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Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 66

post #1951 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMUdukes07 View Post

I guess I will have to see it for myself. I still haven't seen anyone describe anything that seems as annoying as what I have on my D7000. I wish someone with the display could play the Jaws Blu-Ray as I could have them run a very easy test to see if the pops are the same as I experienced on the D7000. I am hopeful based on the post a few pages back that I will be as happy with the exchange as the other owner who seemed thrilled with this set compared to his D series he exchanged.

I have a 64" F8500 and the Jaws Blu-Ray. smile.gif

What can I do to run the test?
post #1952 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thelt2000x View Post

Maybe the TV size?? I have a 64 inch. I anyone with a 51 inch seeing pops? 60 inch??
I have a 51" 8500. I have seen the brightness pops/increments on this tv from time to time. It doesn't bother me though. What bothered me more while watching hockey were the camera strobes/flashes. I would petition/boycott camera flashes in hockey arenas before pointing a gun at Samsung to fix this anomoly.....lol! All of you forumites with brand new tvs, try watching your tv with your glass half full instead of half empty. Quit trying to find problems. You know what happens when you go looking for trouble.....trouble finds you!
Edited by DanF8500 - 4/10/13 at 8:13am
post #1953 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by endlessender View Post

I have a 64" F8500 and the Jaws Blu-Ray. smile.gif

What can I do to run the test?

Wow, awesome!

All you need to do is play one of the first chapters - I believe it is titled "Chrissie's Last Swim" or something like that. On all of my D7000 panels/logic boards/main board combinations that Samsung has tried to fix that scene causes a lot of brightness pops that go so far to bleed into the black bars and make them flash and/or the black level rise between black and grey. It is one of the easiest scenes I've found to demonstrate this issue on the D7000. The scene at night while they are on board the Orca drinking was also very problematic but I found it easier to point out this issue with the first scene.
post #1954 of 11451
Brave brave soul wink.gifbiggrin.gif
post #1955 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

The cell light at 16 seems to be causing an issue for most people if not all people.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thelt2000x View Post

Thanks. Trust me I could notice the difference between the flashed and fluctuations. It would be in two increments every time. The screen as a whole would get brighter brighter then dimmer and dimmer. I am going to try some of the settings that have been posted to see if that helps. But like I said this set is going back anyway because of the scratch on the screen.

Thelt, perhaps, when you get a chance (and I realize you are replacing your current set) could you post what the rest of your settings are? I watched part of the Blackhawks game last night (it is a constitutional obligation in Canada to watch at least 10 minutes of hockey every night;), and I could clearly see the arena strobes/flashes whenever the players were around the net (i.e. potentially scoring), but the two-step fluctuations weren't there.

I don't have my settings with me, but I can write them down tonight and post tomorrow if that helps.

SJA
post #1956 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMUdukes07 View Post

Wow, awesome!

All you need to do is play one of the first chapters - I believe it is titled "Chrissie's Last Swim" or something like that. On all of my D7000 panels/logic boards/main board combinations that Samsung has tried to fix that scene causes a lot of brightness pops that go so far to bleed into the black bars and make them flash and/or the black level rise between black and grey. It is one of the easiest scenes I've found to demonstrate this issue on the D7000. The scene at night while they are on board the Orca drinking was also very problematic but I found it easier to point out this issue with the first scene.

OK I watched Chapter 2 "Chrissie's Last Swim". Looking very closely, I didn't see any brightness pops. The only thing I saw was an almost imperceptible flicker that lasted maybe a second (is repeatable) at 4min34sec. I'll experiment to see if it goes away with settings changes, is part of the source, or what. But it's super subtle and quick. No other brightness variants that I can see whatsoever. Where specifically in the scene were you seeing porblems? During the shark attack or the brighter ending scenes?

I'll say one thing - Jaws looks freakin' amazing! (hadn't watched it on this set yet - thanks for the reason!) The expanses of water in its steely gray and the sun remnants, the fire light, the clear daylight post attack. Holy gods it all looks great - like you wanna eat it.smile.gif
Edited by endlessender - 4/10/13 at 8:45am
post #1957 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by SJA05 View Post


Thelt, perhaps, when you get a chance (and I realize you are replacing your current set) could you post what the rest of your settings are? I watched part of the Blackhawks game last night (it is a constitutional obligation in Canada to watch at least 10 minutes of hockey every night;), and I could clearly see the arena strobes/flashes whenever the players were around the net (i.e. potentially scoring), but the two-step fluctuations weren't there.

I don't have my settings with me, but I can write them down tonight and post tomorrow if that helps.

SJA

Hmm.... Interesting. That was the game I was watching last night. And fluctuations all over the place. If you could, post your settings or PM me them. I would love to try them. I am not really a settings guy lol. Just choose a mode and run with it. BTW what size tv do you have?

Edit: Just received the call. New tv is on the way. But I would still like to try to fix this issue.

Another edit: Also, anyone know why my zoom 1 and 2 are grayed out on all tv modes?
post #1958 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by endlessender View Post

OK I watched Chapter 2 "Chrissie's Last Swim". Looking very closely, I didn't see any brightness pops. The only thing I saw was an almost imperceptible flicker that lasted maybe a second (is repeatable) at 4min35sec. I'll experiment to see if it goes away with settings changes, is part of the source, or what. But it's super subtle and quick. No other brightness variants that I can see whatsoever. Where specifically in the scene were you seeing porblems? During the shark attack or the brighter ending scenes?

I'll say one thing - Jaws looks freakin' amazing! (hadn't watched it on this set yet - thanks for the reason!) The expanses of water in its steely gray and the sun remnants, the fire light, the clear daylight post attack. Holy gods it all looks great - like you wanna eat it.smile.gif

The pops occur throughout the scene especially at the beginning so I would definitely say that this is a good sign. Also, the letterbox bars turn very grey for several seconds several times once Chrissie runs down the beach and starts swimming in the water. It's sounding like this doesn't occur on this set which is great news (are you watching in a dark room?). You would definitely notice them in a dark room as even my wife noticed and she thinks I'm crazy with some of this stuff.

EDIT: Also the pops are worse/easier to see when watching in "Screen Fit" mode.
post #1959 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thelt2000x View Post

Hmm.... Interesting. That was the game I was watching last night. And fluctuations all over the place. If you could, post your settings or PM me them. I would love to try them. I am not really a settings guy lol. Just choose a mode and run with it. BTW what size tv do you have?

Edit: Just received the call. New tv is on the way. But I would still like to try to fix this issue.

Another edit: Also, anyone know why my zoom 1 and 2 are grayed out on all tv modes?

Zoom1 and Zoom2 are not available when connected via HDMI, use "Wide Zoom"...its in the manual, but I forget which page.......


Thelt, Btw have you tried Kevins settings and adjusted from there? you can find them in his review on tweaktv......
post #1960 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thelt2000x View Post

Hmm.... Interesting. That was the game I was watching last night. And fluctuations all over the place. If you could, post your settings or PM me them. I would love to try them. I am not really a settings guy lol. Just choose a mode and run with it. BTW what size tv do you have?

Edit: Just received the call. New tv is on the way. But I would still like to try to fix this issue.

Another edit: Also, anyone know why my zoom 1 and 2 are grayed out on all tv modes?

Congratulations on the imminent arrival of the new set! I will post my settings tomorrow. You could also try Kevin M's settings as has already been suggested.
post #1961 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by endlessender View Post


Oddly enough, Frozen Planet, which exhibits a lot of the same kind of scenery and contrast (expanses of white with dark objects present) doesn't exhibit brightness pops at all....none whatsoever.

And this is what's so odd. As I've said on several occasions, looking at a multitude of hockey highlights, showing the same combination of dark crowd & bright ice, we could find only one game that showed the popping. Why? I have no idea.

Watching the Life of Pi on the exact same display, no issues at all, just a gorgeous rendering of the movie. Yet here is this Grade B flick, which is obviously a pretty bad transfer, and the 8500 obviously doesn't like it. The expanses of sky that triggered it in this bad transfer seemed no brighter and perhaps less bright than expanse of snow & ice that showed nothing as with the downhill skiing Blu Ray. Why? I have no idea.
post #1962 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMUdukes07 View Post

I guess I should forget what I just said then.

Ugh, if I go through all of this pain AND pay the $600 extra to upgrade to this model and it still has the same brightness pops I am going to be livid.

Don't despair JMUdukes07. It is possible that a calibration can eliminate this. Robert mentioned that at some point they'd try to diagnose why the Cal Day totally eliminated popping. There must be some setting, combination of settings or something 'behind the scenes' that Samsung is doing with Cal Day that is a clue.

But it doesn't guarantee that every set calibrated to Cal Day will eliminate all popping. Until we see the results from people that have actually had professional calibrations, we won't know for sure. I do think that movie I saw was unusual. I've seen a number of 8500s and never saw anything this bad. But I'd be lying if I told you it didn't make me nervous.
post #1963 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post

And this is what's so odd. As I've said on several occasions, looking at a multitude of hockey highlights, showing the same combination of dark crowd & bright ice, we could find only one game that showed the popping. Why? I have no idea.

Watching the Life of Pi on the exact same display, no issues at all, just a gorgeous rendering of the movie. Yet here is this Grade B flick, which is obviously a pretty bad transfer, and the 8500 obviously doesn't like it. The expanses of sky that triggered it in this bad transfer seemed no brighter and perhaps less bright than expanse of snow & ice that showed nothing as with the downhill skiing Blu Ray. Why? I have no idea.

I think they switched sets out or fudged with it wink.gif they want you to spend that extra money on the ZT biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

J/k of course....

personally with what I say at Magnolia (light fluctuations, distortion making it look like HEAVY IR, ect, ect) where all related to the source....I know this probably isnt the situation, but I wonder what changed besides the content.....

Do you remember the movie?
post #1964 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post

Don't despair JMUdukes07. It is possible that a calibration can eliminate this. Robert mentioned that at some point they'd try to diagnose why the Cal Day totally eliminated popping. There must be some setting, combination of settings or something 'behind the scenes' that Samsung is doing with Cal Day that is a clue.

But it doesn't guarantee that every set calibrated to Cal Day will eliminate all popping. Until we see the results from people that have actually had professional calibrations, we won't know for sure. I do think that movie I saw was unusual. I've seen a number of 8500s and never saw anything this bad. But I'd be lying if I told you it didn't make me nervous.

The test done by endlessender at least has me somewhat confident that the popping issue on this set (if there is one) isn't nearly as bad as the one on my D7000.
post #1965 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMUdukes07 View Post

The pops occur throughout the scene especially at the beginning so I would definitely say that this is a good sign. Also, the letterbox bars turn very grey for several seconds several times once Chrissie runs down the beach and starts swimming in the water. It's sounding like this doesn't occur on this set which is great news (are you watching in a dark room?). You would definitely notice them in a dark room as even my wife noticed and she thinks I'm crazy with some of this stuff.

EDIT: Also the pops are worse/easier to see when watching in "Screen Fit" mode.

I'm in a room with curtains drawn and no lights. Just some ambient morning natural light (I'm west facing) filtered through the curtains. I'll try in darkness tonight, but I don't see any problems thus far. Aside form the little flicker right when she lands at the buoy first time (4:34:) I don't' see any anomalies at all. The flicker may be in the source. I'll have to compare elsewhere. It's extremely subtle.

Oh I'm also in Screen-Fit mode.
post #1966 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMUdukes07 View Post

You would definitely notice them in a dark room as even my wife noticed and she thinks I'm crazy with some of this stuff.

Mine thinks I'm nuts/obsessive too and I use her as a kind of barometer for what a "normal" person would find objectionable. cool.gif
post #1967 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by endlessender View Post

Mine thinks I'm nuts/obsessive too and I use her as a kind of barometer for what a "normal" person would find objectionable. cool.gif

The true sign of someone who has been at AVS "too long" wink.gif
post #1968 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by endlessender View Post

I'm in a room with curtains drawn and no lights. Just some ambient morning natural light (I'm west facing) filtered through the curtains. I'll try in darkness tonight, but I don't see any problems thus far. Aside form the little flicker right when she lands at the buoy first time (4:34:) I don't' see any anomalies at all. The flicker may be in the source. I'll have to compare elsewhere. It's extremely subtle.

Oh I'm also in Screen-Fit mode.

This has me curious. I also have the Jaws blu ray and I'll try this when I get home this evening. I have the 60F8500 and I'll look for this flicker at the time noted. If noticed, I'll then check it on the 111FD downstairs and see if I can see it there. The only movie I've watched on the F8500 all the way through is I, Robot with no issues. Looked amazing.
post #1969 of 11451
Has anyone come up with a recommended st of fine-tune settings for this set? I've seen some recommendations throughout this (very long) thread but I was just looking for a good overall set of settings for general OTA HD viewing. NYC Fios is my source. If it's relevant my room is generally of average brightness and my unit is a 51" 8500.
post #1970 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by AuralSex View Post

Has anyone come up with a recommended st of fine-tune settings for this set? I've seen some recommendations throughout this (very long) thread but I was just looking for a good overall set of settings for general OTA HD viewing. NYC Fios is my source. If it's relevant my room is generally of average brightness and my unit is a 51" 8500.

I think some are going off of Kevin Millers settings and taking it from there....Pretty soon I think one of the owners should start a Settings Thread so its easier to discuss\post\find that information....the way this thread moves, everything gets pushed back quickly.......
post #1971 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post

The true sign of someone who has been at AVS "too long" wink.gif

Indeed. cool.gif
post #1972 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watcher12 View Post

3D
We tested Prometheus, Hugo, and Tintin (all shot natively in 3D) and also looked at its 2D --> 3D conversion with Lord of the Rings: Return of the King and Star Wars Episode VI Revenge of the Sith. Much to both of our surprise the F8500's 3D performance was superior to the E7500 LCD, which we both thought had very good 3D performance in its own right.

Thanks so much for sharing this! It is exactly the information I was looking for. There is one more thing I'd like to know, and that is what size screen ES7500 are you comparing F8500 to? Some folks have mentioned that the 3D performance on the ES7500 & ES8000 LED's varies by screen size.
post #1973 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by endlessender View Post

I'm in a room with curtains drawn and no lights. Just some ambient morning natural light (I'm west facing) filtered through the curtains. I'll try in darkness tonight, but I don't see any problems thus far. Aside form the little flicker right when she lands at the buoy first time (4:34:) I don't' see any anomalies at all. The flicker may be in the source. I'll have to compare elsewhere. It's extremely subtle.

Oh I'm also in Screen-Fit mode.

Thanks man - I really appreciate this. Admittedly, it's harder to see when it's daylight and my curtains are drawn at home so let me know what happens when you try after dark.

I'm a lot more optimistic after your initial impressions though.
post #1974 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oplasmic View Post

This has me curious. I also have the Jaws blu ray and I'll try this when I get home this evening. I have the 60F8500 and I'll look for this flicker at the time noted. If noticed, I'll then check it on the 111FD downstairs and see if I can see it there. The only movie I've watched on the F8500 all the way through is I, Robot with no issues. Looked amazing.

Great - looking forward to what you find. Start at about 4:30-4:32 and see if you see maybe a light triple flicker from 4:34-4:35(6?). The rest of Jaws has looked stunning wiih no flaws that I can find.

I've switched from Warm 2 to Warm 1 and think I may like it better.
Current Settings:

Picture Mode: Movie
Cell Light: 18 (but it's been all over the map since purchase (15 is as low as i like with 18-20 being best for 3D viewing)
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 47
Sharpness: 10
Color: 50
Tint: G50/R50
Picture Size: Screen Fit
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Black Tone: Off
Flesh Tone: 0
Color Space: Auto
10p: off
Gamma: -1
Color Tone: Warm 1 (previously using Warm 2)
Digital Clean View: Auto
MPEG Noise Filter: Auto
Motion Judder Canceler: Standard (but varies based on content)
Black Optimizer: Dark Room

If I end up keeping the TV (looks farily likely) will get professional calibration after 200 hours or so.
post #1975 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMUdukes07 View Post

Thanks man - I really appreciate this. Admittedly, it's harder to see when it's daylight and my curtains are drawn at home so let me know what happens when you try after dark.

I'm a lot more optimistic after your initial impressions though.

Will do!
post #1976 of 11451
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMUdukes07 View Post

I guess I should forget what I just said then.

Ugh, if I go through all of this pain AND pay the $600 extra to upgrade to this model and it still has the same brightness pops I am going to be livid.
One will always have unit variation. No TV's are the same. Hard to say what you would end up with. Not to mention outside of AVS not many people complain about issues. If you read enough you would think every set produced has these issues. However that just is not true or 98% of the people who owe these sets are not seeing the issues so they have no reason to complain. 98% is to high of a % for people to actually have issues and not complain.
Edited by Cleveland Plasma - 4/10/13 at 9:45am
post #1977 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post

Zoom1 and Zoom2 are not available when connected via HDMI, use "Wide Zoom"...its in the manual, but I forget which page.......


Thelt, Btw have you tried Kevins settings and adjusted from there? you can find them in his review on tweaktv......

I have not plugged his settings in. Will when I get home. Thanks for the zoom info.
post #1978 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post

I think some are going off of Kevin Millers settings and taking it from there....Pretty soon I think one of the owners should start a Settings Thread so its easier to discuss\post\find that information....the way this thread moves, everything gets pushed back quickly.......

Thanks, I just started a dedicated "settings" thread which, I hope, will help separate out this issue from all the other things discussed here in this general thread.
post #1979 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post

One will always have unit variation. No TV's are the same. Hard to say what you would end up with. Not to mention outside of AVS not many people complain about issues. If you read enough you would think every set produced has these issues. However that just is not true or 98% of the people who owe these sets are not seeing the issues so they have no reason to complain. 98% is to high of a % for people to actually have issues and not complain.

I'd have to think the D series is the exception to this rule. I'm pretty optimistic about the 8500 so I'm looking forward to hopefully having it in the next week or so.
post #1980 of 11451
Quote:
Originally Posted by AuralSex View Post

Thanks, I just started a dedicated "settings" thread which, I hope, will help separate out this issue from all the other things discussed here in this general thread.

may be a good idea to put a link to it in your signature wink.gif hopefully more people start posting thier setting there, it will make things MUCH easier to find......
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMUdukes07 View Post

I'd have to think the D series is the exception to this rule. I'm pretty optimistic about the 8500 so I'm looking forward to hopefully having it in the next week or so.

Yes that would be an exception wink.gif Right nwo with the varied reports we have, this doesnt seem to be as bad as the D series which was a "product wide" issue.....Of course once a problem is found it will haunt the company forver lol wink.gif
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