality is similar to my 9G 5020. Not an Elite model.
post #10461 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9179mhb View Post

Can someone provide their impression regarding the overall image rendered by the 64F8500 as compared to an 8th generation Kuro display, ideally a PRO-150FD?


looking at the value electronics shootout is your best bet

I really doubt you will get much of an "unbiased" opinion in a F8500 forum that has tons of people who own the TV


Warren
post #10462 of 11445
Thread Starter 
^^^ Does it really matter anyway ? It's either this or a LED or OLED.
post #10463 of 11445
so for games and least lag, just turn on game mode? firmware 1119. Do we still need to rename it? to what, just PC or PC Mode
post #10464 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by turnne1 View Post

completely isolated case...based on my experiences

the other part is...who really plans on keeping a TV for umpteen years anymore?

like computers...4-5 years time, or less, brings a huge level of improvement at a lower price for TV's


Warren
well, I do for one. and TV's haven't really seen a 'huge improvement' in the last 10yrs imo. changes, sure, but it's fairly subjective as there's been some rather major compromises attached to ever improvement. even in the short term, try telling the kuro owners the f8500 or zt60 is a huge improvement over what they have.
in all honesty, unless oled delivers on its promises, there will almost definitely be a huge DECREASE in performance over the next 5yrs. there is simply no way an LCD is going to surpass an f8500 or zt60 in overall picture quality.

anyway, for me, a tv purchase(which is JUST a display for me, so apps, cameras, etc mean nothing) is one of the last few long term electronics purchases I still make.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Riddle View Post

Thanks for the reply. Are the floating blacks very noticable? From the reviews I've read, with Black Optimizer off, the tv measures around .0040 fl and with it on around .0017fl - turning on cinema smooth further brightens them.

this seems to be very personal. I had the tv for 6months before I was even willing to admit there MIGHT be a changing black level. now that I know how to produce the change, I can check for it and see it without too much trouble. but don't get the wrong impression, I do not find it the least bit distracting or noticeable when simply viewing content. I watch in a pitch black room almost exclusively(hate watching tv with the lights on).

I have messed around too much with settings, I don't really watch blurays, I have a projector afterall, so I can only really comment on the difference between BO on and off. with it on, the tv looks very impressive, and dark scenes are pretty impressive. not crt good, but better than any other flat screen I've seen not in a store(I'm sure the best kuros, and this year's pannys would beat it, but I've only seen those in brighter situations in a store). with the BO off, it's fairly typical flat screen in my opinion. it's obviously not black, but it looks ok if you turn on some lights, or watch bright material.
post #10465 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalJason View Post

Elevation, subjective ears, hours on the set, small variations in product. Combined, account for the "I can't hear any buzz" to "buzzes so loud it must be returned"

I got my 64" yesterday.

Having spent years in the audio portion of Home Theater, I'd consider my ears pretty good.

My Sammy does buzz. It's only noticeable to me if I'm near the screen, without any program material, when viewing a mostly-white web page. The pitch and intensity of the buzz changes, even with a static image. I don't know why.

That being said, it's very subtle. Not distracting in the least, since I can't hear it at all if I'm...

Over 3ft from the screen
Displaying any material NOT a mostly white web page

Some say the buzz will diminish over time. If so, it won't take much time before my set is completely silent.

my experience mirrors this exactly. except I've had mine for several months now and nothing has changed, hasn't gotten quieter or louder
post #10466 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post

^^^ Does it really matter anyway ? It's either this or a LED or OLED.

I'm assuming the question is does he upgrade his 150 or not.

I would agree, if you NEED a new tv, it's probably the easiest choice there's ever been now. but there will always be that question of whether or not it's really an 'upgrade' or just newer/larger
post #10467 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by newfmp3 View Post

so for games and least lag, just turn on game mode? firmware 1119. Do we still need to rename it? to what, just PC or PC Mode

two options(that both achieve about the same lag)

1. rename it PC - this eliminates most(all?) processing, and leaves you with minimal picture control options

2. rename it GAME and turn on 'game mode' through the menu settings - similar to above, but it offers more calibration options so you may be able to get a better overall image
post #10468 of 11445
Is this a big deal? I had always thought that this, motion resolution(sharpness), was an area that Samsung pdp's shined over the competition.



The VT60 only achieves the respectable 1,200 lines of full motion resolution of when you turn on one of the smoothing/dejudder modes. Without any of those modes on it scored>>700 lines. So most VT owners have sm/dejudder turned off? Thus no advantage over us F8500 owners.
post #10469 of 11445
Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post

two options(that both achieve about the same lag)

1. rename it PC - this eliminates most(all?) processing, and leaves you with minimal picture control options

2. rename it GAME and turn on 'game mode' through the menu settings - similar to above, but it offers more calibration options so you may be able to get a better overall image

I don't have any equipment to measure input lag, so you can take this with a grain of salt, but I think that recent firmware updates have possibly made the need to rename inputs unnecessary. Now you may only need to turn game mode on. I've flipped back between Game mode on my first HDMI port and Game mode in HDMI2 which I had renamed "Game" and I didn't feel any discernible difference anymore.

Would really be interested to see if someone else gets the same results.
post #10470 of 11445
I believe rename to 'Game' has always been aesthetic.
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