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Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 56

post #1651 of 11459
Ok..so....re the stand GAP...i recall that the brackets were marked RIGHT and LEFT..now...is that the right side when FACING the front of the TV or the BACK.....when you assmble the stand, the TV is laying face down...so which side is right and which is left...silly question...but perhaps thats the issue...and I mean, can the brackets actually fit on the wrong side...all of the screws lined up properly....It could not be any lower to close the gap because then the screws would not have lined up? As soon as I can get someone to help, I will take apart and re-do and see if the brackets can fit on the other side.
post #1652 of 11459
Will change this up with some other topics, to keep things interesting. ;-)

Day 5 and LOVE my 64F8500!!! Best set I've ever owned, a grand slam by Samsung in my opinion. Watched my first 3d today, Amazing Spider-Man, and it killed. (I'm running Kevin Miller's Movie 3D settings for now until I get my set calibrated in a couple weeks.)

Only small nuisance so far is that I was looking forward to Skype for the family using the app on smart TV but the camera is so high up on the 64, especially with the TV sitting in a stand, it can't see my couch! No way to adjust the angle that I can find, which is a bad design. What about people that hang their TV on the wall? But anyway, not that big a deal, I paid for the picture first and foremost.
post #1653 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by jiholl5333 View Post

Ok..so....re the stand GAP...i recall that the brackets were marked RIGHT and LEFT..now...is that the right side when FACING the front of the TV or the BACK.....when you assmble the stand, the TV is laying face down...so which side is right and which is left...silly question...but perhaps thats the issue...and I mean, can the brackets actually fit on the wrong side...all of the screws lined up properly....It could not be any lower to close the gap because then the screws would not have lined up? As soon as I can get someone to help, I will take apart and re-do and see if the brackets can fit on the other side.

same situation! didn't think they could 'fit' in incorrect place but am now thinking maybe they can... all we can do at this point is take it apart and try. i have to get someone over to help me also.......... glad i'm not nuts for noticing this!
post #1654 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elvamir View Post

Will change this up with some other topics, to keep things interesting. ;-)

Day 5 and LOVE my 64F8500!!! Best set I've ever owned, a grand slam by Samsung in my opinion. Watched my first 3d today, Amazing Spider-Man, and it killed. (I'm running Kevin Miller's Movie 3D settings for now until I get my set calibrated in a couple weeks.)

Only small nuisance so far is that I was looking forward to Skype for the family using the app on smart TV but the camera is so high up on the 64, especially with the TV sitting in a stand, it can't see my couch! No way to adjust the angle that I can find, which is a bad design. What about people that hang their TV on the wall? But anyway, not that big a deal, I paid for the picture first and foremost.

yes it can be adjusted down... very small wheel on top of camera... move it backwards to move cam angle down
post #1655 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post

When I compare displays, it's per the manufacturers settings. I wouldn't use electronic adjustments that alter manufacturer's values in arriving at the MLL of a given display. If you're going to be fair, it's the settings with the factory calibrations afforded by the manufacturer. Most people will never see this experimentation on their displays. Using that as the only fair and comparable gauge, the Elite still surpasses the Kuro for MLL.

Ken. Did you ever have thatSharp

Now I wonder why Pioneer didn't start off with these tweaked values? Could be a reason, but I don't know what it may be.
Still not seeing what you apologized for, for one person's observations. wink.gif
I guess it does say something since I sold it after living with both the Elite and the Kuro for a month. You missed my earlier post. With the Elite bettering my Kuro in black levels, brightness & sharpness, I saw little reason to keep the Kuro. biggrin.gif
Ken, did you ever have your Sharp Elite calibrated? My calibrator was no fan of it. He hated to have to calibrate them. The Kuro should have displayed a much superior image than the Sharp Elite. Not sure of the Elites issues for sure. Maybe color issues amongst other things.
post #1656 of 11459
I
Quote:
Originally Posted by jiholl5333 View Post

Ok..so....re the stand GAP...i recall that the brackets were marked RIGHT and LEFT..now...is that the right side when FACING the front of the TV or the BACK.....when you assmble the stand, the TV is laying face down...so which side is right and which is left...silly question...but perhaps thats the issue...and I mean, can the brackets actually fit on the wrong side...all of the screws lined up properly....It could not be any lower to close the gap because then the screws would not have lined up? As soon as I can get someone to help, I will take apart and re-do and see if the brackets can fit on the other side.
I have a small gap (2mm ?) also between the tv and stand on my 51". There's no way for me to make the tv and stand touch because the 4 screws (2 on each side) had to line up on the back of the tv to attach it to the stand.
post #1657 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljmart View Post

lol!
yes i feel for those who have and more than thankful i am not seeing any issues. tho i do see some judder occasionally, will just have to deal! but no way am i giving up this otherwise gorgeous display!!!

Don't worry, there isn't a plasma around that doesn't have judder. It's the nature of the beast.
post #1658 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisinwpg View Post

I'm thinking of returning this set that I just bought 5 days ago. I've tried tweaking all the settings and I just can't get rid of these totally annoying flashes of light. These flashes mainly occur in bright scenes (and not just when the main on-screen colour is predominantly white either). I notice a lot of motion judder too.

Regarding the brightness pops... I've noticed that all the reports have come from people with the 64" set. Nobody with the 51" seems to be reporting them. Maybe the larger sizes are overloading the power supply and causing the sudden changes in ABL?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post

I agree, everyone needs to research any display before plunking down large amounts of cash. But WattheF, I'm really not meaning to be flip here, but you've seen the issue, are really bothered by it and have decided it makes the set unwatchable for you. So what's the point in any further consideration on this display? I certainly wouldn't buy it hoping for a firmware update to address it. You can't bank on that.

From what I've seen, the Cal Day mode cures it, but you've heard that before. I don't know what settings are eliminating the issue within the Cal Day mode and even if you were planning to buy the display and not get it calibrated, you can't assume the issue will go away.

Although I've seen the issue and confirmed it for my own edification, where you and I have had radically different experiences is in the frequency of the occurrence and our perception of the magnitude when it does occur. In terms of the frequency of seeing it, if I had never seen it, then someone could make a valid point saying 'you don't know what to look for'. But since I have seen it and do know what to look for, it's not that I'm not recognizing the issue. You even claimed the video did not show the severity of what you've seen and yet what was depicted in the video was almost exactly the magnitude of what I've seen. So if there are actually worse occurrences, I surely would have seen them had they occurred on the displays I've seen.

So why you and I (and apparently many others) are having this wide disparity in the 'sighting frequency' (for lack of a better phrase wink.gif), I have no idea. It makes me scratch my head and I'd love to know the answer. confused.gif

You know what Ken? I'm getting this weird sense of Déjà vu when reading your posts about the brightness pops. Just replace the term "brightness pops" with "pulsing/flicker". wink.gif

For anyone who doesn't know what I'm referring to, please check out the Sharp Elite thread back in early 2012. Many people who purchased that set (myself included) saw a brightness flicker or pulsing caused by the LED local dimming algorithms of that set. Similar to the current Samsung discussion, Ken and Robert (from VE) claimed it was invisible with calibrated settings or THX mode. But for those sensitive the issue, no amount of tinkering with settings or calibration ever resolved the issue.

I'm only bringing this up because I don't want to give people false hope that a professional calibration will fix it. I think some of us are just more sensitive to this sort of problem and it's best to move on to a different set. I was able to see these brightness pops on the older D series Samsung plasmas so I know how annoying they can be.

I will try to check out the new Samsung as soon as they show up at our local BB. But this kind of issue is often hard to spot in a store setting (I never saw the Elite pulsing problem until I got it home).
post #1659 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by captenblack View Post

I could probably live with the faint black band, it is rare (thus far) that I've seen it. I'm also quite used to normal plasma banding so maybe that is partly why I'm not noticing it all the time.
The random reboots when using the remote is my main issue. And the fact that the "zoom" controls are grayed out no matter what mode I'm in bugs me a bit.

I'm assuming you're hooked up to your STB via HDMI. The following chart (which I suppose you've seen) shows what modes are possible with what connection type (sorry, the formatting didn't carry over in my cut & paste. But it certainly seems like some modes (except the Smart Modes since this is a plasma and NOT the zoom modes since this is not Component 480 i/p) should be available if that's how you're connected:

Picture Size and Input Signal
Input Signal
Picture Size
ATV, AV
16:9
,
Zoom1
,
Zoom2
,
4:3
Component (480i, 480p)
16:9
,
Zoom1
,
Zoom2
,
4:3
DTV (720p)
16:9
,
Wide Fit
,
4:3
,
Smart View 2
DTV (1080i, 1080p)
16:9
,
Wide Fit
,
4:3
,
Screen Fit
,
Smart View 2
Component (720p)
16:9
,
Wide Fit
,
4:3
Component (1080i, 1080p)
16:9
,
Wide Fit
,
4:3
,
Screen Fit
HDMI (720p, 1080i, 1080p)
16:9
,
Wide Fit
,
4:3
,
Screen Fit
,
Smart View 1
(for LED TV),
Smart View 2
(for LED TV)
HDMI (2160p) (for UHD S9 Series model)
Screen Fit
The
Picture Size
setting is applied to the current source and the applied
Picture Size
will remain in
effect the next time the source is selected.
"
The
Picture Size
option is not available with images in the UHD resolution because the supported scre
post #1660 of 11459
Just watched Thrones. This set rocks!! biggrin.gif Any Bluray I watch blows my mind. I've had this set for 2 weeks now.

I hope others can get the issues resolved somehow.
post #1661 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post

Don't worry, there isn't a plasma around that doesn't have judder. It's the nature of the beast.

thanks smile.gif it surprised me when i first saw it but reassured by reading here. thank you AVS! and it doesn't happen often... def not a big deal and DEF worth the trade UP!!
post #1662 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post

I
I have a small gap (2mm ?) also between the tv and stand on my 51". There's no way for me to make the tv and stand touch because the 4 screws (2 on each side) had to line up on the back of the tv to attach it to the stand.

did you try switching the two brackets around (meaning switch placement left andright, not actually turning bracket around, if that makes sense)? its possible all screws will still line up... ?
Edited by ljmart - 4/7/13 at 7:27pm
post #1663 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by floridaman View Post

Just got back from the Magnolia Center. I spent about 90 minutes with the 64F8500. It was definitely worth the trip except for the fact I walked out with a new Pioneer BDP-62 blu ray player. It was 50% off the retail price and one of my blu ray players just crapped out. Hard to go into that store and not buy something. Anyway I was able to address each and every concern I had. The HDMI black level was greyed out on the display and had a setting of low. There feed was through a coax cable. I tested the motion judder and could see no differences with the picture regardless of the setting I tested. I set the picture mode to match my settings at home so I was comparing apples to apples. I noticed the brightness pops only once in a bright background and it was a 2 step process. They didn't have a blu ray hooked up but did so after I asked. The first thing I did was to play the break in DVD and look for the banding issues. The set had a very faint case of a horizontal band just above the center of screen. Definitely not as noticeable as my set. I played eight below in the blu ray player since it is almost all snow scenes. I didn't see any brightness pops and did see the slight banding in one instance of a vertical pan.

Glad to see you only saw one pop in your 90 minutes with the 8500. That was the same frequency that I had...well actually 2 hours. Close enough for jazz. I'll look for that band the next time I'm at a Magnolia.

The HDMI black level is only available if a component (STB, BD player etc.) is connected via an HDMI cable. This from the instruction manual again:

HDMI Black Level
This is available only for video input via an HDMI cable. Use this to reduce image retention that
may occur when watching video from an external device. Choose one of the black levels.
Try Now
post #1664 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

Could well be some valid rationale to not fiddle with the voltage in such ways (but I continue to be amazed by what the sets are capable of). I tend to skim (haste makes waste), so I missed the selling part (and this was after a month of your own A/B comparisons, too). You saw what you saw, I can't fault that. The second apology was for mistakenly calling the aforementioned impression a full-scale review. biggrin.gif The first apology you already sussed out (and wasn't necessary, I was just treading lightly to keep the peace wink.gif).

I hear ya. Vinnie. wink.gif
post #1665 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by hifi59 View Post

Ken, did you ever have your Sharp Elite calibrated? My calibrator was no fan of it. He hated to have to calibrate them. The Kuro should have displayed a much superior image than the Sharp Elite. Not sure of the Elites issues for sure. Maybe color issues amongst other things.

C'mon hifi59, really? Both my Pro 151 & Elite were calibrated by the same guy, Kevin Miller, one of the most respected guys in the business. He had no trouble doing his typically excellent job and has done many Elites. No idea why your guy has such issues.

There were professional reviews that also called the Elite the best TV ever, so I was far from being alone. No, those views were not unanimous among reviewers, but they were out there. Take a look on the Elite thread and you'll find many former Kuro owners who feel precisely the same way. They find their Elite picture better than their Kuro. Most have sold their Kuros. Obviously many Kuro owners don't feel that way. There is room for different opinions even among videophiles.

You seem to be unable to accept the subjectivity in determining 'best', so your comments simply don't ring true. Hifi, you feel the Kuro is best, and I'm happy for you, but that's far from true for everyone. We even have a new 8500 owner and former Kuro owner right here who feels...get ready for it...the 8500 outperforms his Kuro. Amazing? Not really hifi, not really.

My Elite has a better MLL as measured by many calibrators and reviewers, better brightness and better sharpness than my Pro 151 had. The Elite has more accurate color and a better viewing angle. The Kuro has a much superior image? Hardly. But I'm glad you love your Kuro.

And c'mon, this is a thread dedicated to the F8500, not a thread comparing the Elite to the Kuro. Why do you guys venture into so many threads for other displays and start this silliness? Endless. It truly sounds like some of you are feeling a bit insecure with every 'threat' to the "Kuro Supremacy" rolleyes.gif
post #1666 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post

Glad to see you only saw one pop in your 90 minutes with the 8500. That was the same frequency that I had...well actually 2 hours. Close enough for jazz. I'll look for that band the next time I'm at a Magnolia.

The HDMI black level is only available if a component (STB, BD player etc.) is connected via an HDMI cable. This from the instruction manual again:

HDMI Black Level
This is available only for video input via an HDMI cable. Use this to reduce image retention that
may occur when watching video from an external device. Choose one of the black levels.
Try Now
If that is true then having my RX-A710 hooked up to HDMI 1 should allow the HDMI black level to be adjusted. Again thanks for all of your constructive input.
post #1667 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljmart View Post

thanks smile.gif it surprised me when i first saw it but reassured by reading here. thank you AVS! and it doesn't happen often... def not a big deal and DEF worth the trade UP!!

+1
Same here, coming from years of LCDs it is a bit of a different look then my eyes were accustomed to but I adjusted to it after very little time..
Hate to bring up that poor beaten horse again but I need a little a little clarification about the" pops", are you guys talking of a bright "pop" of light or as Wizz called it '"pulsing/flicker''?? I've never seen the pops but I have seen "pulsing/flicker'' which I was able to eliminate via settings..
post #1668 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wizziwig View Post

Regarding the brightness pops... I've noticed that all the reports have come from people with the 64" set. Nobody with the 51" seems to be reporting them. Maybe the larger sizes are overloading the power supply and causing the sudden changes in ABL?
You know what Ken? I'm getting this weird sense of Déjà vu when reading your posts about the brightness pops. Just replace the term "brightness pops" with "pulsing/flicker". wink.gif

For anyone who doesn't know what I'm referring to, please check out the Sharp Elite thread back in early 2012. Many people who purchased that set (myself included) saw a brightness flicker or pulsing caused by the LED local dimming algorithms of that set. Similar to the current Samsung discussion, Ken and Robert (from VE) claimed it was invisible with calibrated settings or THX mode. But for those sensitive the issue, no amount of tinkering with settings or calibration ever resolved the issue.

I'm only bringing this up because I don't want to give people false hope that a professional calibration will fix it. I think some of us are just more sensitive to this sort of problem and it's best to move on to a different set. I was able to see these brightness pops on the older D series Samsung plasmas so I know how annoying they can be.

I will try to check out the new Samsung as soon as they show up at our local BB. But this kind of issue is often hard to spot in a store setting (I never saw the Elite pulsing problem until I got it home).

OK, first off with the Elite, I clearly said back then I could see the pulsing in some of the other modes. I clearly knew what the pulsing looked like and experienced it myself. However, switching to THX, it was gone. I showed it to Kevin Miller when he was here and he too did not see it in the THX mode on MY set but did see it in the Movie mode just like me. This was not simply a case of 'sensitivity' since I saw it, experienced it and knew precisely what it looked like. Kevin had precisely the same experience seeing mine. If you recall, I had always saved an episode of NCIS to demonstrate it. So because I didn't have it in THX mode didn't mean I wasn't sensitive to it. I didn't have it in THX mode, because it wasn't there in THX mode.

Second, where did I 'promise' a fix with calibration? I saw the popping and clearly reported what I saw. There was only one instance of it. What can I say? I can't apologize for seeing what was there or claim there were more instances than there were. Once we saw it, we knew what it looked like and proceeded from there. The posted YouTube video demonstrating popping was precisely what I saw at Robert's store and posted that. Again, I know exactly what this thing looks like. I said on the calibrated 64" 8500, the one case of popping we saw was totally eliminated in the Cal Day mode. That was true for that set and was very obvious. I also clearly stated that I had no idea what settings within Cal Day eliminated it. There are obviously no guarantees for anything with any of these displays.

So please, no revisionist history here. Revisionist history really ticks me off.
Edited by Ken Ross - 4/7/13 at 8:25pm
post #1669 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post

I'm assuming you're hooked up to your STB via HDMI. The following chart (which I suppose you've seen) shows what modes are possible with what connection type (sorry, the formatting didn't carry over in my cut & paste. But it certainly seems like some modes (except the Smart Modes since this is a plasma and NOT the zoom modes since this is not Component 480 i/p) should be available if that's how you're connected:

Thanks for that chart Ken, I must have accidentally skipped past it in my reading of the thread. Where did this chart come from (I didn't see it in the brief print manual and e-manual)? Based on that chart it appears the zoom1 and zoom2 options are NOT usable in most modes, correct? This would include normal HDMI. So I must ask, when people do basic break-ins using the "zoom" options, how do they accomplish this if the zoom1/zoom2 modes are not available in most modes (to avoid channel logos)? Just curious. Thanks.
post #1670 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post


The HDMI black level is only available if a component (STB, BD player etc.) is connected via an HDMI cable. This from the instruction manual again:

HDMI Black Level
This is available only for video input via an HDMI cable. Use this to reduce image retention that
may occur when watching video from an external device. Choose one of the black levels.
Try Now

Now you really have me wondering why my HDMI Black level is greyed out, I have/use only HDMI connected to my TV ( Comcast digital HD receiver and a Samsung blu-ray player)
post #1671 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinger View Post

+1
Same here, coming from years of LCDs it is a bit of a different look then my eyes were accustomed to but I adjusted to it after very little time..
Hate to bring up that poor beaten horse again but I need a little a little clarification about the" pops", are you guys talking of a bright "pop" of light or as Wizz called it '"pulsing/flicker''?? I've never seen the pops but I have seen "pulsing/flicker'' which I was able to eliminate via settings..

The pulsing/flicker was an issue with the Sharp Elite that some had and some didn't. There was a software fix that was released that reduced the issue for many. But this has nothing to do with what we're discussing here.

Sorry, it seems that there are issues brought up here that have absolutely nothing to do with the F8500. Sorry for any confusion.
post #1672 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinger View Post

Now you really have me wondering why my HDMI Black level is greyed out, I have/use only HDMI connected to my TV ( Comcast digital HD receiver and a Samsung blu-ray player)

Without getting too technical, it depends on what signal the source is sending to the TV. The TV expects a YCbCr signal and if it gets it, it will set the black level to Normal and gray out the black level selection. RGB has a data range of 0-255 while YCbCr is 16-235. If the TV receives an RGB signal, the TV will allow the choice of Normal or Low where Low would be the correct choice.

The Samsung explanation is ludicrous.

Larry
post #1673 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinger View Post

+1
Same here, coming from years of LCDs it is a bit of a different look then my eyes were accustomed to but I adjusted to it after very little time..
Hate to bring up that poor beaten horse again but I need a little a little clarification about the" pops", are you guys talking of a bright "pop" of light or as Wizz called it '"pulsing/flicker''?? I've never seen the pops but I have seen "pulsing/flicker'' which I was able to eliminate via settings..

i think they are referring to what you are saying... not a big 'pop' but a small allover fluctuation... which i assume some call pulsing or flickering. (unless they have a defective set and its something much more significant) i only saw it once but not on the f8500. at least thats the impression i'm getting from the posts! there is a hockey video a few? pages back but i actually couldn't see what they were trying to show. essentially its a slight brightness increase of the entire screen in certain scenes that can happen once or twice at a time. and i believe you are correct it is what you saw and fixed with the settings. at least thats my take on this!

edit... oops my mistake! i must be confused too! looks like ken already answered you!
Edited by ljmart - 4/7/13 at 8:46pm
post #1674 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Without getting too technical, it depends on what signal the source is sending to the TV. The TV expects a YCbCr signal and if it gets it, it will set the black level to Normal and gray out the black level selection. RGB has a data range of 0-255 while YCbCr is 16-235. If the TV receives an RGB signal, the TV will allow the choice of Normal or Low where Low would be the correct choice.

The Samsung explanation is ludicrous.

Larry

as is most of their stupid manual!!!! or maybe its just me?!
post #1675 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post

How small was your last set, what kind of technology was it ?

Alright Cleveland Plasma and AVS members, I have to admit, I'm still using my 35" Mitsubishi CS-35707 SD CRT (reduced curvature) from 1997. (A collective gasp emanates from the forum).

It cost $2000 then and was the pinnacle of SD tube-TV tech. It still looks pretty good, but I think it is dimming somewhat and, when I watch it after watching my LED computer monitor, the color appears to be shifting towards the red.

So, I'm thinking about upgrading but I have found my eyes to be sensitive to HDTV artifacts. While viewing HDTVs in stores or at people's houses, blu-rays often look good to spectacular, but cable or satellite HD content almost always looks blurry to me, to varying degrees.

Another issue - whenever I watch sports or a newscast on a plasma at a store, the ticker bar blurs somewhat when it starts to move. With LCDs, the ticker on a 60 Hz model is blurry, a 120 Hz model is better, and a 240 Hz model is perfect. I thought plasma wasn't supposed to have a problem with motion?

I also tend to notice trailing when, say, a player shoots the basketball. A brief, short "trail" seems to appear behind the ball.

I have an HD STB so that I can listen to HD channel audio through my AVR via HDMI, and run S-video to my TV. When watching an HD broadcast, the STB downconverts to 480i and the resulting SD 16:9 image is the same size as a 32" 16:9 HDTV. I never see any of these issues in the downconverted image on my TV. Granted, the store TVs I tend to look at are 64-65 inches and are therefore twice as high and twice as wide as the 16:9 image on my screen.

Also, when using the LCD projector at work, when I move my eyes quickly I see the "rainbow" effect.

Anyone else experience anything similar with cable/satellite content?

Also, regarding IR, which I know is a sensitive topic around here, is a plasma like the F8500 any more susceptible to IR than a CRT like mine? CRTs can suffer from IR but I have never had a problem with my set.
post #1676 of 11459
1st never judge based on a store feed not only are the Tvs not setup properly, but often they have split thier signals to much that the image is severely comprimised....use the store as a "base" but not as the final word....

Going from 32 to 64" is a HUGE change, you are really going to notice deficiencies that you never noticed before especially when the source is poor...Cable HD\SD being Chief amongst them as quality not only is determined by the source, but how your Cable Co is passing that signal.....If you get a larger TV you will notice how good or bad certain channels are like bever before..

as far as smoothness and jutter I believe there are settings to adjust the level, but some of the jutter in some content is "normal" for Plasma.....

We have a few reports of temporary IR on these sets, but most cases they were quickly removed with a few swipes of the "screen protection" tool thats available on the set....
Edited by Ph8te - 4/7/13 at 9:26pm
post #1677 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by captenblack View Post

Thanks for that chart Ken, I must have accidentally skipped past it in my reading of the thread. Where did this chart come from (I didn't see it in the brief print manual and e-manual)? Based on that chart it appears the zoom1 and zoom2 options are NOT usable in most modes, correct? This would include normal HDMI. So I must ask, when people do basic break-ins using the "zoom" options, how do they accomplish this if the zoom1/zoom2 modes are not available in most modes (to avoid channel logos)? Just curious. Thanks.

Page 154 of the e-manual is where Ken got the information from smile.gif

Try Wide Fit: for the "zoom" funtion with HDMI, its the closes youll probably get.....
post #1678 of 11459
I spent some time today with the 64F8500 in a Magnolia Home Theater department. It was mounted in the top position and I could stand 7-9' from it. That put the bottom of the screen at my eye level. I watched the women's semi final NCAA game during the last four minutes.

I didn't see any brightness pops, banding, and all the pans back and forth were smooth. The source was DirecTV but I have no idea how many ways the signal was split. I did learn from a DirecTV representative that they covert all source material to 1080p. Either their forced conversion or the distribution system at BB seems to cause the PQ to be less than what I get at home using Comcast native output and the Pioneer Kuro to do all the conversions needed.

The rep told me that Comcast was forcing 720p on all sources, but that's not the case at my house. Comcast is just as bad at providing good information that turns out to be false. rolleyes.gif

At this moment, if my set died and couldn't be repaired, the 64F85 would be one of three that I would look at carefully. biggrin.gif
post #1679 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post

Page 154 of the e-manual is where Ken got the information from smile.gif

Try Wide Fit: for the "zoom" funtion with HDMI, its the closes youll probably get.....

Thanks for the info Ph8te, finally grabbed the PDF of the e-manual. I've been using the wide fit then shifting the picture position a bit to hide the logo.
post #1680 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post

Search my posts, I have said a few time that this Samsung is an excellent, solid set. If you read this board enough you would think that ever unit of every type of product is defective. You have to read thru it. Then, then at that point you have discovered the AVS way......... biggrin.gif

-- I am also sorry to hear you are spending $3500 on the PN64F8500 too.

Question on your last comment about spending 3500$ on this set. The place I bought mine (60 inch) told me they could not budge on the price because Samsung won't let them. Is this true or are you guys getting better deals from authorized retailers? Are they knocking anything off or did I get played?
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AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk]